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About FlatWing

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    1,000 Post Club!


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Surf Fishing, Surf Fly Fishing, Distance Casting
  1. I do not have a glass fly rod, but my two oldest are a 12/13 wt 2pc Fischer and a two piece 8wt Orvis, A long time ago, I divested myself of all the "hero cast" super stiff rods like the Redington Backwaters, in favor f a more moderate 1/3 to mid-flex blank. When I practice, I try to rotate rods for each session, and ideally practice with two of them, so as to develop the ability to adjust my stroke speed automatically to suit each rod. Initially, I practice one-handed only, putting my hauling hand in my pocket, and holding the line tight to the grip with my left hand. With this restriction, I first break down the cast into the front and backcast, allowing the line to fall to the ground at the end of each. When I am happy with my loops, I continue this for a spell with my eyes closed, concentrating on feeling the rod load and unload. The next phase is to combine the two halves of the cast, still one handed, repeat with closed eyes and then start to incorporate the haul. I learned this breakdown technique when Lefty Kreh did a demo at the Fly Hatch (now defunct for several years) in Shrewsbury, NJ on Rt. 35. I would note that the majority of my fishing occurs between midnight and dawn, so most of the time while fishing, I can not see my loops, and must depend on feel of the rod when casting. I also freely admit that my 2h casting needs a lot of work vis-a-vis developing a feel for the rod loading and unloading, so my loops can vary greatly between casts, especially when fear of hitting the rod with too tight a loop comes into psychological play. I would really like to spend some time with an Ocean or Monmouth county based experienced 2H caster critiquing me with the 2H. I was supposed to meet up with the owner of tight lines (I forget his name) very early in the year when he was passing thru on his return from Florida, but a storm put that idea to bed, and it is just too long of a drive for me anymore, what with the nerve damage in my legs.
  2. Examples of some Abrames Flatwing pattern hybrids for either very fast current or surface feeding fish
  3. If I ever had cause to go back to a portable Air Compressor, hands down I would choose the VIAIR 400P Automatic Portable Air Compressor - I blew out the seals on an MV50, back when I had my 1989 Jeep Cherokee Sport Edition, because the tire valve quick connect was not properly seated and popped off. I have had my current configuration - two 325c's and a 2.5 gallon tank since late 12/8/2009, so I cannot say enough about the VIAIR product reliability, which was further advanced when their compressors were made IP67 compliant in 2011.
  4. Beautiful work. We were doing the same mods to Luxors and Cracks before VS came into existence. A VS, especially the original internal weight design, was a copy of the Luxor without the soft brass sideplate screws (he used SS socket head cap screws - easy mod to a Luxor or Crack) and an anti-reverse roller clutch instead of the noisy clicker. I say Luxor because the Crack had a quick drag, while the Luxor had a standard drag with felt washers that are easily replaced by Penn Carbon Matrix drag washers (I used the ones for the MAG525). One thing I like about the clicker on my Luxors and Cracks is that it is an easy reminder to slow down the retrieve for Stripers. One note about packing the Penn Z's with grease - the more recent, gold spool z's have a plastic side plate, which does not prevent leakage - I have not seen him post in a number of years, but there was a fellow on SOL, local to Ocean County, NJ, who was, I believe associated with Tactical Anglers, who either made or knew of someone who made a Striper engraved replacement metal side plate for "Penn-Staal"ed 704 and 706Z reels. This is I believe the latest prior thread on this subject. 704z modification "Penn Staal" - Main Forum - SurfTalk (stripersonline.com) Pictures of my "staal"ed Luxor 300 circa 1949-1952 (does not have the folding handle). And later years Crack 300. Note that the side plate on the Luxor/Crack 300 design "cups" the reel body, preventing grease from leaking out/
  5. The only VS reels I have never owned were the VSB, VSX and the C-Vex Fly reel. The only reason I sold my Gold and Black non-fully USA made VS's was that I can no longer feel braid with the finger of my right hand, so I needed a bail. So I now own the VR 200, 175, and 125, as well as the current design VF12HD 12wt Fly Reel with an extra Spool for my 2H fly rods. I absolutely love VS reels, and with the exception of my Saragosa SW5000XG (with X-Protect), My Spinfisher VII 4500 and My Daiwa Emblem Surf 35 SCW QD (with mag seal), they are the only reels I use in the dark to plug or fly rod the beach, because I do not have to worry about the reel locking up after being hit by a wave while unhooking a fish. And yet, somehow, I never could justify spending the coin for VS pliers, opting to go with the pictured braid scissors, SS needle nose pliers in both the straight nose and the split ring nose, and the Sargent's that stay in the truck door cubbyhole (in their leather sheath that dates back to 1979). However, I must admit that I am on my second pair of Sargent's since 1979. .
  6. Curious as to what years you are talking about - My 2016 5th generation, like my 2004 4th generation, has a rear window that opens. From articles I have read, this was and is a big selling point for the 4Runners, as most of the other SUV's rear windows do not open. Picture is from Toyota's 2021 and 2022 4runner web pages - exterior photo gallery. FRN_MY20_0125_V001.webp
  7. I have been using WTP incorporated 3-D Molded Stick On Eyes for quite a while now - I buy from Brielle Bait and Tackle, but the company does sell to the public on-line. I mostly use the 3/8'' and 3/16 sizes, but they range from 1/8 to 3/4 inch for a total of 10 different sizes.
  8. surfrat: How did you seal the rivet nuts to prevent leakage and/or galvanic corrosion of the roof itself (assuming the rivet nuts are Stainless Steel or Aluminum, of course). I was thinking that well nut fasteners would be easier to seal with Permatex High Temperature (red) form-a-gasket. I used these for mounting items to my fenders inside the engine compartment when there was not a blind welded 8mm nut available. As a note on corrosion control vis-a-vis galvanic corrosion between the factory welded blind nuts (steel) and my SS 8mm fasteners, I found that Permatex aluminum anti-seize has given me the required protection since the start of my project in December 2015.
  9. Not sure where you are located, but if you ever want to get together and compare notes on "decent quality stuff" for use in modifying a 4-runner for Overland use on the beach, I would be happy to meet with a fellow "SOler". My cooler rack is entirely separate from the rod rack located behind it. The rod rack serves as the mounting point for a variety of ancillary system connections, such as auxiliary lights, solar panels, onboard battery charger, LED cooler illumination light and on-board air quick disconnects. The bottom mount point for the rod rack "clamps" the 2 inch male hitch tube, so the two tie-in flat rods provide lateral and fore-to-aft stabilization of the rod rack only, they have nothing to do with stabilizing the cooler rack or preventing it from "bending backwards". The Cooler Rack, which in its original, un-modified configuration was purchased NIB by me from Betty & Nicks B&T, was manufactured by Jersey Surf Products in 2005. All modification were fabricated and installed my either myself or a highly qualified professional machine shop in Pennsylvania, using either 6061-T6 Aluminum or 316 grade Stainless Steel. The rack has a riser frame underneath it, part of which is visible in the picture. The frame has both a left and right side rail assembly, tide together by a welded cross-frame that includes the 2 inch receiver male tube. The cooler rack is stabilized through the use of a hitch stabilizer and dual clevises located on the left and rich side, underneath the rack, The clevises are clamped to the Curt Hitch tow loops with Stainless Steel Keypin Locking Halyard Shackles. As a fellow 4-Runner owner, I thought you might be interested in some of the overlanding modifications I have made - roof rod rack, double interior rod racks, right and left Molle panels, interior drawer, dual compressors with tank, onboard water (left and right 3.5 gallon tanks with pump and filter) dual Start/Deep Discharge Marine batteries with SI-ACR charging relay and a variety of power/ground buses and control boxes containing switches, relays and terminal boards, On-Board Marine Battery Charger,1000 watt power inverter, auxillary LED driving, fog, rock, under hood, glove-box and reverse lights, custom installation of switches integrated into the stock dashboard cutouts, voltmeter and ammeter, conversion to LED of all interior, puddle, reverse and low-beam lights, and finally ( I think ) ARB Rear Differential and E-Lock breathers snorkeled into the engine compartment - see pictures.
  10. Thread closed due to lack of interest.
  11. There are several things you need to consider - proceed cautiously Is the mounting point for your rod rack structural - like a front hitch or tied into your frame? The quiver is 6061-T6 Aluminum, which is used to construct Aircraft Frames, so it is fairly heavy. The quiver will have a lot of aerodynamic resistance mounted in this way. Between the mass vibrating and subjected to aerodynamic drag, there will be significant forces on the mounting point of the rod rack - this can result in cracking of the welds (I am sure they are not post-weld heat treated, so they are at best 6061-T0 grade in the weld metal and heat affected zone of the base metal. In addition your fasteners can either loosen or crack. If you proceed, I would definitely tie in the rack to a structural croos member behind the grill to limit movement. On my 4th Gen and Now 5th Gen, I tied my rod rackto the structural cross member in front of the radiator The quiver will result in significant visibility obstruction while driving - it may earn you a safety violation from the constabulary Are you willing to drill into your roof to create a stabilizing structure? This is a very slippery slope that can result in significant leakage. Alternately, you can go with a thule rack, but then why not mount the quiver on the roof? I use a magnetic mount similar to the picture, but I modified the forward mount to hard mount into a receptacle in my rod rack. But, I do not trust this for street, much less highway driving - Murphy's Law
  12. Actually, I not only swim Flatwings on the 10 to 10.5ft one-hand rods in my quiver (including, now, once delivered, the Salmo #3), I also swim them almost exclusively in the surf with my 2H rods. My selection of "softer" one-hand rods for the back waters in my neck of the woods is driven by my neck issues, which have resulted in stenosis, which affects my right hand in particular, so it is very uncomfortable to mend line with the large wrist motion required with a broomstick. My "Flatwing" one-handers require slightly more than a flick of the wrist, and my 2 handers, while significantly more powerful (requiring from 450 to 550 grains to load in the cast) make mending easy because of the lever length and two hand mending operation. .
  13. Price reduced to $475 or b/o
  14. Ended up going with the RIO outbound short 375 grains (the new "premier" one) - I will primarily use this as a single hand, as I am used to my 10ft 6in St. Croix 9wt, 10ft TFO Pro 9wt and 10ft St. Croix 7wt. All of my 2H rods range from 12ft to 14ft 2in, so I think a 10ft 6in 2H would seem awkward to me, especially since I am used to a wide spread between my hands with either style (comes with being a bit more than skinny ). Thanks for your input. Al
  15. Steve: Which Line do you recommend for the Salmo Sax #3 - I am thinking of the Beluah Serum 350 grain total weight or the Rio Outbound Short Floating at 330 grains