tidewaterfly

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About tidewaterfly

  • Rank
    1,000 Post Club!
  • Birthday 09/25/1955

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  • About Me:
    I'm old. Been fishing for over 50 years. I'm an obsessed lure maker & fly tier.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    fishing, fly fishing, fly tying, lure making, hunting, trapping, gardening & my grandkids
  • What I do for a living:
    Tackle maker, fly tyer & tinkerer!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Santee Cooper Lakes area, SC. Formerly MD, Chesapeake Bay Country!

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  1. Bass Pro Shops. One of their Offshore Angler branded lures. I've had this one for several years.
  2. This is nothing new with that bunch. They are about working on folks emotions so that they contribute money to their "cause". They're scammers and con artists, nothing more! They are a registered non profit, so they're tax records are public. Look them up. They spend very little on actual animal welfare. Everything else goes to the admin and operating costs, AND to their various campaigns to collect more MONEY! They bring in millions, and the founders live a life on comfort. Scammers and con artists, nothing more! BTW, they don't get involved directly with eco terrorism, but it's been alleged that they fund them. Just another way to get attention, and additional funding from folks who think they're contributing to a good cause. Any publicity to them is good publicity because folks will still give them money. They count on people being stupid.
  3. Chris, I have a couple of molds for pouring those weighted hooks too. I've used the various name brands, really like the Owners. That Beast hook that Owner has is excellent! They can all be good depending on the plastic you like and keep them sharp. I have also been using some Trokar hooks, which is becoming my preferred hook for that type of rig, but they are expensive. Not something that I would want to lose a lot of. However, I've been buying the Owner screw locks for them, and I really like the centering pin that they have. Makes rigging very easy and solid! .
  4. I also pour the wobble heads, and they're going to hang too in that type of bottom. They're great over mud or sand, and small gravel. Same with stand-up jigs. I like to use those styles with curltail grubs, and either won't hang if you can keep them just above the bottom, but you know that's not always possible. If it were, you would lose a lot less. The stand up style is made to be in contact with the bottom, so not the best for the bottom you're fishing. I have only played with tin & made a few spoons. It's about 2/3 the density of lead, so you need a bigger profile to get the same weight. Conversely, tungsten is much more dense, so a smaller profile, but for that type of bottom, it's the shape that is the problem. As you say, they get wedged. Tin & tungsten both are going to cost more and you'll still lose some of them.
  5. Chris, I've been pouring my own for a long time now, several styles, and frankly it doesn't matter what you use for that type of bottom, they'll all hang up some. As you say, they get wedged, not hooked. The issue is with angles, and fishing from shore will be worse than from a boat. At least from a boat you can fish more vertical and lessen the hang ups. I used to fish in both the Susquehanna River & Potomac River in MD, both having bottoms like that and it always resulted in lost jigs. I've tried every style that I know. Wire snag guards can help some with hooks getting snagged, but won't prevent that wedging problem. Current and wind can also compound the problem because it makes staying in contact & control of the jig more difficult and once it's in a crack or crevice, it's hung. . I wish I could tell you to use X style jig & it will solve your problem, but don't believe such a jig head exists. Those rock bottoms, particularly when they have ledges are one of the worse types for losing jigs, yet one of the most productive for fishing. I used a float in that type of water, and got less hang ups, but it changes the presentation. I agree with LL, cheap round heads in bulk, and be prepared to lose them is often the best approach. It's frustrating that's for sure. BTW, I spent a lot of time fly fishing in those rivers too, and got a lot less hang ups. Used floating lines with weighted flies that had snag guards. They slide over the rocks much better than a jig, but would still lose some. I know that Salmon & Steelhead guys use pencil type weights in a drop shot fashion with unweighted flies and floating jigs. That might be worth trying, but won't be the same presentation. Yes, weighted swimbait/worm hooks might work well, but you're still going to lose some of them. I pour them too, but where I fish, don't have that type of bottom.
  6. I would say that like most places, access is best from a watercraft, but there are places that can be accessed from the roadways. I've fished at Pawley's Island, and have been told that there is access within Huntington State Park. If you check out Google Earth, it appears that there should be plenty of access, but whether or not they're worth fishing I can't say, I just have not had the opportunity to check out a lot of places.
  7. Long time member here, flytyingguy, Ron Powell, was working in the fly shop at Bass Pro in Myrtle Beach last time I talked with him. Ron's been fishing down here for a lot of years, so he would probably be someone who can give you some advice and info. Most other folks that I've had any contact with here who fly fishes, generally fish from a boat or wade the grass flats. Typically, any crab, shrimp or baitfish type fly could do well, but they tend to be on the smaller size, like size 6 to 2. Black & purple is a popular color combo. I've also been told to limit the flash unless the waters are muddied some. I've fished some along the coast, mostly from a Gheenoe, but never tried the surf with fly gear. Any that I have done has been in the backwaters and creeks. From what I've observed you might find some fish inside some of inlets on fly tackle.
  8. Quantum has been making a Blue Runner version for several years. I have two, that I had bought maybe 6 years ago, and have no complaints. I bought them for family to use when we went to the coast on vacation. Good reels for that type of occasional use, and yes, it's a cheap reel, not something that you would want to give hard, many days use. At least not if you want it to last any length of time. Those I have have only been used for soaking bait, and can't say they had to handle anything of any size. I know we caught a few Black Drum on one trip, that were maybe 10 lbs, but can't be sure they were caught using those reels.
  9. OK, that's plenty stout then! The yak moving so much doesn't help that's for sure. I don't use leaders at all, and use 50 or 65 lb hi vis yellow braid. But, I'm fishing from a Gheenoe or a 16' jon boat and even though they move some, not like a yak might. I'm sure you'll figure it out eventually.
  10. Matt, what type of rod, line & jig are you using? Sounds like either your hooks are not sharp, and thus not penetrating, or your rod & line setup is not heavy enough to get a good hook set.
  11. mkus, have you used any of these lines for 5 years or more? I have one cheap Chinese made line on a 4 wt that I use for panfish. It's been a decent line, and I've had it now about 2 years. It's on a very cheap Shakespeare rod, which has been a good rod, but I don't have a lot invested. I have other, name brand lines for my heavier weight rods, that I've been using for 10 years or more, and they still perform as I need, and so far have not shown any signs of falling apart. When I'm paying $50 or more for a line, I expect two things from it. One being, that it does what I want, and the other that I get at minimum 5 years of use out of it. Some of the lines that I have, ( Cortland, SA, Rio & Orvis) I bought on sale or clearance so paid less than retail. If these lines hold up for at least 5 years, then they certainly would be worth trying. However, I wouldn't want to have to replace them every year or two. Might as well buy a name brand then, and pay the higher price, because I know they'll meet my criteria. I can also usually find a sale, or a last years model at reduced price. Still paying more than those Chinese lines, but in the long run a better investment. So, have they held up for a minimum of 5 years?
  12. Well, we do, and the term bucktail should really be deertail since the hair from both genders are used. I don't have a problem with that, just that a jig shouldn't be called a "bucktail" when it's not tied with the hair. I see folks calling them bucktails when tied with synthetic hairs too and that's not even close to the same thing.
  13. I detest the fact that many folks call all manner of jigs a bucktail, that aren't tied with bucktail hair. It's what makes it a bucktail jig, and not something else. Sure, not all jigs are tied with bucktail hair & plenty of folks have been catching fish on other types of jigs for a lot of years. This isn't anything new.
  14. Oh, I understand that perfectly! I don't tie classic salmon patterns, but have been tying a very long time and have not always been satisfied with what's commercially available in tying materials. I tie a lot of hair jigs too for bass, and either a basic brown or black are the colors most readily available. That's why I dye that rusty red brown, as it's a color I've had more success with fishing than basic brown. Same with shades of olive. Thanks for your comment!
  15. I certainly agree, but not all fishing for everyone will have the same needs. As I mentioned previously, one of the primary factors for folks is cost. Not everyone is willing or has the means to pay for the "better" hooks. There's nothing wrong with using some of the other hooks mentioned. I've been fly fishing for over 50 years as I'm sure some others here have as well. We saw the progression of hook types & brands. I never really had any problems with Mustad or Eagle Claw hooks, but most fish that I caught, such as Stripers were not huge. Largest I caught on a fly was 30", most well under that. The older types of hook caught many fish. Those hooks were not perfect, but IMO, none are. Those older hooks had to be sharpened, and that was a regular part of fishing. Mustad hooks used to be made in Norway, perhaps some still are, but as I understand, they have a factory in China now that makes most of their "newer" type hooks. Eagle Claw are still made in Denver, but environmental laws limit what they can do with some sharpening processes that are used in other countries. Consistency can be a problem for sure. I would expect any hook maker to have some quality control problems at times due to the volume that they produce. I've never had a hook fail because of a fish. I have had them fail, but most could be explained. I've had points broken, and that's been primarily due to them hitting something hard & solid. I've had them bend, even on a few fish, and as flyfishvt's chart shows, that might be for various reasons. I've only read, not actually tested, that bending is usually the result of how the hook is positioned, and often due to poor penetration, not because of the quality of the hook. It's a leverage and sharpness issue. His testing is flawed a bit, because angles when fishing would be different. Rarely would the line of pull be 90 degree's to the hook shank, yet hooks do get bent. Ideally, the bend of the hook is where the stress should be applied, because that's how a hook holds when properly seated in a fishes mouth. Doesn't always happen unfortunately. Another reason for bending is the hook is not adequate for the application. We can't predict how big a fish might be that grabs our fly, and sometimes the hook will be too light. Wire can only be so strong. This has been an excellent discussion, with plenty of good suggestions. Price however, does not determine whether a hook will be suitable for a given purpose. All of the major brands make "good" hooks, but it's left up to the user to determine if any specific hook is right for their use, particularly us fly flingers. As I and others have mentioned, some very good hooks are not sold as "fly" hooks. So, it never hurts to try & compare if you can afford to do so and determine what you feel is best for your fishing. Even after all these years of fly fishing & tying, I try "new" hooks and styles that I see, just to find out if they are "better" or at least another alternative to what I've been using and it also never hurts to have multiple options.