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Posts posted by HellRaY

  1. join their facebook page, plenty of testimonials there.


    yes, i have the 10frame mighty mite thermal treatment. been using it for a year.

    no problem with queen laying, one queen lays on 2 deeps at staggering pace. broodbox 9 frame full of brood, deep super 6 frames of brood. treated 2x this year.




  2. havent done splits due to constant rain.


    On 8/5/2019 at 11:16 AM, Gilbey said:

    Nice :th:

    What method of splitting do you prefer?

    just a regular 50/50 split. i move the box with the queen to a different spot and put a branch infront of the entrance.

    the queenless box i leave in the same location so the foragers comes back to it and makes it stronger. I wait 24hrs then put a mated queen inside a queen cage with candy. i dont let my bees raise their own queen due to the following:

    1. florida has africanized bees, if a virgin queen goes on a mating flight and gets mated with an africanized drone (even a drone with small percentage africanized) the bees will carry the genetics and the hive becomes hot.


    2. i dont want to wait 28 days for a queen to lay eggs especially this late in the year, by then half of the bee population in the hive dead/dying and with the bad SHB this year i want a strong hive.

  3. did a split last week friday, saw the queen already released yesterday and roaming around.


    opened up my original colony that i had split 4x last february/march and it's bursting with bees.

    i have 3 colonies (90% full) on double deep broodboxes i am going to split this coming weekend.

    making these 3 colonies into 7 single deep colonies and 1 nuc, maybe 2.


    pic is of todays inspection.

    first pic is the 2nd frame 10-frame deep super


    2nd pic is the same 2nd frame with the first frame below it beside the top cover



    3rd pic is the last frame on the 10 frame super.


  4. 6 hours ago, Belmo said:


    This was my good hive, and the other hive, while still alive, is very, very small -- I just added a second brood box like two weeks ago (it took them until then to fill one medium box). I doubt I'll be able to get them to survive the winter -- I doubt they'll be robust enough by the fall to do that.


    if it is small hive dont add another broodbox. let them build all the way to 80% before you add a broodbox. you're not helping the bees by adding a broodbox when they are small.


    for them to be robust you need to feed. 

  5. 2 hours ago, Gilbey said:

    The part I don’t get is that I think the queen is fine. I found another pic from the inspection from the weekend. There was plenty of larva and eggs. Here’s a frame of brood from the top deep box. It seems to be a good pattern and solid. 0E37452F-5250-4789-BD12-15CCDD994034.jpeg.6577cb945aa4e6f5ed46e0136a58f79b.jpeg


    If I did a walk away split would you suggest I leave the bottom box and the current queen in the current location and take the top box with the queen cells to a new location? 


    I don’t think we are in full dearth but I do think the main flow is over. 


    Crud. Now I have to buy more equipment. 

    if that frame is from the top box, and 70% is like that i would split.

    do you know which box the queen is at?

    if not, put a queen excluder, check in 3 days and whichever box has eggs that's where the queen is at.

    take the box with the queen and move it to a new location, put a branch in front of the entrance so the new bees reorients themselves and doesnt return to the old location.

    the queenless box stays at the old location so when the foragers return you'll have a good amount of bees left on the queenless box.


    if it was me, i'd buy a mated queen rather than wait 28days(if she makes it back from mating flight) for a new queen to start laying eggs, by then half the population is dead/ dying. i'll buy a vsh mated queen and introduce it to the queenless box 24hrs after, use a 4x5 screen mesh so the pheromones dissipates faster rather than leaving them in the queen cage.

    and i'd feed both boxes with 1:1 syrup and a few drops of hbh.

  6. 2 hours ago, Gilbey said:

    You can’t tell from the pic but the cells have larva. 


    I am perplexed. They had room to grow. A friend suggested I go thru the bottom deep to see what’s happening down there. The queen is still

    laying. There is a solid worker brood pattern. There are stores. 


    He suggested culling the queen cells and checking back in a week to see if they reformed. If they do he says the only other option is to split. I don’t have any boxes left. 


    It’s a mystery. But I am learning. 

    if you cull it and the queen is sick or swarms then you are left queenless.

    check in 3 days if it is capped, split. do a walkaway. leave the queenless hive in the old location and move the queenright to a new location, put a branch infront of the entrance so the bees reorients and dont go back to the old location. if you're on a dearth, feed both.


  7. On 6/12/2019 at 10:31 AM, Gilbey said:

    Nice looking apiary HellRay! Looks like a southern clime. Where are you located?

    I was in my hives last weekend. It looks like I might get some honey to harvest from my hive #1. Hive #2, my split hive is plugging along, lots of brood, but there will be no honey from that hive this year. Hive #3 is my new colony I started from a package this Spring. It's booming, and added a honey super which they have already started to build out. It's amazing what a healthy queen in a strong colony can accomplish! 




  8. 11 hours ago, Gilbey said:

    Hmmm.....potential issue brewing. Hive #3 is a new colony from a package this Spring. They are booming. They have just about filled a second deep box with brood and stores. In early June I added a honey super to hopefully get some honey to harvest. Well, yesterday a hive inspection revealed they have done nothing with the honey super, and there are 4-5 swarm cells on the bottom of frames from the upper deep box. Uncharted waters for me, so not sure what to do. I'll be doing some reading tonight. 




    that's empty, i cant see anything an egg inside from the pic. practice cups.

    add extra wax to ur supers or spray with sugar water and feed 1:1 to draw comb.

    check to see if there's eggs or wait 3.5-4 days and check again to see if it is capped. 

    8 hours ago, jamesdart said:

    Is it too late in the year to start from scratch?

    depends where you are.

    if i were from the cold areas, canada, minnesota, and i want to start right now, i will get a full 10frame instead of a nuc.

    wait a week, add a super and feed 1:1 then when 80% is drawn feed 2:1 for wintering.


    edit: the super is not for honey for personal consumption, it is for their winter stores so they dont starve.