magayanes

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Everything posted by magayanes

  1. No problem It’s a great lot for the right guy should be gone soon. Good luck with the sale mag
  2. New family member and work push me to find the hrs to fly cast at night .I did better in the early 2000s fishing at dark for 6 seasons exclusively on plugs for the first two, thinking cover water was the best option to find fish, change to the fly after I learn that finding the the bait, structure and what presentation the fish likes best give me the best results. Two years after Sandy Storm, I went back to it because of the current topic, this time with much “free” time so is the consistency, same spots, worst numbers in quality fish but also quantity. My logs and media comments helps tremendously to kind of predict where not to go. Im fishing exclusively on the fly, it’s much peaceful in summer, specially near the city, nothing remote from Google maps, just the same popular spots everyone share at day time, lot of work for so many hrs to most of the time bring some poor footage of underwear bait life if any, mosquito bites and few lazy notes to mark the skunks only as a reference, don’t care about fish less nights anymore, seems after a while, you always value more the hunt than the catch, don’t get me wrong, skunks in the cold or bad weather they are heavier that the day time ones, but boy, how much more intense the motivation and rich the experiences can be even after 90 nights without a tap and you finally hunt that resident keeper fish the way you want. Sad to read some, but it’s a great topic to gather info and see other’s points of view. - My theories If it’s not the commercial and sport fishing pressure, it’s the temperatures, polluted and to me most important factor, the oxygen water levels, this factors in water effect more the summer popular areas along the NE coast, we see bait in greater numbers, probably because it can tolerate the last few factors “better” than the game fish. If we only can honestly post consistently night reports, it will definitely be very interesting to see the full picture at the end of the season, because if we can be constant, logs will show a greater picture once you put all the factors together, for example, it’s amazing how much different a heavy boats traffic areas on weekends compared to weekdays, kills the bite, it can really be a huge factor fishing before sun up or, just after sun down when target the weakfish in the back. The migratory patterns fish that it’s taking the seasonal ocean currents probably are not in the same optimal conditions as in the pass for the short number of quality migratory fish out there, I believe they currently are drifting in different routes, not a clue here guys, as you see, I’m a total ignorant in the migratory or environmental fields, but Im thinking this bigger fish it’s probably moving farther and deeper east in more colder, clean and better oxygenated water, something similar it’s happening in the Straight of Gibraltar with the Tuna migratory patterns and this patterns are first reported since the Phoenicians times. Tuna still it’s there but can’t tolerate the low oxygen levels as well the bait fish bait move because of the poor oxygen levels in water, Tuna numbers are good, the pounds per Tuna it’s what the comercial fishery’s are concerned about. We still have a good amount of live present in the usual “local” spots along the NE coast, bait fish it’s all over but not the usual and short number of predators are on them at day time, if you can be consistent at night, I encourage you to do it, probably best time to start it’s the summer months, plenty spots to fish the NJ shore under the beach homes porch lights. best mag check this one from the bay please
  3. Fly fishing it’s such a primitive concept that it’s even disrespectful to the founders the way we are splitting the same game based on the blank lengths, it’s been already proof both tools work, and with worst technology and even less smart phones to be able to share more and better the hard field work those guys build the sport foundation, knowing the maths behind the SH or Switch/TH it’s the hardest part, that’s probably why same topics appear over and over, once you pass that, both tools levers by applying the right casting angles in the right hands with the right technique will help to do effortlessly and very efficiently so many different fly presentation and thrive over any conditions once you know the bait, structure and best presentation. We must also know, the game it’s not going to be any easier if ….you need to work 40hrs a week, if you can not prioritize fishing over family and you are typing more than only P R A C T I C E. best mag
  4. Hi Surfrat59 If it works for you to split the sale. No need here for the flies, line, the spare spool or any backing. Only because I’m looking for another XXT rod and the rod manufacturer it’s not in business and I own same reel also in silver with some issues, respectfully I offer $120 shipped to 08753 on both. Thank you
  5. Too many flies for the season for me, Thanks to ASWF.info few club members give it to me in the last fall classic few years ago, time to pass it on. FREE flies lot to some one local for pick up only near IBSP, hope someone out there who knows a young fella who needs few flies to start in the game. best mag
  6. Thank you to the ASWF members, awesome group of people there. Great, send address please Same to you guys, all the best out there SOLers Thanks again mag
  7. Understand concerns about giving personal address to unknown members in this platforms. My bad…:( How about if we keep the FREE flies lot to some one local for pick up only near IBSP, it must be someone out there who knows a young fella who needs few flies to start in the game. I’m sure you understand moving this to a new box best mag
  8. No problem, sorry if I break any rules, I consider SOL it’s all about sharing and building friendship around the sport. I don’t have any wallet or proper size poppers for a 8# now, give me few more days, I should have few gurglers in my truck. Let you know by the weekend if you can give me few days. best mag
  9. Have at lease 12 to 20 flies in my truck, let me know!

    best 

    mag

  10. ASWF.ORG club members give me a bunch of flies last season, Im all set for the fall, I can send you a bundle for FREE if you take the shipping cost, PM send.
  11. Find a local club, usually they have open outings to anyone who want to put some spare time to be knee deep. I actually find really good advices and spots in many of those outings that I use and share with others to this day, always greatfull to this guys. The media change the approach to the game but, time in the water should be the foundation, from here, observation by day at low tide to find references on the actual structure, to come back in high tide or dark, spot the bait and what birds are above are a great source of info, and last presentation, specially in low light conditions once finding the right tide and time moving water, at first might give you tones of nonsense clues at first like the stargazer you caught, that’s a clue to me, we should learn to put it together before reaching some level of consistency in our local spots. I did so for few seasons since, my logs from early 2000s shows ups and downs in numbers of fish and the obvious decreasing in size and population numbers are sadly matching the data. But for sure they are in the same structure, chasing same seasonal bait in full darkness as longer the water it’s moving, the presentation is on us and can really be frustrating at times, again but putting the time sure makes the all difference to get a tight line, and the hunt the way you want, to many out there, it’s the best part. You sure start in the right spot! Good luck
  12. Pm send
  13. Really Interesting post Mike. Glad to read you see much clearly the other side of the hill. Going back to the Spey casting lessons. I want to talk about how I deal with those Spey puzzle moves and blind spots by giving more attention to the hands level of balance/strength during the two casting planes in a dynamic roll cast. On the more advanced form of roll casting with two handed fly rods, we encounter a two different casting planes as soon as we looking to do a more dynamic roll cast or Spey cast. Without a proper foundation from the both hands level of strength to control the fly line, the learning curve will be full of inefficient and inconsistent moves that always slow the process. One familiar problem here, it’s the same problem most of us first encountered with the double haul with single hand fly rods, the non - dominant casting hand ! we can only consciously process so much information within a given timeframe, the average fly fisherman that it’s working 35 hrs a week it’s rig only to have so much attention space and when it’s full it’s full. Practice time doing the right exercise from the very first movement was the best way for me to start with a solid foundation, finding the NON DOMINANT vs THE DOMINANT hand balance that inTH fly rods are now fixed to the blank, it’s a huge part on how long the learning curve would take us, because, once we properly process the task by repetition, the more of what we are doing is automatic then we have more room to be focus in new elements of the exercise to spend on refinement of our movements and also, spot better the potential wrong doings. Advanced Spey is a versatile beast, the both hands level of strength balance can be now be customized to the actual scenario, fly leader and head setup, the different steps with the same demand of control during the two different casting planes moves (vertical &horizontal) any fly caster knows it takes a lot of practice to master this balance as a first step, without it, won’t be a good 180 rule, so is the back cast, same as a single hand, a perfect back cast it’s the best foundation for a perfect forward cast. Nothing can hurt more on the learning curve than a lousy 180 - balance back cast that wrongly makes the caster evaluate “new sensations “ to believe we are in the right track, when in reality, we are creating a bad habit piece that won’t do a tight fit in the next part of the Spey-puzzle move. We are missing that part in all the guidance comments about dynamic roll cast here, one critical principle it’s the 180, that 180 rule should be always the 100% of the key parts of the entire cast sequence but, it must be efficiently linked not only to all the previous vertical plane moves but also the next horizontal plane move, it was essential for me to control the right level of hands balance strength, if your instructor in the first couple hrs class doesn’t give you a specific exercise to evaluate NOT only your rod grip, but also your level of balance, you are not exactly starting with the best foundation, pain should be one of the first symptoms of wrong doing, pain in muscle and tendons can be easily spot, sometimes, with only few minutes of casting, not understanding or correcting the reason of the pain, we are only inefficiently casting under a constant stress, so prolonging the learning curve. Again By properly process the task by repetition, the more of what we are doing is automatic then we have more room to be focus in new elements of the exercise to spend on refinement of our movements. Great stuff here guys! Hope it helps Mag
  14. Cheapest running line & Shooting heads on the 3 densities, jetties usually are 360 wind and ocean exposed platforms, we might face a wind change of direction once we are in the middle of the jetty, so be ready to shift hands, cackhanded or do the Barnegat cast, sinking are much less wind resistance and “easy “ to cast. if we can’t do our homework before step in to the rocks because it’s at low light situation, I always start with a floating, and go from there, so a two sets o flash lights are important to consider. Great tips posted here. I usually use no waders, korkers and well drainage basket a must, stop at your trusty local shop or talk to locals for basic news by the last few tides, from presence of weeds to bait ...make sure they know it’s your first time in that jetty. My worst case scenario from 4:10 on the actual clip. https://youtu.be/Xu5ir6TOOsw We all hope all the cast are going to go smooth and hit target, but realistically, we all know that there is always going to be one cast, and it’s going to happen on that wave set that we didn’t get the timing very wisely for whatever the reason and if we didn’t anticipate the situation we are going to stress a bit if we didn’t planned the way out. There is usually no second chances on long casting from a jetty if your running line storage inside the basket doesn’t cooperate on the useless 80’ casting and it tangles at the stripping guide to only jump in to a birds nest pile at your feet, here we have a terrible situation only because it’s not sand under our feet, regardless how friendly the actual conditions are, things can go bad real quick, surprisingly, that many here didn’t mention, but it will if you spend enough time over any rocky structures. It’s when the line tangled at your feet gets suck by the incoming surf and disappear in to few of the the rocks gap and barnacles in a blink of the eye while your focus on the shooting head, leader and fly still fishing 40’ in front of you at the surf mercy but, now we open another front, that next wave set it’s building up coming your way while you are focusing on the line tangle at your feet... Keep your eyes on the wave sets. Cut the cheap running line, save the head if you can, do not try to go for it thinking you can safe the running line and untangle everything. Usually fast sinking heads are the worst to untangle from rocks and shells etc I like best to cast short about 2 or 3 times rod length parallel to the rocks, be safe and good luck! mag
  15. Why on the fly ? It’s a primitive sport, part of the human DNA, very primal instinct and without a doubt, as primitive as humans first discovered the potential of fire. It’s one of few ideal modern ways of a sport that best can fully connect me with some of the same feelings the previous generations of fishermen to even the most primitive ancestors millions of years ago also walk the same paths to only fool a fish on the most simple form they possible can. Many civilizations use this art form of attaching natural materials to any form of a representation of what today we know as a -hook- My personal path to this sport started in my home town with a corn stalks fly named “MALUCA” Commercial fishermen along the northern coast of Spain still use same concept to catch long fin tuna, for hundreds of years their ancestors use a “fly” made of dry corn stack fivers, the earliest European representations of maize are most likely those painted in frescoes near Rome dating from 1517. In the northern coast of Spain, In a local town named Lekeitio, it’s a museum, one of the displays it’s about “traditional arts of fishing” from Cod fish to Tuna, the main material was DRY CORN STACK FIBER. In northern Spain, corn was well established by the 1700s, after the corn is harvest, they dry under the sun for weeks to make corn flour, some of the stack fibers are saved and tie by men & women over a set of hooks to later be trolling behind a sail boat to deceive those seasonal tunas, many decades after the “fly pattern” was develop, it slowly drifted to the Mediterranean and the southern part of the country to catch tunas and other pelagic species. Still some fisherman are using same patterns as show in the picture below, also my first surf SBass on a MALUCA fly few years ago. -Another example The original Gallo de Leon it’s also another reason I tie flies and fly fish with it, from a old manuscript from 1539, locals use this feathers to tie wet fly patterns to later use with the dapping technique from the river bank, later they find another manuscript from 1624, they were a priest name Juan de Vergara described in detail how and when to use different feathers plugging from some of the local rosters breeds to tie wet flies in different wing tones depending on the time of the season. Still it’s always a dark side in this sport, and it’s important to understand what we only see as a simple fly pattern, we might no give the importance that it deserves. The French in the last century, renamed their own production of an good tying feather from their beautiful local -Limousine roosters breeders- as “Cod the Leon” for pure commercial interest, but we only are getting a copy of a great feather that greatly hurst to probably the irreversible slowly decline on the actual local Curueño town to the last 4 local roosters breeders located in the León province, this rosters are still part of the traditional “pesca a la leonesa” most Spanish traditionalist tiers still tie the flies by the river bank without the help of any vise, just holding the hook in their non dominant hand fingers to tie a few pattern s for the evening hatch. Spaniards wet fly and dry fly patterns are locally very popular and in high demand, perhaps the Perdigón pattern it’s the latest best addition to the sport from the original magic feather called -Gallo de León- Tying a fly it’s a sacred process for me, it’s my tribute and sing of deep respect to the Humans local traditions ability to create a fly pattern by observation of their local nature as a first inspiration hint. Respect the fly patterns!
  16. Hey JS sorry about the late reply... Hope the last practice went good. I have to start with a quote from another sol member, Drew... “ it’s the Indian not the arrow”... 300 g line should be right for your practice with the 5/6- 12' TH rod, 40 years in the water definitely helps you, 40 years casting a single hand fly rod under one style can be really bad for the ones we want things done quick... , I won't focus much on the lines weight other than manufacturers factory blank line recommendations this early in the practice game, by using the 40 years of single hand fly casting wisely, for sure 40 years will leave the so called “bad habits”deep marks in our dominant casting side arm memory muscle, to later in the game the bottom hand will also interfere with wrong doings, fatigue and burning sensation it’s a clear symptom, and when it happens it’s time to stop and spot the roots of the issue with the help of the video, a instructor once told us referring to bad habits...''sometimes we need a precision demolition first in both hands, to even a light sanding but what we can’t just do it’s stop and focus in other directions like the fly lines and leaders, the only important part now it’s the casting strokes until the foundation it's fully exposed, and there is no bad habits left there, it's only about casting principals and focusing over one simple cast at the time to balance the top and bottom hand as one smooth working team” Your standing. With short heads, we can keep the hands about shoulder width over the TH rod handles, also close to the center of gravity, inside the 'box" (watch video link below)the left or right foot in front won't make a huge different to practice other than, one stand it's allowing us to watch better the back cast than the other stand does, a no fly or yarn practice leader also help as I talk in the previous post the reasons -why no leader fly or yarn- One video from TI’m Rajeff it’s absolutely a must to watch few times a week, to even every time before practice to refresh the critical dots we must keep connecting. Best Mag
  17. That you guys, appreciated the suggestions. It really all start here, believe it or not, SurfSkagit it’s probably 90% a SOL product, countless times reading from the shadows and picking whatever might be worth here and there to tried later knee deep. No much posting here since I first joined SOL...,but here it is, a guy just like many others, I’m also like jerseystriper, looking for a 2 handed, perhaps now it’s time to slowly share and, paid back if you will. I don’t spread the content all over the media because I do not like it, so I don’t have It, I like the low profile and see how people react to the time and work I gladly share and show in the water. So...thank you again very much!! Jerseystriper and another new 2 handed SOLer it’s posting about this subject now. Andrew Moi clip in the other post, it’s a gem, worth every minute with only the visual part, anyone can get a great foundation in to his casting style by mimicking Andrew, but please, only once we know first, the fly casting principles. I agree that all the words in the world can’t probably help as much as a day in the water, also with a FFF instructor or a professional license FF guide as well, and with such a great family it must be even harder to find spare $$ and the time to hire them more than few times in a season just keep track on how tight those loops are looking. That’s one of the reasons I consider self video tapping my casting drills, to me the smart phone videos can be so important to the DIYers casters community, Jim should only dedicate one board to this part The next footage doesn’t show much like Andrew does, but I wrote my 5 most personal common errors in the description below, that’s perhaps the most important part, all are inspired from reading post from others, Im totally see we also share the same issues at one time or another. To jerseystriper and SOLers hope it helps!! Best Mag HELPFUL INFO on what I did to short the learning curve and spot errors and faults. Safety first, hat and glasses please, tape the rod ferrules also! On your smart phone (slow motion ) entire body and good background contrast to spot both loop nose shape and turn over view, record the full overhead cast at your PB back and forward loop size control, water sand or open grass field works, no distance need only almost full head out for new starters, only a minute clip long and with NO fly or yarn, this is because we don’t want any kind of noise at the end of the leader like a pop or snap, that will tell a lot to the caster that don’t watch the back cast, a yarn or fly won’t help in this step. The key it’s to spot the wrong doing and learn to correct it. How do you know when you are doing it right, because you will also LEARN to do it wrong as you please. What happens once you do a slow, smooth transition with a concise movement to form the best loop size control a 100 times a day? You create memory muscle over every aspect of the casting stroke. You’ll soon will be casting any leader and fly of your choice. I like grass leaders to do a basic roll cast or a more advanced Spey practice to print the memory muscle needed in the different movements on those T, C or whatever Obi -One Kenobi practice move drill cast it’s for the day. Just remember a OH it’s a one vertical plane cast move, back and forward. Spey it’s a two plane casting move, vertical and horizontal, both share the same forward vertical cast plane move. Master you OH first, don’t get hype over Spey, you’ll get there. So... for the next level of practice my best drill to master the TH forward cast, it’s a simple roll cast with a grass leader and, from my own back yard, with no excuses, I always keep my practice rod set up ready to go, at least 15 minutes or 100 cast, every day, it helps a lot guys!! What faults should we look for! In TH fly rods? I share here 5. DOS & DONTS 1- improper power application, being smooth is key, a collapsed loop it’s a way to spot the fault.(go to part 3) 2- not good tracking, 180 rule principal, picture a caster birds view of the cast, a front or back recording angle should be enough to spot the fault, we lost loop formation, lost of power in the forward cast, fly loop line lacks of straight top loop leg not straight, done wrong we should spot a kind of a spiral motion shape as the loop moves unrolling power less forward. My buggyman it took me years master the 180 rule, I do a drill from the surf, called “GUILLIS cast”. It’s a sand haul cast roughly speaking. 3-timing, the longer the line the longer the stroke, the shorter the line the shorter the stroke, either it’s to long or too short it’s wrong, the no fly leader helps here to spot a fault if we heard a “pop” we need to slow down in the process, remember START SLOW FINISH FAST-SS-FF. 4-pushing over the top, circular push, dominant hand over the reel seat take most of the work, there is a way that helps me to “educate “ the dominant top hand. Just drop the top hand tight to reel seat, with 75% of the head length out of rod tip only, focus to try to form either a good top straight leg loop, or a fairly controlled different loop sizes, but this time use the 75% of the work for the hand under the reel only, the top hand it’s there as a “off center” fulcrum kind of balance point, the best efficient way to move the line over a TH rod it’s the hand under the reel, being able to control the end of the line with our bottom hand it’s a huge advantage to shorten the learning curve dots. How we spot a wrong doing, pain or burning sensation, over the tendons, muscle over the dominant casting arm and shoulder. No pain, equals safe practicing! 5-rolling the dominant casting shoulder, easy to spot a rounded, wide loops. Again, It’s a dominant hand fault. It ruins the right way the rod tip path should travel, always in a straight line until the end of the transition before the rotation to the abrupt stop. I do recommend to hire a FFF CASTING INSTRUCTOR as a group, or individually. Do not forget you camera! Best Mag Thank you for watching. '' Casters should exercise caution in these pursuits lest injury befell them Experiencing pain, muscle burning, reduced capacity or other warning signs of oner-use injury provides opportunities to act wisely. STOP! ICE the area of focal symptoms (remember not to apply cold directly to skin). REST the area completely until no symptoms persist. Re-start at a lower level of intensity and duration. If pain arises in multiple areas, new joint noises appear, motion becomes newly limited, numbness or tingling present in any area, or swelling stays beyond 48 hours, get thee to a physician for proper treatment. ''
  18. Hello Tim, first time I PM you, let me give you my congratulations for the site, I must to say, I hate how some sol members use the political graffiti !! Hey... it's a free country! :)

     

    The PM, its about the swivel / braided video link i copy and paste from my channel, I'm sorry about it, I did it before and I inquare a removal  to SOL if not allow, and you didn't.

    Was there anything wrong with the link? What do you mean with ''this kind of videos'? :confused:

     

    Any way, it won't happen again.

    Thank you.

    https://youtu.be/aHNfnwlGDMo

     

    Manny

     

    1. TimS

      TimS

      This is a public place to post, not private - you are posting on my profile :)

      You can’t promote your social media channels here. When you start a thread and post your video it’s promoting your channel. If someone asks a question and your video answers their question you can embed the video as a response :) 

    2. magayanes

      magayanes

      :) sorry...

      I’m ok with being open to the rest of SOL members Tim.

      Roger that, no open video threads to promote my channel other than directly covers other members question or subject post interest :th: 

       

      Thanks again Tim !

       

       

  19. * Loop to loop “shock absorber”, when using Skagit heads, any shooting head, especially sinking shooting heads, the job of that double braided loop is to take the stress on both loop ends, friction caused fatigue on any loop, dirt and sand somehow gets there and slowly damaged the factory coating end loops first, usually the weakest part of our “chain link” are the loops factory coat, at first It didn’t make sense to me, we supposed to clean your gear, but I give them a AAA after many seasons of saltwater abuse. I use them on sink tip sections like T19-T20 It extends the life of my factory sink tips loops coating. The cons, they are sand collectors, and see weed magnets if they only flare. I like to insert a piece of 40 to 50lb inside the braid on the swivel-less ones and glue it right before the tension test. Very durable, a SOR attendant in the west, first share few of those loops back in 2008, after that a Rio put a swivel, I also use the swivel as show on the clip, not for everyone also, bring the swivel inside the rod tip it’s annoying to most overhead fly casters that they don’t like to stop the retrieving at the hang.
  20. Is it worth getting into two handed / switch casting? I have used SH my whole life and i hear good things about it but i have never tried it.o To me, it was not only worth it, it was a game changer. I memorize the principles in my first SH casting class with a 5# fly rod, but my lack of strength on my dominant casting side just couldn’t take the wrong doing and the fatigue make it worse, nothing work once I pass a 6# fly rod or even when a distance casting was required on smaller weights, I always struggled every single time. Having my extra hand under the reel seat fixed was tricky at first, but when you first find the sweet spot and balance the system, you definitely see the potential, and the learning curve it’s actually enjoyable, no doubt about it!! -I have been thinking of getting a switch rod but 11-12 foot rods seem a little excessive to me. You better than anyone here knows your local structure, bait and best way to do a fly presentation in your local spots. My choice was mainly physical. For others it’s sight casting or just long blind casting to only guess what the fly it’s doing 100’ from the rod tip. Others like the close contact with the fly and prioritize not only having more time the fly in the water, but with full control by doing more hunting and less guessing. I believe in the last one, but love to cast far, just because I can now and I’m pretty sure I will when I’m 80. -What are the pros and cons of TH vs SH? TH /Switch-Longer lever greater possibility to move farther distance heavy resistance fly patterns or tandem rigs. All SH fly casting principles are the same to properly make a Switch and TH work, both share exactly the same pros and cons , I always like to think how, 50 years ago in the ocean front those group of guys first cast a SH fly rod, how they did it with such a lack of high end materials we have now, perhaps ...respect the ocean. casting principles probably not much to read about it, work hard, build skills, endurance ,best generation ever,...God bless them all...! -It is hard to use TH rods? Not really, actually once we fully dominated the SH casting techniques like roll cast, mending, double haul, water haul... the only drastic transition if you will , it’s that, ideally, we must keep the both hands fixed to the rod at all times moving in opposite direction, again, not different as doing a Double Haul with a SH, both hands move in opposite direction also, find your balance point, fail, use a smart phone to figure out why, later by looking at the principles try to spot the issue and repeat. Best of luck and thank you for your service! Here it’s a clip that should give you a view of what can be done with a TH from the NJ jetties https://youtu.be/kcvlc-LJBSo
  21. Thanks a lot guys, appreciated. Agree if you don’t have sentimental attachment to a fly rod setup. I should mention something very important on my previous post, I find out the hard way about tuning short blanks, I like killi called Franken-rod. Wonder if that’s the reason for manufacturers not to add this feature on short blanks...? Let me explain please... Rod tip in short blanks, travels closer to the caster, two hands are fixed now to the short blank, so we must be aware of that “blind spot”on winds at our back specially, and compensate either it’s a Spey/dynamic roll cast or a OH cast. The way I compensate that “blind spot” -OH CAST - Belgian or oval cast does it. Just speed up the tempo on the back cast by mindfully focus of the bottom hand to build a solid smooth trust on the back cast and used accordingly to the actual wind speed at our back. I don’t drift with short blanks or slide line. I try to finish the back cast with enough tension on the line just before completely extend, I’m looking for a “J”shape on my back cast. For a Spey /Dynamic roll cast the anchor placement it’s key for NOT to get hurt with the fly, usually it’s about rod length on blanks from 10’ plus. To compensate the anchor placement on the actual 9’ clip blank, I add my arm length either it’s air or waterborne anchor, again bottom hand it’s a great assistance here, I really need to generate more speed on that D loop with strong winds from the back. Reverse C or Snap Tee to a P poke give me enough time to abort the cast if I anticipate the anchor inside the red line. TH rod s-Lever class 1 it’s in the group of a force multiplier. SH rods - Lever class 3 it’s also part of another group, a speed multiplier. Individuals with the right tendons, muscle and strength, can really practice for longer periods of time, and so develop some incredible technique and distance on single hand fly rods, I just don’t have it on rods over 6#, so my “Franken-rods” put me back in the water and now I can truly see the potential behind a good casting principle by only adding a 4”, now all my late 90s 8#_9# and #10 fly rods have those 3” to 4” right under the fulcrum, it really help my lack of strength over my dominant arm and pretty effortless I can move the resistance. Short heads also help me tremendously, Skagit systems absolutely a blessing for my local spots and my soft strength. Last night in the bay throwing OPST HEAD with a 10’ floating tip section, with something another local show me last season, but I never use it until last night, we both don’t know how to called, but it’s a variation of a sink popper dropper, did the cut with a Ray’s fly. I would never be able to cast this rig if it’s because of the lever class 1 you see in the picture I’m sure Killi knows the blank in the picture! thanks again mag A clip link that can explain more about levers. Probably and more adult oriented can be found in the searcher, this clip explains about levers. https://www.classhook.com/resources/2069-beakman-s-world-the-different-levers
  22. Great solid information about Scandi and Skagit in reference to the cast ability, rod to head ratios, grains and fly patterns profile, size and weight. I would say the best for me on the Skagit heads, it’s tho “on-site customization” to optimize the fly control on any part of the water column depth is a plus on the surf for Skagits only vs the more limited Scandi systems. Love both equally, but in my seasonal spots along the NE coast, only one can do it all, the Skagit head, not only with long rods, but with any rod length we already own, specially with a 4” class 1 lever right under reel seat. I’m sharing this clip, to show parts of a full season using this fly rod setup. and how versatile this systems are with only a 9’10#. I just put a conversion Switch kit on a LouTabory XX series and hit the surf for a entire season, nothing else, I must say, I snap the rod right few inches above the top handle grip with a 575g skagit short after a WBorne anchor on the second outing, be mindful on the grains, a 550 is what I’m using on the clip, today’s I have a 500g on a multi density head Skagit, with a 10’ of T-20 to target the lip on knarly conditions and those back bay gator blues on full size Bob’s banger in may. The main difference between both heads systems it’s fly presentation, and fly presentation with the control over any of my the fly rigs and conditions, It can be a jig pattern or a tandem of half & half heavily dressed, popper dropper or a 12” beast. You probably can do well with both in a continuous predictable steam flow current but, honestly I don’t know anything about freshwater fly fishing. I encourage anyone before buy new TH or Switch to go for that dust collector fly rod, and put a Switch rod kit. It might be a pleasant surprise that can not only do good on the short term, specially on the wallet, but in exactly the same spots we use a TH or a Switch, you can’t now it until you try it... I’ll be waiting for your thoughts on that new setup, good luck Drew. Hope it helps. mag Once again, please delete Tim if I’m against SOL rules posting my clips. https://youtu.be/IL0YrgzE2dw
  23. First!! Good luck on that Igniter, sweet stick!! Ooh ...Please don’t overhead cast that baby!! Please guys search Clayton Yee Spey casting the Hawaii flats to blind casting for bonefish with traditional Spey rods, what locally it’s called “ bombing”...since 2011 is the picture somewhere down there... Mike, in only one season, fly fishing the surf change dramatically, talking Spey from 12 years ago it’s unrealistic, specially once Skagit heads become more popular. Today it’s already late in fly fishing the surf with the new rod blanks tech and every season new generation of Skagit heads, from there , some are doing what we can do only on conventional regarding fly presentation, control but also effortless with any fly rod we already own in many so called knarly scenarios. I must say there’s nothing wrong with fly fishing by only overhead cast a short head season after season, but in the XXI please, no offense guys, it’s kind of being stuck in time, “groundhog day again” for fly casting, everything it’s evolving from rod, lines, fly materials, Mike, I embrace fully the old church, but I’m always open to listen the new prayers. -Casting in the surf. We all know the old church guy, who practice and teach fly casting also over grass and, established few rock solid fly casting principles. One of them was... “No cast can be made until the end of the line it’s moving” Well, that’s with any fly line and rod length. But once you short the heads to compact the grains, it works even better, he was ahead of his time!! Now it’s the boring part, the Laws of Physics -surface tension- that’s present on any fluid, surface and finish texture with more or less efficiency depending on the situation we are trying to proof that principle. One familiar technique to understand the -surface or water tension- “principle” it’s the -water haul- , either it’s rough ocean or dry sand, a cast can be done, and every time we are doing this technique, we proof it. I even witnessed Lefty doing this on a parking lot in the early 2000’s in Paramus NJ, the old Ramsey outdoors store. He was making sure a very important point over the fact of being SMOOTH, unbelievable he did a “ concrete haul “ !! and once again in a flawless move, he put enough tension under the rod tip to pop all the fly line out of the reel spool. A Spey cast in many ways, it’s exactly a continuous application of a “water haul principle”, if you will , only moving the line in a SMOOTH continuous tension by also changing angles in different directions to find our best line anchor reposition to the actual target cast but, again, all based in the same -Surffce Tension- fact, allowing anyone to use the handy -water haul- next time we try to Spey cast, visualize our own water haul move stroke, we have to only anticipate and control the “complicate” moves and make it work in to our advantage, never by horsing the system but, by consistently being SMOOTH. Definitely you are again doing what I also did, killing one of the Lefty’s principles and at the same time, some of the laws of physics. Come to our church brother....!! Hate to use SOL to post my own YT channel clips. Please Jim delete if so. This two clip shows 11’ and 11’3” Switch rods, and Skagit short in 500 and 525. One clip show some wrong doing and fixed, the other casting a bulky beast with a reverse C Spey, both on the family group of the airborne in the touch and go to also with a sustained anchor, group, fundamentally all based on the above principles and from the grass to the ocean front. Reading your other post on your struggles & good over the path to Spey technique. I can tell by the way you are getting surprised by the rod loading response, and the positive results, you are not far from the top of the mountain Mike, great move on the instructor as well!! lest get together Mike and Chris best of luck Mike mag
  24. TTT and price drop to $35 Thank you again
  25. Pandemic reading it’s almost done for me. Want to move some books from the shelves. Very entertaining and fun reading from Chris Santella. The art of fly tying book it’s a must to have not to a fly tyer but any outdoorsman. Books are only few months old. $45 buyer takes the actual shipping cost and PP fees please. Local pick up near 08753 also available. Thank you SOL