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About sms

  1. The level depends on how the drag washers are stacked = how many are in use.
  2. Yup, blue marlin.
  3. Here is the needle GSP loop made and tested with loop to loop method with Rio Leviathan with braided mono loop on it.
  4. My standard setup for YFT (and BFT) is straight 50lb. The shorter you can get away with, the easier it is when the fish is next to the boat - you can reel more line in without the leader connection getting inside the tip top. If the fish are leader shy I can drop to 40lb. Normally my leaders are from 6 to 10ft long. For sailfish I use the same, but have 130-170lb bite tippet of 2-3ft at the fly end to keep the bill away from the 50lb. Not even close to being IGFA legal, but I don't care.
  5. Hi Brian, On some gsp (spectra, dyneema, they are all the same; gel-spun polyethylene) lines it is ok, on some not. My 50lb Sufix performance braid is ok with it (almost the same as with needling with which the breakage happens somewhere else) for example. But, with my 50lb PowerPro drops to about 30%. And the cheap gsp lines I have all behave almost as bad with bimini (or another normally good knot for gsp, like surgeon's loop). -Sakke
  6. Take a look at the L5W 8twelve then. Alternatively F3W 7ten could do it if you don’t need a strong drag and #10 lines will be your heaviest and you use gsp (thin) backing. I’ve used my 8twelve at lightest for bonefishing with #8 lines. My friends have used the same reel up to big game stuff (BFT). FYI - all L5W and H5D series reels have the exact same insides.
  7. Yup, you need to first know what you want - line weigth and how much drag you want.
  8. Combining the first and third one is not possible. Mako's hub weighs too much. The same function could be made lighter (and have even a lot more drag if so wished). But basically I agree, my wish list: - drag adjustment of Mako - drag wear compensation of Mako - drag max 30lb - drag range setting of Danielsson (I mean the one where the drag knob adjustability, not internal). - sealing performance of Mako - spool change mechanism of Mako - dimensions and weight of CCF-X2 (pretty much the same as Danielsson when comparing apples to apples) - fairly loud metallic clicker sound when line is pulled out - just a fine ticking sound when line is reeled in - handle that can be changed so I could have the handle I want made for it
  9. Most sealed reels use O-rings for shaft seals. That is absolutely fine - until you start rotating the reel. O-ring is not a good seal for that. There are of course better and worse cases (material, dimensions, amount of compression, slide velocity etc). Basically I do not trust these really that much. Lamson/Waterworks has had their problems with IAR bearings since they did not use stainless and water did (and does) get in. I was surprised that even my Sage 8010pro has only O-ring on the shaft to seal it. My Ross Evolution R Salt has some kind of PTFE/Delrin/whatever plastic against stainless steel (basically a mechanical seal type). I am unsure how well that will hold. Danielsson reels have better (lip type) shaft seal. They are great value for money. I don't think I would use pretty much anything else than Danielssons should they have a bit narrower spool design - I hate wide spools.
  10. Loop to loop. On fly line I prefer braided mono loop (I make them myself so that I know they’re made correctly). GSP backing, splice if hollow, needle theough if not to get same effect. Both are 100%.
  11. I agree, the MD 13-15 model will be heavy to cast. I think you would be better off with the lighter LD 10-12 model even thou I prefer the handle setup of the heavier models. And I like heavy rods a bit shorter, but that is something that can be fixed, like my friend here does to an older BW LD (pre-SG) rod and made it better (after putting tip top on).
  12. I think in blue water one has quite easy conditions in the sense that there is no sand involved and mostly the reels stay dry even. So basically any open drag reel will work as long as it does not mind water (and rinse the stuff with fresh water after the day). I know for example that Behemoth works. It is a bit brittle thou so do not bang it around. I do not like the Behemoth (due to looks and is a bit wide for my taste), but if I did not have more than around $200 to use, I would go for one if I did not find a good used reel or other sale item. Well, true to be told, I would just borrow a reel from my network of fishing friends.
  13. Ritter look for a used reel with good reputation. Or get a Redington Behemoth. It is perfectly fine as long as you take care of it and don't bang it around too much. TFO BW or Redington Predator will be fine.
  14. Which are the heaviest rods and reels you have already?
  15. The Ross R salt is very light. The handle is great. The drag range is more than normal flyfisherman needs. To be perfect, I would like the drag knob turning to be a bit lighter (it is not really tight, but I like quite light) and the frame to be solid under the drag knob so one would be able to turn the drag knob without the frame spokes being on the way. btw, out of the non-self service reels I sold the Nautilus. And Sage I haven’t opened. Ross just had some sealant/threadlock on its drag housing threads, but I’ve taken a look inside. Basically it is like Orvis Mirage (the discontinued model).