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Everything posted by JKay

  1. I did have to cut out the section of the hull where the s/n was and carry that with me to the dealer. I actually cut up the hull so that it could fit nicely into my wife's minivan so it could be recycled. It was also a lot of fun to do with my son on a hot day. A sawzall makes fast work of everything. We smoked ribs after that. Notice the modded el cheapo Brinkmann in the background.
  2. I did almost the exact same thing with my first Revo hull years ago. Moss green...I kicked myself after learning that I was spending more and more time in salt water. I was really happy the day I got to do this. Hull number three is yellow. Nice and bright.
  3. From the album DOES COLOR MATTER ?

  4. You got it Dave. I counted 23 out there yesterday at 5pm. I don't even want to think about what it'll look like this weekend. I've got my sights on a different stretch of water hopefully next time I'm out. There are NEVER crowds there.
  5. Speaking of disparaging, there's some folks who don't like tube n' worm because it's "slow and boring". Once you get the "JKay Signature" version, it's game on...right buddy?
  6. Speaking of disparaging, there's some folks who don't like tube n' worm because it's "slow and boring". Once you get the "JKay Signature" version, it's game on...right buddy?
  7. Yes, I did use a heat gun. That's actually the only way that you can get it to adhere and lay properly around curves. I was very high on the stuff during the first season. The 2 boats that I had it on are the highest use kayaks that I have, so I'm not surprised that the KeelEazy lifted there first. The Kaskazi is a glass boat, so in theory the adhesion should be a lot better than polyethylene. I also take more care with that kayak than the other two. The bottom of the plastic boats get put through some challenging stuff.
  8. It starting peeling at the corners, then the front leading edge would catch on small rocks, etc. Once sand got into the adhesive it was all over. A little more would peel back after each trip. I had cut some of it back to get rid of the flap, then it would start again. I finally ripped was was left off.
  9. I had a different experience with the KeelEazy. I installed the Keel Eazy on 3 kayaks. It's still there on the Kaskazi, but lifted badly on the corners on the Revo and P13. I thought the product was promising at first, but in the end I cannot endorse it. If it can't stay put, it's of little value to me. Sorry that I couldn't post a more positive review.
  10. The big Wheeleez urethane wheels are the only ones that I've found that work well in the sand. They are expensive, but you pay once and don't look back. They'll hold a max of about 120 lbs per wheel.
  11. When I traveled on business and had my kayak on the roof, occasionally I'd have to park in a garage. I could get into a fair number of them without any issue. I'll never forget having my car valet parked (required) at a hotel in DC. The looks that I got from the parking valets were priceless. I told the guy no less than 4 times, "make sure it's going to clear". It did.
  12. Oh boy, it's going to be a fun time at J-Bay!
  13. Ding, ding, ding...we've got a winner. Also rhymes with Poe.
  14. I did that with a buddy of mine for several years. That gets old. He finally bought a fishfinder last season.
  15. Why not...I don't get it.
  16. If you have the width for the 175 and will be trolling, I'd personally go in this direction. Through bolting with backing plates should give you a rock solid installation.
  17. Thanks for the tip. I normally keep cranking with the rivet gun until is breaks off. The 3 petal style sometimes break all over the place.
  18. They should break off at the flange, but unfortunately they all don't. I've put in a fair number of rivets over the years and they still break off above the flange at times.
  19. Bill, that's a great looking solution. Where does the rivet typically break off in this scenario?
  20. Thanks, but I must have been skinnier back then. I've eaten a lot of pizzas since those installs...right zig?
  21. What kind of kayak do you have? If it's a Revo, I've done 2 older hulls with that handle there. You can definitely use nuts & bolts. The reach is guaranteed to stretch you out a bit though. I didn't bother installing one on my latest Revo hull. Since Hobie did away with those molded handles, I found that I didn't need the behind the seat handle any longer.
  22. Good advice. I would not use well nuts or anything else that has the potential to be pulled out of the plastic. The GT175 is YakAttack's original track. Very well designed, but can be a bit wide for some gunwales on kayaks. If you can't fit those, you're back to figuring out the best way to mount another style. You can also make your own backing plates from HDPE cutting board material (Target, Walmart). There's various ways to sink a lock nut or flange nut into this material. If you search around, you can find some videos. Here's one that is easy to understand. I may harp on this a bit, but through bolting is the best way to go unless you have no other options.
  23. Totally agree. Harken makes some nice pulleys, but they can be expensive. CaptDick used to have some non-Harken SS pulleys on his website that were something like $10 or $11 for 2. He's got lots of parts that you'd need for an anchor trolley. I did away with my anchor trolleys. I rarely used them.