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About wrikerjr

  • Rank
    Elite Member


  • About Me:
    Ruru Lures
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Plug Building
  • What I do for a living:
  1. Phil, I make a Conrad and it is purposefully positively buoyant, now when you hold that plug in a current it will automatically sink upon the feel of resistance. This action is purposeful and intended for the Conrad's application. Plug design takes into account many factors including center of compression, center of balance, material density, positive and negative buoyancy, as many other factors. With a conrad the line tie position, the wood, the buyouncy, as well as the center of compression all need to work together in unison so the plug reaches the necessary depth when in action. I hope that helps you understand a little more. When I design a plug, I worry first about its performance in action and secondarily about its performance at rest. Thanks Bill (ruru lures)
  2. I am not 100% positive, but that looks like a small plug that Ron from Lordship made. He did not produce them commercially, they had a different lip, but he and I did spin a few with a very similar profile. I have made a few for some very close friends and family with children just starting to fish with that lefty 1 lip on them. That plug is definetly not mine as I do not use belly grommets. A picture of the tail loop may help. The paint is not a crisp as Ron's. It may be a home made from a builder. Also, I did ship 3 of those bodies to a father in son that attended the Berkley show a few years back because his son wanted to build lures. I am thinking it may be one of those three plugs. Sorry that I cannot definitively say but I feel there is a chance that I may have spun the body and someone else finished the plug. I also want to give credit to Lordship / Ron as it was his plug. Kindest, Bill Riker (ruru lures)
  3. Sparky, That is a sexy looking jointed. I find that sometimes when the "slither" in calm water they don't really do that well in current around boulder fields, in those instances I add some tail weight to the first section and they perform and swim a lot better in the current. I make larger eel type snake jointeds and I add a weight casting rattle into the tail section and it performs really well in current but the trade off is that slither that you're talking about. Great job on the lure, very impressive stuff you are building. Billy
  4. Hi Sparky. Hope all is well. FYI, your plugs look phenominal. Great job, I am a big fan.
  5. Hi Sudsy. Hope you're well!
  6. What type of wood are you using? On certain plugs I use swamp cedar of a particular density that is particularly oily. The swamp cedar makes outstanding larger plugs but the cedar oil since its so dense will seep through anything. When i say anything, I mean anything and I have tried them all (water based, oil based, epoxy coat, heat sealed epoxy coat, multiple coats of primer, various final epoxy coatings). I even had a chemist look at it and dissect it in his lab, and he confirmed (as best he could) that the cedar oils (since they are so concentrated in swamp cedar) are trying to seep out and will eventually yellow the white interacting with the clear coat. The swamp cedar works better than the other cedars so I continue to use that cedar for that particular plug. As a commercial builder, some of my clients have the yellowing white on my large danny, I disclose to them when I sell the lure that within a year you will see the clear coat change slightly and start tinting yellow because of the cedar. Some opt for a different color, some people chalk it up to me being a poor builder, other say they do not care and fish the hell out of the plug. I sell a lot of those big danny's and they have caught a number of larger fish over 40 pounds. There are some that are heavily used and have hook rash and do not yellow as the rash provides a mechanism for the cedar oils to escape. I have also had numerous high quality plug builders that I consider friends test their paint and clear coat systems on the swamp cedar and everyone eventually yellowed because of the extreme concentration of natural oils. Sometimes, you need to accept that certain things are outside of our control and a decision must be made. Plug action or color? Never met a fish that turned down a plug because the clear coat was yellowing. If the issues is not with the wood, than capesams advice is good. As far as primer, I would try XIM 400 primer.
  7. Thanks for sharing those pictures Sudsy. I will try to build one of those sidekicks.
  8. Thanks for letting me know. The one he made me he said was the Russian wood. Never trusted myself enough to throw it. Only 5 or 6 plugs I won’t throw (although they are sometimes in my bag) that is one of them.
  9. Hi Sudsy, I thought the tiger was from the "Russian wood" as well. Billy
  10. Plugs generally are too large for UV light application in my opinion. As Paul stated, very good for tails and flies and I use it extensively on higher end flies.
  11. All great responses from jigman and onthefly. The key to plug building is plug testing and tweaking. Build 5 or 6 of the lures with different slots for weight, go down to the water and test them with different weights in each slot and take notes. To me that is fun and how you learn about plug design and more importantly becoming a better angler. Do not shortchange the process and you will be amazed what you learn. What is shared in the forums are general rules but applying those rules is how you become proficient.
  12. finish coat will put epoxy in that and you can fish it like any other plug (the fish don't care)
  13. Hi Raghubir, I am glad you find this hobby exciting. As always, experimentation is key and weight is only one variable. As a plug designer, there are a few elements that you must take into consideration like center of gravity, center of compression, buoyancy, etc. These are all balanced within the lure that you are trying to build. My recommendation would be to forget about the tutorials and build a few lures with different weight placements and take notes on the different action. To answer your questions in generic terms: 1.) No weight is not always required. 2.) Try to avoid weighting rules but as a general rule. Weight in the front will help the plug dig into the water, weight in the back will help cast. Both can be detrimental to swimming action and sometimes it can help. 3.) More weight in the front will reduce the casting and help the plug dig in.
  14. Well done!
  15. Danny - This is Bill from Ruru Lures. The Conrad Jr. has one belly hook - I have not made any with 2 belly hooks. I did make a slopehead Conrad (much longer profile) that had 2 belly hooks. Different application for those plugs. Hope this helps - Bill