steve maranto

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About steve maranto

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  1. I got mine from rodbuilders warehouse. All items ordered were in stock and shipped with quick turnaround.
  2. I would say it depends what you are targeting. Rods for targeting sharks and huge rays as a bycatch might not be a fun fight for bass and drum. Also a rod that casts 4nbait likely won't cast 8nbait as well as a dedicated heaver. Lucky for you that you plan to build a few, so you cover multiple species and seasons. I'd recommend getting a quality blank and then getting budget guides (Seaguide 316ss with RS rings, or Fuji CC with alconite rings) to save money. The Cast Pro Series 12'8" is a good all around light heaver for casting in the 5-8oz plus bait range. It will cast the full range with authority and loads/unloads effortlessly. Prior to my Florida move, these were my go to rods for spring and fall fishing on the Delmarva coast. They also did well with large sandbars, but didn't quite have the backbone to horse in the massive summer rays. IMO the best heaver on the market, but keep in mind 8nbait is the top of its range. Now that I'm targeting sharks and tarpon from the sand, I'm using a 13 ft CPS 6-10oz and CTS SV1305. The CPS blanks are top notch quality and a little more budget friendly while the CTS blanks are equal quality for a few more dollars. They cast and fish quite differently with the CTS having a stiffer more consistent taper throughout. For me, this means just power up and hit it on the cast. But the rod puts more strain on you when bringing in fish and can tire you out on days when big fish are plentiful. The CPS has a softer tip section, which for me, results in a bend in the rod that takes a lot of the strain off of you when horsing in big fish. Some will say the rod is timing sensitive on the cast, but I've come to see this as it responds favorably to proper technique. I prefer it for both casting and fishing, but the CTS is also a great choice and very popular blank. These might not be budget minded rods, but building isnt a budget minded hobby...at least not for me lol. Check out current pricing on a Torzite guide set for a heaver!
  3. Good to know, thanks! That was really my only hesitation. Otherwise they appear to be very high quality. Looking forward to starting the build. RedGreen, thanks for sharing your experience too. I also had a bad experience with the CC guides. Makes you wonder why Fuji doesn't just use a better steel, rather than CC process which seems to promote rust around the guide feet.
  4. Thank you both for sharing. Glad to hear you've had positive experience using them on multiple rods. The blank is backordered so I have lots of time to critique and ponder the design lol. One design aspect I am somewhat curious about is the angle of the ring. I'm wondering if it changes the contact point of the line to the edge of the ring rather tham the middle creating a higher rate of line wear. It's not that much different than the KWs so probably not an issue, but it's always good to hear from more experienced builders and fishermen. As always, the feedback is greatly appreciated! ZA, I also have 5 12s as running guides but probably could have gotten away with 10s instead.
  5. I believe reference is to the XQHG series which looks similar to a high frame k guide. This would give the option of dropping to a 25 or 20 for the stripper on a spinning rod (in 316ss or titanium). You would need a KW30 to get the same height or a substantial step up in price for the RV.
  6. Curious to see if anyone has experience using SeaGuide XQGs on conventional rods. Looking to put a set on an upcoming 13' heaver build but hoping for some feedback. The RS ring looks very nice and is slightly thinner than Torzites. Also the titantium frames feel lighter with a more palatable price tag, especially with the recent price hike on the Fujis. Here are some comparison pics for anyone interested. Left to right are the 16s, 20s, and 25s alternating the XQGs first and Torzites second.
  7. I thought about building one of these a few months back but couldn't find much info on them. I recall reading somewhere that they were better suited for the lower to mid range of their rating. I ended up going with a century weapon jr and am very happy with it's performance.
  8. You are 100% right. It was high build mislabeled as medium build. I went ahead and applied a coat to some recent thread work and it only took one coat compared to the three I'm used to with the PK medium build. Having never work with high build before, the coverage and quick dry time is a huge benefit. Aside from it being so yellow, maybe this worked out for best getting to try something new.
  9. Seems very likely it was the high build based on how quickly it hardened. Thanks for that thought. I've only ever used the standard PK and Aftcote and knew this one was different, so I ended up not using it out of concern that something was wrong. Fortunately the company offered to replace or credit toward a future purchase. Gotta love excellent customer service.
  10. Appreciate the reply LowEnd. How does it compare to previous orders of PK? Mine set up extremely quickly and rock hard, and overall yielded very different results than prior experiences. Usually this stuff will still have a slight tack after 12 or so hours at 75 degrees. In this case it was rock hard.
  11. I mixed up a batch of thread finish yesterday and noticed that the Prokote medium build was different from what I've used in the past. These were new bottles less than two months old and stored out of sunlight. The hardener was very yellow rather than the slight amber color I'm used to. It stayed yellowish after mixing, would not easily release bubbles, was tack free at 5 hours, and HARD within 8 hours. I'm no expert but have built multiple rods with multiple orders of Prokote. Anyone else think this might have been another brand of finish that made its way into the PK bottle?
  12. No doubts here...sounds like you did everything right. Hope you can get it fixed without too much hassle.
  13. Every bottle of the Prokote part b hardener I've had came with a slightly brownish tint to it. Both of your bottles look perfectly clear indicating the possibility they are both the part a resin. Even at the 70+ degree temps recommended by PK it will still be tacky at 12 hours, but it should be set up around 8 hours. You certainly shouldnt be able to pour it like your video showed unless the mixing proportions or room temp was way off. Any updates or changes since originally posting?
  14. Assuming it is the mojo blank (which I dont know for sure), it is a moderate action. However it is a limp noodle with 8oz and a bunker head. I did lob 16oz with it and it was fine, but not capable of meaningful distance. I always thought it would have been more appropriately rated as 4-8 or 6-10oz. If you are looking for an easy, smooth castince distance heaver in the mojos weight range, the CPS 12'8" is tough to beat. It will effectively cast 8oz and bait without being a noodle. If youre looking to cast 12oz n bait, you are a better man than me. I shift to sputniks or just pack up if 8oz doesnt hold. CPS 8-12 will throw up to 12 and is pretty moderate, but it requires proper technique to use. Best to try before you buy.
  15. I have no experience with Rodgeeks, but is this blank the same as the Mojo 6-16? If so, i would hesitate to call it a heaver. There are far better options out there.