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Posts posted by ez2cdave

  1. 36 mins ago, sytheteacher said:

    I agree with everything you said about braid.... But braid will allow you to cast further...

    Only because Braid is thinner diameter for the same lb-test . . . Make it the same diameter, braid loses, due to drag !


    A good example is a surf rod ( 525 MAG conventional reel ), fishing bait,  using 15 lb-test mono vs. 65 lb-test Braid ( same diameter ).  The casting distance is virtually identical, but the Braid has more line drag in the water, which makes it more difficult to hold bottom, requiring more weight.


    Now, Braid has a larger distance advantage on Spinning gear, than on a Conventional reel but, for me, the disadvantages outweigh the advantages.


    Being able to cast further is a nice "perk", but only if the fish are that far out . . . Otherwise, the 7 "negatives" I listed, outweighs the 1 "positive" of increased distance.


    Dave F.



  2. 9 hours ago, cityevader said:

    I'm a noob without much experience, but my Penn reels are old/new... 710z and Spinfisher V. 


    There is a night/day difference between these reels. 


    ... I use a light Carolina rig to allow bait (for surf Perch) to drift along with currents/wave action) and I hold the rod just forward of its balance point so that the rod tip is up, then lower the tip by cranking the reel just enough to keep the rod "balanced". 


    Anyhoo, the 710Z transmits every single vibration of the line. Micro-movements can be felt via micro-turns of the crank. 

    The SpinfisherV feels "dead/disconnected" from the line. It has no subtle movements. It cranks fine at high speed, but tiny, slow speed movements feel dead. 


    Methinks it is the "breakaway torque" of modern seals. High friction at low speeds? 

    I can't explain it, but these two reels on the same rod has me wanting to sell the modern one. 

    I am thinking that the "instant anti-reverse", used in most "modern" reels may be the culprit, since it allows no "play" in the crank.


    Dave F.

  3. 2 hours ago, redfin said:

    I often wonder if braided line just didn't exist where the spinning reel industry would have been today. The biggest leap in performance you get with a modern reel over an old design is how it casts and winds braided line. Even the drags on the old reels were more than adequate for a surf fisherman. If we all fished mono there is very little in the way of improvements and gains that I see between both old and new reels.

    Agreed . . . 100% !


    Personally, I have made serious efforts to try Braid, on both Conventional's and Spinners. After wanting to love Braid, I fin the complete opposite to be true ( for me ) . . .


    I hate Braid for the following reasons and have gone back to Mono, 100% :


    (1) Expensive.

    (2) Not abrasion resistant, regardless of the hype.

    (3) Difficult to tie knots that won't slip.

    (4) Digs into itself.

    (5) Slices skin like a razor.

    (6) Difficult to keep tightly spooled, while casting and fishing.

    (7) I hate the "feel" of Braid ( slippery ).


    The video's below are "eye-openers" . . .


    Dave F.











  4. 1 hour ago, BrianBM said:

    ez2cDave, what does that Accurate Squidder weigh?

    Hi, Brian !


    With the reel "dressed" exactly as seen in the photo's and an EMPTY Newell spool, it weighs 20.1 oz.


    The Rod Clamp weighs 1.1 oz. by itself . . .


    According to PENN Catalog 39B, from 1983, a "Dead Stock" PENN 140L SQUIDDER weighs 18 oz.


    The Newell spool is somewhat lighter than the stock 140L Aluminum spool, but I don't have an empty one to weigh, right now.


    By comparison, a "modern-day", graphite-framed, Daiwa Sealine-X 30SHA weighs 17.1 oz. , but only has 2/3 the line capacity of the Squidder. Yes, the 30SHA has 6.1 gears, making it very fast, compared to the 3.3 gears of the Squidder . . . But, the Squidder has "cranking power", when fighting a fish !


    Dave F.

  5. On 9/3/2019 at 3:42 PM, fishfinder said:

    New reels are better just don't last as long under abuse. Love my squidder and jigmaster though would put them up against most new conventional s any day :p

    Speaking of SQUIDDERS . . .  Here is my full Accurate Conversion SQUIDDER 140L ( "Bulletproof" ) . . .  "Old-School" Reels + Modern Rods = PERFECTION !


    Tight Lines !





    ACCURATE SQUIDDER 140 -01.jpg

    ACCURATE SQUIDDER 140 -02.jpg

    ACCURATE SQUIDDER 140 -03.jpg

    ACCURATE SQUIDDER 140 -04.jpg

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    ACCURATE SQUIDDER 140 -07.jpg

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    ACCURATE SQUIDDER 140 -09.jpg

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    ACCURATE SQUIDDER 140 -11.jpg

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    ACCURATE SQUIDDER 140 -13.jpg

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    ACCURATE SQUIDDER 140 -16.jpg

    ACCURATE SQUIDDER 140 -17.jpg

    ACCURATE SQUIDDER 140 -18.jpg

  6. 4 hours ago, flysully said:

    Thank you for this excellent chart. I'd seen this here on SOL years ago and saved it as a new flyfisher but it's good to see it again for those newer to the scene. I've found it's a pretty accurate weight/measurement chart.

    You are very welcome . . . I wanted to post it, so that everyone would be able to download it.


    Tight Lines !

  7. Large goliath groupers should be left in the water during release. The skeletal structure of large goliath grouper cannot adequately support their weight out of the water without some type of damage. If a large goliath is brought on-board a vessel or out of the water, it is likely to sustain some form of internal injury and therefore be considered harvested.


    You can't lift a 300lb+ fish and suspend it unless you have a harness. It's talking about any circumstance in which a specimen's body which is of that large size is unsupported by the neutral buoyancy that it has while in the water. While in 5 inches of water, it's technically in the water- it can't support the fish's bodyweight and therefore gravity is causing it's organs and rib bones to bear the pressure of it's muscle mass. Whether it's slid over the gunnel or laying on the beach, the principle still applies.


    Nevertheless, FWC Rules do not objectively define "out of the water", nor do they define "in the water". Obviously, if it is completely "on-board a vessel", it is clearly out of the water. But, what about "partially" on-board a vessel ?


    "In the water" could interpreted to mean anything from "barely in contact with the water" to meaning "almost totally submerged".


    The wording is much too subjective and ambiguous, in my opinion.

  8. How to make Pilchard Rings

    To All,

    When I was growing up in South Florida, I used Pilchard Rings ( aka - "Ribbon Rigs" ) to catch baitfish ( Pilchards / Menhaden ) from the fishing piers . Recently, I discovered that they have been declared to be a "gill net", theoretically "illegal", and not available in stores anymore. I always used to make my own, as a kid.

    So, for purely "historical value" . . .  ( Read "liability" here - LOL ! )



    6 ft. of #7 Dark-Colored, Solid Leader Wire

    1 Barrel Swivel

    1 Snap Swivel ( to allow weight changes )

    Cardboard Toilet Paper or Paper Towel Tube ( 1" I.D. Sch. 40 PVC works great, too )

    3 ft. of Bright Red Ribbon ( 3/8" - 1/2" wide )

    Pyramid, Bank, or Dipsey/ Bass Sinker ( 3/4oz - 1 1/2oz +/- )


    (1) Start with a six-foot length of No. 7 dark leader wire.

    (2) Bend it in half and slide on a barrel swivel.

    (3) Tie a LOOSE, TWO-TURN, overhand knot in the wire near the bend to "capture" the swivel

    (4) Form a loop, using a the toilet paper or paper towel tube ( or 1" I.D. Sch. 40 PVC pipe )as a "mandrel" ( you may need to vary the loop size depending on baitfish sizes in your area) and make a SINGLE-TURN Overhand Knot,

    (5) ALTERNATE the direction of the Overhand Knots each time to help the rig hang straighter

    (6) Repeat until you have a series of loops, leaving a couple of inches of wire free at the bottom

    (7) Slip on the Snap Swivel and connect the loose ends of the wire, using a SHORT Haywire Twist

    (8) Hold the rig at each end and pull on it to stretch the loops out into an oval shape

    (9) Attach the bright red ribbon at one end by knotting it to the Swivel loop

    (10) Pass the ribbon through rings one-third and two-thirds of the way up the rig

    (11) Attach the ribbon to the other Swivel, leaving some slack in the ribbon when fully extended

    (12) Attach the Sinker to the Snap Swivel and the rig is complete


    Tie the rig to a light spinning rod and lower or cast it into a baitfish school and let it sink. You will feel baitfish hitting the rig. Keep the line tight and wait for the rod to bend. When it does, wait a few seconds and reel up. Remove baitfish and repeat, as desired !