JBreese1

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About JBreese1

  • Rank
    1,000 Post Club!
  • Birthday 06/20/1961

Converted

  • About Me:
    54 year old, married, 3 children.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    fishing,shooting, firearm restorations
  • What I do for a living:
    defense contractor. fabricator, assembler. Some commercial sign and billboard work on the side.

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Port Monmouth NJ
  1. As per the rules, Last bump. Then I'll let it die. Jim
  2. First bump. This is brand new ammo just delivered. He ordered this on his phone thinking it was .357 Magnum. I am willing to meet up in Monmouth, northern ocean or southern middlesex Co's. Jim
  3. A friend and co-worker has 200 Rds. of Hornady XTP .357 Sig he has no need for. These are the 147 gr. XTP This is brand new fresh ammo in boxes. He is asking $110.00 He tells me this about half price, I don't know. I will be handling the entire sale, so you will be dealing with me only. This is for pick-up in Monmouth or Ocean Co. only. Reply here if interested. Jim
  4. Hard to believe it's been a year already. I still miss having the ability to just pick up the phone when I need to hear a friends voice. I hope you are catching cows up there and the bluefish are all toothless. Jim
  5. I pass one right on RT. 35 in Middletown NJ every morning going to work. I am rolling by around 6:10 A.M. and the place is a packed sh*t show. The local police have to keep an officer in the lot to prevent the fights from people trying to line jump. I can always tell who on the road with me is heading there. They drive like the biggest as*holes, speeding and weaving to get their fix. The vans from the various rehabs also drive like dicks. I saw one pull out onto the highway right in front of a NJ Transit bus who then swerved into my lane almost taking me out to avoid crushing the van. I fortunately saw it coming and jammed on my brakes giving the bus the room he needed. Jim
  6. Dale, Try to ignore the d*ckheads. Heavy and hollow is the way to go. Just remember, When you are getting hit with bullets , the last thought on your mind is OH, IT'S ONLY A .22 MAG.!! I understand about carrying only what you are willing to loose. I had a little .32 Beretta tom cat that accidental flew off my dashboard while on a high bridge right into the water after I had to knock off work early one day due to unforeseen circumstances. Jim
  7. sorry, The order of the pic's seem to have been scrambled. Also forgot to mention that cleaning rods and the built in storage was eliminated completely on the last ditch type 99's. Jim
  8. O.K. Dutch, I took a few pic's of the main differences between the early war and last ditch rifles. The first and foremost is the omitting of the chrome lined barrel. This cant be readily seen, but was important since the rifles were meant to be used in highly corrosive environments [think jungles]. The most obvious change can be seen in the butt plate. The last ditch has an crudely constructed wood plate nailed in place on the stock. Next is the machined bolt assembly. They went from a cast then machined bolt with the large plum shaped knob to a crude, welded assembly with a cylindrical piece of steel welded to the bolt. The rear sight was changed from an distance adjustable ladder arrangement with fold out wings for leading aircraft to a simple fixed peep sight set at 300 meters. The front site was cheapened by removing the protective ears that protect the sight blade from damage or being moved out of adjustment inadvertently. The barrel bands went from cast, machined units to rolled and welded flat steel. Finally, the top hand guards were eliminated to save additional fitting work. Even after all these cost and material saving changes the Type 99 last ditch rifles were safe to use. Every Type 99 from the first to the last underwent the same proof tests and was built to fire many, many rounds. I have added the pic's below to illustrate these changes. Jim
  9. Mako, Here are some pic's of an Lee Enfield Jungle carbine clone I built from 7 different part sources. You can see the different colors of the wood pieces and the different finishes on the steel parts. On this build the reciever is from one rifle, the barrel from another, the bolt assembly, trigger assembly and magazine are all from other sources. I had to assemble and headspace the barrel to ensure it would be safe to fire. I still wyley coyote'd it for it's first shot. I clamped it down to the shooting bench and pulled the trigger with an lanyard. I was very pleased that it worked fine. I get a lot of pleasure doing this type of work and have a nice piece of history when I am done. Jim
  10. KML, Nope, bayonet lug is allowable on an bolt action rifle, NOT ON AN SEMI-AUTO. These are all C & R eligible anyway. Jim
  11. Mako, Thanks for the kind words. The gun vice is made by MTM. If you google MTM gun vice it will come up. I am very happy with it. I use it to build AR's and do all my restoration work. It also can be bolted down to a bench to make it more secure. As far as the restorations, most involve a little bit of everything. Most require some minor gunsmithing and furniture re-finishing. I have the most fun hunting down the rifles at a cheap price [mostly sporterized or incomplete] Then tracking down the original parts to restore them to as issued condition. The Arisaka's present their own special challenges. All military rifle stocks from various countries are easy to refinish and come out looking great except the Japanese rifle stocks. The Japanese T 99 was finished with a singular finish "urushi", which can't be duplicated by modern finishes. It is not readily available in the US and is is a derivative of poison oak sap and causes a virulent reaction similar to poison Ivy in most people. I use a modern spray lacquer over a dye. The dyes can easily be mixed to produce a very authentic looking finish. Dyes penetrate the open fissures of the surface and don't lay on the surface like stains. As for the lacquer, it can be sprayed on and then burnished down to a dull finish, very similar to urushi. I try to do as little sanding as possible. The big challenge in making an Arisaka stock look original is in preserving the sharp edges of the finger grooves, the little C shaped area behind the rear barrel band, etc. It's pretty easy to tell if a stock has been refinished when one sees these areas sanded into roundness. Sharpening these areas can be done with a Dremmel tool if you have the patience. Another area to avoid is the proof marks on the stock. You need know where these are and avoid sanding them away, thinking they are just another ding in the wood. I have all 3 variants of the type 99. (Early war, mid war and last ditch). I plan on restoring the mid war next, but will leave the last ditch alone. Jim
  12. The only part still missing is the original type 99 dust cover. I am still looking for one at an reasonable price. Jim
  13. after
  14. I finally completed my most recent restoration this evening. I picked up an early war type 99 Arisaka WWII battle rifle at a good price. It was pretty beat up and missing a few parts. The early war models were the highest quality compared to the mid war and last ditch models which were manufactured when Japan was on the ropes after we destroyed their manufacturing capabilities. The early war models had an chrome lined barrel, machined bolt assemblies, anti-aircraft rear sights and an built in mono-pod. Many of these features were dropped mid war and eliminated completely on the last ditch models. Here are some before and after pic's. Before
  15. WOW Fishinchip. What an amazing group of randon. Thanks Jim