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Posts posted by tidewaterfly

  1. What bmac has said! :theman:


    Size and weight is often more important than actual pattern or color. Light or dark works depending on water clarity. Some flies I've used are the same as I use for bass. At times I've gone with flies on size 1/0 hooks, but typically size 2 or 1 has been better choices. For when waters are not clear, I like a little flash in my flies, most often copper or bronze, gold, and a bit of pearl or electric blue. 


    Even Gotcha's work well. 

  2. I struggled with jigs at one time. I think most folks who do, don't give them enough time & use. I stuck with them and eventually "got it". I now make several styles and agree that fall rate & head design both can be critical. All depends on where you fish & what type of snags you encounter. 


    I pretty much cover the weight spectrum for bass jigs, from 1/8 oz up to around 1 oz. Used 1/8. 3/16 & 1/4 oz jigs a lot when I lived in MD and primarily fished shallow tidal waters. When waters were high, 3/8 was often a better choice.


    Now, in SC, 3/8 or 1/2 oz are more typical, but I still carry all the sizes.


    I don't get too excited about colors. Basics like black & blue, green pumpkin or PB & J work most of the time. Since I pour them, I've used all the better brands, and have come to prefer Owner hooks, but still will use all the brands. 


    The question about the skirts, at one time all jigs were tied with natural materials as these skirts we have now didn't exist. Natural materials deteriorate & wear quickly. Once the rubber & eventually silicone skirts became available, the use of natural materials diminished. There is still some folks who use hair jigs, and they still work well. Again, since I make my own, I always have them in my tackle bag. There's nothing wrong with feather jigs either for bass. 


    I have both heavy & extra heavy rods, and often use 50 or 65 lb braid with no leader. Yes, the bass probably can see the line, but they don't associate it with anything negative. No different than them seeing the weed guard or hook on a jig. I use hi vis yellow braid too, because I can see it better. I've used the braids in various colors and cannot say it's made any negative difference. Folks give the bass way to much credit. 


    I've had a saying for a long time now, if you believe they're smarter than you are, then they will be. Too many folks overthink this fishing stuff and out smart themselves.


    As far as the bass mistaking a jig for a craw, that's certainly possible, and in some places highly probable. However, I never assume anything. IT doesn't matter what they take the jig to be or why. They take things in their mouth to check it out even when they're not eating because they don't have hands & fingers. Again, don't assume. The same jig could a craw, a baitfish, a Bluegill or various other things that they may eat, or nothing that they might eat. Fish the jig until you get them to bite. When they grab the jig, that's the only thing that matters. Water temps often dictate how active they may be, so colder = slower, and as the temps rise, so can the movement/action. But, don't get stuck on that as nothing is ever guaranteed.


    For the question about rubber versus silicone skirts. They both have a time & place. Rubber is more buoyant than silicone so tends to move around more with less imparted action, and if there is any current. Rubber also tends to lose some action, and deteriorate quicker than silicone, but silicone breaks easier. Each materials have pro's & con's. 


    I fish a couple of trailers too most, but will experiment. A worm on a jig is an old technique that still can produce. I use a chunk, a twin tail grub, and a Paca Craw type trailer. 


    I'm going to stop here now because my minds not working. Suffice it to say that I always have a jig tied on at least one rod when bass fishing. 


    Here's a couple of jigs I've made.










  3. Not really a bass rod, but I've caught plenty of them with mine. I have a couple Quantum 7' Teton Trout rods. They're ultralight, and by the name intended to fit the spinning market for trout anglers, but a decent rod for bass or panfish if you like fishing on the lighter end of the lure spectrum. 


    There was a tidal river in Md that I often fished for bass, and panfish, that at times got hammered by the local bass clubs. All that pressure made the bass fishing tough. I discovered that I could still catch them by going to fly tackle or ultralight spinning gear. I got an ultralight outfit one year, 5'6" rod I think, and since the tournaments were turning off the bass in that river, I started looking for Crappies, Bluegills and Perch, and found out the bass would hit the various small lures I was tossing and would ignore the more typical bass lures. So, I added one of those Teton Trout rods to my collection, and liked it so much, added a second. Both under $25 for the rod. 

  4. It's done here in SC near where I live. They call it controlled burns, but I never see anyone actually controlling anything, except they may put out signs on the roadways that say "Smoke Ahead" or "Dense Smoke". There's a lot of pine forests here, grown for the timber, and I guess the burning works. It burns off the under growth, and doesn't seem to be harming the tree's, so there's less chance of big forest fires. I'm sure it's a cost thing too, as going in with machinery to cut the undergrowth would cost more. They use machinery to clear areas around many of the forests, I guess as fire breaks. Timber is big business down here & they seem to know what they're doing. 

  5. Like The TideRunner, I've poured them for many years and never found those that I bought to be any better than what I made. The biggest issue I see with many of the store bought types is the hooks are not sharp. So, of course I use different hooks. 


    I don't get real fancy with paint schemes, as much of that is for the angler. 


    I like the tail spinner type lures too, and the bladed jig types ( chatterbait), but make them myself. I don't feel I'm missing anything because of it. 



  6. I bought a pair of Bulldog cutters, based on recommendations from several folks on a bass fishing site that I frequent. So far they've been great, but I haven't used them in saltwater conditions. They make a nice clean cut in braid, and I've cut 15 to 80 lb test with them. For around $15 with the shipping, they've been worthwhile. :)

  7. I just read that one shop near Charleston SC has closed up, and a couple more have been bought & are closing two locations. It is a shame, but from what I saw of the one shop, they were more into high end clothing and tackle than they were basic fly fishing/tying products and frankly, I could get most things they had that I used at better pricing by buying online. 


    It's a tough business to be in, with a limited customer base, and if a business limits their customer base even more with only carrying products that fit the higher end of the price range, then they're going to have a hard time surviving. 


    Unfortunately, most shops probably don't have the resources they need to cover a wider range of potential customers. 


    I'm all for supporting a local shop, but I also can't be foolish with my resources either. 

  8. I pour the bigger jigs with a Hot Pot II electric ladle which will hold about 4 pounds of lead. IMO, a ladle is what you want for bigger jigs anyway. I also have a bottom pour pot and it's great for small jigs, but doesn't pour the big stuff very well, not enough flow volume. I've heard of others drilling out the spigot to get more flow, but I'll stick with the Hot Pot II.


    I sometimes get some flash with some molds, and clean it up with a knife. Makes them look a bit better, and less to deal with as far as adding plastics or tying on them. 


    You can use a primer, but for what you intend, it won't make the paint last any longer. There are "etching" types of enamels and I think both Rustoleum and Krylon have such a paint. It's supposed to bond to the metal better. 


    One thing about enamels when used with plastic baits. The baits tend to soften the paint, since the plastic is a petroleum based material. That's why powder coat paints or vinyl paints last longer on some jigs, the plastic doesn't eat the paint. 



  9. I often paint eyes on jigs with enamels over powder paints. It should not be a problem. The enamel doesn't have the same durability, but the jigs are going to get banged up anyway. 


    With enamel, it works, but again doesn't hold up like powder paints or vinyl paints, but again if you'll lose them anyway, it's a cheap way to paint them. 


    When I used enamel to paint jigs, which has now been many years, I got cheap hobby brushes to use, and got a better coat than dipping. Was a little slower process, but the end result was better and less mess wit paint dripping. 


    If you powder coat jigs, and use an oven to heat them & cure the paint, you can heat up the white and sprinkle a darker powder over the heated jig to get a dark back. I've tried with by dipping a cheap, small paint brush in the powder & tapping it over the jig, but got too many brush bristles in the powder & on the jig. Another way is get a cheap pepper shaker, and put a piece of fiberglass window screen in the cap to act as a filter and shake it over the heated jig. This has worked well for me, and I do it over a piece of parchment paper so I can recover some of the excess powder & reuse it. I know guys who use other means to heat their jigs, but IMO a small oven will give consistent heat & better results. 



  10. JRT, no oven with vinyl paints, it's highly flammable. I used it for many years and IMO, it's not as durable as powder coat, but would be my second choice for painting jigs or barbells. 


    Most powders that I use cure at 400 degrees F, so that's what I have my oven set. ( I use a thermometer to check it.)  It depends on the powder used and the sellers will usually provide information for what temps are recommended. 

  11. I use flat black and red from HF, but have not used their yellow. I don't know if the acetone will affect them. I use about a dozen different colors that I get from various sources, and don't recall specifically which the acetone melted. 


    One source I use, is called Powder By The Pound, and they will sell a half pound. A friend of mine, who also makes his own jigs, told me about them. The yellow that I use is a basic yellow, and I got it from them. They have a bunch of colors to choose from at various price points. If you paint a lot of jigs, they're worth looking into. 


    The HF powder is less costly, but if the color isn't what you want, then perhaps, it's time to find another source, even if you pay a little more for it.  I get more powder for about the same price as what's in those little jars that are sold for painting jigs. So, no brainer for me! 

  12. I powder coat barbells, but I'm using an oven to heat them. Flames are too hot for such small pieces of lead. I have a bunch of scrap wire, as I save any wire I get, for tying flies, and some of it I use to make hangers for various items when I'm powder coating them. 


    Jigs, of course can be hung in an oven by the hook, but not so with barbells. I wrap a piece of stout wire at the mid section, form a hook & hang them just like hanging jigs. 


    There's a tiny un-coated area, but who care's, that gets covered with tying thread anyway. 


    One of my projects I want to do this year is a mold for pouring barbells in a few sizes. 

  13. I don't get too picky about color tones, so if it was me, I would either fish them or offer them to someone who would, and tie new ones rather than strip a perfectly good jig.


    I pour a lot of jigs & powder paint all that I intend to tie, and have only fixed some nicks and chips, by reheating & dipping, but have not tried if with older, well used jigs. 


    As long as the original paint is powder coat, it should be doable I would think.


    I have found quite by accident, that some powder paints, even after curing will dissolve in acetone. Perhaps stripping them with acetone might be a viable option & then repainting. 

  14. It's been some years now, but I got into a discussion here about using multiple fly rigs with fly gear, something that I had struggled with, and got some excellent advice about how to properly set them up. 


    So, teasers are basically the same thing, just cast with spin or casting tackle & with some type of lure. 


    When I use teasers now it's usually with a bucktail jig, spoon or popper. I don't fish them much now with plugs, as I'm either fishing in the lake for Stripers or bass, or at the coast for other fish. Big plugs are not used here by many folks, if any. 


    Seatrout like teasers, and so do Redfish, but I haven't really caught many of them yet on teasers. Flounders love them! 


    I tie all kinds of flies, but keep the teasers simple, cheap and expendable.

    Here's some that I tied last year. All on 4/0 Eagle Claw 254 tinned hooks. 

    I like playing with the colors, even though I know it's not necessary! :)





  15. Gartside was an interesting fellow & certainly a talented tyer. He was a master at doing it on the cheap. I mean that as high praise too, he seemed to know how to make the most of his resources. 


    Suave, thanks for the additional information. IMO, I don't think it matters a lot what under body material is used for Gurglers. Probably more just a personal choice than making them more productive. They work. 

  16. Are you using them for bass or Stripers?  I like the Owner Beast hook, and I pour the lead on them myself. Gamakatsu used to make some too that they called Monster Wide Gaps, or something similar. Not sure if they still do or not. For the various fluke sizes, that Owner Beast is made up to a 12/0. I use Zoom, but also have other fluke, some that I've gotten from small plastics guys. I think I've been using the 8/0 size for Super Flukes. 


    Otherwise, I also use jig heads, all of which I pour myself.  

  17. 3 hours ago, Delta17 said:

    I see the Gurgler well represented. I seem to recall hearing Jack Gartside one night saying that he used Chick-a-bou for the under body. Chicken Butt feathers. Am I mis-remembering? He had a number of flies he was tying at the time using a ,then, under utilized, and cheap, material.


    I saw him in Middleborough at a TU meeting, I think....might have been 25 years ago though...yikes...He was still driving the cab I believe.

    I think a lot of folks now use the various synthetic materials, but yes the original was tied with hackle. I wasn't aware it was Chick-a -bou that he used, so thanks for passing that along. The first ones I tied I used saddle or neck hackle, and eventually went to Estaz. I liked how it looked and really no other reason. 


    BTW, the original also had a tail of bucktail, and I tie some like that, but also like the hackle tails. Both catch. 

  18. HT, thanks! I have had the Eyelash material in my hands. Checked it out while out in CA, but didn't buy it. It's a longer fiber than Estaz Grande. More like "Hackle Flash" sold by Cascade Crest. I have not as yet seen the other material, but based on the size of most yarn skeins, it's probably not as long as the Eye Lash yarn, but longer than Estaz. I plan on getting some of each, so will let you know. 


    BTW, I'm already a customer & subscriber of Factory Direct Crafts, but wasn't aware of that material, so thank you, I'll check it out. :theman:

  19. HT, I have been using Estaz, or Cactus Chenille, but have seen some pics of Gurglers where others are using similar craft store materials. Only way to find out if you'll like using it, is try it. 


    Yes, Estaz is really getting costly. I have a good bit of it, bought when I could find it on sale, but would consider a less costly alternative if I found it. 


    Actually, your comments have my mind working, I had seen some yarn online the other day, that's similar to Estaz. What I saw was Red Heart brand, and is called Scrubby Sparkle yarn. I had seen a different but similar yarn and that's what I was looking for, so apparently there are at least two similar products. I saw the Red Heart yarn at Joann Fabrics, and had seen the other product in Hobby Lobby or Michaels. A lot more material in a skein of yarn than what's sold as Estaz and about the same price. 

  20. For the most part, poppers & gurglers are what I use. I vary the sizes. Will make up some sliders, but get more success with the others.


    I generally agree with bonefishdick, the actual patterns aren't often important. Use any that you like, and they'll all catch fish. 











  21. My parents drank Maxwell House for a lot of years, and I have too, but prefer other coffee's now. Not a thing wrong with Maxwell House. If my wife can't get DD when she's shopping, that's what she buys because she knows I'll drink it. I generally only drink one large cup of coffee each day when at home, and when out may drink two, especially when driving. A pound of coffee lasts a good bit longer around my house, so I want a coffee that I really like.


    I bought the first Black Rifle because they are a veteran owned company, and wanted to try it. Even though it's priced a little higher than other coffee's I usually buy, I like the flavor very much, so will continue to buy it. Same as the Kona that I mentioned, but I really haven't looked for a source to get it here. Last I had of it, I bought while in HI, and my son was stationed there while in the Navy and he would get it & ship it to me.