Jig Man

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About Jig Man

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  1. There should be some stripers up that way already. There are a few that stay in that section year round, typically smaller ones. Upper teens to twenty pound or more may be on the move now. A good population of gizzard shad in there along with threadfin shad. Skipjack herring will also move in at times. Paddle tails bounced on the bottom are always good. Pearl during the day, chartreuse at night. I typically don't really get started there till june (chasing other species elsewhere). By then, pencils, spooks, poppers and red find are all good choices. Can be good through early September. At that dam I'll often do fine when they are not running water. There is another dam not far from there that is also worth checking out. There the water needs to be moving. Spilling there right now, so not the best conditions. Don't be afraid to try other places on the rocks down from the dam a few hundred yards.
  2. Its one of those personal things. Is it absolutely necessary, no. Does it help, I believe so for most plugs. In a nutshell, hydoing a plug finds the natural ballast of the blank. It has more of a affect on plugs that have little to no belly weight. For a plug, like a popper, with a large belly weight, I doubt it does anything. On some woods, you drop the blank in a bucket, it immediately spins to one side like it has a spring in it. On others, they slowly orient themselves. The former will benefit most from hydroing before completing the build. Here is a quick experiment that you can try. Do up a small batch of plugs and hydro all of the blanks after turning. Build a couple that are set up so that the natural top of the blank (faces up when in the water) is on top of the blank. Just how you would normally build if you were hydroing the plugs. On the others, purposely do them with the natural top to the side or belly of the plug. Simple two-tone paint (i.e., yellow over white). Mark the plugs in a hard to see area. Test swim them without seeing which were set up with the natural top on the back and which were built differently. Note which ones swim better. After you are done, check out which ones were set up with the natural back on the back of the plug. I did that years ago with a swimmer that had no belly weight. Been hydroing ever since. Again, personal preference. I’m not trying to build 1000’s of plugs. Just small batches that swim as best as I can make them. That’s why I hydro all but those plugs with large belly weights. I know plenty of good builders who don’t bother. Figure out what works best for you and go with that. My 2 pennies.
  3. This is the smallie one. No weight in it.
  4. Good info, thanks!
  5. Did up a mold earlier today. Corrugated cardboard for the mold box held together with glue sticks. Ran wire through the front and rear to hold the master in place. Once set up, I'll slit the top down the center like the other one I showed and add a pour spout. Pretty simple.
  6. The few that I have done sort of walk. More like the blade churns up the water as you try to walk it. You can also wake them. Just fast enough to get the blade spinning. I've done well with smaller ones made for snallmouth. Use a Colorado blade on those. Walk it, walk it, mix it up, or even just rip it on top. Smallies crush it. No weight on mind. The blade adds enough weight.
  7. A shot of one of my molds and a partially finished resin plug next to it. All three sections poured at the same time in the same mold.
  8. Have not messed with the featherlite stuff. Have done a bunch with allumalite stuff. Just about all of my molds are one piece. Cut a slice down the center of the mold and cut a pour hole at one end. When it's time to demold, just pull the plug out of the mold. The allumalite resins I believe are more dense than the featherlite? You can add balloons to the allumalite, but it will only get a little less dense than birch.
  9. Nice pikie I found on my jointed ones that they swim better if the joint is tighter. Counter sink the front loop some and use the CCBC method of wiring the front half. Basically, push a bent wire through the front part and spread the loop out once it is through. A little angle on the edges of the joint and cut the hooks rather than split rings. The two sections will also bang together as it swims.
  10. There are some huge stripers in that area. 60 pound plus size. The few times that I have fished below cordell hull the area right at the dam was a zoo. There is a walkway that takes you just below the dam. Real crowded on that walkway at times. Go downstream a couple hundred yards and you can find good areas and few people. Check the generation schedule before you go. You want some moving water. If you have fished the cape cod canal or similar areas, you'll be right at home here or other tailwater areas. I use pretty much the same gear and lures at the tailwaters as I do at the canal. Shallower so less weight on lead, 1 to 2 oz usually keeps it bouncing bottom. Bullet head jig with a paddle tail type trailer in pearl or chartreuse for bouncing. Plugs as I suggested in an above post.
  11. Cumberland river? Runs through Nashville. More familiar with fort Loudoun and Melton hill tailwaters in east tennessee. Typically use my surf gear there. Summertime, pencils, spooks, and poppers. Lead if they won't come up top. Did the same below cordell hull on the cumberland. Bunch of lakes have them too, though most troll with planers and bait on the lakes.
  12. Cool, mold will be here whenever you want it.
  13. The blank do it mold is good for this as eelbasher noted. Another alternative is to get aluminum block and mill or drill or dremel to get what you need. McMaster Carr sells aluminum block, or you might check a local scrap yard. I did up this one for plug weights from aluminum block.
  14. I have the mold if you want to borrow it. Pm your address and I'll send it to you.
  15. same stripers as you have! Done it in the surf and in freshwater. Even pulled a decent striper out of a bluefish pack, at night, on a pencil. Don't believe everything you here on the internet about what works and what doesn't ;-)