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Jig Man

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  1. Jig Man


    Not sure I know what you mean by needle type weighting
  2. Jig Man


    Your timing is good, I've spent a bunch of time over the last month or so messing with stickbaits. I certainly won't claim to be an expert on them by any means. I still have much to learn too. For example, I know some commercial baits have a tail weight, or only a tail weight. I have not been able to get similar baits to work right. Some observations based on what I have been able to figure out. Definitely some overlap with gliders. You don't really need flat sides like you do on gliders. Flatter on the belly, curved back, and taper on the nose and tail are fine. Best weighting I've found is on both sides of the belly hook. Rather than cylinder weights in a couple of locations, I've found that longer, flat weights work better. The one pictured here (actually reworked a glider) has two shots of lead, one on either side of the belly hook. The lead behind the hook extends from just past the swivel hole to where the end of the hook/thumb is on the bait. Front one is a bit shorter ending just south of the gill slit. This one is resin around 4.75 inches and 1.5 oz. Similar size as yours. It walks well, does the S-swim, and a tighter swim if you sweep the rod tip. I still need to figure out how to get a tighter swim like you would get sweeping a bomber or SP. Mine will roll some on a harder sweep. Looking at your plug, I'm wondering if it is not too round. Maybe could use some taper at the nose and tail. Weighting may need to be adjusted too. You might be better off starting out with the 3/4 board rather than a dowel. I actually took sandpaper and a knife with me during testing and modified the shape of mine some some. Biggest thing that helped me is the test weighting method I mentioned in the other thread: cut a groove in the belly and moved weights around until I got the action I was after. For the one pictured, I cut a groove from just below the eye to just in front of the swivel hole. Then one from just behind the swivel hole to about 1/2 inch from the tail. I tried shorter weights, cylinder weights, multiple locations, longer weights, etc. I could get it to walk or slow swim with various weight schemes. That sweep swim, without roll, was more difficult. On this bait, longer sections of flat lead (around 1/4 inch across) provided the best action. Sort of provide a keel for the plug in a way. Again, all this info related to the ones I've made. I'm sure someone else could provide some additional info or even correct any mistakes that I've made or suggest better ways to achieve the needed action.
  3. Roll out as you describe it. One interesting thing that I have found is that you don't need flat sides. Can do more of a taper on the sides. Often takes more lead than you would think. I still have plenty to learn on these. The floating ones are what is causing me pain. Too many will roll out on the sweep. Testing, I'll usually use red sharpie for the eyes and black down the back. Helps to see the action better.
  4. That can often help, take a break from a certain build. I'll have ideas pop into my head on a build that I had not thought about in a while or when building a different type of plug something from that build will help you figure out the other plug. Good deal on the 5 inch version! Smaller ones are not easy.
  5. I tend to stay away from flags on gliders as the flag will add some drag. Weighted right and they'll swim/walk just fine. Spent a bunch of time over the last year messing with stickbaits. A lot of similar ideas from gliders (they can do a number of the same retrieves), but some different ones. You can use more lead in the stick than you would in a glider. I had a bunch of trouble with them rolling out when I swept the rod tip to make them swim. Seems that spreading the weight out (as I noted in the above post) helped that out. A stickbait should walk well too. Take a glider and either cut a channel in the belly or drill a bunch of holes close together. Now you have one that you can test any number of weight locations and combos. See what happens when you move the lead into different locations, but keep the same angle on the drop. You can learn a bunch about what makes a glider tick this way.
  6. Yep, check out a post by Rockfish9 one wiring a jointed pikie. Basically, form the tail loop, flatten it, pass it through the plug and swivel and pull out the tail end. Use an awl to reform the tail loop. too much lead and you will kill the action. Probably better off wiring the plug, and then adding the needed weights. Probably give you more of a swim, but might lose that walking action. Yep, and the weight amount/location. Sometimes have to spread the weight out. I.e., use a 1/4 diam slug pounded flat rather than one of the same weight that is 5/16 diameter. FYI, the split the weight into nose and behind belly hook was something that I picked up from a friend here years ago when I first started with gliders. Also learned a bunch from Noel (K4 lures) on gliders.
  7. Thanks Ben! Have a number of penn reels. First time that I've had an issue with one. Sounds like it was user error.
  8. You could just build one glider, then test it with different weight schemes and see which works best. Eliminates other variables this way.
  9. Been slow here lately. Did manage this one this morning on one of my 5 inch gliders.
  10. Appreciate the help. Pulled the spook off last night, gave everything a good clean, regreaced parts, and put it back together. Seems to be working correctly now. Hearing the clicker on the drag now too.
  11. Appreciate the suggestions. I'll open it up later today and check that everything is clean and lined up correctly. Reel is pretty new and only been used a handful of times in freshwater.
  12. I have a Slammer 3, 4500. Seems that sometimes the drag does not want to work. No matter how much I tighten the drag, line pulls off real easy. Other times it works just fine. For example, I had the reel out with me over the weekend. First thing in the morning, could not get any drag no matter how hard I tightened it. Put it back in the truck. Messed with it that evening, and the drag was locked down (from being tightened earlier). I could then back it off and drag would be fine. Any thoughts on what might be causing this? Thanks!
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