ehunter

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About ehunter

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    surf fishing
  • What I do for a living:
    Software Support
  1. Ah... never mind. I found a bunch of youtubes and everybody uses 4" angle grinders. I think my neighbor has one... no diamond blade though. So tha'ts one more expense !
  2. Ok so what is the best way for me to handle the cutting for the area around the drain ? I have a diamond blade I bought for cutting these pavers, but the drain is round. Do the trades even try to round-cut on pavers? I have both a skill-saw and a sliding miter saw that the blade fits. Might it be easier to use a block splitter chisel on these 2.5" thick pavers to shape a round type of cut. What is the easiest way and/or the cleanest way to do this?
  3. I like the idea of paver stones. I have never done this kind of work, but I guess I will give it a go. So I did some work today preparing the area for the pavers. I dug out an area which is roughly 6'x6'. Then I came into the house for a rest and look at some youtubes of the general process. I am not sure what the next step should be, but it seems I need to put down some kind of leveling material and compact that. I have 4 inches of depth from the bottom of the concrete siding wall to the dirt, and if the pavers are 2.5" thick, that means compacted rock + sand should be at most 1.5" thick. I am wondering if 3/4" rock + 3/4" sand would be ok, else I have more digging to do. Or, is there a better way this should be done? Looking forward, since three of the sides are lined by concrete walling, I think I will need a plastic railing on the side facing the uphill. Then the retaining wall blocks will be the first step going up the grade. Do I need to prepare the retaining wall foundation in the same way ? That is, rock + sand? FWIW - The area will only be walked on 3 or 4 times/year. Maybe a couple hundred pounds of stuff will be stored there at most. Here is the way things are looking after today...
  4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa3FFhrMcFk Hi Everyone, I have been mulling over what to do here. Have a look at the video. I am looking to improve this space so that it is not such a dirty and un-usable area. I have things I want to put/store here but don't want those things to be resting in the dirt. I don't want to put any kind of wooden platform at the bottom because it will turn into a racoon/rats nesting area just like my neighbors place next door. So how should I start this? A concrete flooring seems the best though it would be close to the concrete fiber siding which is my biggest point of concern from a structural rot perspective. So I am looking for how to get started with this. Seems a shower basin-like floor at the bottom would be the obvious starting point. Then use retainer wall bricks from left to right as a stairwell leading down. I have very limited experience with this which is why I wanted to get some feedback. Thanks !
  5. I have had this problem. The whole thing started with Raccoons. The varmints ripped through the crawlspace vent screening and before I knew what was going on I had them in both my ceiling and crawl area. I am happy my crawl area is cement floor based. Anyway, the problem was I needed to make sure that when the coons exited for the evening there were no-more young-ings waiting inside. No way was I going to be lucky enough to count the number of them exiting and entering so I bought a wireless camera with alerts to my phone so I could count them going in and out and at what times this happens. This allowed me to go seal them out of their home at the right time. Now, my wireless camera caught not just raccoons, but big rats and mice and skunks entering the space. But first, before sealing the area, I wanted to know where their nest areas were to clean the area out. So I bought 3 more cameras, positioned them at logical areas under the house to zero in on what they were doing. So I got the animals sealed out. But what the heck... the cameras in the crawl space were still triggering !!! The rats were still getting in somewhere else. Anyway, after many weeks of zeroing in on how they were getting in, I was able to go around the house with foam sealer and knock out their proven entry places. So now... the problem is solved forever. Those rats are crafty, traversing from one area to another on top the heat transfer pipings so they really through me a lot of curve balls. The problem I have with the poison and all the traps is that all you are doing is removing one animal so that another one can take its place. I had a friend who had a racoon die one time in his wall after poisoning and the animal literally rotted in there, unbearable stench. The body juice leached into the house at the floor. Good thing he was not married with a wife. Anyway, I know it is satisfying knowing that you killed the little bugger... but lets get real...you haven't really solved the actual problem.
  6. Well then, I guess I will cut out the rust, and bond new flash in its place. Maybe it lasts long enough utill the time I need to sell the place. So at least I know to check on the area every few years. For what it is worth, the rot came to be after 20 years of moss growing in a place that get no sun year round.
  7. I have rusted out flashing in a roof valley area against a wall causing rain water leak down to an inside basement wall. I am not sure the best way to fix this but here is my best idea: 1) dig out the rusted area of flashing the best I can and remove all debris. 2) re-flash just over the rusted out area and weather seal new flashing ontop the old flashing. Now... should I leave this as a finished repair? Or... 3) use some kind of EPDM rubber roofing product on top the repaired flashing? Here is a link of the EPDM product I would consider. A there are better things for me to do? You can see how I cleaned the original mossy debris to where you can see where the rust damage is.
  8. ok then. Your older than the oldest Dittle brother by 5 years, so the chances are you dont know-em. (2AM club regular in the old days and was the guy in charge of the Richardson Bay Sanitation District for many years).
  9. I know I dont post much... and this dialog is close to a year old already... but do you mind me asking what year you graduated from Tam? I think there is a decent chance we know people in common.
  10. To have a team come in and only spray the sill plate might not be cost effective. On my job it took the team two hours just to prepare everything to get the system up and running. Then it took them another hour, at least, to break down the system and clean up just to finish the job. So there is three hours right there on your bill without any spraying done. Maybe it takes the guys one hour just to spray your sills making it a 4 hour job. I would expect that most contractors would budget for a full days pay no matter how small a job you have. I bet it costs you not too much more to do your whole underside instead. I think doing just the sills is risky too. On my house the plywood floor is nailed down to the joists and I bet there is seepage from the joist joints and up the plywood seams into the house. I could really feel it in my 12 year old house. Now a days I think they are putting a glue sealant down on the top the joists when setting the plywood down so the seepage is not nearly as bad as higher aged houses. My house was extreme though as the crawl balloons up with air, forcing it into the house with high pressure. Just one of the drawbacks of living off the windy ocean. Your place is most likely not nearly as bad.
  11. I have not looked to see how they did that. The walls you see in that photo are internal to the outside perimeter of the house as the crawlspace is compartmentalized with internal walls. The perimeter I have not peeked at... though you have sparked my curiosity now.
  12. Hi HardyG, As you can see the team did use an E20 but that was not anything to stress over. It got the work done fine with great results. Now it is time to mull over when/if I should do the attic. My heart says do it but logic tells me to hold off. The contractor looked at the attic and did not like the looks of parts of the work. Says they might raise the cost per board foot because of it. I barely made my budget with the crawl space so I don't know how much of a dagger the attic will be. The more I think about it, the more I am against conditioning the whole attic. I lean strongly against it and just condition the actual living space. EH
  13. Well I am beat. I just finished vacuuming up, putting things away, I have not eaten all day… etc. The guys showed up at 9am, left at 3:45, and the first three hours were in setting up. Both I and the two cats were recommended to stay outside the house. No problem. Square footage measured out to be 874 sq ft. and the cost came to $3135 including $500 for long distance travel ~120mi. After the job was done I was told to have all windows open for an additional hour, even though it is written all noxious gases are dissipated after the first hour. The house sat for two hours after completion. Good thing because the San Francisco fog has come in. That is, a drizzly 63 deg and add 15mph of wind on top of it. So far, I do feel a difference. The living space above the crawl feels like the same temperature as the upstairs. Usually it feels damp clammy cold… so… so far so good. [img= http://www.stripersonline.com/image/id/3800693/width/750/height/1000] [img= http://www.stripersonline.com/image/id/3800696/width/750/height/1000] [img= http://www.stripersonline.com/image/id/3800700/width/750/height/1000]
  14. Wow what a day… it feels epic ! I went down and got two short skinny guys looking for work at the home depot. They pulled all the insulation out and hand swept the rough concrete floor in the crawl space. If the foam guys had to roll around in that construction debris dirt covered concrete crawl space floor it would not be a nice job at all. Now they are working in a first class cleaned up area to apply their trade. Those guys took out about 40 compacted 30 gal trash bags full of material. My buddy was waiting when they finished to take all the bags down to the dumps before they closed. Costs: $150 for each day laborer ($300 total) plus the dumps charged me $15 to get rid of the 40 bags. They go by weight at $88/ton. We hit their minimum charge of $15 ! I actually feel like I cheated them ! Paying those guys was well worth it too. 5 hours for $150 each. WORTH IT especially if you saw what they looked like crawling out those cellar hatches. The foam guys wanted $1700 to remove the material so I saved $1385. I am now all ready for the foam guys to arrive on Monday. I think I will go fire up the barbeque and enjoy the rest of the day…
  15. OK I am all set ... The spray foam team arrives on Monday. All I need to do is get the existing batt material out of the crawl space else it will cost me a notable amount of money more. I am doing just the crawl space, not the attic, as my major point of discomfort is is the space above the crawl space. I am going to monitor the atitc temp and the inside temp throughout the summer/winter before I decide if it is worth it to do the Attic too. I will try to get photos up when I can. EDIT: I almost forgot... What is the best way/cheapest way - honest/respectable way to dispose of 20 garbage bags full of the old insulation??? I dont have to get rid of it all at once if that matters in order to save money.