FlatWing

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About FlatWing

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Surf Fishing, Surf Fly Fishing, Distance Casting
  1. Besides all the dead and their families on BOTH sides, feel sorry for the members of the 20 something population of Russia who could not defect like the technical and medical, etc. population that could. Those poor kids are suddenly finding out that Putin recreated everything bad about the Soviet Union, but none of the good (Socialist) programs that at least existed as part of Communism - instead, they are left with a totally bankrupt capitalist economy and a tanked currency. Sad to say, but at this point they would be better off economically if they were still communist, not to mention the fact that the Politiboro never would have let Putin pull this S++t. Unbelievable that we heaved a sigh of relief in the DoD when the Berlin wall fell, and now we are wondering every day if the nut jobs in Moscow will completely lose their minds that day.
  2. Definately 11' 9" - when the blank designer for All Star left over an intellectual property pursuit, he took his designs to work for Rainshadow. Unfortunately, All star owned the mandrels and their technical/manufacturing drawings, so he had to start over in that respect. As a result, although, like the All-Stars and Rainshadows of the same length/power designations were both progressive blanks, the Rainshadows just did not feel quite the same. Progressive blank means it loads starting with the tip, and, if you are a good enough caster to achieve lock-out with a pendulum or OTG cast, the rod beds over well past 90 degrees, deep into the butt just before release. But unlike a slow action blank, often given the misnomer as a progressive blank, a true progressive blank will recover just as quickly as a tip-flex fast action blank, and once straight, exhibits almost no tip quiver.
  3. ZA - I am building the TBNA33-405 - rated 2 to 10oz as a travel rod for trip to Mexico over the winter - I am using same KR guides with stripper of 40mm size and an Ultegra XSC 10000. Suggested layout? Stripper will be low as possible on the middle section. Iwill also will be using a Shimano sliding reel seat, since I am 6ft and my girlfriend is 5ft 5in. Not sure about her, but for me, the back edge of the hood of the reel seat will be positioned 32 inches from the butt. My Planned Guide Train is 40mm,30mm,25mm,16mm and 5x10mm. My standard 30lb PP spliced to 60lb PP hollow ace as I never intend to throw more than a 5oz storm or sputnick on an OTG Clip Down rig, and will mostly use it for Rooster Plugging in Mexico (2-3oz Metal and Poppers).
  4. 100% agree - I would still incorporate your "rain gutter brackets" using a t-bolt put into the tracksto tighten down the rain gutter brakets when you have them in the 'De Jour" position. On my 4-runner, I use extra-long hose clamps around the fore-to-aft OEM roof rack bars - extra length act as a deterrent to theft (too much time removal time) and allows me to adjust relative distance between rod rack pieces to accommodate new rod/refurbished rod guide position changes relative to the reel seat.
  5. Breakaway impact shield - Veals Mail Order Impact Shields - Bing video Video shows how to rig an original style impact shield - if you drag this on the ground during either a OTG or Uni-Tech cast, the shield will be pulled to pulled down towards the sinker and release the hook before the sinker starts to come around. The wire "lock" on the OTG shield prevents this from happening, and the shield only releases the hook upon vertical impact with the water. Therefore, with either shield, a high arc cast release is required - a flat arc cast will not release the hook when it hits the water.
  6. While ideally designed, in terms of guide placement, for a parallel foot LC reel, your Daiwa BG will work with a Shimano Tiralejo TRS110HA (ask me how I know). Rated 3-6oz, 11ft length. I am quite fond of storm, frog's tongue and sputnik sinkers, in order of holding ability at a lighter weight, as power casting anything heavier that 6oz makes my spinal injuries kick my butt. The storm and frog's tongue can be used with both clip down and fish finder rigs, and the sputnik works very well with a variety of clip-downs rigs. There is now available from Breakaway UK a "OTG Cast" impact shield, so know clip down rigs do not require a pendulum or Hatteras cast to load the rod. These clips work so well for me on the beach that I converted all my origiinal style impact shields to the OTG configuration. without the bead directly emulates the red Breakaway OTG shield.
  7. I can see using clips with flies that you are not trying to swing with a greased line mend (basically a cast and strip), if you need to go deep, or if you are dealing with a vicious current. Indeed I tied some e-z body spreader bunker flies using Ferrar Blend that I deliberately weight and keel for these situations. But the use of a clip in the scenario that Steve is presenting will prevent a gurgler, foam slider, foam popper, crease fly or flatwing from doing what it is intended to do - suspend or float on the surface. Even if you use a clip that is so light as to prevent the fly from sinking, it will still change its attitude from level to nose down, which will impede its intended action. the only possible exception would be a heavily spun deer hair fly, coated with flotant.
  8. Again, every SportCast USA competition I was in included allowed for spinners using the same test mono as conventionals - this is also true of USKF competitions - the video I posted was from Italy. SportCast USA mono minimums were 100g - 6lb test, 125g - 8lb test, 150g and 175g - 10lb test. I am not triggered - I just like to do the site justice by correcting misinformation when I see it - many OP's are looking for new information - our obligation is to not respond with misinformation or statements of fact that are not based on fact/personal knowledge. As far as I know, Mark Edwards still owns the USA Record for spinning and Danny Oskops still owns the USKF World Record for Spinning.
  9. My (recently deceased) friend Al gave me a large bag of guides from that era - I will see if I can help you today, but I will need until next week to send them out if I do.
  10. Anyone who says this has never been to a distance casting competition. 265 m - INCREDIBLE CAST WITH DIAMOND SURFCASTING ROD - YouTube Once upon a time all my competitive casting, plugging and bait-and-wait fishing was conventional, unless I was on a sandbar at night, which is why I started with "staaled" Cracks and Luxors, and then graduated to VS's. My conventional surf pluggers were ABU 6500ct's, and my backwater conventionals were ABU 6500cs's with 6 to 9 bearings, depending on the model, and calcutta 400's. For bait-and-wait it was either ABU 7000ct (sharking) or Penn Mag 525, both modified for several minute run times with mags full off. Eventually, 15 years of "Iron Hand" training (old-school Okinawan Karate and Chinese Boxing) caught up to my right thumb, and with the left leg about 50% titanium and absolutely no cartilage in the right knee, the old VS's were retired or sold and mostly replaced with LC spinners for night plugging from dry sand, and my nighttime bait-and-wait fishing. I also switched to almost 100% LC Spinners while I was still competing on the field with SportCast USA. Look at EDM and JDM websites for surf LC reels -both Shimano and Daiwa have quite the selection in the UK, France and Australia, to mention a few - note that they are sold under "sea" and "coarse" categories in Europe. Some of the "Big Pit" Carp reels apply if they have water intrusion protection (X-Protect for Shimano and Mag-seal for Daiwa). As regards plugging, the Penn Spinfisher VI LC in 5500 and 6500 sizes, Shimano 5500 and Daiwa 25 and 35 sizes work well. I still love my conventional reels, especially for working bucktails, shad and metal, but even on a good thumb day, I cannot hold the spool against more than 5oz with the right thumb while executing a power cast, so I can only do plugging or light bait-and-wait with a high reel position. I prefer conventional for bait-and-wait but have to cast low reel and then relocate the reel up to sand spike/fighting position using either a century sliding reel seat or a second plate-type reel seat (because it has quick clips). So far I have been lucky and never been caught getting hit with the reel in low position. I have gone to 100% LC spinners for bait-and-wait at night, because my night vision for picking the occasional conventional bird nest is NG since I wear started wearing progressive trifocals, even with the red neck light.
  11. NJ There are commercially available drawers - I mostly have used Ironman 4x4 products, but I did not get their drawers because my best friend (whom I suddenly lost just 2 weeks ago) wanted to make one for me - he loved wood working and had a very extensive shop. He also custom sized mine to allow mounting of my twin ViAir compressors, 2.5 gallon Air Tank. water pump and water filter on the top, while still being able to slide my stock deck out underneath my lower internal rod rack. Not the best picture, but I will take more when I empty the truck out in a few weeks for its annual service.
  12. respectfully offer $800.00 PP for the lot
  13. I own a 2016 $Runner Trail edition - not clear on what you want to do - are you looking to stretch bungees across the floor of the rear deck or between the side panels at the back? Which model 4Runner do you have? does it have the sliding rear deck? To remove the panels, you need a "panel removal tool kit" I bought the Kohree 32 piece panel removal tool kit - use it all the time, but my 4Runner is extensively modified as an Overlander. My own approach to this was to use molle panels - this is a whole different discussion. This write up is not mine (disclaimer) but is copied from the Toyota 4Runner,org forum: As I stated earlier - many thanks to all who helped me see the error of my ways. Below is a recap of what I learned and my install. 1. Don't use toggle bolts. You'll need to make a very large hole in the side panel and the backside of those panels have a variety of things behind them - from metal frame to ridges of plastic to fasteners, etc. Thankfully other uses guided me away from toggle bolts. 2. Do buy a trim removal tool kit - It's very good use of $10. 3. What's behind panels and their backside structure varies from one side of the vehicle to the other. Pull both before you determine where you want your holes so you can have even/symmetrical placement. So - here's what I ended up with - and am very happy: I utilized this trim kit: (cannot post link) I utilized these tie downs - The D-ring area is about an inch, they are solid, and importantly - the D-Ring doesn't rattle. (cannot post link) While the kit comes with screws, I wanted something a bit longer since I needed a fender washer, and a lock washer, in addition to the nut. I picked up some 1/4" diameter machine screws in both 1" and .75" lengths. I ended up using the 1" length due to the structure on the back side of the panel - you'll see that below in one of the pics. This was my first time taking off panels but it's pretty simple. Insert tool, make a gap, and wiggle your tool until you hear a clip pop open. I should state, I didn't TECHNICALLY take off any panels, i just unfastened enough clips and screws to get the access I needed. I unscrewed the screw inside of the cargo cover indentation. Just pop off the cover and it's a phillips. I unfastened the 3-4 clips on the top of the panel and then I removed the plastic "T" tie down right near the tailgate. Just a quarter turn and it pops out. Again, there is a phillips screw underneath. Once I had the top of the panel loose I pulled it back to see what was behind it (a small Maglite comes in handy here). I had three considerations for where to place the tie downs/drill the hole: 1. Where would the tie down be convenient. For me, I wanted it somewhat it in the middle of the cargo area (front to back), and ideally wanted something to be able to sit in the wheel well tray and also be tied down. 2. What is behind the panel in that location. The fender washer I chose was big to maximize surface area and thus strength of the tie down. This, however, makes install in a couple spots tricky given where metal or clips are located. 3. I wanted to leverage the structure on the back of the panel for strength -- although I didn't originally anticipate this being a need. You'll see from the pics I chose a spot where the fender washer would spread over three "ridges" (left, right, and bottom). Once i picked a spot, the question was how to replicate the location on both sides so it was symmetrical. I knew I wanted to use masking tape over the drilling area so I didn't damage the finish of the panel, so I just used a couple pieces as my measuring guide. The vertical piece of tape in the pic is aligned with the ridge on the back of the panel. I then placed the fender washer over the tape so one side hit the edge of the masking tape (and the ridge), and the bottom edge of the tape (and the bottom ridge). This ensured I hit all three ridges and had maximum support. I did use a measuring tape just to validate. Note: Drilling into a panel for the first time will raise your heart rate and make you sweat! Once I had the hole drilled I added the washer, the lock washer and the nut. On the side with the jack, the panel comes out further and you can easily use your fingers to tighten. On the side with the cubbie, I had to use a needle nose pliers to hold the nut. Be careful not to drop the needle nose or you'll be taking out a LOT more clips to go find it. With the nut tightened and being satisfied with everything I reassembled. I started with the two screws on either end and worked my way to the middle. The clips pop back in easily. *
  14. For the regular smucks doing the actual work, violation of confidential can, under the right circumstances, land your ass in Leavenworth, but definitely gets your ass terminated with loss of pension. One of my more interesting experiences was I needed to gather heat data and was told it was verboten, model it and use the output without empirical verification. Less than a week later, a YTvideo popped up in which the "forbidden area" was clearly shown, and not just for a minute - never heard of anyone's ass in a sling, probably because some local Politician put it up there as a "Look how great my district is" banner. Not up anymore, so someone must have realized the screwed they pooch.