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Hobie rudder cable?

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
The rudder cable used for direction broke on my revo yesterday.
1- Is it hard to replace?
2- Does cable tension matter?
3- Since one broke should I replace them all (raise and lower the rudder)
4- Or should I forget about replacing it and bring it to a dealer?
Thanks
Bob
post #2 of 15
Bob, If you don't get any satisfaction here, call Adrian. I know he broke the same cable this fall, so he will know the scoop.
post #3 of 15
I would contact your local dealer because it might be a warrantied fix. I had the same problem and the dealer fixed it free of charge. Apparently the bolt that the left rudder line passes thru could have a burr on it. The dealer cleaned up the opening in the bolt with a round file and replaced the rudder cable.
post #4 of 15
I think the tension matters. My ruudder started to stop working a while back. It turns out it came up a little on it's own. Not out of the water but it allowed the rudder to freewheel. I have to keep the down cable handle about 3" past the keeper now to hold the rudder down.

Also, I can't believe there isn't a Youtube video of the replacement. There is a video of everthign else you can do to a hobie.

Good luck. Report back. I have o deal with mine soon too.
post #5 of 15
Bob, did the cable just come off the screw that holds it in place, or did the cable actually sever?? I fixed one on my friends Revo that came off the screw and with my kayak along side to keep checking for references, it was pretty easy but it did take some time (and cursing). If you have to get a new cable, I would say bring it to a dealer, but if the cable is still intact, give it a try.

Danny V
post #6 of 15
When the rudder is in the down position the down string should be tight with a little tension on it. The up string should have about 3/4 inch of slack. If its been less then two years since purchase the dealer will fix it free of charge.
post #7 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrell View Post

When the rudder is in the down position the down string should be tight with a little tension on it. The up string should have about 3/4 inch of slack. If its been less then two years since purchase the dealer will fix it free of charge.
Barrel it's the rudder cable for steering, I'm right on the fringe of the 2 year purchase date. I'll have to check and see if it's covered.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wicked Dan View Post

Bob, did the cable just come off the screw that holds it in place, or did the cable actually sever?? I fixed one on my friends Revo that came off the screw and with my kayak along side to keep checking for references, it was pretty easy but it did take some time (and cursing). If you have to get a new cable, I would say bring it to a dealer, but if the cable is still intact, give it a try.
Danny V

The cable broke where it exits the kayak. I was able to tie the two Broken ends together . Since the string was shorter I could only go straight or turn left. It worked well enough that i didn't have to cut the day short.
post #8 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by bentstick View Post

The cable broke where it exits the kayak. I was able to tie the two Broken ends together . Since the string was shorter I could only go straight or turn left. It worked well enough that i didn't have to cut the day short.
Ive seen that on a tandem. The customer returned it the day after purchase and I restrung it but a few days later it broke again at the nipple where it exits the kayak. I changed the nipple and restrung it again and I never heard from him again. I inspected the nipple and did not see and burs or any reason why it would cut the 800 pound test braid but it did. We now wax the cord on every Hobie we sell at the time of purchase. You can use bow, candle, or surfboard wax.
post #9 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrell View Post

Ive seen that on a tandem. The customer returned it the day after purchase and I restrung it but a few days later it broke again at the nipple where it exits the kayak. I changed the nipple and restrung it again and I never heard from him again. I inspected the nipple and did not see and burs or any reason why it would cut the 800 pound test braid but it did. We now wax the cord on every Hobie we sell at the time of purchase. You can use bow, candle, or surfboard wax.

Which wax is closest to beeswax, kind of sticky, i know it's not the candle wax. It's got to be bow, i use to use it all the time. Answered my own question , if i'm wrong let me know.
post #10 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrell View Post

When the rudder is in the down position the down string should be tight with a little tension on it. The up string should have about 3/4 inch of slack. If its been less then two years since purchase the dealer will fix it free of charge.

Barrell, do I have a problem when my rudder pops up out of a down and locked position on its own? It seems to stay down if I pull about 3-4 inched more string length out of the boat at the handle and then lock the string in the keeper inside the gear tray. Maybe I just need to shorten it at the rudder?? Thanks. Andy
post #11 of 15
I described above the proper adjustment of the strings. Check it and adjust acordingly. Or bring it to me.
post #12 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrell View Post

I described above the proper adjustment of the strings. Check it and adjust acordingly. Or bring it to me.

With the handle in what position?
post #13 of 15
I just realized Bensticks original question was about the left/right strings. I gave info on the up/down. The left/right is pretty straightforward. Just tighten with a bit of tension both left and right strings. Have the steering handle at 1 oclock when the rudder is straight. This allows the same amount travel both left and right. Hobies website has detailed instructions on everthing to do with the rudder.
post #14 of 15
When adjusting the rudder cables (left & right) I take out all the slack.With the rudder pointing straight and the rudder control knob at 1 oclock like barrel stated.I have seen new hobies adjusted with a ton play in the the rudder control.
post #15 of 15
Thread Starter 
I made the repair today with a waxed lacing cord. Swapping out the cord was fairly easy, but found the lacing cord frayed to easy. It's a better temporary fix until I get the correct cord.
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