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About Genty

  • Rank
    Senior Member


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Salmon/Saltwater Flyfishing. Fly Tying
  • What I do for a living:
    Insurance Broker

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  • Location
    UK - The Lake District
  1. There certainly is a differential, at least in the Barred Orange legs, that I use for my Avalon Flies. Whilst in Medium size, they both look to be around the same diameter, the Wapsi legs are a much brighter Orange, and whilst I prefer the more subtle Orange, and thus use the Harline Legs, there is a tendency for the black barring to rub off more easily than on the Wapsi version. Don't know whether it applies over on your side of the pond, but here in the UK the Wapsi legs are a good deal cheaper. I have attached photo which hopefully shows the differential, with the Wapsi legs in the foreground, and hope this helps
  2. Thanks guys for your efforts to assist, it is much appreciated.Salty, I have this photo which is the Umpqua version, but it doesn't quite correspond with either Locals. or VT's materials/dressing, although I would think that having taken it from a book, the version that Vt has kindly listed for me is the actual dressing, and the rear section also certainly conforms to Local's description.Having said that, the photo shows the hackles which are splayed in the old key style, rather than Badger, seem to be Cree or something similar, and as the guy who has asked me to tie these has done so, having looked at the Umpqua photo, thanks to your help, I am confident I can come up with a dressing that will be acceptable to him.Thanks once again folks for your help with this.
  3. Hi All, I have been asked to tie up a few of Rick Rouffs Laid Up Tarpon Fly in Tan Livery by a guy over here in the UK, and despite the fact that I have been a regular visitor since 2002 to the Florida Keys, chasing these fish, I have never come across this pattern before. Googling it, brings up several pictures, and I belive the Umpqua Feather Company do three different colour versions, but from the photos the tying and some of the materials that go into its construction are pretty hard to make out. Can any one of you kind folks out there help me out with the material recipe of this pattern and or tying sequence. Any assistance would be most gratefully received. Thanks
  4. I used to carry all my EP/SF blend baitfish type flies and my Rabbit tailed Tarpon Flies in Finsport wallets, but found that it wasn't too long before they caused the bait fish flies to become mishapeand/bent, and also flattened the anti foul loops on my tarpon flies. I tried several alternatives, without much success, then finally stumbled upon a simple and very cheap "FLY BOX" which works for me. A simple sandwich come lunch box of around of around 11 x 8" in lengh suited my needs perfectly for baitfish patterns up to around 6" or a little more, and all of my Tarpon Bunny flies. I attach to them on 200gsm thick card put them in a 6 or 7" ziplock bag, and chuck the whole lot in the cool box on the boat, by which the box is easily to hand should a change of fly be required. OK the initial bagging up of each fly may be a little time consuming, but this whole set up has completely eliminated messed up baitfish flies and anti foul loops for me.
  5. Just in case Richie doesn't see this thread.....He sells eyes on UK for Pike Fly Lure Fish Eyes, these are his eyes, but more importantly, bringing up this page will then give youa link so you can access all the other items he has for sale.
  6. I use these flies a lot out in the shallow Back Country down in the Lower Keys, and they work a treat for a number of fish, so as FliesNPlugs says.....Don't under estimate the floating line. With regard to adding weight to these baitfish creations, yes of course you can add weight to them, and in the larger versions, say anything over about 6" long, sometimes it is advantageous to do exactly that, as this will help no end in actually casting the fly. Furthermore, if you add weight by keeling the hook Add weight along the underside of the shank only, rather than wrapping the full circumference of the hook shank this will ensure that the fly runs true when retrieved. Doublehaul2...As you are new to tying, and thus may not know how to best achieve this keeling...I find the easiest way is to add a strips of flat adhesive backed lead foil along the length of the underside of the hook, stopping far enough short of the eye to leave room for the head of the fly to be finished with tying thread, then placing a slightly shorter length of foil on top of that, and repeating the process with ever decreasing lengths of foil, until you consider you have weighted the fly sufficiently for your needs. You can then secure it by running the thread in touching turns along the full length of the fly, even adding a little dab of super glue if you feel this to be necessary. Having done so, you will then be ready to start the Hi/Lo tie sequence, as the tying thread will be in the correct place, at the rear of the hook.
  7. What a great thread this has turned into, with a whole diversity of brilliant creations, all of which I am sure work very well on their day. It does surprise me however that out of all the tyings and information, I can't find mention of one of the most popular of Albie flies of the not too long distant past, the Albie Wh**e. I suppose that as time passes more effective patterns evolve, and like many flies in all form of our sport, the Albie Wh**e has been shifted to the back burner, and as less and less folk tie it on the end of their line, so less and less fish are taken on it, thus it gets less and less publicity, and gradually, what was once a real killer Albie fly, disappears from the scene. I am as guilty as the next man of this sort of thing, for when I first started making the long trip from the UK over to Montauk, I had a wallet stuffed full of Albie Wh**e in the standard white livery, plus pink and chartreuse bodied variations, and this pattern certainly caught me my fair share of Albies. Like many however, I gradually started tying other patterns, many taken from the words of wisdom, written within this forum, and whilst I still tie one on the end of my line occasionally, unlike Tan Deceivers, Skeeters, and Candies,I haven't bothered to replenish my stock of Albie Wh**e, each year before making the trip over, and suspect that when I finally do run out of them, that will be it.....The way many great patterns eventually go....It's called Progression I suppose.
  8. Hi Double Haul2, Where exactly did you link???....I am Brian G, let me know and, I will certainly help if I can, meanwhile my apologies if you have already seen this post, but not being sure from the above, first off, check out Steve Farrars videos on his MV Baitfish and Peanut Bunker, both show perfect examples of baitfish type fly construction, giving detail of hi, lo and mid ties. While Steve uses mainly SF blend to construct his flies in these two videos, you can use a number of different materials to construct this type of baitfish pattern, although SF blend, and EP Fibres seem to be the most popular. .... Also below is a link to an SBS I did some years ago which explains the hi-tie, lo-tie, mid tie procedures in detail, and how to build a baitfish pattern. This sequence can be utilised with many synthetic materials, but I have found the best of these to be, EP Fibres, and SF Blend, although there are many more synthetics out there that are compatible with this tying method. The less is more scenario is very important with this type of pattern, especially when tying with EP fibres, and I also attach a couple of pictures, which again I have put up before, that show the sparseness you should be looking to achieve to get the best out of baitfish flies tied with EP fibres and Congo Hair, the latter of which is best used for small baitfishing patterns up to about 4". My own maxim with regard to tying these types of baitfish flies, is to tie them very sparse at the rear, then use a little more material towards the shoulder of the fly in order to create a 3d effect and to help maintain the correct profile. I have always gone along the lines that when tying these flies, if I can't see my finger through the materials, when placed behind the rear half of the fly, then it is over dressed Finally there has been mention within this thread of difficulties with trimming these hi-tie baitfish flies, but honestly, as I have said a good number of times before, it really is very easy, and if you go along with the method I advocate in that SBS put up back in 2008, you can easily trim EP/Congo/SF Blend and any number of other materials to your desired profile in less than 1 minute, provided you make sure that you use a pair of long bladed scissors, to make the initial cuts.....Hairspray to really stiffen the fibres up initially plus a pair of scissors with at least a 5" cutting blade, will make trimming a pretty simple task, no matter what the size of the fly is that you are tying....When completed you can then either wash the hairspray out, under a running tap, or as I do in order to maintain the profile of the fly whilst in transit in a fly wallet or the like, leave it until I am actually about to fish, and then wash the residue hairspray out in the water. A Little 4" Pinfish Imitation tied with EP Fibres that has been given the above trimming "Treatment" Note the Sparseness towards the rear end. A 7" Miushmouth tied with SF Blend and trimmed by the same method.
  9. I'll be doing the 6500+ mile round trip from the UK as usual.....Flying out this year on the 2nd of October, and sticking to the same old routine.....Stopping at the Harborside Motel (Room 8) eatin' and a drinkin' at the Westlake most nites, and fishing from Tommy Cornicelli's boat for 6 days from the 3rd.....Bringing the same flies as per my post on page 10 of this thread, as these held up for me really well on my 2012 trip.....Hope to see some of you guys, either out on the water, or in the Westlake. Mike, are you keeping the beach fishing going as far as the Brits are concerned this year?
  10. Hi Rachel Marie....Sorry, but you haven't really answered the question.....What makes the surf candy so special?....My experiences of gunnin' and running for Albies off of Montauk would put the Surf Candy way down the list of go to flies...Admittedly, I only invade your shorelines for a few days every October, but I have found off of Montauk, that whilst you often need to "Match the Hatch" as accurately as possible when it comes to Albies, in these "Gunnin' & Running" situations, you also need to fish a fly almost in, but not quite on the the surface, and due to the epoxy or UV acrylic body of the surf candy, this style of fly sinks below what is the ultimate taking zone, no matter that you might retrieve at warp speed, which seems the norm, but is not in anyway necessarily, the optimum retrieve speed require to induce a take from these little Tudoids. The same applies to surf candies allied to bass blitzes, where due to the weight of the fly, ii is IMHO, not the fly to use in such circumstances, as it sinks way too quickly...I have found it far better in both sets of circumstances to use a little Tan & White Deceiver, tied on either a size 4 or 2 hook, and in the case of Albies, vary the retrieve rate, rather than be a total slave to the warp speed retrieve, while in the Bass blitzes, a cast and No retrieve whatsoever, almost always produces a tight line, and a Striper hooked. Of course I am only talking of my own, very limited experience, where i have fished for 6 days every October for the past 10 years off of Montauk, which totals only 60 days, and your own experiences, allied to location, fishing conditions etc., might be entirely different, thus the surf candy may well reign supreme, but as far as the fall run off of Montauk is concerned, in my own experience, and that of various boat partners, the little tan deceiver below, easily has the edge over the surf candy in all top water fishing situations.
  11. Sorry Oats...... Was not in anyway trying to put down your creation, which looks great, rather was attempting to perhaps avoid the necessity of you answering a request for an instructional SBS video......Also, don't be put off by my personal experiences of fishing this type of pattern, as I don't bother to fish the salty stuff over here, so my "real time" exploits with this pattern, have thus far been restricted to a maximum of 3 x 6 days fishing out of Montauk, and I have also tried using a similar pattern on the odd occasion, down in the Florida Keys, where I come over to fish for the Tarpon during the first two weeks of May every year. As I say, you guys will have many more opportunities to try this style of fly out than I do/have done, so it may well be you will find situations where this type of pattern will work a treat. All I am saying is, rather than be drawn into making up a couple of dozen examples, just like I was, when I first saw Chris Newsome's post in early 2010, hold back, and just make up a couple, and see how they work for you. After all, the pattern itself takes some considerable time to tie, and the amount of UV Acrylic utilised, allied to the overall cost of the stuff, dictates that you would be wise to initially err on the side of restraint ....And this comes from someone who completely ignored what he has just preached.....Geez, hindsight is, or would be, a wonderful thing, if only it did not come to fruition until after the event.....Or in my case, after I had tied up couple of dozen or so of these creations.
  12. This style of fly was first put up on this forum by Chris Newsome back in 2010, and whilst oat's nice little spearing has I suspect been tied differently, Chris's put up a SBS of the method he used. Utilising Chris's method, it is reasonably easy to obtain an accurate and uniform fish shape for any number of flies you wish to tie. The really difficult part I found, was to finish the flies off to replicate the perfectly clear versions shown in the SBS photos. I found it reasonably easy after one or two practise attempts, to get the uniformity in the overall profile, but I had one hell of a job attempting to get a crystal clear body, without any little air bubbles spoiling the look of the fly. I don't suppose that matters too much, however, great while these patterns may look, personally I find the bay anchovy versions I tied up, virtually useless when cast into the many blitzes out from Montauk during the October run, when in truth, "every ones a coconut" if you cast a little tan deceiver, skeeter, or the like into the blitzes....provided that is, you don't retrieve or move it in any way......This maybe due to the fact that being made almost entirely of UV acrylic, the fly is too heavy, and sinks through the melee too quickly, but whilst I have also tried it several times fishing on the outside of the main blitz activities, other than the odd Bluefish, and just an very,very occasional Striper, it has never been a great fish taker for me, even though I have given it plenty of opportunities to prove its worth over the past three years on my annual visits to Montauk. To be perfectly fair though, fishing in the sea around the coastal areas over on my side of the pond, is hardly worthwhile, so my experience is in context, fairly limited, compared with the timescale for experiment for the majority of you guys.. This singular lack of success may of course just be down to me, and it may well work great for others, so for anyone who wants to give this style of fly a try, here is the link to Chris's original SBS, . However, with the cost of the UV acrylic, allied to the amount required for each fly, I would suggest you tie up just a couple, and see how the work for you, before going into "mass production" mode. I also have a template file available similar to that in step 3 of the sbs, but as I don't know where I obtained the original file from, I don't wish to possibly contravene forum rules, therefore if anyone wants a copy, which will then allow you to print straight to transparency film, please pm me with your email address
  13. Sorry Duplicated
  14. Over on this side of the pond, Dogfish is sold in many of our fried fish and chip shops under the name of Rock Salmon or more commonly Rock Eel, and very tasty it is too;)
  15. Hi John De.....I first mentioned the hairspray method of trimming EP or other synthetic fibres some 5 or more years ago, and whist initially the spraying of the finished fly makes the material stiff in order to be able to cut it easily to shape, I thought I explained that it was never the intention to leave the fly as it was after trimming. Rather you can either wash the hairspray out after you have trimmed the fly, or alternatively, you can leave it until you actually arrive at a real time fishing situation for that particular fly. I personally keep these type of baitfish patterns in Finsport type wallets for transportation purposes, so tend to leave them stiffened by the hairspray,, as that helps tremendously to keep their overall profile, whilst transported in these polythene bag type wallets. Once I am fishing, before I actually cast the fly, I wash it out thoroughly in the water to remove both the hairspray residue and any air bubbles, when it then assumes the consistency of a fly trimmed without stiffening by means of hairspray. I agree entirely that the longer the scissor blade, the easier it is to cut this type of fly to shape, but having watched Enricos videos countless times, I can absolutely assure you that, by giving it the hairspray treatment first off, two or three cuts on both top and bottom of fly, will shape it perfectly (given just a little practice) in less than a minute, then if you want, a quick rinse under a cold tap will bring the fly back to exactly the same consistency as if the materials had never been sprayed in the first place.