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New Construction Window Replacement

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Chunkah

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So I have put in plenty of replacement windows, but they always replaced old wooden sash windows. I have installed new construction windows in, well, new construction situations...but I have never replaced existing new construction windows. My assumption is I need to remove the exterior casing, remove the window, replace with another new construction unit, then case out the window, all the while waterproofing and flashing along the way. I have two questions...

1. Is there an easier way (are replacement windows an option)?

2. How does one accurately judge the RO based on the existing window size (is it as simple as measuring the exterior outside dimensions?

Thanks for your input!

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( 1 ) Any exterior window unit change is the same. Pull trim and/or siding, pull window, re-flash correctly w/ Vicor or the like. Install new window, case, etc..


Dont know an easier way if they aint original wood frames.


(2)  Best to pull some inside trim and get good numbers.  I wouldnt buy a window lest I knew it would fit in the hole. Some holes ya just cant make :freak:


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I always use metal tape on nailing flanges. Bottom first, then sides, with top last. Caulk is too slow, too weather dependent, and too messy. Having my guys get  silicone fingerprints on surfaces that will be stained or painted is a disaster.


Ed Panzella


"BAITS MOTEL" - 2450 Maycraft Pilothouse


Higganum, Ct

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can always us Gaf ice shield, as epanzella stated bottom , sides and top. if Alum or vinyl siding always put a bib to over lap the nailing strip on each side, water will exit the weep holes, wood siding can be caulked and painted but a strip of weathershield along the bottom under the window and over the siding doesn't hurt.

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I always "flash" the ro with ice and water shield. Bottom, sides, then top...overlapping onto the sheathing. The caulking or silicone is probably just overkill but that's ok. I will be casing around the window with Azek or a similar product.

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I always use metal tape on nailing flanges. Bottom first, then sides, with top last. Caulk is too slow, too weather dependent, and too messy. Having my guys get  silicone fingerprints on surfaces that will be stained or painted is a disaster.

 

Metal tape? Is that the same as foil tape used on duct work?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Chunkah View Post

 
Quote:

Originally Posted by epanzella View Post

I always use metal tape on nailing flanges. Bottom first, then sides, with top last. Caulk is too slow, too weather dependent, and too messy. Having my guys get  silicone fingerprints on surfaces that will be stained or painted is a disaster.


Metal tape? Is that the same as foil tape used on duct work?



There's a half dozen manufacturers that market some sore of flashing tape. 3M's version is #8067.  My local supply doesn't carry it but they do have some no name thin foil tape that works great. Many of the flashing tapes are not metal and one (Anderson, I think) looks like it's just repackaged packing tape. They all work but I've never had a leak with metal tape so I continue to use it. 


Ed Panzella


"BAITS MOTEL" - 2450 Maycraft Pilothouse


Higganum, Ct

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  • 2 weeks later...
( 1 ) Any exterior window unit change is the same. Pull trim and/or siding, pull window, re-flash correctly w/ Vicor or the like. Install new window, case, etc..

 

Dont know an easier way if they aint original wood frames.

 

(2)  Best to pull some inside trim and get good numbers.  I wouldnt buy a window lest I knew it would fit in the hole. Some holes ya just cant make :freak:

 

 

Are you sure you know what you are talking about? I mean what kind of experience do you have with windows anyway?

"We aren't At Large, we're just avoiding the police.."
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Originally Posted by Nitro882 View Post

Are you sure you know what you are talking about? I mean what kind of experience do you have with windows anyway?





I have windows in my house, and my neighbors' friend knows a guy who's cousin works for a contractor that put in a window once.


derf

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