rogerstg

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About rogerstg

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    fishing, hunting
  • What I do for a living:
    Accountant; Licensed Captain
  1. I found this thread http://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/topic/196758-how-to-convert-your-penn-710z-to-manual-bail-not-bailess/that seems on point. It's basically removing the springs and adding something for friction so that the parts don't flop around. I also recall reading about simply removing the bail spring and putting a stainless washer under the bail arm, effectively blocking the slot in the bail arm. I suppose the bail release arm against the bail arm will provide enough friction to stop the bail from flopping open and closed.
  2. I do the same thing. I can't think of any brand I've owned that I was not able to change the straps for waist high wear. OTOH, I do that mostly out west where you need some protection from the 50 degree tailwater. In the Northeast, when I gets hot. I wet wade.
  3. I've tried something similar for saltwater use, but found that the nail knots slipped on big fish resulting in a messed up leader that would no longer lay straight. Since it works for you, I might revisit this with better glue. Thanks.
  4. Oops, good eye. Each leg is 6 feet. I edited my post to reflect that. Thanks. I used a surgeons in the longer loop because it's stronger. That area only has one other strand supporting. In simplistic terms, a 50% knot would only give me 15+.5*15 = 22.5# test when using 15# line. Maybe it's a bit overkill and I'll probably just use two overhand loops when I make some with 20# line. I twist one leg, then the other. After which I go to the other end and let them untwist together as you did at ~2:30 of your video. Hopefully it'll hold up in actual fishing as well as I imagine it will.
  5. Your video inspired me. I've never liked the knot to finish the leader, considering it too bulky. On the other hand, proper furling required too many strands of line for simplicity. I also like you idea of using a spinning reel. For me it allows better control of the number of turns on each side. Besides, I have a bail less 710z that makes it easy. Now, instead of one bulky knot, I have two tiny knots. Here's how: I create a 12' long line section that has a 32" loop at one end, and a 48" loop at the other. These are the two ends of the line to be furled. This is folded in half per your method, leaving two 6' legs. At this point you can see that the leader will have 4 strands at the butt, then 3 strands where one loop overtakes the other, and finally 2 strands to the end. Now I wind each leg separately as you do, and finish the way you completed the first part before you fold it over. That's it - well actually, I put a shorb loop at each end. I used 15# mono, giving me a 30+# leader end with a 60# butt. In making the loops, I use an overhand loop for the shorter loop; simple and tiny, and a surgeon's loop for the other. It doesn't matter that the overhand loop is only a 50% knot becasue it's suported by 3 other legs and the friction of the twists. I looks like a perfect 8 wt leader for casting to false albacore or bonito with 15# tippet.
  6. Have you spoken to the person that modified your shoes? A cobbler would be the best place for advice about which type of wading shoe is most easily modified.. I think you'll be OK though because many or most wading shoes are made with the type of welt that allows for resoling. Good luck, I hope it works out for you.
  7. It depends on the height of your antenna and the other antenna.
  8. How I do it: Following the video that DaveCap provided, after folding the mono in half, tie a surgeon's loop ahead of the fold and start twisting behind the knot. At the end, just snip one leg of the loop and you'll have a single strand for the third section. Roger
  9. 3wt

    deleted - no longer applicable
  10. When space is limited, I simply break the rod down in half, leaving the rod strung and the fly tied on. I use 2 claw hair clips to hold the tip to the butt section. I got the idea from Sandra Demel, a Martha's Vineyard guide.
  11. Me too! I was doing a tongue in cheek illustration about the problems with trying to be too technical, though I should have wrote "nothing resembling an insect" instead of fly. It looks like there's no chance of a career in comedy for me; I'd starve. I'm looking forward to captkenroy's video because I use twisted leaders in saltwater and it's a pita to stop the ends from tangling.
  12. Furled leaders have a long history in freshwater fishing having been made from horsehair, silk and various other available materials that predate synthetic lines. In the more recent past, some folks figured out how to make a similar leader using a jig and very fine line or thread. It's application primarily being very delicate presentations of dry flies. Still more recent was the development of a simple method of furling to produce a leader butt that has application in saltwater and big game fishing. It became known as twisted leader based on how it's made and to differentiate it from the far more complex furled leader conversations. Now, it seems that many people with probably little knowledge of freshwater fly fishing are insisting on calling twisted leaders "furled" because technically, there is rudimentary furling involved, thus blurring the terms for purposes of conversation. I wonder if those folks will stop referring to saltwater fly fishing as such because technically there is nothing resembling a fly involved, and no flies are being caught.
  13. I like them for freshwater surface presentations especially and agree with the pros and cons above. A few more: Pros: they take coloring with a marker well which can help detect sub surface strikes Cons: they get filthy in dirty or scummy water, reducing their effectiveness.
  14. I know what you mean about the rod getting scratched. I think fine grit becomes embedded in the plastic. I solve the problem by putting a wrap of electrical tape in the blank in the contact area. Also, I bet you could modify your Orvis basket to stand the rod by filing away a small part of the lip
  15. Not if your trailer weighs 770#. You forgot to add the weight of the trailer when calculating the load.