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About FlatWing

  • Rank
    Elite Member


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Surf Fishing, Surf Fly Fishing, Distance Casting
  1. Before all the eel grass died in the back of IBSP, there was an excellent summertime weakfish fly rod fishery at Area 21. Requirement was to park in the main road parking lot and walk across the road, taking the path to the bay. One night when I was not there, someone threw a brick thru the back window of a truck, emptied out the guy's gear, and left him the brick....when the rangers were first replaced by NJ State Park Police, there were frequent arrests during "in-progress" robberies of vehicles...I guess the word got around that the hunting grounds are no more....only place I surf fish anymore, but even when I fish back waters, I always stay near my 4-Runner.
  2. Its been a number of years (2012) since I competed, but I believe SportCast USA requires the field to be minimum 1400ft edge-to-edge in the casting direction and 800 ft wide across, so as to accommodate Snap-offs by Masters Class Casters. I'll pm Don ask ask him to respond to this thread.
  3. Even when I load new braid on a spinner, I always come off the front of the spool, so as to prevent twist. I only load off the side of the spool if I am loading a cs conventional with 30lb PP or a 6500 size plugging ct conventional with 50lb Suffix Performance Braid.
  4. The great unknown when it comes to conventional reel spools is balance. Most spools require some kind of hump in the initial line lay, either a center hump or two outboard humps, to balance the spool. The whole reason for maximizing spool speed (i.e., several minutes spin with no brakes or magnets installed) is to check the balance after laying down a "backing" of mono perhaps 20 yards long. Then, once balance is achieved, the actual running line is installed starting with a Uni-Uni knot centered on the spool. once fully loaded, with a flat profile to the line, balance is again verified, magnets and/or brakes are installed, and appropriate oil is applied to the bearings. For me, the latter is 1 drop of Penn supplied oil on my Mag525 bearings (Stock with 1 side plate removed), and, on my ABUs, I drop of Rocket Reel Company Yellow Rocket Fuel (Bearings are Rocket Reel Company Ceramic Hybrid with one side plate removed). Before you ask, my reason for removal of the side plate is ease of cleaning, which I do by soaking the bearings in bio-degradable Simply Green (full strength) cleaner (at least 6 hours), brushing with a toothbrush, rinsing thoroughly, and allowing them to dry on a clean paper towel.
  5. I'm wondering if the field you use is large enough for official Sportcast events? If you go to their Facebook (I do not use Facebook), you should be able to ask about this. Right now they only hold them at Kenilworth (DC area) and Newport News, VA.
  6. I have looked for years for at least one Ross Big Game Canyon in a #7 for my 2 handers. Had to settle for 1/2 spool of 30lb Gel Spun on my #6's, but heaven help me if I ever have to wind that back on with a big one on the other end.
  7. +1 +1
  8. Mine is homemade. There are several companies in the UK, such as Pimp My Reel Company, Reel Kustom Reels and Rocket Reel Company that have tournament Grade Mag Control setups, mostly for Mag 525s, ABU 6500s and ABU 5500s.
  9. All: Kind of taking a first swipe at figuring out if anyone is interested in distance casting. Sportcast USA had tournaments in NJ up until 2012 or so, when the field rental became an attempted cash cow by Marlton Township. I know that representative(s) of Sportcast have been putting out feelers in Monmouth/Ocean County, and you may have seen some discussion occurring in the Distance Casting threads. Thanks for taking the time to respond.
  10. Scooby: Assuming it is not spot burning, where is the field that you are practicing on - I've been looking for one ever since Sportcast USA stopped having events in Marlton, NJ.
  11. Shepard: While I do not have a Penn 525 Mag2 (sold as a Squall Star Drag SQL25N here in the USA - same guts, different trim) or a modern day ABU 7000 Blue Yonder, I do have three Penn 525 Mags and a close to 25 year old Swedish Made ABU 7000c3ct with a knobby mag cast control and Rocket Reel Company Hybrid Ceramic bearings. Noting that I started off chunking with conventional reels (which you seem to be referring to as a "continuous" reel) using a Penn Squidder with a leather thumb brake, I figure I have been throwing conventional reels for roughly 37 years, although I have never come close to achieving the distances of true competitive casters like Tommy. Anyway, here are what I hope will be some tidbits to simplify your pursuit: I have used Suffix Siege and Elite Mono for about 14years now. I do not have them in front of me, but as I recall the test in these are 14lb for the Siege (used on my 525's in Neon Orange), 15lb for the Elite (again used on my 525's, by in Neon Yellow) and, on my 7000 ABU, I use 20lb Siege in Neon Orange, as this reel has a higher line capacity than the 525's. Since the Squall (or Mag2) magnet design is such that you cannot increase the number of mags, I would suggest to you that you try what worked for me when I started out on the 525s - Thoroughly clean your bearings (search on SOL for threads on this) and re-lube them with Rocket Reel Company Liquid Grease. Although this is made in the UK, it is readily available here in the USA as well. This will slow down the spool, greatly reducing the tendency to over-run without the damage caused by tightening the spool cap. Later on, when you become more proficient, you can go back to the regular Penn oil. More on the spool cap - this should be adjusted so that you have approximately 1/16 inch side-to-side knock on the spool. Later on, you can loosen this to speed up the spool. Never tighten the cap to where you have no knock, as this can damage the bearings and/or shaft. On your ABU BY, both caps should be adjusted not only for knock, but also to center the spool. First center the spool, then back off both caps equally to achieve the knock. Line lay - Tommy taught me at one of the tournaments that, no matter the spool width, the proper line wind-on cadence is to cross the spool once with every 5 turns of the handle - this will greatly help to prevent line dig-in, as well as eradicating the egg shape you are experiencing. And yes, that egg shape is a definite contributor to end-of-spool line drag coming off the spool, which "shocks" the line and causes nesting and/or break-offs. I do use braid on ct conventional reels when throwing lures - right now my reels in rotation are a Daiwa Millionaire 7HT Tournament Mag and an ABU 6500c3 with a Rocket Reel Company ct cage, hybrid ceramic bearings and a 3-mag knobby mag cast control. On these reels I use Suffix Performance Braid in 50lb test with a 40lb test Berkley Big-Game monofilament shock leader. I realize my braid tests higher than my shock leader, but this is driven by the need to prevent main line dig-in. I tried 30lb braid, but went back to 50. I never thro lures heavier than 4oz, so no need for heavier shock leader. Also, when using braid, line lay in accordance with item 4 above becomes more critical, as does line tension on the retrieve. Maintaining line tension with artificial lures is a function of lure selection - when Striper fishing, the lure you use should always be matched to current conditions such that you feel the lure dig into the water throughout the "stupidly slow" retrieve - if not, then a change of lure type is called for. Regarding Power Pro for Surf Casting - I have used PP exclusively on my fixed spool Surf outfits since the early 90's with no issues what so ever, be they VS reels, Daiwa LC or Shimano LC. For throwing lures, I use 30lb with a 60lb Hollow Ace Braid Casting Leader (i.e., same length/# of spool wrap configuration as a mono shock leader on a conventional). I like the Heavy Hollow Ace, as it lays flat and, for lures below 2oz, eliminates the need for casting finger protection. For chunking, I use 50lb PP main line with a 65 to 100lb PP Braid Casting Leader, depending on the outfit (these days I do not throw heavier than a 6oz storm sinker and a Bunker Head). I noted that you buy your terminal rig components from the UK - I suggest that you look into Breakaway USA components for your clip down and Pulley rigs - you can order from them directly, although I find mine at a local B&T here in Ocean County, NJ. Hope this helps.
  12. When I looked at the Saltist 30 level wind, I was amazed that a spool driving a level wind pawl could free spin that long. The way I did my fixed mags was to stack two mags - this gives me enough control with 65lb test and a cut-down (6 inches from the tip) All Star BGSW1206-2 that I can throw 1 1/2 to 3oz lead head shad/bucktails into a strong NE without blowing up and still drop the jig in front of the opposite wall in the PP Canal. I figure if I ever want to throw 8-n-bait at night w/o trying to see the line lay on my ABU 7000c3CT, this is the reel I will use on my 12ft Shimano Tirelejo conventional, after removing one of the mags from the stack.
  13. true it does not have brakes, but if you look at the exploded view diagram on the Daiwa site, there is more room for fixed mags then there is on my Saltist 30 level wind, and that took me all of about 10 minutes. Conversely, there is also plenty of room for a single knobby mag mod - I'll be Ryan White (Hatteras Jack's) already has one worked out.
  14. IMHO, the best all-round surf sticks ever produced were the Lami S-Glass SSB1362M and the Fenwick SU1348. I have the privilege of owning both, and when we used to have blitzes on the beach, they were my go-to rods. Unfortunately, Father time has required me to find lighter blanks in recent years, due to both nerve damage in my right hand and the need to spend much more time prospecting with lures in general, pencils or otherwise. To that end, I have found that the FSC SB-1386 and the Century HJ144L (from which I cut 3 inches off the butt), both reasonably duplicate the performance of the aforementioned blanks, with appreciably better casting distance, as both are carbon fiber blanks. The Century was my first build for throwing my favorite pencil, a 2 3/4oz Gibbs, but I added the FSC when I found the smaller 1 to 2 oz pencils were too lite for the Century to load (oscillate) during the retrieve, without tending to pull the plug out of the water (this is possibly why many builders cut 9 inches from the butt). Notably, the S-Glass and Fenwick have no trouble casting or retrieving pencils from 1 to 3oz, and the Fenwick will even handle my 4oz Plugcaster Pencils. Hope this helps. Happy New Year to all - hopefully 2019 will be a better beach Striper season than it has been the last several years.
  15. Offer Withdrawn