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NIGHTIDES

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Everything posted by NIGHTIDES

  1. Makes 100% sense. Each plug ultimately gets the benefit of 4+ protective coats that will hopefully and effectively negate those tendencies. -seal coat -primer coat -paint coat -top coat With this in mind, I did a 'seal' test using 1.5" Poplar pucks to see what additional info I could get. The results as followings: -Etex /1-coat vs 2-coat unheated wood -Etex /1-coat vs 2-coat heated wood -DC-2 epoxy /1-coat vs 2-coat unheated wood -DC-2 epoxy /1-coat vs 2-coat heated wood -Poly oil based Satin 1-coat vs 3-coats unheated wood -Naked wood (as a control sample) The sealer was applied only to the end grain side of the cut dowel pieces. All the 'sealers' had time to dry/cure. Then put a bead of water of about 1g on the sealed dowel end pieces and waited 4hrs to see what may become most obvious. This is what I observed and concluded from the worst to the best potential option: Worse to Best 1-coat -Naked Poplar wood (the control piece) is a sponge that drank all the water in <10 seconds. -Poly Satin 1-coat held the bead but when the water was dumped off it had a water stain of the wood where the water was sitting. -Etex 1-coat heated wood or cold wood OR DC-2 epoxy 1-coat heated or cold wood:: no difference between any of the 4.. Water beaded nicely. When water was dumped off, there was some residual water in the crevasses of the grain with no apparent penetration. Worse to Best 2-coat -Poly Satin 3-coat held the bead well and when the water was dumped off, the residual water was still beaded and wiped off dry. Needed 3 coats to get to this level not the 2. -Etex 2-coat heated wood or cold wood OR DC-2 epoxy 2-coat heated or cold wood:: no difference between any of the 4. Water again beaded nicely. When water was dumped off, there was some residual water but the crevasses were more filled in by the Etex. The residual water was still beaded and wiped off dry. The DC-2 epoxy was the same as the Etex 2-coat but left a much more glossy and filled in surface. I would say too glossy and too filled in requiring sanding before primer coat. My thoughts are that two Etex apply & wipe coats thoroughly sealed the wood without adding much weigh at all and left a superior non-glossy surface ready for primer. Also feeding the Poplar end grain with as much as they want to drink serves no purpose other than possibly adding strength (if needed). The biggest downside is the substantial additional nonsymmetrical weight gain that will frustrate the balancing of the plug.
  2. Heated poplar + Etex for me drinks a lot! A 7.5" poplar plug will easily take 10cc of Etex and it still want more. Not wanting to compromise the sealing step, I'll mix up & apply some more to complete the process then wipe off the plug and cure. In the end, for that one plug 10-15cc may be used. Same here. I float test and use electrician's tape & lead to balance the plug's neutral attitude. Since I use only 1 belly treble and a tail flag, correct balance always the challenge and the focus. Furthermore, the topcoat will accentuate any off-balance mistakes just by adding more weight to the finished plug. All of this stems from the fact that most of the exposed and thirsty wood grain is in the head/forward part of the plug. If the wood used is supper absorbent (poplar!!), that forward section will gain the most and will change the counterbalance lead position for the plug more towards the rear every time; sometimes by a lot. This is why I began thinking about Helmsman Spar as maybe getting seal done with less weight. Also maybe just limiting the amount of Etex/epoxy used.
  3. Yes! It is buoyancy, plug attitude, and ultimately the plug action. For example: a plug can gain 1/4 - 1/2 oz of weight after the 'sealing' process. This weight gain is not as evenly distributed as one might think as it depends on where the most exposed end grain is. Also some individual plugs have a greater thirst for Etex than their fellow plugs in the same batch of clones. I have found that this does change the center of buoyancy and the plugs resting attitude in the water. This ultimately introduces different swim characteristics and makes me want to +/- weight to adjust for the differences or not letting the plugs soak in as much epoxy as they want; but that may defeat the purpose of the sealing step. Don't know but less is obviously better health wise without question. Negative health outcomes may not be immediately apparent, but they can/will visit later in life. I'm a rattle can guy as well and only do it outdoors while donning a cartridge respirator, eye protection, etc. Scares the squirrels away for sure.
  4. The wood is poplar. Been using the heat & Etex route as a sealer with no issues except with the weight gain of the plug once sealed. I let the heated plug absorb as much as it wants then wipe down and let it cure. The typical weight gain for a 6" plug = 4.5 - 6g and for a 7.5" plug 8 - 13g. Varies from plug to plug. The weight gain is distributed as the plug's grain dictates. In the end after paint & topcoat, I will just tune the line tie and possibly the lip as to optimize the plug's action. Does the Helmsman Spar go on thinner with potentially less weight gain (my goal) and is it close to equal in attaining a good wood seal? Also instead of the oil Spar Urethane, will the water-based formulation work as well? Trying to minimize VOCs. Just kicking around these thoughts. Thanks for the help.
  5. I have only used the Gibbs and find it works well but has some shortcomings. Going to explore and use the mid-sized BM Danny more. Maybe get the larger one and compare firsthand. Thank for the info.
  6. Swam a 6' BM Danny today that has been sitting in a drawer for the past 30yrs. I think it has a nicer swim as compared to the Gibbs Danny of the same size. Doesn't roll out as much and can handle faster retrieve if needed. I have not seen the larger BM Danny nor fished one. What might the length be (7.5"?) and how does it compare to the Gibbs large Danny?
  7. What is it in your experience makes the BM Danny a standout over most others?
  8. Today tried the direct tie method, with feathering, with lobbing. Still about 25% of the time fouling. Very windy day to boot. Then tried a 4" trace if #9 wire with a loop on each end. Fouling reduced down to 4% of the time; much better experience actually now fishing the plug with minimal frustration. The stiff trace of wire prevents the hook from grabbing on to the line. Swim action of the lure was preserved. So far so good. I know this plug looks wounded and gets water logged and has seen better days. But it continues to get the job done as it has with approximately 1,000lbs+/- fish to date. Thanks for all the very helpful inputs and help.
  9. This is the offending plug! As you can see, I moved the from hook swivel back 3/4". Previously I was using a cut hook. No real difference. Also in the photo you can see that I sealed the 2nd hook hole with lead/epoxy to keep the plug balanced and swimming just as originally intended. I am now lobing the plug and feathering the line towards the end of the cast. This has helped a bit and I am down to about 25% of the casts fouling. Using conventional gear should have the same positive lobing effect since that is the way the cast is made with conventional gear. If memory serves, fresh water guys that have had fouling issues with certain glide baits resorted to using a trace of wire attached to the plug to solve the issue. Theory is the running line will have a more difficult time wrapping around the hook. My take away is as follows: -try tying direct but no loop knot. -try a tract of wire. -try adding a bit more weight to the plug's rear without killing its action so she 'flys' better. -try moving the single belly hook back to where the lead belly weight is and put an offsetting weight where the front hook was. Does anyone know the weight of that belly slug?
  10. The 4/0 I was using was cut so no split ring. I balanced the weight shift due to the hook removal w/ lead so the plug balance and swim is as it was in it's original form. Eliminating the belly swivel of the front hook would give fish more leverage to eject plug or bend the hook. I had 3/0 on before and hook-up retention with the just one hook was not great. Plug tumbles. It is center balanced by design. Keep ideas coming. Appreciate all your inputs.
  11. Fishing the Large Danny more recently than the past. Have modified the plug to just a front hook (4/0 VMC 4x), no second hook and a flag on the tail. 50% of the time the hook tangles with the leader and lip. Driving me nuts so I moved the front hook swivel back 3/4" and rewired the plug. Still an issue. What should I try next? Yes the plug tumbles in flight and I have tried 'feathering" the spool at the end of the cast but still NG. Really want to make it not tangle. Any input is welcome. Thanks.
  12. Finished the thinned Etex single topcoat. Plug weight gain came out to 1.8g. Warming the Etex really allowed for a thin coat with minimal-to-zero bubbles to deal with. And best of all, plug action was preserved.
  13. Yep, kind of like 'roll & tip' process. Grateful to all for each and every tip. I will go with one coat of warmed thinned mix of Etex as it gives me more work time when compared to D2. Next batch of these small plugs I will go up an 1/8" dia in wood size to add extra buoyancy. Thanks again for the help.
  14. Tested Rustolium 2X clear but too soft; does not pass a simple nail test. DiamondFinish has mixed reviews. Have not really seen other rattle can options. Maybe a simple lite coat of polyurethane.?
  15. Absolutely! Several times that 'xtra coat of protection' has led me down the path of 'shouldn't have done it'...! That is the reason for this pause. That wood rash does add lots of weight, but with that nice plug it looks like a plus to me.
  16. Made some small (4" +/-) metal lip plugs that swim test-perfect prior to paint & topcoat. Do not want topcoat to add lots of weight and make the plug more subsurface. Etex or DC2 @ 2 coats has been my go to but trying to not go so heavy. What did Danny plug / Gibbs use as their topcoat? That always seemed thin. Any thoughts? Maybe just one thin coat DC2? Thank you.
  17. Crickets for 2 weeks then a note that the orders will be shipped the next day. Sounded encouraging. Then another 3 weeks of crickets and zero response to emails and tel call. Really?? Asked for the orders to be cancelled. No response and more crickets until credit card company dispute filed. Orders finally cancelled. Unfortunate.
  18. Just found one of these units and would like to be able to use it fully as a portable Loran on different boat as a tool to convert existing Loran numbers to GPS waypoints. Can't get the unit to even 'lock' on to signal yet.. Anybody with a lead as to where I get a copy or if you have a copy and are willing to make a copy or scan a copy I will pay you for your time, expense, and effort.. Thanks you for your assistance..
  19. Have used the Garmin 182 Monochrome unit w/ Blue Chart for years. Just switched it out for a new Garmin 182C color unit for better visibility. Colors are great and more visible but the WAAS corrected signal has an accuracy of 25-80'..!! When I turn the WAAS correction off, I get 15-17' accuracy. I have the latest version of firmware installed (6.2). I also checked w/ two other dock mates to see what they were getting w/ their Garmin units... same lack of accuracy as mine. What are you guys achieving as far as accuracy?? Is there any way to adjust the actual unit as to obtain a more accurate position..?? Thanks.
  20. Try a used Grady 22'. I'm on the South Shore with mine for the last 8 years and could not be happier.
  21. In time it seems that all spots will be burnt...one by one... I just don't get it..
  22. Get rid of the Bird. Get one of the color units from Lowrance. It will not disappoint. I've been using Lowrance in the salt for 10yrs.
  23. I used the 182 mono for 2 years so far. Color is a waste. It is great without the color.
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