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Pro Kote

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
Anyone have problems with pro kote
setting up? It's been 36 hours and it's still
tacky.
thanks
post #2 of 16
I've only used pro kote on a few rods but I had the same thing happen on one of them. Its most likely a bad mix/didn't mix it long enough issue. Putting another coat on should do the trick, just be sure to get exact 1:1 measurements and I find myself mixing for 4 to 5 minutes. Maybe even mix extra cc's as it leaves less room for error on the mix, no need to be thrifty.
post #3 of 16
Are you mixing it in one of those Mudhole mixing cups? That may be the problem. I used the cups once, and it was the only time i ever had mixing issues.
post #4 of 16
I use those plastic cups all the time, no issues for me. I keep them in the plastic sleeve in a drawer to keep from contamination.

What is the temperature in your finishing room? Colder it is the longer the set time.
post #5 of 16
Thread Starter 
I did use the cups from mud hole.
The temperature in the room was around 70.
It's 48 hours now and still tacky.
Might have been a mixing issue.
I'll try to put a coat over it.
Thanks guys,
post #6 of 16
pro kote is a soft finish when cured i am not a fan of it doesnt seem to mix well. thread masters i think is the best high build for butt wrapps and light build for top coat on guide wraps.
post #7 of 16
if you are using the yorker caps to squeeze out finish into cups and you dont have a equal mix or your off by a slight bit dont try to even . when you sit there and try to even them out you end up messing it up. what i\ would do is put it back in the bottles. take the cup from mudhole its fine nothing wrong with the cup. pour however many ccs of the thinner part finish in a cup since it will level out the quckest. add the second part of the same ccs. you can use two seperate cups heat them up a bit, then pour the thinner finish part into the thicker part . heat it up a little with a blow dryer on low make sure you are not around dust. and stir with something like a glass tube, or metal stick mud hole has a spatular kit that works great. when mixed completly i like to take a long tupperware top cover it with tin foil, pour the finish spread it out on the tin foil, and just heat it with the blowdryer slightly to push the air bubbles to the edges.


or just get syringes and get the proper amounts each time. i use a little acetone in either part of the mix first mix it then add he other part to the same cup
post #8 of 16
I only had 1 time where my Pro Kote did not fully dry and I believe it was not mixing long enough as I'm a stickler for exact measurements of epoxy. I mix 4 to 5 minutes now after that happened.
post #9 of 16
When you are mixing you have to use exactly equal amount. Use grad. suringes ( sorry about spelling) to measure. Most mixes go to a blurry pearlesence state to finnally nice and clear state thats when it is ready to use. Also what I like about suringes is you can set each suringe side by side and tellyou have the exact amount in each one thats the important thing
post #10 of 16
Heres another thought . . . Bubbles when mixing one of the best investments I have made is a mixer one of those little motors that rotate the cup with a weight sliding around in the mix epoxy mixes bubble free every time
post #11 of 16
Thread Starter 
Used Pro Kote for a second try. Did not set up again after 3 days.
Measured it from the supplied syringes temperature around 75 in
The room. Mixed it for 7 minutes. Any suggestions on what to
Use to remove it. Very frustrating!
Thanks,
Bjk
post #12 of 16
The best way to remove it appears to be a razor blade. i like to cut to the thread then unwind thr thread.


If you mix only till the opaque disappears and it becomes clear again you will have trouble. I mix much longer than when the finish goes clear.

I have never had a problem with the graduated medicine cups for measuring and mixing other than human error. I have purchased the cups from many sources , no issues.

If you are sure you measured accurately and did indeed mix for 7 minutes (did you time it or just estimating) then I can't think of anything more you can do. try a different brand. i like Aftcote.
post #13 of 16
bjk are you flaming the epoxy?
post #14 of 16
Thread Starter 
No flaming
Bjk
post #15 of 16
My garage was probably about 70 degrees the first time I used it, took about 2 days before tacky. I have a pellet stove in the garage so I fired it up the next time. I waited until the garage and rod were up to about 85-90, this also removed any moisture in the garage. This time it was tacky in about 8 hours and completely set up over night. The only problem was, the garage is in the basement under our master bedroom, wifey said it was too darn hot that night.

I'm thinking if you wait an hour or so, then either hit it with a heat lamp, or one of them there ceramic heaters blowing across the blank, you'll cut your drying time in half.
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