SSPey

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About SSPey

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  • What I do for a living:
    scientist

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    N.E. then ... PNW now
  1. You can do it by hand with sandpaper. I built a cheap wood stand to hold a regular drill for rod building. I attach a 2” piece of dowel to the butt section ferrule with tape (lengthwise, then spiral), chuck up the dowel, and either place the taped-over reel seat on another stand OR have a friend hold it, then sand it down. Sketchy, but hasn’t failed me yet.
  2. I wiggled an 8 wt Recon and Axiom 2-X the other day, side by side, and the Axiom was a little bit heavier but not a ton. Wiggling is a crappy test and I can’t answer whether that extra swing weight was due to a stronger tip section (which for me, is an ok compromise for my preferences) or if it was just plain heavier.
  3. Frustrating, but there’s no reason to expect all rod series to load identically with the same line. Rods are often developed for certain niches or consumer groups. Many rod makers will tell you exactly which line they used during rod development, and the optimum distances targeted … just have to ask. Same thing applies to fish fighting. Some “advanced” casting rods lack good butt strength to lift heavy fish. It is more than simple butt stiffness - it is the graphite type and layup, ability to handle stress. We’re lucky to have so many choices, but it does come down to “buyer beware” and internet forums like this can be great for getting real world input and for sorting through options.
  4. I doubt you will find many 10 wts that perform optimally in real 10 wt fishing with 300 grains in the purest sense, meaning, a 300 grain head on a shooting line, with no additional flyline in the guides. This doesn’t mean the rod is mislabeled. Instead, the line standards were developed using longer heads, where even at 30’ casting, there is additional line mass in the guides and tip top, adding load. The line standards were not developed with shooting heads in mind, so when talking about matching shooting heads to rods, there is little point in adhering strictly to AFTMA/AFFTA standards.
  5. Like all reels, be sure to back off the drag tension when not in use. A friend‘s original Loop 3W took a “set” while in storage, where the 3 rollers contacted the spool, making for decidedly un-smooth performance thereafter.
  6. 300 grains is not a 10 wt for a shooting head like the Airflo Depth Finder, which has a very short 30’ head. Line standards were developed with double taper and then weight forward lines that were longer than 30’ and where in saltwater weights it was universally known that the caster would be working more than 30’ in normal fishing. The 30’ standard was merely a uniform convenience for weighing at a fixed length (more suitable to trout) and certainly not a recommended head length for fishing in saltwater. Short 30’ heads like the Airflo Depth Finder, Rio Outbound, etc have always performed better at grains 2-3 line weights above AFFTA specs.
  7. My first albie was hooked on a Lamson LP series (their original), known for drag failures, which similarly resulted in total freespool and a palm-burning battle. But being a disc drag reel, it was of course superior to a spring-pawl design, even in freespool, so I was able to land mine.
  8. I have used Yakima ski racks for 20+ years with no problems, including bone-jarring logging roads and highway speeds. It works just to have 2 bars on the cab, rod tips pointed back. A friend of mine setup a rod holder that was held by the hood of his truck, he’d open the hood, insert the rod holder, and close the hood to hold it (for rod butts), then tips back to a magnetic holder on the cab roof. I haven’t seen him in a few years but will see if I can get a pic.
  9. PS. ... I fish a lot for chinook out west, and a floating line (no matter the make or weight) has *very* limited utility
  10. Broken record, but owned and fished one of these lines ... the specs are deceiving. First, the line is not as long as the numbers suggest. The length includes a long rear taper, so the line is effectively 10’ shorter than advertised in terms of working length. Rear taper sits in the guides. More short- than mid-belly Second, grains don’t lie, but line weights do! These Hardy lines are rated high, as usual with UK lines. The 11 wt is more like a 9/10 wt is US spey rod conventions. This is typical for UK vs US spey ratings, plus some rear taper grains are sitting in the guides, not doing much. Still too heavy for what you may need, but perhaps worth knowing that the 11 wt is not what we’re used to. It’d cut nicely to a shooting head for stronger work, removing the forward 5-10’ of very fine forward taper line and also removing the rear 10’. Suddenly that 55’ line fishes like a 35’ head. Again, numbers on the box don’t tell the full story. Beware strict number crunching! It is a very smooth turnover line as built, but if you want to throw bricks, cut it back to suit.
  11. I have owned one of those. That’s a line for two-handed (spey) rods, salmon as in Atlantic salmon in rivers. That one has a fairly fine forward taper, smooth casting, best suited to smaller flies. Not a salty line.
  12. For casting foot-long flies all day, consider a two-hander, to minimize fatigue.
  13. to elaborate on the “how” of steelhead fishing. 3 main methods are: 1. Indicators (i.e., bobbers). The most productive and easiest way to get into steelhead, on average. You see the bobber pause or dive, and set the hook. Lots of misses, definitely the most fishes, though no feel of the grab. Best used: anywhere, just adjust your bobber. Bring: your sister, for a smooch 2. Chuck and duck. This is a form of “drift fishing” (gear term) that uses mono and lead weight to tick the bottom. You’ll feel the grab, no fish is a rock. Best used: shallower waters, with repeat lob casts to known hotspots. Bring: helmet 3. Swing. An arcane method of wet fly swing, hope, tweed, groove, and futile devotion. Every bump or grab is part of the endless mindgame, but you’ll know when the fish eats. Best used: in more open runs in a warming afternoon, when a fish will move to eat. Bring: fortitude
  14. Also consider how you want to fish (chuck and duck, bobber, swing, etc), as some guides may have “their” specific program more dialed than others.
  15. Danielssons are proven on big game, tarpon, sails, even bluefin. They have a 3-point spool attachment that is very secure, not a cheap spring-latch that fails. $500-600 reels at half-price direct sales. I have several Tibors but use my Danielssons more often for their light weight.