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TEsting Trailer lights

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I need to do some rewiring/light replacement on the trailer...The boat's in the water for most of the summer, so it's easy enough to pull the trailer out and work on it in the yard. I may have to rewire it as well. My question is this:

Is there a way to test the lights without hooking it up to the back of the truck? Do I need to get a portable battery or are there other options?

My jeep doesn't have a trailer hitch so I'd like to avoid changing cars every time I want to do some electrical work on the trailer.

Thanks
post #2 of 8
A battery charger will work.
post #3 of 8
Well you need a power source that is 12 volts, so you can use the car battery or use a 120v-12v converter
post #4 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybob View Post
A battery charger will work.

Ayuh.
Battery chargers are 110 ac to 12 v DC. Use it all the time to run a 12 v DC bilge pump to pump out my boat - convenient when at the dock. I separate wired a BP to accept the charger as input.
post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 
ok I've been thinking of getting a battery charger anyway...

I'm relatively new to this boat thing...the truck I tow with already had the hitch and I use a 4-pin connector to go to the trailer

How do I get a charger/or battery to the same 4 pin configuration so I can plug the trailer in to test it?
post #6 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfrat666 View Post
How do I get a charger/or battery to the same 4 pin configuration so I can plug the trailer in to test it?


Auto parts store, look for a wiring harness or something else you can modify to fit
post #7 of 8
Or, you just put a nail in each clamp of the charger, put the neg in the ground and stick the pos in each of the others, one at a time - see if it lights.
I am Billybob after all.
post #8 of 8
Get an extra male plug and wire it such that the 4 (or 5, depends on your harness system) extend some convenient length from the plug. Color code, i.e., use standard Y, B, GR, R etc wires, bare the ends, spread them out and then simply attach the neg (-) clamp to ground wire (BR) and the pos clamp to each wire in succession. Be sure to separate ends of wires and don’t short the clamps while testing.
BB’s nail thing is OK but you haven’t much space to touch the prongs w/o the risk of shorting. I generally have the ground wire extending from the test plug much longer than the other wires and stagger the lengths of the wires so I minimize any opportunity for shorting and touch more than one “hot†wire at a time. This is also a method to determine whether you have a bad harness to ground.
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