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About tidewaterfly

  • Rank
    1,000 Post Club!
  • Birthday 09/25/1955


  • About Me:
    I'm old. Been fishing for over 50 years. I'm an obsessed lure maker & fly tier.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    fishing, fly fishing, fly tying, lure making, hunting, trapping, gardening & my grandkids
  • What I do for a living:
    Tackle maker, fly tyer & tinkerer!

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Santee Cooper Lakes area, SC. Formerly MD, Chesapeake Bay Country!

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  1. It's done here in SC near where I live. They call it controlled burns, but I never see anyone actually controlling anything, except they may put out signs on the roadways that say "Smoke Ahead" or "Dense Smoke". There's a lot of pine forests here, grown for the timber, and I guess the burning works. It burns off the under growth, and doesn't seem to be harming the tree's, so there's less chance of big forest fires. I'm sure it's a cost thing too, as going in with machinery to cut the undergrowth would cost more. They use machinery to clear areas around many of the forests, I guess as fire breaks. Timber is big business down here & they seem to know what they're doing.
  2. Like The TideRunner, I've poured them for many years and never found those that I bought to be any better than what I made. The biggest issue I see with many of the store bought types is the hooks are not sharp. So, of course I use different hooks. I don't get real fancy with paint schemes, as much of that is for the angler. I like the tail spinner type lures too, and the bladed jig types ( chatterbait), but make them myself. I don't feel I'm missing anything because of it.
  3. I bought a pair of Bulldog cutters, based on recommendations from several folks on a bass fishing site that I frequent. So far they've been great, but I haven't used them in saltwater conditions. They make a nice clean cut in braid, and I've cut 15 to 80 lb test with them. For around $15 with the shipping, they've been worthwhile.
  4. I just read that one shop near Charleston SC has closed up, and a couple more have been bought & are closing two locations. It is a shame, but from what I saw of the one shop, they were more into high end clothing and tackle than they were basic fly fishing/tying products and frankly, I could get most things they had that I used at better pricing by buying online. It's a tough business to be in, with a limited customer base, and if a business limits their customer base even more with only carrying products that fit the higher end of the price range, then they're going to have a hard time surviving. Unfortunately, most shops probably don't have the resources they need to cover a wider range of potential customers. I'm all for supporting a local shop, but I also can't be foolish with my resources either.
  5. I pour the bigger jigs with a Hot Pot II electric ladle which will hold about 4 pounds of lead. IMO, a ladle is what you want for bigger jigs anyway. I also have a bottom pour pot and it's great for small jigs, but doesn't pour the big stuff very well, not enough flow volume. I've heard of others drilling out the spigot to get more flow, but I'll stick with the Hot Pot II. I sometimes get some flash with some molds, and clean it up with a knife. Makes them look a bit better, and less to deal with as far as adding plastics or tying on them. You can use a primer, but for what you intend, it won't make the paint last any longer. There are "etching" types of enamels and I think both Rustoleum and Krylon have such a paint. It's supposed to bond to the metal better. One thing about enamels when used with plastic baits. The baits tend to soften the paint, since the plastic is a petroleum based material. That's why powder coat paints or vinyl paints last longer on some jigs, the plastic doesn't eat the paint.
  6. I was asked by a friend who lives in south FL to make some spinnerbaits that will imitate Gold Shiners. He referenced a Booyah color that he liked, so I made them for him. The two togegther are 1/2 oz.and molded on an Owner 5/0 hook. Powder painted, with a tied skirt. The other is 1 oz., also with an Owner 5/0 hook.
  7. I often paint eyes on jigs with enamels over powder paints. It should not be a problem. The enamel doesn't have the same durability, but the jigs are going to get banged up anyway. With enamel, it works, but again doesn't hold up like powder paints or vinyl paints, but again if you'll lose them anyway, it's a cheap way to paint them. When I used enamel to paint jigs, which has now been many years, I got cheap hobby brushes to use, and got a better coat than dipping. Was a little slower process, but the end result was better and less mess wit paint dripping. If you powder coat jigs, and use an oven to heat them & cure the paint, you can heat up the white and sprinkle a darker powder over the heated jig to get a dark back. I've tried with by dipping a cheap, small paint brush in the powder & tapping it over the jig, but got too many brush bristles in the powder & on the jig. Another way is get a cheap pepper shaker, and put a piece of fiberglass window screen in the cap to act as a filter and shake it over the heated jig. This has worked well for me, and I do it over a piece of parchment paper so I can recover some of the excess powder & reuse it. I know guys who use other means to heat their jigs, but IMO a small oven will give consistent heat & better results.
  8. JRT, no oven with vinyl paints, it's highly flammable. I used it for many years and IMO, it's not as durable as powder coat, but would be my second choice for painting jigs or barbells. Most powders that I use cure at 400 degrees F, so that's what I have my oven set. ( I use a thermometer to check it.) It depends on the powder used and the sellers will usually provide information for what temps are recommended.
  9. I use flat black and red from HF, but have not used their yellow. I don't know if the acetone will affect them. I use about a dozen different colors that I get from various sources, and don't recall specifically which the acetone melted. One source I use, is called Powder By The Pound, and they will sell a half pound. A friend of mine, who also makes his own jigs, told me about them. The yellow that I use is a basic yellow, and I got it from them. They have a bunch of colors to choose from at various price points. If you paint a lot of jigs, they're worth looking into. The HF powder is less costly, but if the color isn't what you want, then perhaps, it's time to find another source, even if you pay a little more for it. I get more powder for about the same price as what's in those little jars that are sold for painting jigs. So, no brainer for me!
  10. I powder coat barbells, but I'm using an oven to heat them. Flames are too hot for such small pieces of lead. I have a bunch of scrap wire, as I save any wire I get, for tying flies, and some of it I use to make hangers for various items when I'm powder coating them. Jigs, of course can be hung in an oven by the hook, but not so with barbells. I wrap a piece of stout wire at the mid section, form a hook & hang them just like hanging jigs. There's a tiny un-coated area, but who care's, that gets covered with tying thread anyway. One of my projects I want to do this year is a mold for pouring barbells in a few sizes.
  11. I don't get too picky about color tones, so if it was me, I would either fish them or offer them to someone who would, and tie new ones rather than strip a perfectly good jig. I pour a lot of jigs & powder paint all that I intend to tie, and have only fixed some nicks and chips, by reheating & dipping, but have not tried if with older, well used jigs. As long as the original paint is powder coat, it should be doable I would think. I have found quite by accident, that some powder paints, even after curing will dissolve in acetone. Perhaps stripping them with acetone might be a viable option & then repainting.
  12. It's been some years now, but I got into a discussion here about using multiple fly rigs with fly gear, something that I had struggled with, and got some excellent advice about how to properly set them up. So, teasers are basically the same thing, just cast with spin or casting tackle & with some type of lure. When I use teasers now it's usually with a bucktail jig, spoon or popper. I don't fish them much now with plugs, as I'm either fishing in the lake for Stripers or bass, or at the coast for other fish. Big plugs are not used here by many folks, if any. Seatrout like teasers, and so do Redfish, but I haven't really caught many of them yet on teasers. Flounders love them! I tie all kinds of flies, but keep the teasers simple, cheap and expendable. Here's some that I tied last year. All on 4/0 Eagle Claw 254 tinned hooks. I like playing with the colors, even though I know it's not necessary!
  13. Gartside was an interesting fellow & certainly a talented tyer. He was a master at doing it on the cheap. I mean that as high praise too, he seemed to know how to make the most of his resources. Suave, thanks for the additional information. IMO, I don't think it matters a lot what under body material is used for Gurglers. Probably more just a personal choice than making them more productive. They work.
  14. Are you using them for bass or Stripers? I like the Owner Beast hook, and I pour the lead on them myself. Gamakatsu used to make some too that they called Monster Wide Gaps, or something similar. Not sure if they still do or not. For the various fluke sizes, that Owner Beast is made up to a 12/0. I use Zoom, but also have other fluke, some that I've gotten from small plastics guys. I think I've been using the 8/0 size for Super Flukes. Otherwise, I also use jig heads, all of which I pour myself.
  15. I think a lot of folks now use the various synthetic materials, but yes the original was tied with hackle. I wasn't aware it was Chick-a -bou that he used, so thanks for passing that along. The first ones I tied I used saddle or neck hackle, and eventually went to Estaz. I liked how it looked and really no other reason. BTW, the original also had a tail of bucktail, and I tie some like that, but also like the hackle tails. Both catch.