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About Fish'aholic

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  1. The internet is a poorer place without his wisdom. Get well soon!
  2. How about a video...
  3. Try hydraulic pressure; add tacky grease to the bearing ID and plunge it with a matching (ID) drill bit. Pack with grease, plunge and repeat. Wet tissue paper plunged through ID is another way to skin a cat.
  4. I've struck lucky. Had a friend who new a friend who had a spare trinidad spool and wants peanuts for it. My friend said the other chap owes him a favour anyway and as he owed me one, paying it forward was my reels saviour. Phew! Thanks again for your time, DaBig2na. We know now for certain no crossing over of spools between the two series'.
  5. I had thought about that, but the left hand side of the spool slightly differs on a torium compared to a trinidad. The trini' retains a nylon cog, spacer washer, clicker plate and are e-clipped to the spool axle. The torium spools are missing the nylon cog and spacer washer and the two missing parts are making me think they may not be able to cross over between the series'. Thanks for your suggestion, DaBig2na!
  6. As per title, looking for a spare spool for a Shimnao trinidad 14 gold series. Cash waiting.
  7. I find it helpful to cut old grease by applying a cheap oil and work it in. This softens stubborn to remove greases allowing solvents to work far better/faster. Works for me.
  8. Alan Tani's forum; general question's and trouble shooting forum; page 3; thread title: Shimming spinning reels involves three pages worth of insightful reading material for what you're experiencing
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  10. Tuning a fathom for long distance surfcasting tossing 4-8oz leads and bait, a cast generating enough rpm's, can have its brake blocks reengage from their disengaged position, inhibiting spool speeds therefore decreases distance. To help rectify I removed 4 excess b/blocks and left 2 opposing ones behind to apply friction. This lead to another issue rearing its head, only this problem causes unruly spool speeds increasing crack offs and crows nests. After inspection, I found wear issues on the 2 remaining b/blocks left behind. The friction generated by high rpm's had managed to deteriorate b/blocks physical length to where they could no longer nestle against its accommodating brake ring offering zero friction. After trial and error, I decided to upgrade the stock spring loaded centrifugal system and it's inferior b/blocks by fitting blocks from other manufacturers' reels with great success. These blocks operate as a constant, rather than spring loaded and no further wear problems are noted in many years use. Round profiled b/blocks are needed to accommodate round pins. I pluck them from older generation Shimano's like first gen' Trinidad 12/14, Torium 14 and Calcutta 400s, to name a few. All blocks are flanged and grey in appearance. I also use, and favour, Abu's b/blocks found in older modelled reels with 2 pin centrifugal clutch plates. They are brown in colour. HTH.
  11. Have a peek at the 2018 Daiwa saltist star drags (I don't own one). If the previous series is anything to go by (silver and B&G series), it should be another winner. It looks a damn fine reel too!
  12. A field fix for a friend, luckyOC.
  13. You can rectify the issue you're currently having with the clicker in mere minutes with the simple fix of shortening the two springs holding the clicker pawl in situ. This puts added tension directly on to the clicker button for more positive engagement and will increase the clickers audible output.
  14. The parts diagram is the correct orientation. The single belleville spring washer (10B) is placed on top of the star clicker retainer and spring. The convex curvature faces the star drag.
  15. Thank you for the clarity, Tony. Steve