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About HJS

  • Rank
    1,000 Post Club!
  • Birthday 05/01/1946


  • About Me:
    Basket case fisherman all my life.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fishing, gardening, flintknapping, camping, mt biking
  • What I do for a living:
    Fishery Biologist, ret.

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Emmitsburg, MD
  1. Dang... I'm still using my Herters fly tying vise I order from their catalog as part of their fly tying kit while stationed in Vietnam, circa 1971-1972. Probably only the old pharts here remember Herters. I'd sit in my bunker tying flies and counting down my remaining days on my short-timers calendar. At the time fly tying was made popular in a war zone by the TV show M.A.S.H. Boy did I catch heck from my fellow soldiers.... But I made friends with Top Sargeant Temple who fly fished the cold water outlets of the Tennessee Authority hydro dams and was about to retire. A Top Sargeant has more stripes on their arm than a zebra. I was only a speck 4. Top Temple caught the tail end of WWII, Korea, and finally Vietnam, probably caught a few smaller Kerfuffles in between... and lived to tell about it. I hope he caught lots of fish after he retired.
  2. Although not an "insect" I though it might find a place here. Found this giant spider on the landing of my cellar steps. Can anyone ID this spider??? Either a funnel spider, fishing spider or maybe a wolf spider... not sure. There was no web associated near this spider. Its sitting on a standard sizes carpender's cut off saw. Second picture contains other items for size comparisons.
  3. What Zobil (and others) said. Need a little more info. Did you buy a floating or sinking fly line. Makes a big difference when first learning to cast a fly rod. Learning using a sinking line is way more difficult than learning using a floating line. Also, always pause a split second on the back cast to allow the fly line to straighten out before doing your power cast forward. Rod moves back&forth from 10:00 to 2:00 on the face of a clock when making false casts and on the power cast. Start with fishing poppers for bluegills. There's a long learning curve when learning how to cast a fly line.
  4. Sometimes a single glued-on soft plastic catches so many schoolie stripers and last so long that it too eventually gets fuzzy striper thumb too.
  5. I’ve been using various brand names of brush-on super glue for a couple of decades. First it was Future Glue sold at WallMart. Then WallMart switched to Krazy Glue brush-on super glues. I think all superglues are about the same although super glue jells work best and seem to last longer once opened. Super glued soft plastics to jigs makes them last 3-4 times longer on the hook… so it’s well worth the cost and effort. Newbies, this is how I do it. First lace on a soft plastic halfway on the jig and stop just before the jig keeper barb. Then brush on the super glue jell then immediately push the soft plastics all the way on. Most times I glue several of my goto plastics to jigs the night before. The glue get rock solid overnight. If blues are around, even small nipper blues, then all bets are off. Then I don’t bother with super gluing plastics.
  6. If a hooked fish wants to travel to the other side of your kayak then you want a rod long enought to pass your line around the front of your kayak.
  7. I'm going for an eastern phoebe too. They like the tops of porch columes. Although it's mostly a wild guess.
  8. For years, gas cans of any size have been a major disgrace of world technology and problem solving abilities. Try Tractor Supply. They sell old timey gas can nozzle replacement kits. Don't know how wide spread they are across the States. We have a bunch of them in Maryland and southern PA.
  9. Screw the Mueller Report, I'm sick of it! Wonder if he caught anything???... Maybe he'll post a fishing report here.
  10. R.R. - Where these jigs are used there in no need for extra protection for the jigheads. Both my BILs take me out fishing in appropriate sized boats (22’-24’) designed for light tackle jigging in the Chesapeake Bay. They both live less than a mile from several launch points. As payback I keep them both well supplied with jigs of all sizes. So, the vast majority of the jigs I make are used only in the Chesapeake Bay. There’s no rocks or hard structure in the Bay except for limited shore rip-rap and the occasional bridge pylons, so epoxy protection for jigheads is not really needed. Delzea – Those are nice looking paint jobs and skilled buck-tail tying. At times I still dip jigs in the little jars for PPing custom jig colors. I like the 2-toned color patterns and mottled appearance pictured in my above post. I do the 2-tones by first stretching 5”x5” patches of women’s nylon stockings over the top of the little jars of PP and hold the patches in place with stout rubber bands. Then I apply the contrasting PP like I’m lightly shaking a salt shaker. But you gotta have all your ducks in a row first. Dip the base color first, shake off excess, then shake on the contrasting color, dip in water to cool. All these steps must be completed in seconds so the jig doesn’t cool too much. Then clean out the hook eyes and then back in the oven to curer the PP… done… the PP is nearly as hard as a rock.
  11. Good looking work. You’re nearly at the top of the pouring learning curve. But now you have another learning curve to master… and that is how to powder paint the bare jigs. And if you get heavy into pouring jigs out the whazoo then you need a fluidizer. There’s quite the learning curve there too. Fluidizer made from PVC pipe and couples. Source of air supply to work the fluidizer. Ok, I sorta went over-board with my "air supply"... but the set-up works perfectly. I can adjust air fluid to make the PP do a nice gentle "boil". And the resulting product.
  12. They look pretty good. What were some of things you discovered that made the pouring work better and fill out the molds better?
  13. My brother gave me several sections of ancient lead plumbing pipe stored in the attic of his ancient house. Probably stripped out decades ago and replaced with copper. It poured very well but later I found out the resulting jigs were almost 15% lighter than the same jigs poured using pure lead. So watch out for that. I used a sensitive scientific scale for measuring. Don’t know what was added to the lead. It seemed to melt at a lower temp and filled out the molds nicely. Would have been very useful to pour tiny lead soldier molds…the detail would have filled out perfectly… but jigs???... not so much. Oh yeah, as has already been stated, I should mention that don’t have any water anywhere near molten lead… it would be like smoking while loading shotgun shells…. only bad things happen...get the picture???
  14. April was brutal here in Maryland. But the bigger rivers are starting to return to normal. The Conowingo Dam on the Susquehanna has just gone back to generators only, no flood gates. The Potomac is still running a little above normal but the water has cleared enough for the last of the American shad to make a showing about a week or two ago, nice ones too, so I heard. The bigtime farmers are finally getting their fields planted and hay mowed and baled.… better late than never. Weather can turn on a dime though... we shall see what the next few months will bring.
  15. What "R.R. Bridge Fisher" said, post #7. Attach end to a tree and walk almost all the line off. Then reel the line back on under moderate/heavy rod pressure, like you are fighting a big fish. Also what chitala383 said, post #9. Your reel seems a bit over filled. If you have problems with tangles and loops sticking out during fishing then I would suggest cutting off maybe 50 feet and see if that helps. Maybe another 50 feet might help even more. Trial and error style.