Jig Man

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About Jig Man

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  1. On those I just used Rust-Oleum spray paint and devcon 2 ton, 30 minute epoxy. The epoxy is not the best, but easy to use, can get it locally. Proto types I do for me I really don't care if they don't last as long as they last long enough for testing purposes.
  2. Agree. I think this is a key point with gliders. The weights pull or pushing the plug along. On the foam question, I have not had it crack like you mention. I had some issues with one of the foams a few years back, but chalked it up to having sat around in the cold shop for a couple of seasons. On resin and balloons, I measure mine with the small one once cups. If I use 1/2 oz side a and 1/2 oz side b, then the max balloons would be 1 oz measured in the cup. The more balloons the less durable, though less dense plug.
  3. TSA You might try pouring one and then using that to experiment with weight amount and placement. I would also suggest placing the weight as low in the body as possible. The weight behind the belly hook location, I might use a slug as long as the two together and lay it on its side. I think how you have it is a little high in the body. The front weight, if needed, I would also place on its side and low in the body like the other slug. You will get a more stable plug if the weight is kept low in the body. On mine, the lead is almost even with the belly of the plug and only needs a little epoxy putty to cover it up. You might also up the micro-balloons to make a more buoyant plug and use more lead to get it to sit right. On some of my wood gliders, the lead weighs as much as the plug, all hardware and hooks combined. This is for a sinking version. You might also try bending the line tie some. On mine I have the line tie centered, but have sometimes bent it up or down to get it swimming right. For the stick bait versions I have done, one shot of lead, behind the belly hook centered on the balance point, with the tail slightly down in the water and the nose poking up above the water. I have seen others that have a single tail weight, but have not tried that yet. When I am figuring out the lead set up on these, I'll put a snap on the nose of the plug too. Not as necessary on the larger ones, but can really make a difference on smaller ones. Without the snap they may sink as I want them, but add the snap and they are nose heavy. Note that with a stick bait, the action and how you work them is different than a glider. Cast, come tight with the plug. Point the tip of the rod at the plug, tip slightly up (around 10 o'clock position if 12 is straight up in the air), and then sweep the tip of the rod to the side and down. Rod tip ends up around the 8 o'clock position. Pause until the plug pops back on top, then repeat. The plug will pop as the sweep starts and then "swim" for the rest of the sweep. You can also work them like a spook. This for the floating topwater version.
  4. Start with one plug type and get that down before you try another. Pick a plug that you use a lot. Maybe study various designs that are out there and figure out what the differences in design do for the action. If need be, clone your favorite. Once you have that down, try to tweak it to better work in the areas that you like to fish. You will get to the point where you will have confidence in the ones you make. Once you have that first one down, try another plug type and repeat the process. Don't worry about getting all fancy on your paint schemes when starting out. The basic colors: white, yellow, and black will do just fine. Rattle cans work just fine for this. If you want to get wild, try two tone schemes (e.g., yellow back, white belly). Ugly plugs that have good action will catch. Pretty plugs that don't swim right will waste space in your plug bag. You will waste some wood while learning the process. Starting out with some cheap dowels from Homies or Lowes will be fine and won't break the bank (just seal them well). Tools will depend somewhat on the types of plugs you want to try. The traditional surf plugs (metal lip, pencil, popper, etc.) can easily be done on a lathe. Red Fin and bomber type minnows, some shaping with a belt sander and then hand sand. Don't forget the safety gear too: respirator, face shield (for lathe). Be fore warned, it can be very addictive! Good luck!
  5. Is pouring your own weights possible? Do it sells a blank mold that can easily be drilled on drill press. Other options are scrap aluminum and drill the same way or a hard wood like maple can be used to pour a few weights before you start to get too much flashing on the edges of the lead.
  6. If you are having to drill thru the lead for the thru wire it might be better to either use a wider diameter slug or try two slugs, one right behind the first slug. Other option would be to mill out a slot for the lead and lay the slug in the hole horizontally rather than vertical. Your glider will be more stable with lead lower in the belly than if the lead continues past the center line.
  7. A quick search on this forum should bring up a thread on gliders that I started earlier this year. Basics of what make them work. Some good info by others in that thread too.
  8. Winch.
  9. That's just so wrong. This is so much more bassmaster style. Just add those rod racks and cooler to this one and now you're talking....
  10. To get that big wake, I would try something like a pikie. Cast a few times to see the action. If you are wanting a bigger wake on top than what you are getting, bend the lip down (towards the belly hook) a little. Cast and observe. Adjust as necessary. A surfster (unlikely that you will adjust the lip on this one) would be another good choice. You should be able to get both plugs swimming on top with a big wake at with a slow retrieve. Large freshwater impoundment and herring imitations. You fishing during the alewife spawn on a large lake?
  11. Cool idea. Might have to try that with my mold
  12. I might have learned a couple of things over the years Glad to hear that yours are doing what you want them to do!
  13. Second that!
  14. Think Bernzy did it first with his Surf Howdy. Work it like a spook, or slow wake it like you would a stubby needle.
  15. Hand carve them outside the apartment. Rattle can paints outside too. It can be done. I travel with work and have built stuff while in hotel rooms.