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About FlatWing

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    Elite Member


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Surf Fishing, Surf Fly Fishing, Distance Casting
  1. Brian - if you are in NJ near IBSP, I highly recommend letting Perry Jost rustproof your new truck (he is in Belmar, just off Rt 35). He did my 1989 Jeep Cherokee, and I traded it in after 15 years and 65,000 almost 100% beach miles with zero undercarriage rust. I paid one of the Ocean County Toyota dealers a grand to rustproof my 4th gen and lost it after 11 years to frame corrosion. I went back to Perry with my new 5th gen - removed the skids and all plastic undercarriage/engine compartment panels before hand - he drilled and plugged the door and lower adjacent body panels, sprayed both outside and inside the frame, and clear coated the engine compartment and area in front of the radiator. I coated the skids with Rustoleum 2-part epoxy truck bed liner, as it holds up pretty well to sand ablatement. When I re-installed the skids I used Stainless Steel (from West Marine) 8mm hex head bolts liberally coated with aluminum anti-seize (Permatex makes it, if I recall correctly) every time I bring it in for service, I remove, clean and touch up the bottom of the 2 engine skid plates, but note that I only do this once a year, as the truck (a 2016) only has 18,000 miles to date. Last December, I went into the dealer's shop and we thoroughly inspected the undercarriage - no signs of rust at all. I did remove the gas tank skid plate and touch it up around the drain holes (again, due to sand ablatement). My regular maintenance is to fresh water rinse the undercarriage after every beach trip using the pictured spray wand from West Marine. I also made up an extended and bendable air blow gun using refrigerant tube and compression fittings that allows me to blow the sand off the skids and out of the engine and transmission cross members when I remove the 2 engine skid plates.
  2. My 4ht Gen 2004 4-runner was white - I found out the 1st year on IBSP that the black vampire flys love white. So did the flying (drone) ants when they would swarm. So did the grasshoppers when they swarmed (and those Bast***s hurt when they bite) My 5th gen 2016, as you can see, is dark blue - shows every scratch (who cares, it's a fishing truck), but the aforementioned bugs hardly notice it.
  3. Worm Gear Drive allows for a much slower travel of the spool than that of a VS, VSX, VR Penn Z, Penn SS (original Penn Skirted Spool), or older Daiwa models such as the Black/Gold (original BG), GS (Gold Series) or SS (Silver Series) to name a few. The reels mentioned all have a follower on the end of the spool shaft that is "keyed" to a post on the inside of the ring gear, which drives the pinion gear that turns the Flyer (on which the line roller is mounted). The old ring and pinion design lays the line in a helix pattern, which, in the case of the original VS, resulted in an hourglass shaped spool fill, as the spool was tall compared to the other ring and pinion reels mentioned. Although the line lay is a disadvantage in terms of casting distance, a VS250 on a top end surf (vice field competition) distance rod such as a CTS S-8/S-7 or Century Sling Shot of 12 -13ft is still capable of 300ft+ casts with a Hatteras Cast and an aerodynamic lure. The advantage of a ring and pinion reel with high quality gear material is that is a winch, Worm Gear reels, especially those with a so-called slow oscillation, provide for really impressive casting distance in the surf, as the drag of the line on the spool, during the cast, is greatly reduced. The longer the spool, the greater the effect, as there is less line direction change during the cast. Some clarification may be required - Slow oscillation refers to the fact that for one up and down cycle of the spool, many more wraps of line occur, as compared to a ring and pinion reel, so the line helix angle is almost zero degrees. Line direction change refers to the line leaving the spool from top (lip) of the spool to bottom (skirt) of the spool, and then reversing direction from bottom to top. The disadvantage of worm gear reels is that they should not be used as a winch, as the worm does not like a bending load while in dynamic (winching) mode, and since a worm has a very shallow path for the follower, tensile loads (again resulting by reeling under pressure) will wear on the path/follower. Accordingly, Worm Gear reels, especially Long Cast ones, should be used in a pull (the rod) up/reel down manner, allowing the (commonly) massive drag to tire the fish on its runs. Hope my explanation was clear.
  4. Last Fall was notable for the lack of large bait in either the back waters or surf in Ocean County, NJ, so I started think about shorter flies for the coming fall. Plus I'm kind of house bound by the current heat wave, so I needed a fishing project to pass the time....1st picture is something of a bucktail deceiver variant with an epoxied Mylar Braid head to push water, Next couple of pictures are a Deciever variant that is tied with Flatwing hackles, a glass rattle covered with epoxied Mylar Braid, and a head formed by epoxying 3d eyes. Last couple of pictures are Flatwings with a spun dear head variant of the L&L Special and a Blurple. Also, my variant of any of Kenny's patterns where he palmered a soft hackle is to instead fold and palmer a large Marabou feather. Last picture is a standard Rhody Flatwing, the pattern that was my 1st (and at the time only) Flatwing and accounted for my 1st surf caught Bass (15lb's) on a fly with a cast of no more than 50ft. Been hooked on Flatwings ever since. I'll post more pics as the summer project continues. Hopefully others will post pics of their Fall arsenal to pass the "Heat Wave Days".
  5. I've never tried it, but Berkley Gulp has a Sand Crab/Flea. If you are into Fly Fishing, Atlantic Saltwater Flyrodders have several videos: http://aswf.info/fly-tying/tying-videos/
  6. Don: No offense taken, sorry if my reply read that way. Whenever folks ask me about tackle, I always refuse to give input on that with which I have no experience, so I was trying to convey that I was simply conveying a message, I was not it's author, vis-à-vis using, much less modifying a Fathom. Fishaholic's input on PMR's less than stellar reputation, only serves to magnify my recent experience of getting burned when I trusted multiple sources of internet info on the quality of a product that cost me over $375.00....First time I ever bought a commercial product sight unseen. Thankfully, I have found my fellow SOL'ers to be honest.
  7. More pictures please.
  8. Don: I don't "have a dog in this fight", as I have never owned, and never will own, a Penn Fathom reel of any type - I was simply conveying the "specific recommendation" from one of the YouTube videos of an unnamed (iaw forum rules) gentleman in the UK who professionally converts a wide variety of conventional reels to mono mag, and had cause to repair a Fathom 15 that had been magged by another company (which he did not name) using a smaller mag. In the video, he demonstrated the level of control with both size mags - the 8mm full on allowed a spin time that he stated would then give the caster an actual range of control as the mag is backed off to accommodate more favorable conditions (i.e., less headwind to full, very strong tailwind) don't quote me, but I think the spin time with the smaller mag kind of seemed like there was no mag at all with the mag full on, whereas the spin time with the 8mm mag was 3(?) seconds. Regarding your 2nd comment, I have attached the Penn reel schematic - please note that, just like the Daiwa Sealine-X 30SHA that I mono magged, the centrifugal brakes and the brake ring (Penn calls it the Brake path - P/N 27D) need to be removed in order to install the mono mag. Also, I do not agree with your stated position that the centrifugal brakes need to be retained for control at the start of the cast - this implies the Lentz's law does not apply until the spool loses a certain amount of mass (line) during the cast. I do not want to engage in a physics debate, but if what you state were true, then every "off the shelf, mag only cast control conventional reel", such as the Penn 525 and 515 Mag, Mag 2 and Mag 3, the Penn Squall 25 and 15, the MC Avet reels, etc. would have been design failures, because they would all have blown up at the start of cast, what with lacking centrifugal brakes. Penn Fathom 15 Star Drag Schematic.pdf
  9. A picture is worth a thousand words.... First 2 pictures very old (based on the handle) Luxor 300 which lives with a Fenwick SU1348 Honey Yellow Surf Rod (sorry, no pictures of rod - yet) Next 4 pictures of my 70's vintage Crack 300/Lami S-Glass SSB1362M Surf Rod Combo. They're heavy by todays standards, but the parabolic action makes them still the best pencil rods ever built, with the Luxor/Crack line retrieve rate allowing the plug to "dance" almost on station. I drilled and sealed the fliers, and hand-made a seal to fit under the flier. In addition, I drilled out the Crack Spool (Luxor came drilled out), polished both spool lips, and packed the gear cases with Dow Corning #33 Low Temperature synthetic bearing grease, so these were ideal "I need my thermals" Surf Reels. Today, with the miniature bass available in the surf late season, they mostly hang in the garage as reminders of fishing days I will likely never see again in my lifetime.
  10. I would leave the bearings oiled and look into getting a knobby mag conversion - Search "Penn Fathom 15 Star Drag Knobby Mag and you will see three UK suppliers and a number of YouTube Videos. Note that a specific recommendation is that a Mono Mag should be 8mm (diameter) by 3mm (thickness), I did this type of conversion (got rid of the brake blocks and converted to a knobby mag on a Daiwa Sealine-X 30SH that I used for Brown Sharks, Sand Dusky Sharks, Cow Nosed Rays, etc. Like your reel, it was a "Live Spindle" design, and fast as hell without the mag control, but became a "thumb off until touchdown" reel when paired with a 13ft All Star 1pc/2pc (4-12oz rating). With very little field experience, a really bad knee in need of replacement, a 100% herniated disk lumbar spine and 50% herniated cervical spine, I threw 175grams 473 ft with an OTG cast at the 2008 SportCast USA NE Open Tournament, so I'm sure that you could do even better with your set up and your reel properly tuned. Hope this helps.
  11. I recently filled out the NJFG survey. In the comments section I expressed my belief that the major problem is not what the regs are, but rather the lack of F&G enforcement of the regs. Consider this - if there were no State Troopers on the GS Parkway or NJ Turnpike, how many drivers do you think would obey the speed limit. It's human nature. I see it all the time in the Point Pleasant Canal - before Sandy, the Marine Police Station was manned 24/7 with an officer on station in their rotunda, from which you can see the entire length of the canal. So every boat came down off plane when they entered the canal, thus obeying the posted "No Wake Zone" signs. And if they didn't the Marine Police were in their high speed rigid hull inflatable, waiting for them when they got to the vicinity of the Station. Then that Dumb A*s Chris Christie made the station his headquarters right after Sandy, and decided the Marine Police were a waste of money. Now the station is manned by State Police who are, for all intents and purposes "home for dinner" and every boater knows it. You haven't lived until you are fishing off the wall in the dark and some obnoxious idiot not only swerves toward the wall when they see you but throws a large enough wake to throw water over the wall at you. Say something and you get an "F**k You" reply. Sorry for the long analogy, but the same thing occurs in terms of folks obeying the fishing regs - I personally can count on less than one hand the number of times I have encountered an F&G officer, and I have fished Ocean County Salt Water since 1981 - up until 2009, I would fish at least 4 times per week from March 1st to December 23rd - do the math. Do you think the morons (of every ethnicity), that fish the Raritan River every spring run of breeders, would be culling 20lb+ fish if they thought F&G was anywhere in the area? Of course not. But history has taught them that there is virtually zero probability that they will be caught - even if there is a moratorium, these A-holes that have their kids running around in the dark, in diapers, while they basically poach Stripers, will continue fishing, unless some NJ bureaucrat gets off their overpaid a*s and hires more F&G to enforce the regs, and the politicians pass some F&G violation penalties that have teeth. Violators should, on the spot, lose all assets that facilitated their actions - take their tackle (every last bit of it) and the means of transportation by which they arrived at the place in which the violation occurred - be it a boat, car, truck, van or bicycle - this will solve the issue of illegals not showing up in court to pay their measly fine. Folks only stop prohibited behavior when there are painful and, most importantly, instantaneous consequences that can not be evaded.
  12. I have never owned an Avet, but had a lot of interaction (over the phone) with Bill of Bill's Custom reels (we shared Department of Navy Engineering Experience). He made a number of ABU modification pieces for me that were of impeccable quality, so I feel confident passing this along. According to Bill, the close proximity of the side plate to the spool made Avet mag adjustment ineffective unless you could wind the magnet up a tube, past the outer surface of the side plate. His knobby mag designdid just that. He drilled and threaded the side plate, and his tube was externally threaded for installation. The end cap of the tube was drilled and threaded for the #10 threaded rod (which had the mag holder on the end inside the tube and a knurled knob on the outside. Unfortunately, Bill walked away from his internet based business to return full time to technical writing for the submarine side of the Navy, and I do not have the technical specifications for his design, but at least you have the description of his design concept.
  13. yNice fish - I think I have seen the last of the Big Striper in the surf days for my lifetime, so any bass is C&R, all my flyes and lures are barbless, all my plugs have only one belly hook, no matter how many the came with, and all my lures have either a single (in-line or Siwash) hook or flag on the tail. For me, fishing has become about enjoying the act, and any caught Stripers, Blues or Weakfish are icing on the cake. You'd be surprised how relaxing fishing can become when you are no longer obsessed with the possibility of missing "the bite".
  14. My vote is for the Daiwa Saltist Levelwind, probably in the 20 size for your fluking application. I use the 30 size loaded with 65lb power Pro for fishing the Point Pleasant Canal in NJ. Fastest Level Wind reel I have ever owned (and I have owned a lot). If I were to ever convert to a level wind for surf chunking, this would be my choice. Forcast control in the canal I have stacked 2 large mags (would have to look at the size I settled on) in a static position on the inside of the left side plate, with the bottom one glued in. For the surf I would remove the top mag and load the reel with 50lb Power Pro with an appropriate sized mono shock leader, spliced on with Power Pro Hollow Ace.
  15. Striper's feeding "on a Hatch" occurs with a multitude of bait swarms, some where the bait is so small or "glassy" that it is barely visible to the human eye. Examples are isopods, cinder worms, grass shrimp, glass minnows and baby fluke, the latter of which literally disappear on a sandy bottom. From http://www.fishing-boating.com/baitprofiles/glasminn.htm: "Glass minnows and silversides are anchovies. Yes, the same anchovy that you eat on pizza or in Caesar dressing. The bay anchovy is Anchoa mitchilli for those of you that hope to catch me in my identification mistakes. They range from Maine through the Gulf of Mexico in great abundance. They are easily recognized by the fact that they are transparent with a broad silver stripe down the side and are seldom over three inches long. There are a half dozen species according to Dr. Bob Shipp and he says no one but a fishery scientist would care to describe the differences in them. When you are looking for bait and suddenly your fish finder shows a giant school under the boat, you throw the net perfectly, it sinks quickly, and comes back empty, you throw again and again as the fish finder tells you to, and continue this game until you are exhausted - then you are throwing on glass minnows. Some of us play this game for many years, even though we know better. Eventually you will get older and either find a younger person to throw the net, or after one or two empty throws, move on to another area to hunt bait. "