M. saxatilis

BST Users
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About M. saxatilis

  • Rank
    1,000 Post Club!


  • What I do for a living:
    Licensed cynic & sceptic
  1. I've seen a movement towards the Partridge Predator hooks for some large striper flies.
  2. PM sent.
  3. FishHawk - a number of suggestions: I always tie a small thread bump on the hook shank just slightly ahead of where I want the barbell eyes to rest. The bump is proportionate to the barbell eye size - small bump = small eyes, big bump = L eyes... The barbell eyes are then laid onto the hook shank directly behind and against the bump, (behind being between the bump and hook bend). The first two or three thread wraps to secure the eyes to the shank are always done with pressure applied forward - that is I pull the thread so it tighten the barbells against the thread bump. I will do two or three in one direction, then switch out and do two or three in the opposite direction (the typical criss-cross wraps). I will do up to 5 consecutive wraps in one direction before switching to the other. Once the barbells are held in place, I just wrap the heck out of them to fill in the barbell gap as I see fit. But, always maintaining an even number of wraps on both sides- criss-crossing. As you know the barbells may twist to one side because of greater thread pressure, when this happens I just wrap the other way, providing finger pressure on the barbells if they do not straighten out with thread wraps. The last and most critical step is the locking thread wraps. Once you do your criss-cross wraps, I then do several helicopter wraps to lock in them in. This means I make my wraps between the barbells and the hook shank - the thread wraps under the barbells, but over the hook shank. If I am using anything but XL eyes I find I seldom need to lay down a base layer of thread first, before putting the barbells on. Although this is a good step when using larger eyes, I find it unnecessary. I no longer use glue on my thread wraps to lock the barbells in place because it takes to long to dry and they never seem to need em. If you're doing all of this and still having difficulty then you need to up your thread size and apply greater tension. Hope this is helpful. PS- I learned this technique from Bob Clouser which may also be found in his book Clouser's Flies.
  4. Many moons ago I worked for the NJDFW I staffed a deer check station on Rt 130 in Bordentown called Sportsman's Center during the opening days of muzzleloader / shotgun season. Every hunter that came through I would ask if I could have the tail and use a pair of pruning shear to cut it as close as possible. After several weekends of this I have enough tail to provide me and my friends a lifetime of bucktail. Still have some to this day. BTW- the information in the archives here on SOL on drying deer tails helped me in my efforts. Good times.
  5. You'd have a hard time tying striper flies using turkey feathers IMO. Most turkey feathers used are sections of the tail and these are used for bodies of nymphs for trout flies mostly. Shown here are 'Frenchies' tied on size 10 jig hook with slotted tungsten beads. A slip of turkey tail feather is tied in at the tip near the rear of the hook and wrapped up towards the hook eye. The length on most turkey tail slips are not going to give you a good body for SW flies. I use a lot of these same turkey tail feathers (ttf) and incorporate individual tail fibers in my composite loops for intruders and with the collar for some of my FW sculpin patterns. Shown here are Frenchies and a brown intruder that uses TTF (olive intruders). I do not have any recent sculpin pics but if you are interested I can pull them up for you. BTW- what kind of turkey feathers do you have? Tails? THat type of info would be helpful for people to know so we may make the best recommendations for you. Cheers, Kevin
  6. I like a modified Hoo-Fly. Although they are not used in each fly, the legs/tentacle materials vary in these flies using combinations of Bird Fur, spey hackles, rhea, ostrich and grizzly hackles to match the mantle color. Hook: Any long-shanked hook (Shown here are TMC 911S in 2/0 Legs:Bird Fur, ostrich, grizzly hackles Mantle: Senyo's lazer dub treated with Liquid Fusion Eyes: 16 mm prism eyes affixed to mono extension
  7. Welcome back to the saddle. If that's a first go then clearly you've not lost much over the past 15. Just think what the next 15 will bring!
  8. Billy, I'm afraid that that amount of information alone is not going to help you much. Rabbit is as common to flies as toppers are to pickup trucks. As a fly tier myself, I can make use rabbit and barbell eyes in any number of ways to make a fly. One of the easiest is as JohnDe mentioned: a strip of black rabbit (called a zonker) attached to the hook, then wound up to the hook eye. The material around the barbell eyes gets a little trickier than just wound forward but you get the idea. Most folks just make up their own patterns and ties in this fashion so if your bud gave it to you then you may be missing out on buying them commercially. Look up a steelhead / rainbow trout pattern called the WIllie Nelson. Aside from the red head and stinger hook location of a Willie Nelson, does this look similar to what you had? I'm guessing the hook you were using was more towards the head of the fly. I don't know of too many strper flies tied with stinger hook set-ups.
  9. It looks to me like you could buy the Crabby Patty bodies in the desired color, and glue them to a hook that has a "backing" tied to it. Although I have seen the bodies advertised with descriptions suggesting the backings are also sold, I've not come up with anywhere that sells them. However, a search of the pattern has shown several pictures of the underside of the fly, with one that is nothing more than the lead eyes and white yarn of a Merkin pattern. If that's it, you could easily find a tutorial for the merkin fly. Another pic I found had a felt patch cut to shape and mottled with a permanent marker. The trial and error part will be in finding an adhesive that works for you. I'm sure a hot glue gun would do nicely. Actually, the more I inspect these ( and other) pics, it looks like it has a felt patch on the top of the fly for many. The eyes are stuck into the soft rubber body. Some pics I've found have different shell tops as if maybe they're made from all sorts of different things. In short, there's no one right way to do it. A piece of felt cut to shape seems legit.
  10. One problem I have had with using zip ties on the bulk nylon hair shown here is that it is much stiffer than most of the synthetics sold in a zip locked hank. Zip ties work well but you'll need to bundle it in smaller hanks. But moreso, double protect yourself and your hard work of zip tying it by placing it in poly bags. By far the best method I have found to store it; long slender poly bags. Static an be an issue, but resolved as described in previous posts. I like the plastic bags because I can tamp it all down (like a hair stacker / packer) after I pull out what I need.
  11. Yes, probably. I would choose my hook carefully though. Fish in any current will cause you grief. Barring any ethical discussion on quick / prolonged "fighting" times, I would be more inclined to select for a 3x strong heavy gauge hook to get the job done. Of note, the Tiemeco 600SP comes to mind; a 3X heavy, 2X short, 3X wide gap hook with a point that will put any bird dog to shame.
  12. Ice dub? Absolutely, although mostly all of my tying these days is for trout (steelhead) and salmon. Ice Dub (ID) goes into so many of my flies particularly since I am tying composite loops. One thing worth mentioning here about ID- there are several different 'compositions' of material when it comes to ID. Of most practical use for striper flies are the colors of ID that are short strands of material and not kinky curled up strands. The former tend to be: Blue Steelie Chocolate Brown Emerald Green Red Copper Silver holographic Pearl (although varied) Even within these I have seen batches that suggest Hareline is playing with the blend (e.g., blue steelie). I have seen a Blue Steelie Ice Dub that has the curly properties as many of the other colors do. In fact, when I saw this on the shelf at two retail outlets in my town (Cabela's and Mossy's Fly shop) I ran out and bought every package I could of the straight blend (including ordering online) for fear it was more than a temporary change. Much to my chagrin, I now own close to 15 bags of blue steelie ice dub. Although this was almost a year ago, I still frequently see the two blends out there. This is helpful to know especially to the tiers that are buying sight unseen as through mail order. Ice dub is a great material to use between Hollow collars. Adds nothing to the weight, does not detract from the movement, and adds shimmer and sparkle/ flash. Love the stuff.
  13. What, no Norvise?
  14. I completely agree with what others have said about hook size - 2/0 is the largest you should go in my opinion. Too many people use an oversized hook. In fly design the hook is commensurate to the size of the fly. You don't need a big teaser that a 4/0 or 5/0 J hook suggests. A 2/0 will hold a big fish just fine. If it doesn't, and your hook straightens out, then it was your fault, not likely the gear. In my experience people that go the route of bigger hooks can only hold bigger fish have not developed the finesse required to land a large fish. Simply put, you're not going to horse the animal in. Think 20+ inch trout hooked on a size 24 midge. Look at a single hook on a Redfin plug, not the treble, but one of the three that make up the treble. Holds fish just fine. True you may stick more than one hook of the treble in the fish but you get my meaning. My recommendation is TMC 811S although the Eagle Claw 254SS is adequate also.
  15. Not useless fly, you at least know you are able to tie hollow collars.