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About FlatWing

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    Elite Member


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Surf Fishing, Surf Fly Fishing, Distance Casting
  1. In terms of loading, I use Mineral Oil (from the Walmart Pharmacy, sold as a laxative), injected after sealing the plug eyelet and hook hangers with Flex Coat rod builders epoxy. I load the 7 inchers to 1 1/2oz, and the 5 inchers to 1oz. Since mineral oil, like any oil, is less dense than water, the plug remains more buoyant than if it were loaded with water, and the evaporation issue is also resolved. After the cast. jerk the plug and it will float level. Also, I replace all tail hooks with a sparsely dressed in-line owner single hook, which allows the tail to ride higher, exaggerating the wake. The following is an excerpt from Bassdozer's Surf Plugology: The 5" Cotton Cordell Red Fin made its way to the striper coast not long after the Rebel Minnow. At first, the Red Fin was ill-suited for striped bass duty.The original Red Fins had soft copper split rings, soft yellow brass hook hangers, soft bronze hooks and painted blue eyes. They were made for freshwater. Fortunately, bass loved them,. However, you could not use them with the original hardware. Biggest problem was the soft copper split rings would uncurl. You'd get a hit, fight the fish a little bit, and then the line would go limp. You'd think maybe you'd dropped the fish, but then look at the plug, and see there are no hooks left on it. The split rings are gone. You could close your eyes and picture the copper split rings uncurling as easily as you would pull the lace open to untie your shoe. No matter how gingerly you played a fish, the forces of bass and surf were too powerful for the measly copper split rings that originally came on the Red Fins. So you'd have to pull the split rings off some Rebel minnows. The Rebels had heavy duty stainless steel rings. The Rebel, the hooks would bend straight or break first. The Rebel split rings were too thick to fit through the yellow brass hook eyes on the Red Fins. So you had to ream out the brass eyes on all the Red Fins to get the stainless split rings on them. You would also put the stout saltwater hooks from the Rebels onto the Red Fins. After making those changes, the Red Fin became another story - one of glory. The 5" plastic lip minnows opened up a whole new paradigm of surf fishing and back bay inlet fishing. Although the Rebel minnow produced fish - and it cast more easily - it really was the Red Fin that produced better catches. Where I found the 5" Red Fins to be most deadly were in little corners, little folds or pockets where the bait got jammed in there, seeking sanctuary. It wasn't big bait - just spearing and silversides and such. Most anglers of the day all used stout conventional rods. They were either bait fishermen or threw rigged eels and big wood plugs. Say someone's just fished over this little corner, this little safe haven of spearing - with a massive Jointed Pikie, an Atom 40, an Atom Junior or some large lure like that. Then you could slip down into the water with a spinning rod and something no one else rarely used in the surf - the 5" Red Fin that matches the hatch. Kaboom! Even when word started to get out, people knew some of the super sharpies were relying on the 5" Red Fins, you'd rarely see no more than a handful of guys on the beaches with these light spinning rods and Red Fins - yet they were usually the guys who had a load of fish. One of the problems that most guys had with the 5" Red Fin was that they couldn't cast it far. Even with only a light breeze, you weren't going to get much beyond the first wave. A big cast is an ego booster, so most guys could not deal with the 5" Red Fins, use a spinning rod to do that. As the larger and more cast-able 7" Red Fins and other 7" plastic lip minnows came onto the scene, they became more popular, very popular. Guys could cast them, yet it was still considered light tackle, a step down in size but much closer to the big conventional gear that made guys comfortable. For the 7" plastic lips, it also needed to be a spinning rod, but at least guys could get it out past the first wave. The 7" Red Fin, guys could deal with that, use a spinning rod to do that. Yet most people, even after experiencing the success of the 7" plastic lip minnows. they could never get it in their minds how big stripers could be caught on the flimsy-looking 5" Red Fins. But to a rare few anglers, it had become a whole new way of surf fishing - finesse. Only a few embraced it wholeheartedly, and had it all to themselves. For them, both their quality and quantity of beach-caught fish skyrocketed using the spinning rods, lighter line and 5" Red Fins. A great trick was to cast straight out in front of you, and just keep the line taut as the Red Fin swung in a semi-circle down tide. Often the hit would come when the Red Fin was parallel to the bank directly down tide from you, only a second before the surf spit the plug out onto dry sand. You couldn't do this, get these close-in hits on a short cast. You had to let it swing down, which took a lot of time, and most guys were too impatient to do it. Most guys never got out of the mode of cast, reel, cast, reel, cast again. Meanwhile, you would make one cast with the Red Fin - and just drift it, not even turning the reel handle. You couldn't do this in a line-up - or even with one other guy down tide from you. Your plug would be down past the next guy before it got into the thin band of the shoreline strike zone. Whether fish were leisurely following along behind the plug, and belting it only when it got too shallow for them to continue to follow it - or whether the plug only got into their range within inches from the shoreline? Who can say? But you couldn't do it on a short cast. You had to cast long, and let it swing down. Maybe your immediate presence on a short cast alarmed them - or maybe you just weren't getting it out far enough where they were - then they would tail behind it all the way to shore. The split-second before the plug popped out onto sand forced the bass to make a decision. Ka Boom! It may have something to do with the fish conserving its energy, tailing the plug and not wanting to expend a lot of energy to strike in open water where the plug (bait) had plenty of space to evade the attack. So the fish just follows the plug (bait) until it has no more room to maneuver or evade the bass - until the bass had it pinned against the shoreline. Another great trick that works extremely well with the 5" Red Fin is to make it into a "Super-Vee Walker". This is a modification that you can perform on a Red Fin that makes it into a special plug - one that will make a vee wake on the surface. This works especially wicked if there is a flat surface on the water - either flat and still, or flat and moving. It is less necessary to wake the surface when there is swirling current, rain, wind, chop, waves, rips, whitewater, backwash, water sweeping over bars or humping past jetty tips and so on. But under calmer surface conditions, the super vee wake of the modified Red Fin may be deadly. Just take a cigarette lighter, being very, very careful - and turn the flame way down low. Hold it near the base of the plastic lip where it joins the body of the bait. Better to heat it too slowly than too quickly. This is more easily done on the solid-colored plastics. The chrome painted Red Fins have a tendency to bubble up a bit. Just heat gently, and use a flat stick like a paint stirrer or straight-edged ruler to slowly bend the heated lip back toward the tail a bit. This modified Red Fin works on those super quiet nights when everything is flat and during those first and last hours of the tide when everything is easing off and moving slowly. This one almost twists and turns in place, causing explosive strikes.
  2. Goldy - completely disagree with your position. Striped Bass conservation is a national, not a regional issue. If one politician, ANYWHERE succeeds in action(s) contrary to Striper conservation, it potentially opens the "precedent" floodgate across the country. I strongly urge anyone on this forum who loves the species to support any conservation actions, petitions, etc. regardless of the state in which they originate. There is strength in numbers. Please do not let any personal, politically driven views of another region/state overshadow the need to preserve this species, wherever they dwell. Regards to all.
  3. Signed
  4. A sub-adult great white shark measuring nearly 10 feet long has been tracked in Long Island Sound off the Connecticut shore for the first time ever, marine researchers said on Monday. The great white was being tracked Monday by the ocean research group Ocearch, which has been tracking the shark since last year, Chris Fischer, founder of the research group, told ABC News. "Be advised! For the first time ever, we are tracking a white shark in the Long Island Sound," Ocearch researchers tweeted Monday Fischer said the shark measures 9-feet 8-inches and was spotted off the shore of Greenwich, Connecticut. "He was right up on the beach, very close," Fischer told ABC News. He said his group first spotted the great white in Nova Scotia last fall, where he was pulled from the water, tagged with a tracking device and released back into the wild. He said his research team named the shark Cabot after the Italian navigator John Cabot, who explored North America in 1497 under the commission of Henry VII of England. "To see him that deep into the Sound I think that that is a fantastic sign for the region and really interesting development for us because we just haven't seen them that deep into the Sound previously," Fischer said. He said the presence of the shark in Long Island Sound indicates an abundance of sea life in the area for the predator to feed on. "I think it's a really great sign for the Sound because these white sharks only go where there's an abundant amount of life, where the water is in pretty good shape," Fischer said. "That's a real positive sign for the Sound there." He said that previously his group has only spotted a baby white shark just outside the mouth of Long Island Sound, just north of Montauk. Since Ocearch has been tracking the Cabot, the great white has traveled all the way to Florida. "Now he's making his way back north, probably back to the Nova Scotia region," Fischer said. "Something got his attention and brought him into the Sound to have a look." He said he didn't believe there was any imminent danger for swimmers in the area, but cautioned that people should "demonstrate common sense" before going into the water. Fischer said he suspects Cabot is just making a pit stop to feed on what is in the area, before heading back out to deep water and continuing north.
  5. Crow: Look for JettyLings post on page 2 of this thread. If I did not own the now defunct TFO TiCr 12ft 12wt, I would duplicate this build/fly line. https://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/topic/759323-diy-th-fly-rod-build/?page=2
  6. It is actually referred to as "Shrink Rubber Tube" by UK companies. I have purchased mine from the Century UK "Century Fishing Online Store" under "Sea Accessories" . Another source recommended to me is the Rod Rings and Things Company in the UK. Note that you will need to measure the blank diameter in mm and order the closest, but larger size.
  7. DR Bob: Is this still available?
  8. Have you tried the RIO In Touch Switch Chucker - 9wt comes in at 570gr with a 25ft head and total length of 100ft. Line is Float only, and I'm wondering if it will work on my TFO TiCR 12ft 12wt, since the RIO Outbound is no longer made.
  9. I've read reviews where most consider this rod to be a Long Cast design that delivers. Why not match it to a light weight long cast reel? I personally would go for the Shimano Ultegra CI4+ 5500XTC, but with a budget of $200.00, you might want to look at the Penn Conflict II Long Cast in the 4000 size.
  10. Although I started out tying on stainless hooks, such as the Mustad 3407, Tiemco 800S and Varivas 900P, once the preponderance of my ties became Flatwings, I went to Eagle Claw 254's. In the past few years, Mustad has come out with the Tarpon Hook (C68SNP-DT) in 2XH/2XS, which I now use for Flatwings that I want to suspend lower in the water column and for Bunker flies. I have never experienced rust in either the EC 254 or the Mustad Tarpon Hooks, and I crush all my barbs, and have done so since 1996 on all flies, teasers and lures.
  11. White, yellow chartreuse (as opposed to green chartreuse) and black. Any other topping or lower wing colors (I.e., olive, purple, green chartruese, pink or the variety of blue shades) can be achieved with a successful search for long saltwater bucktail. I have also created rather large herring and bunker patterns by substituting natural Saltwater Yak hair in a sparse high tie. Lengths up to 16 inches are out there. If you want to push out your minimum number, purple would be good, and for squid, at least one of either subtle (versus bright) orange, tan, ginger or natural dun is necessary.
  12. Mark: As promised, pictures for each step of the tie. Sorry for the delay and the less than stellar picture quality from my Flip Phone. As a reminder, here is my recipe: Hook: Eagle Claw 254 4/0 Thread: Black Danville Flat Waxed Nylon Platform: 30 Hairs Grey (or Orange) Bucktail, dubbed Orange Pillow, Orange Neck Hackle Tail: Three White Saddle Hackles tied in flat (the 1st feather should be webby and about as wide as the orange neck hackle) , veiled by 4 pale yellowish ginger flatwing saddles, then 2 purple Krystal Flash strands on each side, doubled and tied in beside the "side" ginger saddles.I then create a "short veil" with a natural barred mallard flank feather on each side, followed by a long reinforced Jungle Cock Eye, with 2 Golden Pheasant Amber Tipped Wing feathers tied in on top with their spines next to each other (so not quite flat). Final step is a webby blue-grey Flatwing saddle tied in flat. Body: Purple Braid wrapped in 3 layers to give the body diameter, and tied in approx. 1/4 inch from the eye. Head: First a 1 hair thick layer of yellow bucktail spread 3/4 around the hook and extending to the end of the Golden Pheasant feathers (thus leaving the purple body braid showing underneath the fly). This is followed by the same thickness/spread/length of dark blue (not S.D blue) bucktail and topped with the same thickness/spread/length of orange bucktail. Collar: "Headless Horseman" style - first a large grey marabou feather tied in near the but, wetted and folded double, and wound three turns before tying in. Second, a brown marabou installed the same way.
  13. And now for something completely different...and speaking of being radicalized (in a fishing sort of way)….BEWARE the Japanese Bait and Tackle,,,I've seen videos on You Tube by an American Serviceman stationed in Okinawa...JDM reels are an addiction not easily cured...but if you ever get over there let everyone know...some of us might ask you to be a reel (sic) mule...
  14. And yet again, one should know the real history before hanging onto titles of political parties to make a point (for the answer to your question, please refer to underlined red text): On 5 January 1919, the German Workers' Party (DAP) was founded in Munich in the hotel Fürstenfelder Hof by Anton Drexler,[1] along with Dietrich Eckart, Gottfried Feder and Karl Harrer. It developed out of the Freier Arbeiterausschuss für einen guten Frieden (Free Workers' Committee for a Good Peace) league, a branch of which Drexler had founded in 1918.[1] Thereafter in 1918, Harrer (a journalist and member of the Thule Society), convinced Drexler and several others to form the Politischer Arbeiterzirkel (Political Workers' Circle).[1] The members met periodically for discussions with themes of nationalism and antisemitism.[1] Drexler was encouraged to form the DAP in December 1918 by his mentor, Dr. Paul Tafel. Tafel was a leader of the Alldeutscher Verband (Pan-Germanist Union), a director of the Maschinenfabrik Augsburg-Nürnberg and a member of the Thule Society. Drexler's wish was for a political party which was both in touch with the masses and nationalist. After World War I ended, Adolf Hitler returned to Munich. Having no formal education or career prospects, he tried to remain in the army for as long as possible.[4] In July 1919, he was appointed Verbindungsmann (intelligence agent) of an Aufklärungskommando (reconnaissance commando) of the Reichswehr to influence other soldiers and to infiltrate the DAP. While monitoring the activities of the DAP, Hitler became attracted to founder Anton Drexler's anti-Semitic, nationalist, anti-capitalist, and anti-Marxist ideas.[1] While attending a party meeting at the Sterneckerbräu beer hall on 12 September 1919, Hitler became involved in a heated political argument with a visitor, Professor Baumann, who questioned the soundness of Gottfried Feder's arguments against capitalism and proposed that Bavaria should break away from Prussia and found a new South German nation with Austria. In vehemently attacking the man's arguments, he made an impression on the other party members with his oratory skills and, according to Hitler, Baumann left the hall acknowledging unequivocal defeat.[5] Impressed with Hitler's oratory skills, Drexler encouraged him to join. On the orders of his army superiors, Hitler applied to join the party.[6] Although Hitler initially wanted to form his own party, he claimed to have been convinced to join the DAP because it was small and he could eventually become its leader.[7] My Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_Workers'_Party My Great Grandmother (who lost a 16 year old son - a Socialist, courtesy of the Nazi's), Grandmother, 2 Great Aunts, a Great Uncle (who was a Socialist and a guest of Hitler's Concentration Camp until the end of the war), Mother, Aunt and Uncle all survived Hitler's Germany. I guarantee you that not one of them, living or dead, shared/shares your delusion that Hitler and the Nazi's were either Socialist, Communist or Democrat. I suggest you speak to people that survived the hell of Nazi Germany before you present yourself as an expert on the subject.