No Bull S

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About No Bull S

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    Elite Member

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fly Fishing, baseball, reading, music, travel, lots of travel, what do you expect from a drifter?
  • What I do for a living:
    Drifter
  1. Killiefish, Take a look at the two later videos on my facebook page. You'll see me making a couple of long forward casts in slo mo. Look at my hand, the rod, and everything else. The drift is there. You can see it plainly. It's funny. I have something I'd wanted to edit into the drift video (after viewing it when it was produced) , and I have the shot ready too. Just didn't put it in because many liked the video as it is. But now maybe I'll edit it in. It's exactly what you ask. Me casting in slo mo doing the drift. In the end, just look at me making some long casts in slo mo on any of my videos and you'll see the drift. It's how I cast - just sometimes the drift is longer and sometimes it's shorter. Mark
  2. I have released some short fly casting videos at Riversage Journal (riversagejournal.com), on u tube, and also on my facebook page (Mark Sedotti). They were shot by Anthony Loganzo. Have shot more and will be releasing them during the next few weeks as well. Plan to shoot even more and they will be released over the next year. I think they're pretty good, and can help people here on stripersonline, no matter what level caster you are. Have a look, and enjoy! Riversage Journal is an new and great online magazine that covers many aspects of fly fishing as well as birdhunting, bird dogs, and outdoor game cooking. It's really excellent! Have a look! All My Best, Mark Sedotti
  3. Bait Tailer, Send me some video of you casting and I'll suggest one or two easy changes to make that if followed will likely improve you quite a bit. My e mail is msedotti@hotmail.com. I also have been doing a lot of casting practice myself recently. Mark Sedotti
  4. It's important to have the short pairs of feathers on top and below the long tail feathers. Also vital to use enough clumps of bucktail tied up the shank on top and on bottom. Got to have the keel in there as it helps the spacing of the clumps. One step lays the foundation for the next. The end fly has the shape of the menhaden closely. This will suffice for an alewife. An attractive thing for this fly is that you have so many "ends" wiggling. The ends of all the feathers top middle and lower, and all the ends of the hi and lo tied clumps. Don't forget the bicktail on the sides! Tie the fly closely to the videos - follow the steps closely. It is a precisely tied fly. Work on it and try the flies in the water after you tie them. MS
  5. If the fly looks fine and has the profile you like in the water, your application of peacock hurl is fine. I like my white saddles to not splay in my fly. This is an imitator and I want my mackerel to imitate closely. But test your splayed fly out! You never know! You'll have to see for yourself if your "fatness" is good for your particular fly and size of fly. It's trial and error. I don't know if the stiffness of the coke feathers makes an effective fly at 6 or eight inches. Maybe schlappen or saddles would work better for flies in those sizes. I don't know. You have to tie some up and see what they look like in the water. I've tied flies that have looked incredible in the vise and in hand (and felt had INCREDIBLE promise), but when I put them in the water they were nothing special. Got to try the flies out! MS
  6. That's really pretty good! I can't see how "fat" the fly is though. That comes from the bucktail tied in over (on the side) the keel with a saddle tied over that. (Bob Popovics taught that to me) I don't know about if it is important on the fly that size, but it is on the 9 and 10 inch one. Perhaps you don't need that on a 6 inch fly. It's funny, I never tied the Mackerel that small. Also, the peacock hurl is tied in at the middle of the shank, NOT at the head. Only bucktail at the head. It's important for a good profile. I'm a stickler for profile with my flies and worked very hard to get that accurate. Hence I started putting the peacock hurl in back of the head bucktail. Can't remember anyone who did that before me. Nice looking fly. How does it look in the water? Mark Sedotti
  7. I AM Mark, so yes, I am referencing this. Instructions I give in the post are easier to follow, I think. MS
  8. SEDOTTI MACKEREL I don't know if anyone is going to see this. I have a Sedotti Mackerel which has been in tying books like Bob Ververka's. It's tied with feathers, bucktail, and peacock hurl and it was usually 10 inches long - maybe 9 sometimes. I used four big blue or green schlappen as the tail (put vermiculations in with a black marker). A few times I even used two coke feathers instead. There were fewer steps hi and low tying because it was narrower, to fit a mackerel shape, which it did VERY well. Even three dimensionally. It was by far the most productive mackerel imitation I ever saw. Just looked like a mackerel swimming through the water. I perhaps LOST the biggest striper I ever hooked, on it! That behemoth took it in a giant swirl, and then headed down the Kennebec River non-stop at 100 mph! Well, it SEEMED that fast at the time! I haven't tied it in many years because I haven't needed it in my fishing. Steps: Tie in wire to make a loop behind 5/0 or 6/0 front hook 2.) tie in four big schlappen feathers in rear like Deceiver. 3.) wrap hook shank with .030 weighted wire. 4.) construct keel with 12 or 15 one half inch pieces of .030 weighted wire. 3 layers of 4 or 5 pieces to shape a rectangular boxed keel. keel is in middle of shank. 5.) Tie in four 7 inch white schlappen below back feathers on bottom of shank in back. 6.) In middle of shank on top tie in big clump of long peacock hurl - it will end say an inch or two before end of tailfeathers. 7.) tie in big clump (but not TOO big) of white bucktail on side of keel ON BOTH SIDES. 8.) Just ahead of this tie in a white saddle (on both sides) that will cover this "side" bucktail and will cover the bottom half of the fly. This gives you the important 3 D effect! It must be prominent, but not bulbous. 9.)Tie in a clump of long white bucktail behind hook eye on each side to give you a head side. 10.) Tie in clump of long white bucktail like Deceiver on bottom right in back of hook eye. 11.) Tie in clump of long green bucktail like Deceiver on top right behind hook eye. 12.) Glue on big eye on both sides. 13.) Marker in vermiculations on tail feathers with black marker. Get this fly right and you will be CATCHING when there are big mackerel around. This fly is FAR more productive than any mackerel imitations made with synthetics that I've come across and I don't know why.
  9. You probably don't have to set THAT hard with a no.10 hook, but you still have to set! I must say I really don't use many small, thin wire hooks for my streamers. Even for trout.
  10. One thing I've learned in streamer fishing both salt and fresh is to SET THE HOOK! I do it harder than most and usually multiple times. Put it to those fish when using steamers. Don't use tippet too light if you can and don't let it bother you if you pop a few off. You'll end up hooking and landing a lot more this way. I lost too many fish after the strike at the beginning so I learned to jab and pull real good. And remember, no matter WHAT you do you're going to drop some. You can also experiment with the "popper" strike. Capt. Joe LeClair taught me this. After the fish takes the "popper" (for you fly) pull on that line with a straight constant static pull with the rod bent heavily. Take the stretch out of the line and hold this. Works like a charm with poppers, and on tarpon too! With poonies I oftimes don't use much or any rod bend. Mark
  11. If he REALLY has the interest I would put a fly rod in his hands now. You teach him to use it. Instruct him often when you're practicing or fishing. See how he gets it or doesn't get it and proceed from there. If he can consistently pay attention, listen, and learn (adjust) you'll be there. It'll happen or not happen. If it doesn't you (and he) still have a lot of time.
  12. My friend Jay Bobowitz first explained to me, in the late 80's, why a much shorter fly rod would be better for boat fishing. How standard rods (which were long) were originally designed for trout and salmon fishing, wading, and mending, and that boat fishing had it's own specific needs - and that the time had more than come! When I became casting columnist for Saltwater Fly Fishing Magazine (defunct now for years) in 1995 I essentially got access to all rod companies and their rod makers. This allowed me to pursue a practical short rod and experiment! I asked all around and the guy who was most in tune with what I was looking for was Kenny Karmen of Biscayne Rods in Miami. He told me that his grandfather had built 6 ft. fly rods for sailfish in the 60's. He built me 2 rods (specifically designed for what I wanted for my Northeast boat fishing needs) in the mid 90's (both one piece, FAST action and powerful - all short rods I'd heard of or seen before this had been SLOW and exactly what I DIDN'T want!). A 7 and a 7 1/2 footer. Both for applying max pressure on a 15 lb. tippet also. I found that a 10 wt. (for the 7 ') and a 12 wt. fly line (for the 7 1/2) worked well. I used these two rods exclusively for two seasons for all my northeast saltwater fishing. They casted well and fished REAL well. The reason I went back to 9 ft. rods is that I found a very few 9 footers that casted better, and I liked that. No one would continually experiment on short rods anyway. Aside from Ken, no one would even start. Then I went on the Scott Fly Rod Pro staff so I stayed with their rods. They wouldn't build me a short rod later on either. So I put it on hold. So even later on (2015?) Capt. Ian Devlin and Steve Rajeff came along and allowed me to resurrect the old short rod concept. Hence G. Loomis Shortsticks. Mark
  13. I never got to field test the Loomis Shortstick ( I know it's surprising) the way I wanted to. In fact I didn't get to field test it at all! But recently I've been able to put it through some great and at times pretty rough fishing. Lots of big False Albacore, Blackfin Tuna, Cobia, and muchos big bluefish in shallow water too. Here's what I have to say. Shouldn't have discontinued this rod. But of course they did! This is because of the universal axiom in fly fishing which states: If you find an article of fly fishing tackle (or related) that you like, and it is REALLY good, buy a few of them because the better it is, the shorter the time it'll be available. This has been proven to me again and again! I've used the 10/11 and the 11/12 models lately. First off, the shorter rod (7 1/2 ft.) fights the fish faster, easier, and better than the 9 footer. NO QUESTION. That shorter lever makes a big and very noticeable difference. Add shortening the lever even more (like pointing the rod at the fish or having it mostly horizontal when pulling) and you simply kick A with that fightn' combination. Shorter rod and a fly line to pull through the water tires fish faster than even a spinning rod! You can just about hear the fish crying "uncle" through the bubbles. You even shorten the rod (and lever) more by using your hand on the extended foregrip provided on the rod! It makes a difference. Was asked if I thought these would be good fighting tarpon and I didn't know. Now I can say I think they will do a great job fighting them. And probably fishing them too. But I still have to try on tarpon. I have to see how they are with the repeated pick up and cast scenario common to the poonie game. The rods cast great in a boat, store great, feel so light. I almost got to the point asking why you would even WANT to use a 9 footer in a boat anyway?! Such disadvantages! Note: If you have a 9 footer and it CASTS GREAT, then why stop using it? Rods that cast great for YOU personally are SO hard to come by regardless of length. I should know, I've had to work my way through what seems like millions to find the few I really like (and have liked - may those fine rods and their wonderful memories rest in peace!) These two Shortsticks cast better than the VAST majority of rods I've casted for their line weights. And if I wanted to cast using mostly my wrist, these rods will excel! Try doing that with any of your rods! I don't know about you, but I certainly know of a few casters out there who might be using "just a little too much" wrist. Or maybe thousands! Good Casting, Mark
  14. The first flies I saw for pike made all or mostly with flash were from Scandinavia and they were sent to me from a tyer in Sweden in the late 90's. In the early 90's American pike flies were made of rabbit. I had flash flies from the Howe's, had tied the Flashiceiver as a result of those, had written an article about flash flies in Saltwater Fly Fishing Magazine about the Howes and flash flies, and was thinking flash flies would probably do great on pike (like the old time spoon maybe?), way better then rabbit flies, and couldn't understand why these weren't popular (let alone even EXISTED) for pike in North America. Hadn't fished for pike with flies yet too. Up to this time had only used flash flies for Northeast saltwater fish and freshwater trout. The Howe's had used them for many species. After this, with some research, I contacted a tyer in Sweden or he contacted me, I don't remember which, and he sent me some of his flies. Loved them. Even after all this and that, flash flies just took SO long to catch on here for pike.
  15. Jabster, those are REALLY beautiful flies! Man, will they take pike! The bottom fly of those three is essentially an elaborate Flashiceiver (or looks very much like it, but more aesthetic) and the orange one above is even more elaborate. Those flies will take many species of fish in salt and freshwater! Those bottom two will also be incredible squid flies for stripers as is the Flashiceiver!