FinS 32

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About FinS 32

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    1,000 Post Club!


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Rod building, surf and, flyfishing.
  • What I do for a living:
    Craft Beer brewer, writer

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  1. The top looks like possibly a Higgins. I'm pretty sure the bottom is a pflueger progress 1774
  2. The seigler was probablly my most used reel all year. Few thoughts after over 100+ days of hard use from the boat and surf this year. As far as reliability, it was up there with charlton and mako, and as far as power it was in a class of own. Handled everything from stripers to an 8foot rough tail ray with ease for me this year. Drag was smooth and strong. Regarding it being unsealed, I never had a problem with it being unsealed. Even underwater, the drag didnt really struggle at all and never was there an issue with sandintrusion. .In fact with sealed reels I've had more leaking issues than anything. The fact is that unless they are sealed like a charlton. eventually they'll leak. I prefer a reel that flushes itself then having a reel sit with a drag cover filled with saltwater. Regarding the line getting stuck under the frame or anything. In a fishing situation, I've never actually had it happen and I fish some really thin running lines. When it comes to palming I just dont ever understand the need. The drag is enough to handle and fish you might come across with a fly and certainly enough to put the brakes on most you would target with that size reel. Palming is just asking to break off in my opinion. The only issue I have with the reel is the handle can get a little cold in the winter months, but a glove or tape fixes that. Otherwise I find it comfortable. With the clicker, I honestly wish all reels were silent. It's just preference but I seem to remember wes posting a clicker add on, on social media once. Not sure if its available but if someone's interested I would recommend calling the shop. Truthfully, it is one of the finest reels I've ever used. Friends have used them on GT, tarpon, tuna and everything else imaginable and most have shared a similar feeling.
  3. Would be interested in some pics, if you can. Thanks
  4. Tying kinky fiber in the johnny king v-style has really become a favorite technique of mine. Blending fibers can give you a really unique color blend without using markers or copic and give the fly a ton of body. It can be very time consuming but it's a lot of fun. Here's just a few I've been working on. All v tied kinky fiber. The top is a pair of double articulated squids. About 9" long with an ahrex pr320 6/0 between 2 35mm shanks The next is my take on the surfcasters rigged eel done in "gamechanger: style. About 14" long, with 2 partridge upx 6/0s and a bunch of shanks. Finally, The bottom is my take on a mackerel done as a gamechanger and 12" . Both this and the eel, are different than the way chocklett ties his gamechanger but the concept is still the same. This one takes the longest; about 4 hours. Tied on a gamakatsu SL12S 8/0 and shanks reducing in size towards the tail. The tails just a brush I made with kinky fiber and clipped and glued into shape. The macketsl stripes dont show well in the picture. But they were done with a stencil and copic air brush.
  5. Here in the states we have companies like seigler, zeebaas/3tand, irt, avet and so on. Basically smaller reel companies manufacturing independently of the large tackle conglomerates and super companies. Maybe it's just because they are domestic, but they seem like the only "small" manufacturer's I see in stores, aside from a bunch of small company foreign fly reels. Seems like the large portion of foreign reels in this country are either shimano, daiwa, okuma, or rebranded Chinese made reels, with few exceptions like alutecnos and Everol Ive always been intetested in that sort of small scale designing and manufacturing, and would love to know more about foreign gear. My question is, are there many small reel makers (not counting fly reels) over seas? Has anyone used them or have any experience with them?
  6. When I first got mine, they were a hair off. Everything worked fine though, so I never cared. Eventually they just worked themselves straight.
  7. Very well said Brian. Couldn't have put it better myself. .... On a somewhat related point, I've never really understood why people bothered comparing a zeebaas (or van staal, and I suppose a torque) to really any other reel on the market. In my opinion they are really in their own, albeit small, class of reels. They weren't designed to be high performance tuned pieces of fishing engineering. They're designed to be extremely durable, but simple, reels designed for surfcasters in the northeast US. So yes, there are "better" reels on the market, like stellas and saltiga. they are the better reels in the same way a Porsche is a better car than a jeep. Might look better on paper, until you need to climb through some rocks or whatever... for the people who use them (vs and zb) for what they were intended for, there's nothing better, and really no equivalent. I've used zeebaas and van staal for years. Swam with them, slammed them into rocks, reeled underwater, and had them thrown into sand. They keep on going, and I wouldn't trade them for any "better reels" in the world.
  8. Ande backcountry it ande pink 20lb used to be my go to. Jinkai is njce too thoigh. I believe it's a little thinner, But ive only used it on boats.
  9. Whatever thread comes in the speedy stich works pretty well. I've made some accessories with it and the thread held up well. The speedy stich is a great tool also if you dont have a machine that can get through the material, and much easier than a standard needle.
  10. My first thought was absolutely not, but then I started to think about it. Assuming we are talking bucktails jig, it would probablly have to be a swing hook, as to the best of my knowledge, there are no molds. That would accommodate the hook. .... circle hooks basically set themselves. With bait, the fish takes the bait, runs, you reel, and its hooked. If you're jigging slow, or almost drifting, i don't see how the same thing couldn't apply . Any sort of fast retrieve or jigging I don't think would work though, as the hook would be pulled out before it set. I've seen them work on flies and vertical jigs, and now I kind of want to try it out with a bucktail.
  11. Looks good. I just put some of that Winn grip on my graphene s2, and its on the foregrip or another rod, and on a fly rod. It feels amazing even with wet. Instead of the tape they provide though, i used shrink tube for the ends. I just felt it was more secure. Only conplaint is I wouldn't use it for a rod that I wetsuit with. It does tear a little on barnacles and such, more so than tougher types of shrink tube or cork tape. but other than that I've been a fan so. far.
  12. Enjoy them.... I'm sure you will
  13. As tim said , you really only need structure and the right temps. to find them. Just to give a couple examples. I was fishing a new jersey tidal river a couple years ago that has a rock erosion barrier on one of the banks. That has about 10" Of water up against it at high tide. As im fishing I see a couple of blackish swimming in and out of that rock structure. Never seen them that shallow before.. I also see them on the shallow reefs of the Montauk south side from time to time. Which is exciting because aside from being good eating for people, large bass also enjoy eating them.
  14. The history of camp hero is pretty cool. Once you learn the real history, I suggest reading the Montauk Project by Preston Nichols. It provides an "alternate" view of the history. At the very least you'll never look at the radar tower the same way again.
  15. Titanium is not hugh grade aluminum. Titanium and aluminum are separate elements .Titanium (22 Ti), and aluminum (13 Al), are both there own thing. Now you can have titanium alloy that can blend the two such as Ti-6Al-4V (or tc4, which is used in the aerospace field). Thats not what these pliers are though. As far as i know they are 100 % Ti.... regarding the cutters. They aren't aluminum, they're tungsten (74 W). Tungsten cuts quite well, although these specific pliers are designed to cut line and soft, Thin metal, but steel hooks. If I had to cut something like that. I would use steel. ... Also you can cut with aluminum, if you get it sharp enough. The issue would be cutting anything harder than aluminum with it. But that's not really relevant here because the cutters aren't aluminum.