BillZ

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About BillZ

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    1,000 Post Club!
  • Birthday 08/05/1964

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  • What I do for a living:
    Engineering Manager / CNC Programmer

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    Eastern LI

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  1. Im on L.I I fished mostly South shore bays around bridges & the back side of inlets, did a lot of before work trips in the AM, other prime areas like north shore spots just took too long to get to so i focused on where i found them close to home...... 1st week of the season up to about the 2nd or 3rd week of june was real good with several 22 - 24+" fish & enough keepers to keep me coming back, not so good from there on out.......
  2. Now you're changing things around........ "If you're catching fish from the yak and a boat full of fisherman asks if you caught anything, what do you say?" That's it....... Nothing else about helping someone if they asked what they were on, then you go on about these guys crowding your spot & some karma thing... whatever dude... invite everyone over if it makes you happy, just don't complain about it
  3. Ask a stupid question.... you get a stupid answer At least you admit this thread is useless
  4. "If you're catching fish from the yak and a boat full of fisherman asks if you caught anything, what do you say?" Sounds like you already know the answer to this one...............................
  5. I have no clue of what standards Hobie operates under but I'm in the machining industry & deal with a wide range of materials................. EVERYTHING , even the plastic's we use, have a material cert. nothing changes when you have certification of what you are ordering. does Hobie not require certs of their material lots??? I would think, or hope they would...... i also know certified matl. costs more than un-certified matl.
  6. Wouldn't that translate into a longer stroke similar to a longer paddle stroke which would translate into more forward momentum ? Each fin on the wheel has a longer amount of time to create energy, IMO, if that wheel was any higher the fin wouldn't create much energy at all.....
  7. makes sense.... That # could easily be 5-1 and not 10-1, whose to really say? Someone should contact all the major manufacturers that make prop boats & do a survey on how many prop boats they sell per year, i wonder if they'd divulge that info? would be interesting to see some better numbers for the charts......
  8. I was curious of something here................ Where did this 1,000 prop boats -vs- 10,000 hobie's sold per year number come from anyway?? Sounds like a random arbitrary number.
  9. All good points..... once i got near a volt meter i checked power at the end of the cable, .....it was fine .....it just wasn't connecting to the head....... had to be over greased..... probably insulated the crap out of the connection Everythings a go now, just powered it up a minute ago just for the hell of it.. I think I'm gonna try riddlers oxguard suggestion...
  10. Don't want to hi-jack but this seemed like the best thread to post this since its about insulating or conductivity of dielectric grease...... So the other day, while on the water, i mistakenly disconnected the power chord from the back of my helix 7, it actually got yanked when i moved it. No biggie, let me plug it back in & fire it back up.... BUT It didn't want to power up again, hit land, checked everything, connections, fuse but still no dice.......... I had all kinds of bad thoughts running thru my mind, thought something serious happened when the plug got yanked..... Got home, tried again & again to fire it up........ nothing, plug in / plug out several hundred times, tried the power, nothing, so i decided to clean out all the effing dielectric grease i had in the plug & connector & try everything cleaned up & fresh .....what do you know ??? It fired up no problem..... Disconnected the plug & connected it with the power test afterwards over & over...looks like the problem is solved, maybe too much grease???..... never had this problem before, wonder wtf happened? Coincidence it coincided with the plug pulling out episode? ...... maybe. Comments??
  11. Looks like you've got 2 separate areas your talking about? I commented on this one in post 29...... i agree, no working room with this one Then there's this area........ looks like you have access to work...yes? I don't envy you one bit my friend
  12. By notching, you expose the matl. to be joined down to its root, By exposing the matl down to the root you enable both sides of this matl to be heated to the point where it becomes more fluid allowing it to be joined with the filler matl. These are some examples of required notching for successful joins.....
  13. Can't comment on the 5200 but its a well known issue with anything sticking to HDPE.... At the very least it won't hold but it sounds like a doable first try at this....your call FWIW; If you want to go the welding route, 5 gallon buckets are the same HDPE matl, you can learn the "how-to's" on welding that first before you want to try it on the kayak, you can do it over & over till you get comfortable with the procedure. not difficult to do at all... you-tube plastic welding, plenty of videos out there on the subject..you can do the repair with a soldering iron Regards.............
  14. I've done some plastic welding........ for this type of repair you should do as mentioned, drill the ends of the crack than "v-notch" the crack & fill it the same way you would with steel or alum welding..... Its important to get both sides of the matl to be repaired almost fluid in order to get a good weld, if you dont your just covering up the damaged area with new plastic..... it may look pretty but if the 2 sides of the crack & the filler matl dont join together than you're just spinning your wheels.....