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Everything posted by HellRaY

  1. join their facebook page, plenty of testimonials there. yes, i have the 10frame mighty mite thermal treatment. been using it for a year. no problem with queen laying, one queen lays on 2 deeps at staggering pace. broodbox 9 frame full of brood, deep super 6 frames of brood. treated 2x this year.
  2. i would encourage you to look at heat thermal treatment for varroa.
  3. that's called LMFAO!
  4. i would use table saw, band saw for me is more like cutting curves.
  5. not ccd if there is no queen left bhind
  6. uncapped you need to make sure it is 19% on the refractometer so it doesnt ferment
  7. mighty mite killer, it is a thermal treatment that keeps the hive temp at 106degrees for 160mins. this temp kills shb and varroa destructor.
  8. thermal treatment for mite control so u can treat even with supers on as u r not using chemicals but heat.
  9. strapped down for hurricane
  10. marked a queen today. no green so pink will do
  11. i would like to make meade one day
  12. made 3 splits today. will do the other 3 next week.
  13. havent done splits due to constant rain. just a regular 50/50 split. i move the box with the queen to a different spot and put a branch infront of the entrance. the queenless box i leave in the same location so the foragers comes back to it and makes it stronger. I wait 24hrs then put a mated queen inside a queen cage with candy. i dont let my bees raise their own queen due to the following: 1. florida has africanized bees, if a virgin queen goes on a mating flight and gets mated with an africanized drone (even a drone with small percentage africanized) the bees will carry the genetics and the hive becomes hot. 2. i dont want to wait 28 days for a queen to lay eggs especially this late in the year, by then half of the bee population in the hive dead/dying and with the bad SHB this year i want a strong hive.
  14. putting another stand, getting ready to do 7-8 splits
  15. did a split last week friday, saw the queen already released yesterday and roaming around. opened up my original colony that i had split 4x last february/march and it's bursting with bees. i have 3 colonies (90% full) on double deep broodboxes i am going to split this coming weekend. making these 3 colonies into 7 single deep colonies and 1 nuc, maybe 2. pic is of todays inspection. first pic is the 2nd frame 10-frame deep super 2nd pic is the same 2nd frame with the first frame below it beside the top cover 3rd pic is the last frame on the 10 frame super.
  16. if it is small hive dont add another broodbox. let them build all the way to 80% before you add a broodbox. you're not helping the bees by adding a broodbox when they are small. for them to be robust you need to feed.
  17. warm/hot electrical wires means the current passing thru the wire is too much for the wire to handle. need a thicker gauge wire or a lower current to pass
  18. inspected 2 hives today, my weakest hive is doing a little bit better. feeding both hives with 1:1 for brood production. hopefully max population in time for fall nectar flow.
  19. if that frame is from the top box, and 70% is like that i would split. do you know which box the queen is at? if not, put a queen excluder, check in 3 days and whichever box has eggs that's where the queen is at. take the box with the queen and move it to a new location, put a branch in front of the entrance so the new bees reorients themselves and doesnt return to the old location. the queenless box stays at the old location so when the foragers return you'll have a good amount of bees left on the queenless box. if it was me, i'd buy a mated queen rather than wait 28days(if she makes it back from mating flight) for a new queen to start laying eggs, by then half the population is dead/ dying. i'll buy a vsh mated queen and introduce it to the queenless box 24hrs after, use a 4x5 screen mesh so the pheromones dissipates faster rather than leaving them in the queen cage. and i'd feed both boxes with 1:1 syrup and a few drops of hbh.
  20. if you cull it and the queen is sick or swarms then you are left queenless. check in 3 days if it is capped, split. do a walkaway. leave the queenless hive in the old location and move the queenright to a new location, put a branch infront of the entrance so the bees reorients and dont go back to the old location. if you're on a dearth, feed both.
  21. very hot in florida the past couple of days, bearding on my solid bottom hive. gonna replace with a screen bottom.
  22. florida
  23. that's empty, i cant see anything an egg inside from the pic. practice cups. add extra wax to ur supers or spray with sugar water and feed 1:1 to draw comb. check to see if there's eggs or wait 3.5-4 days and check again to see if it is capped. depends where you are. if i were from the cold areas, canada, minnesota, and i want to start right now, i will get a full 10frame instead of a nuc. wait a week, add a super and feed 1:1 then when 80% is drawn feed 2:1 for wintering. edit: the super is not for honey for personal consumption, it is for their winter stores so they dont starve.
  24. for conventional use lc20 for stripper, no sense using a kw30 on a conventional. lc 20- lc16m - lc12 then kw12 all the way and an mn tiptop or lc16 - lc12 - kw12 all the way
  25. plexi will haze over time, i think the salt water will reduce the time it stays clear significantly.