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  1. Lightweight, cheap and sealed are a bit mutually exclusive. Wade fishing down here will kill most lightweight Shimano and Diawa reel if you dunk and don't at least rinse off. A Stradic has some sealing but it's not for dunking. I wade fish down here but I rarely dunk the reel and they get properly cleaned and inspected so no issue with my 2500-3000 size Diawa. For the rod, you don't need anything more than a 7ft medium action rod. I would just pair it with an inshore Spheros in the 2500-3000 size. It has the sealing of the previous Stradic FK.
  2. I fish the area where S%$***g burns spot. He's bad but actually the Youtubers and Facebook influencers spot burns way more than he does. Great for beginners moving into the area(and there is a s***load of them) and even better for new but experienced anglers moving in to this area. Of course that comes at the expense of the veteran anglers here who got up at the cracked of dawn at 40 degrees to fish a mud hole and then see it gets blown up on Youtube. The true veteran angler knows that is not the spot but the technique, the time of year, the tides, and the currents, but he/she is still going to be pissed when a spot gets blown up on Youtube and shows up and find a bunch of boat anchoring where the fish are, running over the fish, etc. This apply to land based fishing and crossed lines, inability to read currents, etc. I'm guilty of teaching and guiding newbies or struggling local anglers who just need a little nudge in the right direction and I don't regret it since I've made lifelong friends that way. When I moved here in 2001, I knew that there is no way that I'll ever be able to fish every fishing looking spot. Every morning when I could fish, it was what and where should I fish. It was easy to be successful since I already learned how to fish living in San Diego where I was already familiar with tides, moon, and currents and how fish relates to them. In San Diego, I was restricted to lakes and limited bay and beach fishing where as Tampa/St Pete is almost limitless. Hell the bass and bluegills in the backyard retention pond makes me look like Bill Dance. In San Diego, I would struggle to catch bass and catfish at local lakes. Here, nobody cares about bass and catfish. The sad fact is, it's only going to get worst for Tampa/St Pete area as far as number of boats and anglers, especially inshore. I go fishing to relieve stress not to add to it so the spots on YouTube are the one I avoid. Generally they are land-based and get blown out and the fish moves anyway. If you have a boat, there's thousands of other spots with the seemingly endless inter-coastal water way, beaches, docks, bridges, not to mention the fantastic Gulf of Mexico where winter time fishing is fantastic inside 20 miles. I don't like what social media has done but it forces me to find new spots and learn the area and techniques even better. I can fish weekdays so I feel bad for the weekend warriors inshore and offshore. I'm self taught and prefers it that way for fishing. It's just more satisfying learning from the tough day once you figure it out. But like TimS said, selling out on YouTube, Facebook, etc is selling your soul to destroy the very sport that you enjoy.
  3. The Line Laboratory on YouTube just did a test on this line in the PE 1.5. He got an ABS of 27.38, line diameter of .23 mm and FG knot strength of 18.29 lbs or 66.8 %. It ranked 6th in tensile strength. It would have ranked 1st if he got 29.25 lbs. The larger 4 inch bollard used in our primitive tester tends to give higher results that is closer to the manufacturer's testing. IGFA bollard(line holder are about 3 inches in diameter as far as I can see on YouTube) used in their line tester are much bigger than the Line Laboratory bollard. So he pretty much confirmed that the line has great strength to diameter ratio but a little below average FG knot strength. Looking at the line under a microscope, he got an average of .23 mm, matching our DERIVED method, using nothing but a $30 scale to measure the line mass and a published density of spectra material by Honeywell. Under a microscope, the line diameter ranges from .203 mm to .255 mm
  4. If you're making a snelled leader, it's much easier to use the video I linked. If you're retying a broken off hook, yes then you would have to do a whipped finish over the top of the hook which is cumbersome. For making snelled leader, it's much easier to wrap around the hook eye and main line end than to go over the top of the hook and wrap around the tag end. Give it a try and you'll never do the power snell when you're making snelled leader.
  5. Yep, the exposed crossover on the barrel wraps is another weak point that can easily get knick or abraded down by the sand paper mouth of some fish. It's pretty hard to cut thru the entire barrel wrap or abraded it down and with both the tag end and main line protected inside the wraps, the snell I've shown is the best. But it's nearly impossible to find the right video on YouTube. Sure you can achieve the same knot using a whipped snell but it's no where near as fast and efficient. Also the method I posted makes it trivial to do a double snelled hooks. Just skip the part about inserting the line thru the hook eye. Do that as a last step. Lay both tag end and main line parallel to the shank and just wrap around the hook shank and the main line end, from the hook eye toward the top of the hook. Then just pull on main line to tighten. Then insert main line thru hook eye.
  6. See the 90 degrees in step 2? The main line meets the tag end perpendiculary. Not good for knot strength. Same as the snell where you form a double line and then wrap and pass tag end thru the double line, creating a perpendicular intersection. Here's a better picture of the fully protected snell tied in under 30 secs with no need for straw or the need to do a whipped style around the front of the hook which leads to lots of wasted leader.
  7. Yeah there are so many videos on YouTube showing a much weaker snell knot than a proper protected snell knot which is a traditional whip snell done with a straw or without a straw. There's actually a way to do it without doing the "whip" part or using a straw. Both the tag end and the main line is covered by the wraps and not exposed to get knick. There's an older video than this that shows the way to do it but I can't find it and this one will have to do:
  8. Found some sample that Beachglassguru sent me maybe back in 2020. Suffix 832 6lbs, Fireline Ultra 8 in 4 lbs, and Berkeley X9 in 8 lbs. Berkeley X9 8 LBS: ABS 16.73 LBS (BOX CLAIM 20 LBS) Line mass 8.6mg/ft - line diameter .205 mm( I digital caliper it around .18 and .19 mm) FG 13.95 lbs = 83% Fireline Ultra 8 crystal 4 lbs: ABS 14.71 lbs Line mass 6.70 mg - line diameter .181 mm and agrees with the digital caliper FG 10.81 lbs = 73.51 %, OK but not great Suffix 832 6lbs : ABS 23.60 lbs Line Mass 12.40 mg but feels thinner than most 10 lbs braid(maybe the gore fiber weighs more than the spectra fiber) Line diameter .246 mm but the digital caliper has it around .22 mm FG 18.89 lbs = 80 %
  9. No brainer from Digitaka at that price. I got the JDM specifically for the PG gear ratio. I slapped 20 lbs Power Pro Maxcuatro and confidently fish 10 lbs of drag for snapper and hogfish. Reel is stupid easy to maintain. Value is so good I wouldn't even look at the Daiwa BG line of reels.
  10. So your braid to swivel knots break at 50% of 59lbs? That's almost 30 lbs. Set your drag at 10 lbs(that is pretty hard to pull off by hand) and go fish. Tying FG or PR to braid then to swivel then to leader is what I always do when I bottom fish for grouper. Like 8 ft of 50-60 lbs mono leader and then pass leader thru egg sinker and then a bead and swivel and then fluoro leader to a hook. It solve the weak braid knot problem but more importantly, less fouling of sinker and adds abrasion resistance to the ledges and hard bottoms.
  11. There is so many things wrong with this video. Not a good example on how to make a strong AG chain knot in braid or mono.
  12. Do some testing with fluorocarbon line. I think mono have excellent knot strength in general because of it's high stretch nature. Try the twice thru AG chain knot. No need to pass it thru three times. Pass tag end thru loop once and start you set of alternating half hitches. It's a pretty neat knot and you will see how smoothly it acts with destructive testing.
  13. The Toit knot works well with mono but in my limited testing with Yozuri and Seaguar Invizx, it is only slightly better than a Palomar knot. The AG chain knot(just twice thru) and 5-7 sets of alternating half hitches is the best for mono and fluorocarbon. It test about 95-99% of actual breaking strength. In testing with braid, it's no better than a Palomar knot. I'm not getting anywhere near his average of 80%.
  14. PR knot and Benjamin knot is essentially a bimini twist with a closed loop. The bimini twist pattern is essentially the basis for all strong knot, mainly because it wraps up and then down without crossing and binding. When you test line for actual breaking strength, you are wrapping lines around a dowel or a bollard with each 360 degrees turn reducing the force on the line and you can pull until it breaks at it's actual strength.
  15. Use a PR bobbin to make a bimini twist either in braid or mono.
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