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About sms

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  1. Mike, I’ve never gone steelheading. I doubt I never will either. I’ve been to BC, but the target fish are chum, coho and chinook. That neck of woods does hold steelhead, but I couldn’t be less bothered. I do fish atlantic salmon over here in Finland. To me, that is more about spey casting than fishing since the bites are far and between. For me blind casting is when I don’t know if the fish are there or not.
  2. I have the Affinity S #12 8'10" 4pc. It is a nice rod. Compares quite well to any good rod. If I were to choose a #12 only based on fishing, from the rods I've tried I think I would go with Vision Merisuola. It is an absolute gem. Mike, I don't really like blind casting - I wouldn't cast a half a tide with anything really.
  3. Yes. I like casting lighter rods too. But if you give someone a heavy weight set and that causes a problem, it is not the arrow, it is the indian.
  4. I used to use heavy rods (for me #12 is not heavy), but they are not fun to cast and line selection is very narrow. The reason to use these was that I want to pull the fish up (with tuna you have to lift them vertically at some point eventually) as fast as possible. The rods able to cope were heavy and stiff. Very unpleasant to cast. And also quite unpleasant to fight the fish due to long lever. My current rods are built on the foundation of glass butt section, a fitting glass section (shortest section of the rod; 1’-2’+) and graphite top sections (2 or 3 depending on their length, usually the top half of a 4pc fly rod). With the same butts I have rods that work from #10 lines to #12+ lines. These are slightly heavier than full graphite rods, but I like the way they cast. And they murder the fish when fighting them. I don’t think I can go back to graphite as I would break them in an instant with the fighting habits I’ve gotten accustomed to with these hybrids. If a 12 feels heavy, it is very much about casting ability, not the equipment.
  5. I wrap the leader around the reel and to the first stripping guide foot. That is my hook keeper on rod. It is much more convenient than one just above the handle and is never unnecessarily in the way.
  6. My simple way
  7. Pliers. Grab. Twist. Pull. No more lines destroyed or uncomfortable handling of the rod...
  8. The poor ones were poor straight out of the box. Probably variance between batches of core material. I also have older supple monocore Airflo (coldwater intermediate) lines. Horrible. They are very prone to tangling. if your line seems ok in terms of breaking strength , then you’ve got a good one if it otherwise suits you.
  9. Airfo used to have some lines that were easy to snap with a small tug between hands. They used to make some brilliant lines too. The scale was from unusable to great. That line with a stiffish/thick monocore would have made a great line, just like the old clear intermediate tropical tarpon was. Nowadays the darn ridges are ruining stuff. Fortunately Rio hasn't jumped to that bandwagon of texturing.
  10. Funny, the best intermediates I've come across have been with monocore. And they have been also with tropical coating. The Rio Leviathan is the best when it comes to intermediate fly line materials. It is stiff, but you can stretch it straight. And you can make the straightening easier by wetting the line the evening before fishing. It becomes easier to straighten, but not too limp. Airflo's old clear tropical tarpon intermediate is the second best I've seen so far. They are not as easy as the Leviathans to straighten when it gets colder. Unfortunately I didn't hoard those Airflos when I bought mine as they were dirt cheap back in the day. Cold Harkers Island November mornings have not been any issue with Leviathan or the Airflo as long as one stretches them when starting to fish. Both are stiff, so they lay nicely on a boat and do not tangle. I absolutely hate limp lines. They tangle way too easy by knotting themselves on the boat deck, bounce over the rod and thus tangle easily to the first guide when shooting line. Also, if the line is textured/ridged, it seems to worsen the limpness thing - that is in addition to their horrible finger eating property. The worst has been the current generation of Airflo Depthfinder Big Game - it seems to tangle even if you look at its general direction -> I've changed the running line to an intermediate monocore one them.
  11. In TH casting the rod tip does get lower unless the drift is very small and hands are raised a lot. The longer the rod, the more this happens. The line also drops naturally in the lower leg (gravity). Thus drifting back (and down), you are following the line better. With drift you can get more arc to following cast and/or change trajectory. TH rod is a rod just like SH rod. It work absolutely with the same principles. You just can’t haul with a TH (you’d need a third hand).
  12. I have the 9/10. Have used it on couple of albie trips (Harkers Island, NC and Jupiter, FL) and on bonefish in Guadeloupe. Very impressed except I don’t trust the sealing and they chose some stainless that rusts (spool attachment screw and the part it screws into). The rust is just aesthetic thing. The sealing - just open the reel after use once in a while. I was able to force in albies (winching the fish with the reel - my Danielsson with its full cage could not, I needed to pump with the rod). The drag is really good. I just wish it was 1 turn. Although mine was so that I found setting for stripping. Half a round more for normal fishing. Half a more and good for Jupiter albies so that tackle is not destroyed if line clearing is not a success. Then 1/6 turn more for a bit more command. 1/6 turn more and it was quite strong authority. 1/6 more was my “you ain’t going anywhere” (about 15lb of drag). The positions stayed the same for the whole week of hectic albie fishing. The drag was not too dirty after the trip when I cleaned the reel. At the start I thought it was a nice boat reel. Now I think it is a great boat reel. Not as good as my Makos, but a lot lighter. Nothing can beat Mako drag adjustment - well, nothing I have come across at least.
  13. It’s fishfash of course.
  14. Set the hook and don't play with the fish?
  15. Yup, but it held a lot better than I thought it would. And it broke elsewhere than I thought initially. Any full CF rod would have blown up gazillion times earlier. I think the front foot of the guide actually caused the breakage (and then got pulled out). See photo at the end. That rod casts very nicely albeit the bend is very weird looking. With those hybrid rods you can do stuff that you should not try with CF. You also need to - short pumps are not very efficient as the lever is short. So you need to pump from very low to very high (high stick), which is no problem as long as you keep the bottom part bent. I used up to the same drag settings as with I’ve used with BFT, which is about 18-20lb. I was really impressed by Ross Evolution R Salt reel performance. The drag is tough as nails and winching (reeling in without pumping) the fish was no problem. Dino is a great Captain equipped with a great sense of humor. I really enjoyed the trip.