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About george6308

  • Birthday 09/13/1947


  • About Me:
    Retired Philadelphia Policeman
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    hunting fishing and boating
  • What I do for a living:
    retired law enforcement

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  • Location
    Philadelphia PA

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  1. I use older Penn's and have never needed to upgrade only add to my collection. Mono line gets replaced when needed however the braided Dacron seems to last. I still feel well armed with my 1963 vintage Penn 85 Seaby as just being in the outdoors is half the fun.
  2. Another way is to cut a slot using a Dremel in the remaining part of the broken screw. Heat the screw with a torch and remove screw with a proper fitting screw driver. The Aluminium expands when heated breaking the bond between the broken screw and the rotor cup.
  3. Remove the rotor cup from the reel body. Try a vinegar soak to get rid of the blue corrosion, then try Kroil, PB Blaster, or any penetrating oil leaving it soak for a day or so. Than center punch what is left of the broken screw, using a left handed drill bit with your drill in reverse drill it out. I would retap the threads if the threads show damage but I do not know what the thread size is. You could measure a new bail screw to find out. Then obtain the proper size tap and retap the threads.
  4. It was called the donut theory of population. Center of a town changes and pushes the former residents out towards the outskirts of a city. Former residents now move into the inter city and it keeps on happening. In Philadelphia look at Mayfair, Fishtown, Brewerytown, and Southwark all changed.
  5. Penn 180 Baymaster or similar sized Penn convential reel with one of my older 8 foot down rigger Ulgly Sticks. In spinning Penn 712 , 4300 SS, or similar sized Penn Spingfisher reel on light action rod. Both using Door Gunner's float rigs.
  6. I started my "reel" experience converting a Penn 185 (no star drag) into a 180 in the waiting room at the Penn plant in the later 60's. Gave the receptionist a list of the needed parts gleaned from the catolog Penn included in their reel boxes. .Used the Penn reel tool and the rest is history. I still have the reel. Changed the handle to a 24-155, upgraded to HT-100 drag system, and added a 29-100L spool over time. It is stil a great back bay reel.
  7. Why the locked down drag? Kind of defeats the purpose of having a drag setting on your reel.
  8. Years of experience and learning by doing helps. As do reading and remembering different solutions posed by others. . Parts lists and diagrams are an immense help. Proper quality and well fitting tools are required. Average Home Deport/Lowes tool just do not cut it. Web sites like SOL etc are a big help. As for repair shops in Philadelphia except for Penn factory there are none left. Even tackle shops except for three left are no more".
  9. Your are more than welcome. Those Penn reels are over built and if taken care of will last a long time. Shame some of the parts are no longer available.
  10. First version of Penn 700. Note the diecast crosswind arm (part 43-700) and the cast handle.
  11. The ice available today is not as cold as the ammonia ice from the old time ice houses. The machine made ice is great for making drinks cold but doesn't hold it’s cold for long when used to keep foods.
  12. Also found in the Neshamity Creek in Tyler State Park!
  13. Penn used to sell two different types of reel oil: regular viscosity much thicker than today's Penn reel oil in green metal tubes. Later is was sold in blue and white tubes, metal at first and then in plastic. A thicker oil was sold as Penn Tropic Lube in red tubes. These were the original lubes designed for Penn reels including the three in the Squidder series, 140, 145, & 146. The tip of the tubes fit the Penn oil ports (one shot oil). The newer Penn reel oil is much thinner in viscosity but works. Various types of reel oil are available but to me they all seem to work the same. Break Free CLP, Lucas Reel Oil, and Penn all get my vote. The AT crowd prefers TS321. STP is not an true oil. It's a viscosity index improver used to thicken automotive lube oil. It the component that makes a 5 wt oil act like a 20 or 30 weight as the oil warms up. It has been used to slow spool speed.
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