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FishMeister

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Obviously fishing, N.Y. Yankees, UConn, N.Y. Giants
  • What I do for a living:
    Finance

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  1. Hi All, I have a 17' Sea Nymph aluminum Center Console with 25 HP Etec that I just picked up recently. I am debating getting a new trailer for it. There is no paperwork for the current trailer and tags are all scratched/faded off of the trailer. The boat itself weighs 750 lbs plus motor/small fuel tank/gear brings it to about 1000/1050 lbs. Any recommendations? I'm in western long island sound area of CT if any dealer recommendations either. Thank you!
  2. Thanks, with oil rates all over the board the last couple years, I'd like to have the option of cutting that out if electric rates stay ok enough. Can keep switching between whatever heating method is cheaper...
  3. Hi, I currently have an oil boiler with an oil hot water tank system. This is all close to the oil tank in the basement. I recently had an issue where the motor and oil pump went out on the hot water heater and had to be replaced. I was considering adding an electric hot water heater to the system in addition to the current oil burner. I would have it all on valves so that water would only flow into the electric hot water heater if there was an issue with the oil burning one. I have a friend who is taking out a perfectly good three year old Rheem electric water heater that I was thinking of using for it. (They're changing their system, water heater is fine). Since it is electric, is there any sort of minimum I should keep from the oil tank and the current boiler/oil burning hot water heater?
  4. Pacific Energy Alderlea T4 would be a good fit for what you're looking for. It's a steel box that's wrapped in cast iron and no cat in it, just an easily removable baffle up top. Nice large glass viewing area and also has a nice pull-out cook-top if you ever wanted to use that. I got the larger T6 installed last fall and its been great so far.
  5. It works well for that. Don't expect to be digging out big stumps or anything like that but for moving brush and some logs around, it does well. Really handy for cutting rounds for firewood with the thumb holding the log off the ground too.
  6. My cousin picked up a Kioti CK35 about a year ago and have had some seat time on it. Nice machine overall. Compared to an older Kubota of similar HP that I used to use, it seems to be a stronger machine lifting logs that I didn't think it would. Has a grapple for it that works ok, but forks on the front work just as well. If you get a backhoe for it, get it with a thumb even if it's a mechanical one.
  7. I have the same hydro system/two air handler system and this was the exact issue I had. If I turned on either of the two zones on the main floor, it would not trigger the boiler/pump to kick on. I could 'trick it' by turning on one of the zones upstairs to get the boiler/pump to run and then have heat on the main floor as well. Had the zone valve switched out and all works well again. This is on a newer 3ish year old system as well. The guy that switched the zone valve out said Honeywell only has a one year warranty on them now so wouldn't be surprised if this is a failure point again.
  8. Not sure how many you have, but if you have any others I would take some as well, thank you.
  9. Take a look at the Tarpon 100 too. 10' long, 325 pound capacity. I'm right around your size and it does well for me. Might need to use scupper plugs but that's about it really. Not the fastest around, but then again none of the kayaks you're looking at are going to be. That just comes with the territory of being a bigger guy in a short and wide kayak. The new tarpons also come with the trax system that lets you mount rod holders, fish finder, camera, whatever anywhere along the track in seconds. Might come in handy if you need to take all that stuff off for transport in the back of a car. The newer seats are also awesome
  10. I have never used a F&S kayak but do use a Tarpon. I did look hard at the Eagle Talon kayak before I bought my Tarpon though. They certainly looked like a good entry level kayak to me, and if I didn't get my Tarpon on such a sale I might have bought the F&S. For me, there were some distinct benefits to the Tarpon. The fit and finish on the Tarpon seemed to be of higher quality, the track system that was already installed and integrated meant less holes drilled if any, the hatches were easier to use on the water, the seat was much better, and by getting it on such a sale the resale on it would be real close to what I paid for it. With that being said, those extra benefits were worth the couple hundred dollar difference at the time to me, but they may not be worth it to someone else who is on a tighter budget. For them, the Eagle Talon kayak may fit the bill perfect and I think that's great! It gets them into the sport with a kayak that they can catch plenty of fish off of no matter the fit and finish of the hull, the tracking, the seat, the hull slap, the thickness of the hull, or whatever negative you may find in it, and they can grow their kayak fishing equipment from this solid starting point. Although like was said earlier in the thread a good used kayak can probably be had for around $600, an Eagle Talon can be had on sale at times for $300 - literally half price! For someone looking for an entry level kayak this is a large difference. If it took someone a few months to save up for a $300 Eagle Talon kayak why wait literally twice as long to get double the money saved up for a $600 kayak? If it gets someone into the sport that much sooner, than I think it's great. Also to address the hull thickness issue, I have seen a Tarpon kayak's hull deformed before too after sitting on a car in the sun for a few days. I think most kayaks could deform slightly in the right conditions. As I said in the beginning I have never used a F&S kayak before and don't pretend to so I have no idea if they are actually thinner than a Tarpon or not. If you look at the Eagle Talon's specs though and a Tarpon 120's specs though they have listed weights of 68 and 67 pounds respectively. While we all know that these numbers are probably skewed a bit by the manufacturers, they have to be pretty similar in weight I would subject to guess. If the seats, hardware, and hatches weigh relatively the same between the two kayaks, why is the thinner hull of the F&S not shown in the weight of the kayak? If the hulls were of comparable thickness than I would think that the hulls would weigh around the same which is what the specs show.
  11. Thanks for all the input. I ended up getting a Kryptonite Krypto Cable. Each end has a loop and I'm able to squeeze the loop just enough to slide through the scupper holes of my Tarpon. A lock between the two loops to something secure locks it all up securely. Whether it's the best cable or not, I don't know, but it seems thick enough to do its job. I'm sure with the right tools any cable can be cut pretty easily though. Hopefully I never have to find out though. Thanks guys
  12. FishMeister

    Locking it up

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