nowildwood

BST Users
  • Content count

    133
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About nowildwood

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Converted

  • About Me:
    Backbay & Surf only.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fish
  • What I do for a living:
    Retired

Profile Fields

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Dirty Jerz
  1. Richie, Penn still sells the Slammer 2’s in Australia and lists them along with the Slammer 3’s on their Australia website. These things are are a bargain at less than $80 a pop. Takes 7 to 10 days for delivery. I bought several Penn reels from tackle shops in AU off Flea bay. Only thing is for the warranty you need to return it to AU. The slammers are easy to work on yourself and Mystic has all the parts you need so the warranty doesn’t mean much to me.
  2. Doesn’t look like much but makes a big difference. All the roller parts and bail screws are the same for 260,360,460 and 560. Height of the bail arm is the only difference.
  3. For those of you that have been following this, the new rotor showed up at noon. The rotor wasn't my problem. Turns out that apparently the bail arm for a 260/360 (part#034-260) was put on at the factory by mistake. I'll order part 034-5600 now. This has been a humbling experience and a lesson learned. Still love the Penn's though.
  4. Whomever from Penn that responded gave me a clue to what the problem was. The spool was obviously sitting up too high. I had switched all the internals and nothing changed. I finally switched the rotor after the Penn guy gave me the clue. That solved my problem. I'm going to order part 27-4600 from Mystic today. I should have it tomorrow. Thanks.
  5. I stripped the line off, reassembled the reel, put new line on. Same problem. It beat me and I surrender. I’m going to mail it in for service.
  6. There were no shims present.
  7. I recently bought a new Slammer 460 on eBay from a tackle shop in Australia. About $80 shipped to dirty Jerz. Line lay is all bunched up at the bottom of the spool. I switched out parts from an old Slammer 460 and nothing worked; eccentric, eccentric gear, shaft etc. If I put the new spool on my old reel line lay is perfect. What else can I try? Thanks
  8. Looking for a Hilts storm mold for 2-3-4-5 ounces that someone is willing to part with.
  9. Here's a picture of a topless crimped trap that was made buy a guy that is no longer in business. Frame wire and trap wire are galvanized. He had a good reputation but he changed jobs and trap building was a side thing for him.
  10. The one I show in the post came rigged with 15' of nylon line and a 3"x4" orange float and set me back $30 plus tax at a well known chain marine store..It is definitely a quality trap. I have sourced most of the materials I need. I have no experience with welding but am willing to buy equipment and learn .However, if I use #9 galvanized wire and crimp with pieces of hydraulic tubing I can always repair a failed joint on the fly with a good pair of pliers and if I lose the trap with a low build cost it won't be a big loss. If you have ever set out 30 traps or so you lose track of them at times especially on open water. Foxy mate makes a topless trap but it looks really cheaply made and I like quality things. I have a lot of time on my hands nowadays and I am bored catching throw back fluke during the summer. This is a new hobby for me. Thanks for the contributions so far.
  11. Ted, Do you know what type of equipment I would need? Thanks for the response.
  12. I'm interested in building a few topless traps and I'm trying to figure out how the butt joint is made on the stainless steel wire frame. Can someone tell me if it is pulse welded with expensive equipment or soldered with supplies I can get from HD/Lowes. I know the easy way out is to use a two inch piece of brake line as a sleeve and crimp but I want them to look professional. Thanks
  13. No responses. I'm going to lock.
  14. Closed due to lack of interest in the BE. BY was sold, paid for and delivered.