tidewaterfly

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About tidewaterfly

  • Rank
    1,000 Post Club!
  • Birthday 09/25/1955

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  • About Me:
    I'm old. Been fishing for over 50 years. I'm an obsessed lure maker & fly tier.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    fishing, fly fishing, fly tying, lure making, hunting, trapping, gardening & my grandkids
  • What I do for a living:
    Tackle maker, fly tyer & tinkerer!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Santee Cooper Lakes area, SC. Formerly MD, Chesapeake Bay Country!

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  1. I agree with Mike Oliver too, most of the larger hooks used for saltwater are not sold barbless, so the barbs need to be mashed down, filed or ground off. That's a choice some agree with, but not others. I've also bought some hooks, house brands from Allen Fly Fishing, and Risen Fly, and have been very happy with them. However, so far have not hooked anything of a size to really test them. Otherwise, they're good hooks at a reasonable price.
  2. Some very good advice from Sandflea. Generally, folks who tie will select hooks for two primary reasons, one being the cost, and the other for specific need. That means some who regularly hook up with fish large enough to bend or break many hooks, will be looking for a hook to handle those bigger fish, regardless of price. Mustad has been the standard for many years, because for the most part they were the only hook maker that made hooks for fly tying. They have 3407, 34007 or equivalent in their Signature Series. I like their Big Gun series, which are not sold as fly hooks. Eagle Claw has some decent hooks, although not particularly sharp, except for their Trokar line, which are very expensive, and not specifically marketed for flies. EC's 354, 254 and 253 hooks have all been used for saltwater flies. Gamakatsu & Owner both produce some very good hooks, not all being fly specific, that folks do use because of strength, and sharpness. Here again, depends on what you're willing to pay. I like the Owner AKI series and Gamkatsu SC15, SL45, SL12S Big Game, and SP11-3L3H. There are others from both brands that are used. VMC produces some good hooks, but except for their Siwash hooks, & trebles. are probably not widely used for flies. They have a 7120 Pin Head hook and a 9255 O'Shaughnessy hook that I use. There are other hooks and brands too. Not all produce hook that are sold as fly hooks specifically, but may be used for flies. Inline hooks, intended to replace trebles could possibly be used, but may not be the best choice for some types of fly types. The extra large hook eye on them should not present a big problem.
  3. Yes, for holding better on sand, and they work well on a mud bottom. Not a good choice where it's rocky, as they snag easily. I have a mold to pour them.
  4. I've caught them on flies when I was a much younger fellow, back in the late 70's thru the 90's, at some places along the marshes on the Eastern shore side of the Chesapeake Bay in MD. Back then I had a fiberglass 8 wt. They'll take most any fly that a Striper will take, but generally smaller flies, in the 3" to 4" length range are normal. Flies don't have to be complex, in fact one old type was called a Seatrout Special. I think I first saw it in a fly tying book written by Poul Jorgensen back in the 70's. As BrainBM has said, bright colors are often used, but they'll respond to a variety of colors or combinations. I used orange and brown often, and red & white or red & yellow were popular. Seaducers were another style that I used too. Those in my profile pic were tied for targeting them here in SC. I see reports often of them being caught here in coastal SC, but have yet to fish for them. Here are some examples of the Seatrout Special..
  5. Rattle Traps, and some of the other lipless cranks can be very productive at times. Each has a different sound and vibration. I've got a bunch of the Rat L Traps, from the Tiny sizes up to the largest. I've used the 3/4 & 1 ounce sizes a lot for Chesapeake Bay Stripers when I lived in MD. Mostly those with the chrome finishes. They make them with a blue, black, chartreuse &, a pink back, and I've caught on all of them. The smaller sizes work well for bass, but are not a lure that I threw a lot. Where I fished most, which was shallow, a square bill crank was a better choice because of all the snags. But, those lipless lures can produce. I mentioned the Tiny Traps, which are something that I liked using in the early spring for Perch & Crappies, and caught plenty of bass on them, although most were small. Like a jig, it's a type of lure you have to spend time using, and not one that fits all conditions.
  6. Thanks Local66! I use some of the AKI hooks too. When I've used black nickel hooks in the salt, Gamakatsu & Mustad Ultra Points have held up the best. Have used some VMC's too with good results, but they all rust eventually. When it's a concern for me, I go to the older styles with tinned finishes, which usually rust at the points because they have to be touched up. I'll use some stainless too, but not as much for the reasons you've stated. I don't get to the coast now often enough to worry about it a lot anyway, and not hooking anything real large when I do. I was just wondering about those Trokars. I like them, even for the extra cost, just not sure I want to sacrifice them to the salt because of the cost.
  7. I was afraid you might say that! I agree that they're an excellent hook for penetration, and plenty strong. They have held up fine in freshwater, at least no worse than anything else I've used. I guess I'll reserve them for lake fishing. Thanks for the response!
  8. Excellent post! I agree, however, "slow" is always a matter of comparison & perspective. I know that I had to learn to slow down when fishing jigs, compared to tossing spinnerbaits or spinners, crankbaits or a buzzbait. Also had to let the jig fall, instead of trying to make it do something until it hit the bottom, or a bass grabbed it. I've seen a few folks pitch a jig & pull it out so fast, there's no way a bass had time to grab it. So, IMO, the best approach is to vary the "speed" and slow down compared to these other reaction type lures. I've crawled them too, painstaking slow, and not my favorite way to fish a jig, but as you say, when a cold front, or colder water temps put the bite off, sometimes that's what has to be done. One other note, although Ebbtide231 touched on it, is accurate casting/pitching or flipping. In some conditions, bass will hold very tight to structures or cover. I know I've had times when a jig placed in tight would get bit, but even 6" out wouldn't get touched. So, it's not just a matter of getting it close sometimes, it sometimes has to be pinpoint accurate. ccb, for me, it's always going to depend on the situation, and conditions that will dictate what to try next. I'm not a tournament angler so have no pressure to be catching, so sometimes my mood tells me what to try, and that's often something that I enjoy fishing with, like a popper or spook, but otherwise, I try to let whatever else is going on tell me what to use next. That too can still be a jig, maybe a different type, like a swim jig. I'm not opposed to trying anything at any time. One time I was fishing from shore at a bridge that crossed a small river that I had fished often by boat. I had a few rods with me, and was tossing different lures. I caught a few small bass and some panfish, on one side of the bridge, on spinnerbaits, then gave the other side a try. I noticed some movement & commotion along a grass edge about 40 ft from me, so choose to try an ultra light rod, and toss a 3" Pin's Minnow past that grass line and see what happened. I caught several decent bass on that tiny lure, all by casting along that shallow grass line. Not something that I would have probably thought to do, and probably a more normal size bass lure would have been too heavy. That day I learned something by just going with a gut feeling. The best bass that day was around 3 1/2 lbs, and over the years, there was times that in that river, ultra light was a better choice than typical bass gear. My theory is that the river was small and fairly shallow, average 4' to 5' at the deepest, and got pounded hard at times by local bass clubs, and the ultra light stuff didn't alarm them like the bigger, heaver lures. I could be wrong, but it certainly worked well sometimes.
  9. Beautiful fly! How do you like those Trokar hooks? How are they holding up in the salt? Don't see Trokar hooks mentioned much for tying flies. I had bought some spinnerbait hooks for making spinnerbaits, and they are similar to that TK12. I've tied a few flies on them, but not being near the salt, had me wondering how well they might hold up. They do a fine job in the lake!
  10. black, white, chartreuse
  11. I've caught all manner of fish species on surface lures of various colors, regardless of the light, and as has been said, other factors are more important than color. If you go with white or black, it won't usually matter. As for poppers, consider the wave action, chop, wind conditions more so than the clouds unless you're throwing to visible fish. I also like to have a spook or "Sammy" type lure for a walk the dog type action. They sometimes get more attention than a popper.
  12. I lived across the bay in AA Co most of my life & never went to Terrapin Park. The post title says State park, but it's in fact a Queen Anne County Park, not state. Most fishing that I did was on the Eastern Shore side of the bay, and I had fished & launched my boat at some Q A Co. parks in the past, and those required parking permits. There are fines if you get caught not having the permit. I would suspect, fines might apply if you get caught fishing where they have no fishing signs too.
  13. Regs vary from state to state & may even in specific bodies of water. If you buy a fishing license in NJ, you should get a booklet that has the regs in it, or at least a condensed version. They may also have it posted on a website. When in doubt, contact the DNR or whatever agency handles fishery reg enforcement and ask them. C & R may be required in some places, but probably there's plenty of waters that don't. Just be sure you also know the creel limits & possession limits. There are some bodies of water here in SC that have consumption advisories too. Some fish can have various chemicals and other harmful substances in their bodies, so take heed of any that may be mentioned for your waters.
  14. About 99% of any trout fishing that I've done has been with fly gear, and have used mono type leader & tippet materials. Otherwise, have used Ande or Silver Thread on some ultra light spin gear and see no need for braid on such a set up. However, I have used 15 lb braid on a float n fly outfit for bass & panfishing, (8'6" spin rod) and although it worked well, saw no advantage to it over using the mono type lines, so gave up using the braid for that purpose. Braid on heavier tackle makes a lot more sense to me. Now, on my fly gear and some other tackle, I use Yozuri Hybrid and it's worked well, especially for bass or targeting other larger fish. I use 4 lb on some fly gear as tippet material for panfishing & trout, and prefer it over the other mono lines I've used, but I still like the Ande & Silver Thread on a spinning reel. BTW, trout are not all that smart either.
  15. I also never use a trailer hook for jigs. Have not ever seen it to be necessary. I see a trailer hook as a potential problem with snagging, as most places I have fished for bass have plenty of things that can be snagged. I've had bass grab a jig & not get the hook in their mouth solidly, but most of the time that's not an issue. I rarely have used trailer hooks on spinnerbaits either, even though I do have them in my tackle bag. Again, never saw it as necessary. Occasionally, I have used them on buzzbaits. On fly fishing forums that I frequent, a lot of folks are big on articulated flies now for bass with two hooks in the fly. I've tied articulated flies too for them, but only use a single hook, and don't feel it's a problem when targeting bass. I very much think that a lot of fly flingers use flies that may be too small, not that bass can't be caught on them, but when I set the hook, with large flies tied on 1/0 to 5/0 size hooks, I don't miss a lot of them and usually it's a solid hook up, even when the fly may be 6" long or longer. I think that the smaller fly is often pulled out of their mouth too easily without the point of the hook contacting anything solid.