wasabi_VA

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About wasabi_VA

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  1. I recently bought the Garmin Striker 4CV (with ClearVu) and all the accessories/parts to mount it in my hull with putty. At the last minute somebody on another forum shared that the 4CV transducer will not work with an in-hull putty mount, and I admit I was skeptical about whether this was something he did wrong or if it was true. I called Garmin and they confirmed this CV transducer will not work with a hull barrier. So at least I figured that out before I did my putty job and drilled a hole for the wires. Now I am shopping again. I'm leaning towards a cheaper Garmin Striker without the CV as I really like the tiny connectors that come on the cables. That will let me drill the smallest hole. I am open to a Lowrance Hook2 but still have memories of a bad experience with my last Lowrance. Of course the Lowrance before that was fine. Are there any known issues with a Hook2 transducer using the in-hull mount method? I think I'm talking about a transducer that does chirp/downscan and not anything fancier.
  2. I like my C-TUG. Stays on pretty good!
  3. My kayak hull doesn’t leak so do you think it that important to make the battery box fully water tight? My wires were very tight in the silicone grommet, but not waterproof.
  4. Planning my depth finder install into kayak. Using a putty mount approach inside the hull and mounting the display unit somewhere in the cockpit (haven't decided yet). I see that both Wilderness Systems and Hobie make a thru-hull wiring kit that have some visual differences. Any suggestions if one or other other have any redeeming qualities over the other? And I could use a battery suggestion too. Unit is going to be a smaller 4" unit like a Garmin Striker and should be good for a full day of use. Of course size/weight matter as I have a lot of lifting/transporting to get to/from the waters I fish. I am very good about charging batteries so a smaller 1-day battery probably best. Thanks guys, trying to get it right the first time
  5. I just tested a Topwater PDL at a local demo day. Love the pedal drive and think it will help with about 50% of my fishing waters. The other 50% is intermittent shallow streams where the drive would have to stay rotated up for extended stretches and I would be paddling. How well does the Topwater handle under paddle? At a certain points these streams deepen and the pedal will be helpful to finish out the trip. I tried to determine this myself in the boat but I went to paddle after playing with the drive so naturally it felt sluggish. I didn't have my own kayak there to switch back and forth to compare.
  6. I'm talking about one of those rudders that move, not the molded kind that is just part of the hull. And when I drag my kayak is almost always flat, not lifting one end up and dragging it on the other end.
  7. I’m checking out several Native kayaks and wondering how that integrated rudder will handle be dragged from truck to launch? I use a cart for difficult or abrasive terrain like an uneven trail or a rocky/gravel area, but will drag my kayak if it is just grass. But none of my kayaks have a rudder so curious if any Native owners can tell me how susceptible that rudder is?
  8. I have dismissed all this new-fangled sun blocking buff/gaiter/shirt stuff for years, assuming it was people looking for ways to wear branded clothing like I see a lot of cyclists wear. Or it was good marketing departments creating a new product industry for gearheads who will buy anything. But now I'm thinking of giving some of these newer products a shot over the gear I've been using for the past 25 years. Sometimes I can be pretty close-minded once I think I've found something that works, without realizing time and technology could be making even better things. I'm still a sunscreen guy, willing to lather on whatever cheap sunscreen cream I have laying around while the kids are all spraying on their spray stuff and going through can after can. I lather up the ears, face, neck, hands and feet if I'm not wearing any shoes. The older I get the easier I burn despite being fairly dark complected for a white dude, but usually only need to reapply a couple times for a whole day. Then I usually wear a mesh baseball cap, a long-sleeve collared breathable fishing shirt like Columbia or Orvis that is supposed to block sun and then usually lightweight fishing pants, the kind with the zip-off legs that I never ever zip off . I've thought those face/neck buffs would make me hotter - having a fabric over my skin just seems to suggest another layer, but I'll give one a try and see. Maybe the wicking nature of them will help with the coolness? I have a bunch of the collared fishing shirts but maybe I'll try one of these lightweight long sleeve t-shirt styles too. Any suggestions on those? They might breathe better than what I've been using. I notice the older I get the more my body just seems to labor in the hot hot weather, so keeping cool will help me avoid some mild anxious thoughts that maybe it's getting too hot to be fishing. I have noticed that thought creep up more often the past couple years and it's disconcerting to be reminded of my degrading life force
  9. Using google maps look at the up-river side of the deep bottom loop. There is something marked as Woodson Rock. I think it is an actual large rock, mostly under water. I recall fishing between there and the cutoff, closer to Woodson Rock than the cutoff. That river is full of stupid. I'd use a flag and wear bright colors.
  10. Used to launch my 20' center console there and catch those big blue cats. Plenty of fish to be had without venturing out into the main river. The trick is the bait - gotta have hand size chunks of fresh gizzard shad - and that usually means throwing a large castnet until you get enough to go fishing. Once you have the bait you can find big cats anywhere. I'd paddle into the middle of that island and see what some cut gizzard shad will do there. Plenty of big cats in the Appomattox too and that launch is not very far from deep bottom. It's all about the bait.
  11. I am fishing relatively shallow freshwater so my unplayed line is just coiled to the side of my seat. I only need about 15’ total. If I used more I’d consider one of those dog leash or clothes line solutions.
  12. My trolley ring is a caribiner itself. Easy to clip in / clip out. I have my anchor rigged with the zip tie for a break away, and the anchor line itself is secured in a jam cleat shown earlier. One quick yank and it's released. To keep my trolley from moving on it's own I bought one of those YakAttack anchor trolley locks that come with their kit. It secures the trolley in place very well but I control the anchor line itself with the jam cleat. Yep, anchoring in current can get wacky fast. Been there done that so I'm careful to only do it in low current situations.
  13. Any deals being offered for the Topwater PDL? I see nothing at Old Town website. Might be paying MSRP which would be a bitter pill to swallow after reading about the good deals and sonar freebies. I'm in Virginia if it matters.
  14. I am relocating part of my DIY anchor trolley and can't reuse all the original screw holes I created. What product is recommended to fill the holes? Just a basic silicone sealant?
  15. Yes, I have one of those on my kayak already. It keeps the length of my anchor line secure but since my trolley goes both ways I didn't see how I could use it for trolley control. I think my mini zip zag cleat arrived in the mail today so I am just going with that. 2 more holes but oh well...