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About keeler

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  1. Float a plastic bottle like an old bleach bottle in the 'pond' for a month and see wat happens. I would also suggest asking other boaters in the area for their thoughts. Slime is one thing but barnacles are a bear to get off and the gel coat may never look the same.
  2. Call the DMV. Every state(that mandates titles) has a process to replace a lost title as long as you are the title holder.
  3. The oil will not siphon out of the secondary oil tank since the level of the oil is a lot lower than the main tank on the motor. Oil will spill out of the main tank if the cap is loose, the tank is full and the motor is tilted up. The fact that the cap seemed to pop out leads me to think that the secondary tank oil pump was running and overfilling the tank. For that to happen a lot has to go wrong. On the other hand, if the manual oil fill override switch is stuck in the on position the tank will overflow but even for that to occur, the motor has to be powered and that is not likely. So let's go with the simple reason, the cap was lose and oil spilled out. Even with the cap on, oil often spills out of these motors because the cap does not seal well. If the tank overfills in general, more overflow will occur. This can happen when the sensor in the main tank (on the motor) doesn't sense that the tank is full and the pump on the secondary tank keeps filling the main tank. When the motor is running, oil is getting pumper ANF used so the overflow issue is somewhat muted. Once the motor stops running but the ignition is on, the tank will overflow. The oil pools in the bottom of the cowling and than drains when the motor is lowered. Good luck
  4. In general the Lowrance manuals are poor BUT they are much better than nothing at all. If you don't have the manual you can download it from the Lowrance web site. And yes, Lat/log formats are options as are other data such as knots/mph, mph/kph etc.
  5. I have the 83/200 ducer and never use the 83hz mode. I also fish J-bay and near shore Rockaway. The funny thing is that I use my HDS-5 for the sonar and as a GPS backup to my older Garmin 492. I think that the user interface on the 492 is better than the HDS. Some things on the HDS are not intuitive and the manual is almost useless. That said, the sonar is far better than what I had before.
  6. Myth #2: E10 attracts water, so it's important to install a water separator to prevent the water reaching the engine. I don't want to go through all your comments but with respect to the one quoted above, water that is absorbed by E10 fuel will pass right through a water separator and burn in the motor. Also, if you get water in your veny, it doesn't mater if you run ethanol or non-ethanol. The E10 will actually handle the water better up to a point
  7. I think I take very good care of my boat and motor. I do regular maintenance , repairs and upgrades as needed. I keep exact logs of all service, gas,oil and treatments added. I also think there are a lot of companies out there that want you to believe that you have to use their product. I research users feedback, product claims etc and decide from there. For my boat I have an 82 gallon poly tank. A typical day out for me burns 15 to 30 gallons of fuel. I never go out with less than 30 gallons in the tank and I rarely fill it either. If I am not going to use that much fuel, why carry the weight. It affects mileage and performance in my boat. An extra 40 gallons of fuel is like two extra passengers ( OK two light weights:)) So in general, I am adding fresh fuel every other trip, 20 to 30 gallons at a time ( Fuel dock is close to boat's marina). Every spring after the boat has sat for the winter, I start it up and run until warm. In addition to all the spring maintenance and checks, I replace plugs and filters AFTER the initial warm up. I drain the fuel water separator into a glass jar and let it sit to see if there are contaminants or water. So far there have been none. I lay out old plugs in order and inspect each for signs of issues. After all that, I replace the filters and plugs, grease all the motor fittings and linkage. There are a lot more step in getting ready for the season, these were just some of the fuel related ones.. My motor is approx 11 years old; a can't kill em SX150.
  8. If during the boating season, you add gas regularly, it is a waste of money in my opinion to add Stabil( the red stuff). All fuel non ethanol and ethanol degrade somewhat over time but both do so about the same. As mentioned, the key is to get fresh fuel regularly. As for Ezorb; I really don't know. I don't use any treatments ( except for RingFree which is not a stabilizer). I onlt add stabil for the winter and so far so good.
  9. Folks will argue this topic to their graves. I have done both as well as tank half full and have not had any issues at all. I do stabilize the fuel. The issue with condensation is often overblown. The amount of condensation depends on a lot of factors, the two most important being the temperature difference between the fuel, fuel tank and the ambient air. The second important factor is the relative humidity of the air. If there is no temperature difference, there can not be any condensation. If the air is relatively dry, condensation amounts will be less than with moist air. A third factor is the ability of the tank to exchange internal air with outside air. For modern day autos, the fuel system is effectively sealed to the atmosphere. For marine applications, the tank is 'vented'. The smaller the vent area and the less resistance to air flow, the less air that will be either expelled or sucked in. Areas that have extremes in temperature AND high ambient humidity levels, like Florida, are more likely to experience more condensation than area like New England, where the winter air is usually quite dry. Boats that have foamed in tanks are less prone to temperature swings in the tank due to the insulating properties of the foam.( insulating them from larger temperature swings). Boats that have darker covers are more prone since the sun will heat up the air under the cover more than if uncovered or a light/white cover. Now for the ethanol conspiracy supporters: Condensation will occur the same regardless of whether the tank has E10 or non E10 fuel. Since E10 can absorbe about 1/2% water by volume, you are actually better protected from condensation with E10 ( think Dry Gas in the old days). Just about every case of excessive water in the tank that I have seen was the result of water intrusion(leaks) and not condensation.
  10. Read the thread and when you understand it, you can explain it to me:)
  11. Often, that switch gets gummed up inside. It can be taken apart and cleaned. If your issue was that it worked sometimes, not always, or it worked in one direction only, it may just be dirty inside.
  12. In my neck of the woods, chan 68 is the chat channel. It is important to note that you should and are obligated to monitor chan 16 for emergency and other important messages. Most VHF radios have a feature called Dual Scan which allows it to monitor two channels. Set up the radio to monitor 16 in addition to your selected primary channel ( 68 in my case). Now when you transmit, you will go out on your primary ( 68 for me) and when receiving you will hear both 68 and 16. Monitoring 16 may save someone's life.
  13. I had a buddy who was taking the course for the 'knowledge' . When he found out he could be held liable on ANY vessel regradless of who owned or was operating it, he decided to stop taking the course.
  14. I also leave my batteries in, charged and disconnected. No charging during the winter and they start the motor every spring ( well at least so far, 5 years)
  15. I do not remove my compass or VHF radio. The compass is 10 years old and has survived NY winters. I do remove my sonar and GPS but to be honest, I remove them after every trip ( bracket mounted) I would be a lot more concerned about theft than the temps.