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About sms

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  1. I have not been able to break a single rod component with expanding glue. The reel seat I nowadays glue with 5-min epoxy because I don’t want to wait before I get to making the handle. But I accept that it isn’t perfect even thou I use loads of epoxy and as the spacers I use drywall fiberglass mesh that is filled with epoxy before sliding the reel seat over (snug fit). Burkheimer is the only brand I know that uses PUR glue. And uses cork rings, not preformed handles.
  2. Basically all manufacturers do this badly. I have stripped enough rods to know it. It is actually amazing that no more handles feel no correct as they mostly are. The reason is not using very tight fit with epoxy if epoxy is used. And epoxy is not good for this as it does not expand - if all spaces are not full of epoxy, there will be voids. I used to use epoxy, but even then I fitted each cork ring onto the blank by reaming the hole snug so that I got good bridging with epoxy. With PUR you can easily get rid of voids completely, the whole handle is solid even if there is a big hole in the cork/handle compared to the blank as it expands. And this is way very bad handle fixed with PUR will be better than one glued at a factory with epoxy if the handle hole is reamed even slightly too large. And it is way too big if any spacers are needed.
  3. I would love an intermediate line longer head than what the Leviathan has - and lighter. Materials - would not change anything from the Leviathan. My BFT and albie rods have the same butt sections. Then I have different second from butt section in order to accommodate different stiffness tips (two most top sections). So, I could go all the way down to #9 line wise without fearing for fighting ability. But would probably go with #11 if given the choise - a nice balance between wind penetration and lightness. The Leviathan is heavy and a bit of a brick on a strap, even thou not as much as the numbers would suggest - mine is a bit older line and I think the head is longer (and heavier) than specified. The weight is not a problem, it is just too compressed, making it too heavy a line. But in other ways it is perfect. With my rods I tried 8kg drag and with 90 degree angle it means 11kg+ at the end of the line when the fly line is in the guides (high friction). And I go up to 10-11kg from the reel, which can be 15kg+ on the end of the line - with 50lb or higher leaders (straight leaders, no tippet) the fly line becomes the weakest point and I don't want to break the fly line. A good floater is a nice tool in the quiver - one can have the fly longer near the surface boil if the tuna are making their round (diving before hitting the surface boil again) without having to recast and possibly miss the feeding moment. Dear line manufacturers, please make all #9 and higher lines with at least 50lb core.
  4. It is run&gun. Several different lines - as long as they are strong enough and match the preference of the caster for a given rod. I use mostly intermediate Leviathan. But, on next trip I might try lighter, especially if the bite is on and breaking a fly line is not big of an issue (apart from it ending up as a trash in the ocean) as I use hell of a lot of drag.
  5. Pharmacy I would guess.
  6. Yes, original Gorilla glue is PUR.
  7. No epoxy. Use PUR glue. And make sure you have moisture involved too. The PUR glue will expand and fill everything (and extrude from all openings, including the needle hole you use to inject it). So be prepared - use masking tape to cover the reel seat and be wipe (with acetone) all glue that is getting to wrong places. If not wiped immediately, it will never be removed after.
  8. Yes, you save weight due to missing those. But the reason I hate snakes and use single foot ones is the haul-lock. In my opinion there is no place on a single hand rod for snakes. With TH it is different ball game since there is no haul involved.
  9. Lots of vids, but they're in FB, so not allowed to link. Spey casting from Team Finland: 18ft spey world champ and record holder Geir Hansen:
  10. Leader design is up to the competitor. The exact rules are here: Esa would be on the really safe side, except tippet length with accuracy and would be disqualified. In accuracy: leader length min 2,5m and tippet part of that must be at least 40cm long and max 0,30mm thick. In trout (max 9' rod 5wt game) and seatrout distance (max 10' rod and max 27g head) max 3m. In Salmon (max 15'1" rod and max 55g head) and 15'1" spey distance (max 15'1" rod) max 5m. In 18' spey distance max 6m.
  11. Yeah, the competition went pretty well for me. I only trained 15'1" spey - just like I have done for years. This was the first time I was able to get a medal on both spey events.
  12. I don't know if any of the salmon distance (55g line on a 15'1" TH rod and cast overhead) did only one back cast before delivery, but it is actually very easy for us. But in competition we are after the perfect back cast before making the delivery - an ok one we do not hit, but do at least another cycle. Yeah, you need longer heads if you want longer casts (in the limits of the fishing conditions of course). Short heads roll out too fast - especially with thick and heavy shooting line. And with thin/light ones the cast may become easily unstable and the loop will not roll. In both cases you end up with dumping line. For tailing wind you can use a rear heavy line and remember to release early. For head wind you may want more weight at the tip - especially when shooting into the delivery. Also you could use heavier line for easier distance.
  13. Yeah, pretty much everybody is a hard core fisher there. And we don't much get blown in - we just go fishing in spite (except if with a boat and the waves are too much for it). Yeah, we need to do some adjustments to cast into the wind. But for example in trout distance (the 5wt game), our back cast is with a long line and right into the wind if we are casting into a tailing wind like last weekend. But for those winds I would go with heavier line - but the taper of the line used would suit it is front taper cut back a bit. Yeah, we use yarn (we call it fluff) because it doesn't sink like flies would very easily. And fluff is safer if you hit yourself or the rod. And also as a plus, you don't need to tie anything else but a knot around the fluff.
  14. The schedule info that we have: The event schedule is provided provisionally as follows. Friday AM 27g Sea Trout Distance - All classes - qualifiers and finals Friday PM 55g Salmon distance - All classes qualifiers and finals Saturday AM 18ft Spey - Veteran men - 16ft Spey and 15ft Spey Women's class - qualifiers and finals. Trout Distance - Men's qualifiers and finals Saturday PM Trout Accuracy - All classes - qualifiers and finals Sunday AM 18ft Spey Men's qualifiers and finals Trout distance Women's qualifiers and finals. Sunday PM Men's 15ft Spey - qualifiers and finals.
  15. In the TH OH event I know some rods being used by some top casters: B&W Tournament Caster CND Ultimate 16’ shortened to 15’1” TSD T-Spey 15’1” #11 Zpey 15’ competition I have used Gloomis GLX 15’ and Daiwa Signature 16’ shortened to 15’1”. Casting a longish 55g (850grains) floating head is not that difficult with normal rods, but one needs to know how to cast a TH rod well. I tend to suck at back cast.