Jig Man

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About Jig Man

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  1. Glad to hear that several of you are getting something out of this
  2. After the sealer is fully dry it’s time to add the chin weight. I have a couple of wires set up with a loop on one end and kinked on the other end. One goes into the wire hole in the nose, the other in the tail hole. Basically, these allow me to rig up a pikie with lip, swivels, and hooks quickly and without having to do a tail wrap or waste wire. The weight is inserted into the chin, pikie placed in the water bucket, and the amount of lead adjusted until the pikie sits how I want. In this case, the water line is just over the face of the pikie. Larger plugs are typically pretty consistent as far as the amount of lead needed. On smaller ones the tolerances are tighter so I’ll end up making more adjustments. The test float is one way to insure the plug will swim correctly once finished. I do something similar with spook type plugs: test float with hardware and adjust the lead until they sit right in the water. After a light sanding its primer time. I’ll let them sit overnight, then it will be time to do the paint (my fun for this evening).
  3. Depends on how far below the dam, what dam, and how much water they are running. Usually 1 to 2 oz is what I throw.
  4. Glad you find it interesting. Was hoping some folks would find it interesting. No waders. Definitely on the jigs. I throw a lot of lead down there. A shot of my most productive stuff. Lead and plastic poured by me.
  5. Correct, dense on the bottom, light on the top. Mark the top (light part).
  6. I have had a few folks ask me about the tailwater areas I am fishing. Hopefully this will give you an idea of typical conditions. I believe they were running 22000 cubic feet/sec on this morning. A good over view shot. Similar to fishing the canal and other moving water: fishing the seams, looking for current breaks, etc. Sometimes they are at your feet, other times, too far out to reach. Current can change quickly when they open a gate or close one or when they spill water over the spillway. They were running something like 45000 this weekend, a LOT of water!
  7. Drill the eye holes and some light sanding and the plug is looking like a pikie. All ready for sealing at this point. I seal them and then let them sit for at least 24 hours before the next step.
  8. Now its time for weight and swivel holes. Same deal as earlier, I use a jig to hold the plug. In this case a V-block with a piece of stainless that slides in the lip slot. This keeps everything oriented correctly. Likewise for the fence on the drill press. Weight hole is done using a similar method. I have another jig set up for doing the face cut.
  9. Next I mark the location of the thru-hole using the lip as a guide. Hit it dead center on the tail. A short bit is used on the lathe to start a hole from each end. I’ll connect these afterwards using a long bit in a hand held drill.
  10. Next step is to cut the lip slot. I use a jig (basic V-block) to hold the plug as I cut the slot. The plug is placed in the jig with the mark from above facing out and a fence on the band saw keeps things lined up. Note that in any of the photos I’m posting with machines in them, the machine is turned off and I’m just staging the photo (didn’t want to lose a finger!).
  11. After turning the batch, I cut off the square ends. Next is a quick (several seconds) dip in a bucket of water. Each blank will have a top and a bottom. Tighter grain, coarser grain, heart wood, etc. will cause the blank to be less or dense in certain parts. By floating in water, you can mark the top of the blank. In the lure forum we refer to this as “hydro-orienting” a plug. The idea is that the densest part of the plug will be on the bottom of the plug and serve as a natural ballast. I know some builders do not feel this makes any difference at all. I agree, in some cases. For example, a popper with a large slug of lead in the belly. The lead will most certainly counter act any effect of the wood. I have found that, especially on plugs with no lead, hydro-orienting the plug will create a better swimming plug. Given the 5 seconds that it takes, I feel it is well worth it and all my metal lips are done this way.
  12. Mostly use tbe airbrush, but do use rattle cans from time to time on plugs for me. Rustoleum 2x works well. Flat is better than gloss or semi gloss. The epoxy or clear coat will turn them glossy. Scuff with sandpaper as suggested above if they have sat for a while.
  13. Agree, definitely not an adhesion problem in this case. Epoxy not setting up is the issue. Other advice just provided as it could help you and others. Sorry if I got things off track.
  14. Mix ratio, as suggested above, comes to mind first. On another note, I would not sand with such a fine grit. Too smooth and the primer or paint has nothing to grab on to. 220 is as fine as you should ever have to sand. 180 would also be fine.
  15. Ok, first and second photo are out of order, I fail at internet this evening