sms

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About sms

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  1. Mako is not gone I believe. Thou no-one from Charlton family in the business anymore I think.
  2. Where/which is the loop rolling? But as I said, bad example. I think I could make a vid of line still going after complete unrolling. Happens so often with short heavy heads, especially with dense ones.
  3. The loop is gone at about 1:37. It reoccurs couple of times thou afterwards. As said, not the best example. With short fast shooting heards (ie SA DWE 700gr or 850gr head), they can roll through so that there is no line to roll into the loop and they still continue quite far if cast high with large velocity. Those lines are black so I guess would be hard to video.
  4. Absolutely not. Very clear with very fast sinking heads for example. If the unrolling stops, it usually means that the leader will land in a pile or point almost fully backwards. Not the best example, but you can see the loop collapsing, but the line continues forward:
  5. I always wear sunglasses when fishing or training fly casting. When it gets so dark that the yellow lenses do not work anymore I quit. But, if I would fish ie trout in the dark, I would put my clear safety glasses on (I have bought a pair just for this reason as a precaution as if I don't have them and the occasion occurs, there is probably no shop near and/or open to get a pair).
  6. Sailfish jump so much that they tire themselves. Angry tuna are different. Especially if they are big. And all fish are individuals, some fight harder than others.
  7. For that light stuff and light fighting fish I would probably go with Vision Merisuola rod and Nautilus CCF-X2 with modified drag (to get rid of that ridiculous infinityadjustment). For fish more fight into them and heavier gear I would go with my hybrid rod and Mako reel.
  8. Where would you be targeting them? We have fished for them in Europe. I have done 7 trips in total. Here they come sometimes very close to the shore. The downside is that the weather can be tricky and also the fish tend to eat very small stuff -> hard to get bites. Here are some topics with photos & vids from 2019, 2018 and 2016. Also additional vid from our first trip from 2015 below.
  9. I always try to keep it simple. I have never had tuna chafe throught the tippet/leader. I use straight stuff mostly. If the tuna are on snot bait and eye balling everything hard before taking, I may then really have tippet of thinnes stuff and I keep that shorter than the tuna I recon I can hook up to. That’s because I do not want the thin stuff to see the tail. The other option would be going with short leader, bit the picky ones that require thin stuff would not ear then (either). I don’t do Igfa stuff since I want to release the fish as soon as possible. And I want to keep the time short in order not to wear myself out, but be fresh and keep having the opportunity to hook another one.
  10. I use 50lb gsp backing and 35, 50, 70lb core fly lines. Leaders I use are 40-70lb. To me it doesn’t matter what the fly line is from the above. Last autumn 50lb leader broke when 35lb fly line wrapped around the stripping guide after a take. If fishing albies in shark infested waters I tend to use low (40-50lb) bs stuff to protect my fly lines. Fishing for BFT in shark free waters I use the thickest the fish approve to minimize the risk of abrasion to cut the line mid fight.
  11. Line stiffness or limpness has nothing to do with tailing loops. Tailing loop is a consequence of a casting fault (thus caused by the caster). Actually I have found that the more limp the line is from outside the rod tip, the better it casts. But it also wears fast. And shooting is a nightmare. So, a limp shooting head is great, but full line is not. A long head and/or running line that is really soft is not nice to haul.
  12. Frankenlines are great! Many of my fishing lines are such. And all of my competition spey lines that I use are such. When starting with Frankenlines, it is good to use lines that would otherwise be binned or so cheap that it doesn’t matter. Later when you know what you want, you can make aimed shots with new lines too.
  13. I’m a rightie. Always rod in right and reeling with left. It is a sad sight when I try to reel fast with right. Absolutely no control. Left - no problem: faster, no wobble etc. Fighting a big tuna (tuna are my favourite) is so much about lifting the fish with high drag setting that my right arm is much better for that. Especially so when I used stiffer butted rods in the past, which meant high strain on my fingers and arm also that my having the stronger arm in use was definately an advantage. Nowadays I can use at least the same settings with much more comfort and I am in charge, not just holding on for much of the time. Anyway, there is no Universal right answer. Whatever works for you is the right one for you.
  14. Common problems for a tailing loop are: - Not having long enough a pause in between casts (line does not straighten enough before forced to go the other direction) - ”hitting” the power too early in the cast (you should ”hit” very late phase on the stroke/rotation. So, start smooth and easy, increase force towards the end of the stroke - hitting it too much/using too much force overall If you want to get better, a lesson from a good instructor is the fastest way and most likely to get you results. But, you can do it by yourself too. Take the fly off and replace it with piece of yarn. You don’t want to get punished in the trial and error. Do simple pick up and lay down casts with different lengths of line. Try to use very little force (power). Learn to control your loops (how using different amounts of force, different stroke lengths, pause between forward & back cast etc affect the loop shape and speed). When you have this quite well covered, then start false casting continuously doing the same line control stuff. Learn to cast with minimal effort (it is incredible how little force false casting ie 30’ line needs). Once you have the line in full control basically all the time with all the lengths from 10’ to 33’, you have a really good base on which to build. If I were you, I would check put Paul Arden’s video tutorials. You can easily find the starting point by googling: sexyloops fly casting masterclass introduction Personally I learned casting by myself, but would have saved many years of bad casting if I would have gotten a few lessons. Did master at least the distance part thou better than most. The triangle taper does shoot quite badly until you have the full head out (and some more with hauling, which is something you must do the get distance). If you are already hauling, go back to basics and do not haul before you are in control of the line without it. And then you do not want to haul early, just like you don’t want to “hit” with the rod hand early in the stroke, but late. Everything should be building up to the stop.
  15. Yeah, and the only one is the one in the center drag disc to which the clutch pawls lock to when line is pulled out. That is true. That is one reason I like reels that I can open and overhaul - and why I tend to open reels not meant to be opened by the user. But, I think, if you seal well enough, you can make a reel that will outlast the required lifetime many times over. The sliding speeds are low in fly reels (less than 10 ft/s*) in comparison to the industry in which I work (up to about 20 ft/s) thus the situation is easier. Also the pressure difference between the outside and inside of the reel is much smaller than what we are used to (more than ten fold difference assuming a feet or two of dunking for the reel). *Line coming from spool at 3.5" diameter (quite realistic), sealing diameter 3/4" (bigger than on most reels and thus gives higher sliding speed here) and fish is taking line 30mph (how many really have fish pulling this speed much I ask you? I fish for tunas, bones, tarpon, have fished for sailfish too and I don't see it much - if at all) -> 9.4 ft/s. And this speed is only occasional where the stuff I work with are running around 5000h per year with normal service interval of 5 years. The problem in reels is weight and space thou. A good seal could weigh and could take too much space without proper engineering.