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About GSB706z

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    Senior Member


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    fly fishing, surf casting, kayak fishing, and hunting

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  1. CWitek said: First, what examples can you cite that the fisheries management system is "corrupt." I'm not talking about the system leading to an outcome that you don't like, and an assumption that someone was paid off, but an example where some act of corruption--a payoff, some sort of clear quid pro quo between an interested party and a manager, or any similar action--has been documented. In all the years that I've been involved with the process, I don't think that I can recall any, although there are some allegations of mishandled funds in the Western Pacific Fishery Management Council that came up a year or two ago...Instead, what we see in the management arena is nothing more than good, grassroots politics...They like to complain, but they don't like to invest the time and resources needed to move the system... And I learned, through bitter experience, that anglers in the northeast and in the mid-Atlantic aren't willing to do it... It's not a matter of corruption; it's just a matter of getting your own people on the management boards, the regional fishery management councils, etc. The commercials and for-hires are willing to make that happen. Anglers aren't. In the end, it's no different than getting on a school board, convincing your county legislature to repave a road or build a kid's playground, etc. Same sort of politics are involved. But if you don't put in the work, it's not going to happen. In politics, if there is a grassroots movement that would be against the scientific data, highly detrimental to the greater good of constituents, the resource long term, etc., AND the officials went with the grassroots movement - I call that corruption. No need to try and semantically pick out the term corrupt to the worst connotation of it. Corruption also means for personal gain, which doesn't need to be monetary, but could just be for political voter support. CWitek also said: My other comment is, even assuming that the system is corrupt, it's the system that we have. So complaining about the system gets us nowhere. You have to understand how to make the corruption work in your favor--and if we were really dealing with corruption, that would be a relatively easy thing to do. But anglers aren't willing to make the needed investments of time and resourdes to get that done, either. Look, we agree. I said "I get it..." multiple times and went on explaining that I was in agreement with your idea of how to currently best work within the system. Respectfully, you are not the only one allowed to interpret the problem or talk about it, as your context strongly infers that anyone doing so, other than yourself, is just complaining.
  2. Yes, agree it is fun to find new ways. A very clean, very simple way is to make a blood knot, and use enough for a longer tag end. You’ll tie the teaser to the tag end. The tag end will be perfectly perpendicular (90 degrees) to the leader and will stay perpendicular at the knot. A blood knot is designed to connect two lines of very similar diameter, so you would take two pieces of leader. Say you’re using say 30 or 40 lb leader, you want to make the knot using 3 turns on each side.
  3. Quoting CWitek, “Federal fishery management plans usuall lump the recreational fishing and charter fishing sectors together, but when they don't, they show the risk of this approach, which is governing the charter fishing sector with a set of regulations separate from those of the recreational sector, which can give the charter sector privileges not enjoyed by the public as a whole.” Your context is based on working within the corrupt political system. I get that. My argument is based off logic rather than working within the confines of the already corrupt system. I get that the best avenue in this current political system for sustainability of the species may be just to make it clear that a dead bass is a dead bass, make sure it is represented, and show that there is actual over harvest given the current conditions, regardless of what sectors exist. I get that. Making corrupt, poor management decisions to grant privileges to the charter sector is a separate problem in addition to not classifying sectors correctly, IMHO. Regardless of your research, which I appreciate, the shore-based anglers are significant enough to have separate data collected on and represented, IMHO. As always, I appreciate and enjoy reading your input on striped bass.
  4. I can’t be the only one that views this the following way I’m about to explain, right? The definitions/classifications of Commercial and Recreational, especially now that we’re in 2023, are flawed, IMHO. To me, it makes more sense to classify it into more sectors, rather than just two using their definitions of Commercial VS Recreational sectors. Consider that guides that harvest, charters, and party boats fish for significant amounts of income, but yet they’re still defined as recreational because they’re recreating as they’re harvesting (and/or causing some release mortality). The vast majority are trying to obtain more than their break even cost from the recreational aspect, obtaining a profit if they can. To my logic, that’s a form of commercial AND shouldn’t be guised under recreational. On the other hand, there are a significant amount of shore-based anglers in 2023, like a lot of the readers/posters of this forum, some that catch and release (which includes release mortality) and some that harvest. Regardless of where land based kill numbers fall, there should be a separate shore-based sector, IMHO - as they’re such a large category. Lastly, I don’t recall this data as a new theme. In other words, haven’t previous reports over the years mostly stated that recreational harvest (using their definition including headboat etc.) was always a very significant in the mortality of striped bass?
  5. I bought two SRF90MM2. I built one last year for a friend. Before building them, when tested from a static position (carefully bending on carpet), one was somewhat stiffer than the other. And, I marked spine with a China marker first and tried different positions, anyway. However, measurements of the tip top section, butt section, length, and action were the same, so I do NOT think one is an MF (sent by accident). Without test casting, mine seemed like the range would start and end approximately 1/4 to 1/3ish oz. heavier. I’m actually fine with that and actually prefer that range, so not an issue to me but was something worth noting. Despite those differences, I would buy again and think this is my preferred 2 piece 9’ blank at any price and it is reasonably priced. He fished his last year and it was nice casting, especially for a two piece 9 footer. Many 2 piece nine footers are generally underwhelming compared to 9 foot one piece, IMHO. I’m almost finished with mine and hope to have it done within the next couple weeks. In the past I’ve personally preferred Lami one piece blanks, but have since converted to 2 piece rods for convenience and I happen to like some of the RodGeek actions, particularly the 9’ mm, 10’6” mm (both have some glass as noted above), and the 11 foot models. I’ve held the 10’ model and it seemed like a much faster rod than any in the series. Good luck.
  6. Just to clarify, with the rotor riding onto that little red o-ring (also seen near orange arrow) within the rotor recess, there is technically indirect sealing around the pinion, but it’s perhaps something to keep an eye on considering it’s small size/small surface area and composition. It might be worth replacing every so often and using the proper grease for hydrophobic type purposes and to slow wear down.
  7. I have these pictures in the wrong order, but you can see how in the picture with the orange arrow, the brass colored pinion is directly up against the silver colored metal without a seal directly in between. Rather, they nestle a small red o-ring underneath the rotor in a recess and the rotor spins on that red o-ring up against a portion just outside of pinion. In a reel like a VS, there would be a large “main seal” directly up against pinion/sleeve guide. Because the reel does not have automotive grade seals AND because the pinion seal is small/indirect, I personally would avoid getting it wet when reasonably possible. Please do not take that to mean that I think it is not a good reel! It’s a very nice reel. The nice thing is it is designed to ward off splashing AND it’s easy to quickly take off the side plate for quick greasing or the reel is still simple enough for a total breakdown. Also, parts are usually readily available from a place that starts with an M in NJ or directly from Penn. And parts are typically carried for years. Also, they have a helpful forum here known for good customer service. As mentioned above by Mainly, his was submerged without noticeable issues. But, again, keep in mind grease and rinsing could be helping to mitigate his and salt, and that little red o-ring near the pinion is holding up for now. It’s a very nice reel, but I just want to help anyone reading to not get confused into thinking it’s ready for hardcore without fairly frequent maintenance. And obviously not everyone needs hardcore sealing. Enjoy the reel!
  8. Mark J: Did you look at the schematic? Many rotors have holes in them. Know the following: - The rotor does NOT go into the body of the reel. Having a hole there is inconsequential. - In order to keep water out of the body of a sealed spinning reel, the top of the reel needs to have a seal around the pinion AND around the main shaft. Then there are seals around the side plate(s) and handle. Having a hole on the rotor doesn’t matter at all. -While we’re at it, you should also know that the word “sealed” has limitations. Just realize that this reel does not have automotive grade seals, so understand that you should avoid submersion as much as possible. Enjoy your new reel!
  9. Nice, GED. When you convert your son’s, you will be impressed. One recommendation would be to try different combinations of the plastic washers due to variations in tolerances with the VS titanium line roller and the VR line roller arm. The perfect combination for my individual reel was just the clear washer (no white washer). Using this combination on my particular reel, the line roller goes on tight, but spins extremely freely and with very tight tolerances.
  10. HUGE thanks to LB for his kindness, ingenuity, and craftsmanship! LB gave me permission to share his neat modification, and I think some may enjoy reading about it. I’ve always loved plugging with manual pick up reels and have enjoyed 706Z, VS, VSX, ZeeBaaS, and a few others. I recently purchased a new Gen 2 VR 175. I owned a Gen 1 in past and I enjoyed the light weight. My purpose with this reel is to take advantage of the light weight (19.2 oz.), but also have a larger spool for distance in a few spots I have in mind. In switching this reel to bail-less, the bearing was sticking. The issue ended up being that the tolerances of the bail post in which the line roller bearing sits are out of specs (meaning it is too thick towards the end), which caused the bearing to come apart leaving only the inner ring of the bearing (see pic w/orange arrow). At this point I thought about asking VS for a new VR line roller bearing (FYI: they are 5mm X 8mm X 2.5mm, for when you need to replace), but then remembered a neat post about LB helping Recoil replace his like roller with a titanium VS roller. I reached out to LB, and before I knew it, he was on his lathe machining a custom aluminum shoulder washer and several plastic washers. Although not my occupation, I have some training on a vertical mill and precision measuring, and I have a great appreciation for machining. LB’s work was very nice! LB even included a neat little had drawn sketch referring to the orientation he wanted the washers installed, as well as the perfect amount of additional counter weight needed (the original inner counterweight is designed to balance the bail and needs to be removed). Let me tell you, the VS titanium line roller fits awesome and purrs like a kitten. It fits much more precisely than the included original. Also, the line lay is spot on, as the diameter upon which the line rolls is the same. All I need to do is shim the handle and finish my custom rod, and this set-up will be ready for the spring. Thanks, LB! You’re the man!
  11. I can do that - thanks!
  12. I think it is not an “old school”, but I believe it is post 2005. I should verify the tip size, but can’t do so at the moment. I can probably measure in the next several hours.
  13. I have new, in wrapper with tags, green SSU1201M and SSU1081M blanks (one of each). Two of my personal favorite blanks of all time. Also have a GSB1321M blank. I don’t use a rack on my current vehicle, and I have begrudgingly switched to two piece rods. I’ll consider a reasonable offer and I live near Allentown, PA.
  14. Duplicate posted - deleted
  15. Typically, the line will go directly across the roller and not rub. (Yellow lines as seen in this pic). However, if you have a fish on with drag going out with this new VS, AND the spool is at or near the bottom of its cycle, the line will periodically reach points at the bottom of spool (see pink line) where it will rub the rotor with these reels. The design flaw is that the rotor was not designed with enough clearance for situations where the line is in the pink position in photo. Hope this helps explain what people are referring to as line rubbing the rotor.