fishdoc

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About fishdoc

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    fishing, hunting, lure/plug making
  • What I do for a living:
    Retired
  1. This is a tough one to believe....A good friend and fishing pal. We'll all miss him.
  2. This is a bit of a late response, but I've been off line for quite a while. I have a mini lathe collecting dust in my cave...If you have the room go with a full size Grizzly. They are not outrageously priced and you'll have no over heating problems not to mention some real fast shaping. AND you can turn all sorts of stuff...I only read that...I never have!
  3. Keale, I’m one that thins the etex a bit especially if I double coat. If you're working in a warm room and the plug bodies are quickly microwaved before applying the etex goes on quite easily. That being said I still like to thin the etex. I thin with acetone in an amount to match the amount of etex I'm mixing. I use a laboratory grade pipette (eye dropper) so it's an accurate measure every time. Example I'll put 30 drops into 4 drams of mixture (2g hardener 2g resin) Obviously if I'm only mixing 2 total drams I'll only use 15 drops. As far as performance I get hook swing and bluefish teeth defeating epoxy no matter if it's thinned or not. Two coats vs. one coat come up with pretty much the same result. That being said I have been experimenting with something called Cleaercast 7050. This is the stuff that you find engulfing bugs etc. in trinket stores. It's a very hard 2 part mixture mixed 2 to 1. It's more difficult to use but it forms a rock hard finish that is very difficult to defeat. The rock hard finish can be a bit of a problem rather than a help. I haven't fished these plugs much so hook swing has not been a problem and I've yet to run into blues with them. But they had visited some rocks on purpose. The finish will crack! I've been experimenting with it a bit by thinning it also with acetone. It has softened the finish a bit but I have not given it any serious testing. But I have spoken with the company's chemist and when I told him about the cracking on impact he said that they had a new product that resulted in a softer finish. I can do that with acetone! A positive about this stuff is that it makes the colors POP. Stripercrazy saw a finished one and noticed that right away. Is this important to the fish? I doubt it! I think the only other drawback is that it seems to add weight to the plug. Not sure how action will be impacted, it's still in testing phases. However I'll still be using etex that I put on AFTER wiring etc. I think it seals the arse end and nose a bit but so what the belly hole is letting in plenty of water unless you're using hangers for the belly hook and sealing the hole. BUT I don't care what anyone says you are not going to TOTALLY seal a wooden plug. Hook swing, blue bites, rocks, banging around in bags and trucks will eventually defeat the sealers. I still use Val oil and dip prime in oil based primer/sealers. It slows water absorption. However I waterlogged a plug last season. I fished it so often and so long each outing that I noticed some action changes. When I hefted it I was surprised to see it had gotten noticeably heavier. Every time I walked down the beach Ratty would say "Here comes Doc with that little white plug." Most of the time he was correct...I wonder why??? Oh I also use both acid brushes and foam brushes. A good way to cut back o the brush hairs is to crimp them a bit more like has already been mentioned but to help a bit more after pulling out any loose hairs put a drop of super glue at the base of the bristles.
  4. Rollin... Just took another look at the original plug lip. Looks like a Pikie. Can't say that I've ever bent a pikie down, but I have bent the edges up. Any great action change??? Not really...just looked cooler.
  5. Rollincoal, Just a note on these 2. Note that the original has an off center through drilling. I don't know what kind (type) of lip on the original. If Danny style by bending it down it appears that you turned it into a Lefty. A way to "adjust" a metal lip swimmer is to SLIGHTLY bend the line tie up or down. Up = deeper Down = shallower. Too much bending and bending back will eventually fatigue the wire. Easy way to get the "swim" that you want is to use different lip designs i.e. Danny, Lefty, Pikey and do some testing by bending if you like. There is even one design where the edges of the lips are bent up. Once you get the shape that you like make the bends prior to inserting into the plug. I purchased some unbent lips and did my own bending. Still trying to figure out WHY ...because I almost always end up with the bends in the same place as the originals. I'll assume that the original lip benders knew what the hell they were doing and my attempts are just a "reinvention of the wheel" I am curious as to how the square faced, center drilled, bottom lipped swimmer works. It looks like it will be pushing lots of water and be relegated to strictly top water action. Nothing wrong with that! You definitely have me thinking. I still have some unbent lips to use if your design works. Post some swimming pics if you can, would like to see it in action.
  6. Should have stopped by Fishdoc booth...Chuck (Linsider 69) was there for a good part of the day Sunday! Again, THANK YOU to all that stopped by. Had a good time teaching teaser tying tricks and Timah fast snap making. Three days of BSing is great, but I've got to admit I'm one tired puppy...na...old dog, after that. Big Thanks to Stripercrazy, AKA THE FISH PIMP, Digger Durand, TWW Wanni, my cousin Preston (Pret) and Ray the Polack for set up take down and manning the booth with me.
  7. I thought I had just about had enough of this thread...However I went back to about page 10 and laughed my ass off AGAIN! I'm not sayin' keep it up...but it is friggin' funny! See y'all at the RISAA show 28 -30 March!
  8. [quoteA duplicator is the easy way to get the different sides even. To say the duplicator limits the variety of the plugs is incorrect. With one template the variety is endless. Change the number of centers. Change the amount of wood removed (thin vs fat plug). Don't let the duplicator limit your imagination! Its another tool to get you what you want. To free hand a multi center plug is difficult at best. You have to see the shape as it is spinning on the lathe and duplicate both sides to make it even. I tried it a few and like you said it scared me to see the wood flopping around and the machine jumping around. I bolted the lathe to something heavy and used the duplicator and I had no problems. Larry, I still have the off center turners you dropped off. NO, have not finished them...WHY? I don't want to screw them up. If I should ever get up the nads to try that crazy lathe shaking stuff I want to have a damn good example. I don't think that my big Grizzly will shake too much, but I'm certain I'll be spooked by the way that piece of stock turns. I get antsy now when a piece of wood splits when I'm center turning or how about when I'm trying to really thin out the nose of a spook and it breaks away and shoots the blank into the air? Ya, all good reasons to wear a shield...I keep telling myself to put it on! One of these days I just might, it's an arms length away!!!
  9. Olin...that's really neat. I got some burl wood from JR (aka J) once that made some real different looking stuff. What is that wood?
  10. NSF...Ya, you sure do over do it with the wood. Bet I could get another plug out of your cutoffs. Question(s) in the top pic is the top plug mahogany? What is the "greenish" wood, second down? In the third pic 5th one down? That being said (asked) using multiple types of wood is an excellent idea if you're in an R&D stage, i.e. trying to figure which typed of wood will give you the best action or even lack of action that you are looking for. Once you get what you think is best then save yourself some time (and wood) and stick with the wood that works best. That doesn't mean you're done! Now the tweaking starts. Unless it's absolutely perfect for what you want it to do the first time you might want to mess with 1. weight adjustments, amount and placement, 2. hook type, size and placement, 3. eye screws or through wire. 5. Dead center for eye screws and through wire or off center placement of nose and tail loops. Weighting is probably the most interesting. Everything you do to that plug either adds or subtracts (drillings) weight (sealers, paint, epoxy, hooks, split rings, swivels, grommets, wire, eye screws etc.) Castability (that's my word) as well as action can be dramatically effected if all things aren't considered. Some times a bit of castability has to be dealt with...example there just aren't too many 2 piece plugs that cast super well. It can be improved, but in these plugs action is the primary concern IMO. Have fun...that's what this is all about! Doc
  11. Hey Ed...I can't be too smart I thought that plug you put up was just happy to see his girl friend
  12. I did a few poppers with some wood that was called "mahogany" but it was way lighter than I expected. I use AWC (your EWC ) for most stuff that I want to float high on the surface but still handle enough weight to help in distance throwing. I have some WRC (western red) that is as light as balsam. I doesn't take much to spin this stuff, but it's like a sponge when I put it into the val oil/MS soak and takes forever to dry out enough for paint. Except for needles (I try to use mostly maple) I've been turning lot's of AYC. I've found that the drier (actually the wider the growth rings) the AYC the better for surface stuff, the tighter the rings the better for Dannys, Pikies (who am I kidding I don't build pikies...I ho 'em from Jigman! ), Juniors and any other metal lip plugs that I build. This "discovery" was made strictly by chance. I got some AYC from my saw mill friend and a couple of pieces just seemed to be way to heavy to be AYC. He explained the growth ring thing to me so I paid attention to which plug I was building. So from then on I started paying attention to growth rings in most cedar wood. As far as maple...it's just hard and way more dense than cedar...so far I only have used red maple from the mill and some kind of maple in broom stick/rake handles that a friend brought to me. Get this...a friend asks if I can use rake handles. I tell him how sore my back was raking my own lawn from all of the "short" rakes I have due to making bluefish poppers. He brings a bundle of 10 maple handles each about 5 feet long...INSTANT love affair...my stubby and match-the-hatch needle supply just sky rocketed. What makes them seem to be even better is that they are extruded. I've already used 3 more bundles of these handles....My main question was "Who the hell collects rake/broom handles?" Needless to say this guy never has to buy another needle.
  13. UMMMM rancid, frozen eels...the best kind... Hey Shady...What's up? How's things on the island? I hear it was a good bass year out there last season.