BST Users
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About FlatWing

  • Rank
    Elite Member


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Surf Fishing, Surf Fly Fishing, Distance Casting
  1. Picture below shows mod on one of my 6500 C3 reels
  2. Penn squall, unfortunately, has received some less than favorable reviews comparing it to the original 525 Mag. Note that the squall is marked in Europe as the 525 Mag 3 and the 515 Mag 3. You might want to look at the Pimp My Reel (or PMR) review on You Tube. The modern day Abu 7000's are all made in China. In terms of line capacity, the Squall 15 compares to an Abu 6500, and the ABU 7000 holds considerably more line of the same diameter than a Squall 25. If you have your heart set on an ABU, and you are satisfied with the line capacity of a squall 15, then I would recommend the new, made in Sweden 6500 Blue Yonder, if you can live without a level wind. If you need a level wind, I recommend that you look at the Akios reels (they are designed by an engineer that left ABU after Pure Fishing bought the company). They have models that have level wind, mag cast control, and a bait clicker, all in one reel.
  3. John: I still have this reel available, I opened the thread to accommodate someone who contacted me off someone else's WTB thread (inadvertent hijacking on their part) but closed it because we could not agree on a price. It is yours for $570.00 shipped insured to MA..
  4. I've never fished Monomoy, but depth is not a function of head weight, rather it is a function of head density - a 300gr sinking head will be of less diameter than a 300gr intermediate head, which is in turn of lesser diameter than a 300gr floating head. Within the realm of sinking heads, there is then increasing sink rate, and thus less diameter/greater density, as the T rating increases numerically. More cost effective to loop on a different head to your running line that it is to buy a whole new Fly Rod/Reel/line system. Only reason to increase line/head weight is to fight the wind.
  5. Perhaps you were thinking about the RPLX vs the RPLXi - former is 2 piece. latter is 3 piece. Former has slower recovery than latter, but was also better for classic Fly Fishing techniques such as mending into a drift. Latter (which I have) in 10wt is an excellent shooting head rod for throwing things like wet Grocery Flies.
  6. Cyprian: A couple of suggestions: I would look at some of the European Carbon Carp Rods, probably in the 2.50 to 3.00 Test Curve - these tend to be rated for 4oz max (approx. 113gm). The competitive carp casters over there exceed 200ft by an immense amount with a Overhead Thump Cast. Century has the Graphene, Masters Range and Long Range series. Daiwa has an international Carp Tackle line here in the US that is sold by Bass Pro Shops. I own and highly recommend their Tournament Basia Long Cast Reel, but can not make any recommendation on theirs or Century's Carp rods, as I have not yet ventured into this arena. As another option, I built a Century Slingshot HJ144, marketed overseas as the Century NSure (inshore sea) - it is also rated 1-4 oz. Back in 2012, having rigged it with a Van Stall 250 (model prior to the VSX series, which has much better line lay). 30lb Power Pro and a 65lb Braid Shock Leader, I managed to throw a 3oz Metal 351ft using a Uni-Tech Cast, measured on a field during a Sport Cast USA tournament. At the time I had a loose prosthetic left knee, and my entire Lumbar Spine is herniated, so I am sure this rod has a 200ft potential, especially with a Long Cast Spinning Reel. ZZiplex recently introduced the Primo Match - it is 13ft, rated for 150gm (170gm max), and has, as I recall, a Fiberglass (s-Glass?) tip section, so you have the butt section casting power and the increased tip sensitivity for the small fish normally caught during Match Tournaments. Hope this helps.
  7. Mineral Oil does not evaporate, and does not affect the buoyancy of the plug as much, as it is less dense than water. I cannot remember the cc's I use, as I gradually add oil until I hit my target weight on a scale - 1oz (w/o hardware) for 5inch Redfins, 1 1/2 oz for 7inch Redfins. I have never loaded anything else, but have been thinking about loading Redfin Pencils.
  8. Anytime a fish is held vertically, regardless of species, its internal organs sag down toward the vent. This can result in twisting of the digestive track, and thus eventual death. This is of increasing risk with size, as the stomach is heavier. A stomach full of food is even heavier still. When holding the fish horizontally, support the stomach just forward of the vent. Disagree with the prior statement of not bait fishing. Safest C&R is to bait fish with in-line circle hooks that have crushed barbs, and to use heavy tackle that will allow you to keep tension on the fish and end the fight quickly. So the rod, drag, retrieve speed (inches of line per handle crank) and line strength come into play. By the way, as an added measure, all of my non-fly fishing gear is rigged with either a braid or mono shock leader of at least 40lb test. No matter theplug, there is no justification for more than one belly hook. I replace the front treble with a 4x (crushed barbs), and the tail is either a flag or a single hook (siwash or in-line, as applicable) again with crushed barbs, All of my tins have a single hook with crushed barbs. Both my single hooks and all of my fly/teaser hooks are crushed before they are put in the tying vise. This has been my practice since 1992. It is my belief that the greatest damage has been done to the big breeders by the snag and drop tackle store/social media hero's. Anyone who thinks they can release a bass that has been gut hooked by a 10/0 weighted treble is fooling themselves - and no, cutting the line will not rectify the situation. I started surf fishing in 1976 up in Breezy Point/Fort Tilden - we clipped on 3oz Pichneys or Gibbs pencils when the big bunker showed up - the way we saw it, snag and drop was one level below the googans using "idiot plug" minnow lures. By the way, I have what is probably a 6/0 snag hook with crushed barbs - I keep it handy for trying to snag a plug when it breaks off, since it (the plug) always has at least 41/2 ft of terminal leader attached, and sometimes most, if not all of the shock leader as well. But I never try to snag a break off during a Blitz. Someone mentioned bucktail/lead head jigs - safe for the fish if (1) crushed barbs (anyone detecting a theme?) and sized down. I remember seeing one of the "kill them all so my club wins the interclub tournament" old timers trying to remove a "custom" lead head from the brain of a rat, all the while saying he hates to hurt the little ones. The clown couldn't figure out that a 10/0 barbed jig hook would do a lobotomy on the fish....
  9. Keeping in mind that I pour, powder coat and tie my bucktails - Preferred Head Types: Since I do not fish rocky areas like Montauk and North, I favor sparsely tied Bucktails ("read a newspaper thru the hair" standard) and either the Smilin' Bill head for bottom bouncing or the Spro Head for swimming. Before you ask, I use the Smilin' Bill to bounce the bottom because I often find that when the line comes tight and the bucktail starts to traverse the Canal, the face imparts a swimming action to the bucktail that Striper's lurking in the middle, or on my side of the canal, will come off their perch and attack. On the beach. or during the top/bottom of the tide when the current dies down. I swim the Spro head. Preferred Colors: Blurple at night with a black Femeel trailer. White or Olive over White in the day with clear water and either a natural Femeel trailer or a white Twisty Tail. If the water is murky, regardless of time of day, I will go to either a Green Chartreuse over Yellow Chartreuse over White, or a Yellow over White, the former with a green with green sparkle chartreuse twisty tail, and the latter with a yellow twisty tail. Type of Hair: For 1oz and smaller heads, I go with Saltwater grade Bucktail and add Krystal Flash along the midline. For 1 1/2oz to 3oz heads, I high tie Natural Yak Hair and add Krystal Flash along the midline.
  10. If you are not locked into Domestic and want Long Cast Performance, you may want to look into the Shimano Big Baitrunner LC Big Pit Reels. Mine is rather old, but has been very reliable for me since sometime around 2011. I use it casting 150gm & a bunker chunk on my Zziplex Full Tourney 14ft rod and 6oz and a bunker head on my 12ft St. Croix Premier Heaver. The former sees casts from a fishing pendulum and down and the latter I restrict to OTG, Uni-Tech or Hatteras Cast. Either Way, the reel is subjected to a pretty high load just prior to release. As for fish landed, largest was a 5ft or so Brown Shark off the beach. The reels are marketed as Big Pit in the UK, and are available with an aluminum or CI4+ body.
  11. Bobby and I are using Tuffleye CORE, which is sold in the only Ocean County B&T that still sells such things for fly tying. Others might sell things like bucktail and strung hackles, but do not get into the "nuts and bolts" of tying. Whenever possible, I purchase from the local shops. Tuffleye actually has a specific Top Coat, but Hard as Nails is somewhat more economical. I ask my wife to buy it - saves on weird looks and extended explanations.
  12. You couldn't be more right. Hell, they've been screwing around with sand dunes since early 2013 and still haven't finished. I figure that by the time they finish pouring the last wall, the first couple will be falling apart from salt incursion.
  13. My PB's were always with 100gm and 125gm. I stopped even trying with 175gm, since every time I did, my spine wanted to choke me to death . My history kind of went like this - started in 2006, left knee became so bad that I had to stop field casting after 2008 (could still cast on sand). Total left knee replacement March 2010, walked on the field in October and hit 525ft with OTG and 125gm. Infection with 103 degree F fever 3 days before Thanksgiving 2010 put me down until Jan 2011. Doctor too stupid to realize knee pain was due to loose prosthetic, not my back. 2014 - finally found a new Doctor and, after 9 hr surgery, I have a new titanium ball joint prosthetic that replaces 1/2-1/3 of my femur and tibia. Now I'm cooking, but no more tournaments closer than Washington DC, so I have no idea what distance I can hit now . I should train a seagull to fly out to my sinker with a tape measure.
  14. hI do not remember if, in his latest book, Bob Popovics uses Alcohol or Acetone, but afterward he coates with Hard as Nails. I use acetone and ten coat with Hard as Nails, which restores shine to surface..
  15. There was a prior thread on this in which I posted a link to the Army Corp of Engineers Proposals for several mitigation structures that are absolute barriers of steel and concrete. Unfortunately, I could not find it. In summary, they are working off the Sandy Storm surge height, and proposing 14ft above mean high tide structures. This includes a five mile wall from Sandy Hook to Queens with a flood gate that will open for shipping, but not fish migration, as well as another in the Long Island sound where it necks down to enter the Hudson (Great Bay?). The really interesting part of the proposal that twists the mind is literally 100's of miles of 14ft high walls along the waterways - so in the Manasquan Proposal, what is now an accessible seawall and jetty to the end of the inlet would transform into a 14ft high steel and concrete wall from the Flood Gate Base to at least the 20ft high Dune, if not the end of the Jetty itself. Carrying this further, picture the walls of the Point Pleasant Canal as a 14ft high wall. Barnegat Inlet? 14ft high steel and concrete wall. Do you live on a cove where you dock your boat? Your view will be a 14ft high (above mean high tide) steel and concrete wall. No one is talking about loss of access to your dock. or for that matter, what marina's are supposed to do. Need I go on? If I owned a tackle store near an inlet where folks fish, I would definitely be giving serious thought to an exit strategy. The part of all this that really tickles my sense of political irony is that the AOC is looking for 10's if not 100's of billions of dollars commencing sometime around 2028, to mitigate, per their statements in the proposal, sea level rise due to Global Warming. But wait for it...the AOC is part of the DoD, which is part of the Executive Branch, which is under the White House, which denies the existence of Global Warming. You gotta love it. Link for Hudson River Area Report: https://www.nan.usace.army.mil/Portals/37/docs/civilworks/projects/ny/coast/NYNJHAT/NYNJHAT Interim Report - Main Report Feb 2019.pdf?ver=2019-02-19-165223-023 Link for the rest of NJ Report: https://www.nap.usace.army.mil/Missions/Civil-Works/New-Jersey-Back-Bays-Coastal-Storm-Risk-Management/ Table from Hudson River Area Report: