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About Micropteris

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  1. If you don’t need evergreen it’s tough to beat hayscented fern. Takes wet or dry and is native. It competes pretty well against weeds.
  2. Looks good. Skip the sealant in the future. I don’t think it will be a big detriment to those small wounds. They should heal quickly with or without the paint. Keep the lower branches on that new leader for a few years. They aid in caliper development and overall stem strength. You may be chasing suckers for a few years until that stem gets big enough to feed the larger root system.
  3. There are a couple directions you could go depending on what you want it to be when bigger. All are based on your preference more so than the needs of the tree. You could keep it as a multi stem and have a broad 3 stem tree. I have seen some big majestic multi stem tulip trees in my travels. In that case cut the old dead leader off as close to the live stems as you can and they will over grow the wound pretty quickly. The other option would be to cut everything to the most vigorous sprout and let that be a single leader. The way it’s growing now that one leader would always keep a slight bend and the tree wouldn’t be pin straight, which is perfectly acceptable. That is how I would treat this if my tree. You may need to keep up with removing additional sprouts for a few years until the one large one is big enough to maintain the larger root system. But as I sell trees, many get refused if not perfectly straight. If that curve would bother you and you would want a pin straight trunk I would leave about 5 or 6 feet of the old stem and use that as a temporary stake and use it to pull the best sprout over and tie it 4 or 5 spots along the stem from the tip to the ground. Remove all the other smaller sprouts and focus all the attention on that one. Check the ties every couple months and loosen as needed to keep them from girdling or strangling the new shoot, the one downside of staking. After a couple years cut the old stem off as close to the live wood of the new shoot as possible. You want the new shoot to overgrow the old cut, in 10 or so years you won’t see any signs of the old stem. If you wanted to cut the old stem completely off now and start the heal over you could use a heavy tomato stake to do the same but it won’t be as sturdy as the existing dead stem and you may need to reset every strong wind. I have done all of the above with trees and it boils down to your preference.
  4. It’s Cedrus. The single needles on spurs are the key. Larch does the same but the needles would be gone this time of year. Not blue enough to be Blue Atlas. Tough to tell from the photos whether deodara or libanii. I suspect deodara. The needles on deodara are longer and tree shape keeps a single leader ( which the photo shows)vs multiple dominant leaders of the other species.
  5. I have the 15 and it’s a great boat. I’ve had it since 98. The wooden boards on the stern need to be replaced but the hull is still in great shape after being stored outside for most of its life. Downside is it’s a little heavy, I think around 100 pounds but it’s pretty rugged. I can put it on my back by myself to carry but most others can’t. Other than that I’ve taken it all over the place. When alone, I sit in the middle seat and row with the oars and it cruises with very little effort. It has two sets of oar locks from the factory so you can row from the middle or front seat. In the middle seat I don’t have to worry about ballast to keep the bow down in the wind when I’m alone in the boat. I’ve had a 5 hp gas motor on it with three big guys in the boat and it still feels pretty safe. I stand up in it all the time to fish when I’m in the middle seat. I fish a lot of rivers so I have the anchor trolley with the self locking foot that clips onto the front handle so I can anchor without needing to leave the middle of the boat when I want a break. I will say it’s a pretty big sail when strapped onto the roof of a smaller vehicle on a windy day. My old explorer changed lanes on its own a few times on a windy day on the highway.
  6. I would put some serious thought in the need for the backhoe attachment. Save the money and use it to rent a mini excavator for the few times you’ll need it. The small hoe is a fun toy but not very practical to get work done. The backhoe seriously limits the versatility of the smaller tractors. Lots of implements that you can rent for use on a 3 point hitch with a PTO that wouldn’t be an option with the hoe. The list keeps getting bigger every year for power attachments. Get the forks, you’ll end up using them more than the bucket to move stuff around. They are a lot safer for odd shapes and big items that won’t fit in a small bucket. Get a good dark cover to keep the machine out of the sun, lots of plastic on the newer machines. Really durable at first until the solar radiation gets to them after a few years and they get brittle, especially the seats.
  7. I really like the original fireline in 6lb. It’s a little stiffer than the other braids. I tried the crystal once and after 5 casts losing two plugs I pulled if off my reel never to use again. The original is like steel cable. I am also really careful about keeping an eye on a sloppy cast to make sure a lazy loop doesn’t end up over the top of the spool to prevent wind knots.
  8. As I haven’t used mono for anything other than a leader in the last 20 years, I am out of the loop in good modern monofilament to use as a mainline. Last time I used mono it felt like I was using a rubber band to fish with and didn’t really enjoy it. I am looking to switch my 9 year old from a push button spincaster over to a spinning setup for his birthday. I let him use mine a couple times this past summer and realized he cast better with it than his spin fisher. I am looking to get him a 6 ft ugly stick lite and shop around for a lower midrange reel that isn’t junk for lines 6-8 lb test. I don’t want top of the line as he would rather chase fish with a dip net and God knows how it will be stored at his mother’s house. But he likes throwing plugs so I want to get him a setup he won’t be frustrated with. So what’s a good mono that is easy to work with for a beginner yet won’t come off the reel like a cold slinky?
  9. If this is a new house to you I suspect that the previous owner flagged the two shutoffs to use with the red ribbon, one to kill the water and the other to get rid of it. I have all the important valves tagged at our Maine house to drain the water after the pump is shutoff for when it isn't me winterizing it.. As mentioned the upper valve with the ribbon looks like it is setup for a blow out. For a little piece of mind seeing as you probably aren't there for the winter I would drop a high-low thermometer right there to see how cold it actually gets where the shut off is. That will let you know in subsequent years how vigilant you will need to be about where the shut off will need to be.
  10. Describe light irrigation. This was a whicked year for growing anything. The south and mid Atlantic spent the summer under water and here in New England it was one of the worst droughts on record. Mature well established plants were burning up. Depending on where you’re at you could be over irrigating or not enough. Interior foliage going off color now is normal the tips turning brown on the other hand are not. If you are trying to use lawn sprinklers to water and spraying it everyday for a short period dead tips are a typical symptom as the plant really isn’t getting enough water where it needs it but just enough to promote foliage disease. It’s usually noticeable on the lower foliage where the sprinkler spray hits. Tip burn could be caused by pool chemicals if your neighbor is backwashing his filter towards the hedge. I have seen that damage quite often. When it comes to supplemental water and needs it’s best to stick your fingers into the soil and have a feel. A small hole along side with a trowel and see what the ground feels like and smells like will go a long way with determining needs. Bone dry soil may require a long deep soak with water. Soil that stinks or smells like vinegar means way too much water had been applied and roots and organic matter are rotting. You may also get a whiff of pool chemical if that’s an issue. I had more rain in October this year than June, July, August, and September combined and my soil is still powdery when I dig into it right now.
  11. If your getting a poor flower set you may be getting frosted out in the spring. If you are in a hollow you are more prone to this. The orchards around me on hillsides make out okay as the cold air doesn’t get a chance to settle but the ones in the hollows need to frost protect with ice or get frosted out. Another possibility is you are getting apple scab pretty bad and the fruits are aborting. If that’s the case you aren’t going to be able to fix that without spraying. Too much rain and humidity in the north east to grow good fruit without it. Apples don’t really need a lot in terms of fertility. High fertility rates stimulate more vegetation and less flower set. Timing can influence winter hardiness and lead to dead flower buds that weren’t able to harden off.
  12. Besides proper tension look for the rod with the widest pads at the end you can find to increase the surface area in contact with the wall. Also the longer the span the tougher it is to get good tension on the rod without it flexing. Went through this at my folk’s old house. Ended up just getting a sliding rod with clips screwed in the wall due to the whirlpool tub and its associated hardware.
  13. A directed application of Roundup will work. Not sure how much of a glyphosate fan you are but a high dose of 4-5 oz per gallon of H2O with a sponge type applicator to wipe just the oak leaves sticking up over the turf will get the pesticide down into the roots without impacting the turf underneath, as long as you don’t drip. They sell a sponge applicator that looks like a hockey stick, where you fill the pvc tube handle with chemical or you can go the homemade route and use a sponge mop and bucket, just be careful not to put too much liquid on and ring well so you don’t drip. Any drips will result in dead spots. Oaks are tough, you may need a couple rounds to kill the stumps outright. Any broadleaf herbicide should work eventually as well. Just weekly mowing will eventually take out the oaks in time, if you want to go sans chemical.
  14. Another vote for a bunch of snap traps to make an immediate reduction then a bucket trap for long term maintenance. The bucket will also get squirrels and chipmunks and other undesirables if they are getting in. The beauty of the bucket is you just dump to empty. In the winter a little antifreeze in the water keeps it effective.
  15. I would try a local glass company no matter the manufacturer if you can find one, unless you are trying to get a warranty claim which I doubt will qualify with a stone. I tried the hunt for the manufacturer route and got nowhere with a coupe broken windows. It turned out to be a pretty easy process for the local small company. I have had to replace a couple double pane windows where just one panel broke. They measure and need to get a new sealed unit fitted. They cleaned out all the broken glass and sent me home with the single pane window until the new sealed piece arrived and then brought it back for them to fit it in. Both panes need to get replaced in the existing frame as it’s a sealed panel to keep the moisture out. The price was a lot cheaper than getting a whole new window that would need to get custom made anyway. If you have the ability to pop out the door and bring it to them to measure that would be the cheapest option or have them come out to measure and reinstall. Which is probably the best option for the slider. it was one of a very few times I didn’t regret that I paid someone else for it and didn’t do it myself.