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Rough framing a 3 sided bathtub

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
Couple newb framing questions...

I don't have the tub yet, but framed the RO already (mistake #1). Installation instructions say to frame according to the tub dimensions but after thinking about it i can't see how a tub x inches long can fit into a RO x inches across without beating my nice and plumb doug firs to a pulp wit a hammer.

I also just noticed in the picture there is a tile flange running vertically along the front finished skirt and again, my rough is exactly wide as the tub, which means the tile flange will be flush with the rough opening. The tile flange is .25...should i bump out my wall a bit and by how much? I expect my tile man would be tiling right over the flange and i doubt .25 is enough meat...

Plan is to get the tub and measure what i have rather than go by what is on paper. Should i make the RO a little larger so the tub can slide in? I am hoping the sawzall doen't need to come out again....

Last question: Going to use a shower curtain when its all done, but if i ever plan to install a glass screen across the tub, do i need to sister another 2x4 on the corner where the glass would be screwed into? Would like to keep that option open for the future. Thanks for any replies.
post #2 of 20
You can notch the studs from the top of the flange down 3" or so, 1/8" on each end gives you a 1/4" total.



Your installer will need to either fur out the studs so the cbu hangs over the flange or stop the cbu at the flange and let the tile alone cover the flange.



`
post #3 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadwall8 View Post
You can notch the studs from the top of the flange down 3" or so, 1/8" on each end gives you a 1/4" total.

Your installer will need to either fur out the studs so the cbu hangs over the flange or stop the cbu at the flange and let the tile alone cover the flange.

`


Interesting...assuming cbu is the cement board that encases the tub enclosure. I am not sure what he's going to do...i always assumed he would go right over the flange which would put the wall out of plumb slightly.

By notching the studs the flange would rest inside of them and he can just screw in the cement boards right over the flange without furring out the studs correct? What is preferred?
post #4 of 20
Either notching or furring is fine.



IMHO, if you are paying someone to install the tile, that person should install the cbu.



post #5 of 20
im at the same spot in my basement remodel, im just being held up right now because i need to get the plumbing roughed in. wife is insisting on a tub but i dont think ill be able to fit a 60"er in there, might have to go with a 54. my walls are all framed out but i only secured them with a couple screws in the top and bottom plates so i can still move em around. my newbie research about framing a bathub is to measure the walls exactly to the dimensions of the tub then notch the flanges into the wall studs so they are flush, put up the vapor barrier and drop it down in front of the flanges, then put your cement board up.

im hoping when we actually get the tub the wife will come to her senses and let me do a full tile shower with a nice sitting ledge thing.
post #6 of 20
Thread Starter 
No such thing as a 54" bathtub...who's going to take a bath in t here beetlejuice...60 is standard size and everything larger is $$$$.

I had a problem wit my plumber he did not plumb my bath hot and cold water lines in the right place since there was no floor...everything was open and he messed it up...double work now and its going to be harder this time...i suggest you finalize your rough open framing first and then plumb around it. Lesson learned for me.
post #7 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by gobigblue View Post
im hoping when we actually get the tub the wife will come to her senses and let me do a full tile shower with a nice sitting ledge thing.
The sitting ledge thing is nice.

Instead of a lead pan we fiberglassed our shower, which allowed for some flexibility in the design. it was a couple of hundred bucks, then the the tile guy did his mud job over it.
post #8 of 20
Thread Starter 
^ I got the idea from a woman who works at Atlantic Plumbing in Long branch...some people want a ledge to put there things on...i would think you want your tile installer to pitch the tiles on the ledge obviously there will be standing water which inevitably will seep through. I found some people go with the Kerdi system which is a waterproof membrane you put over the cement board and tile right over it....just something to consider if you build a ledge...there was also some product Tile-EZ makes called a "niche" which you screw right into the wall and tile over it, no worries about water getting through supposedly. I'm not sure what they are made from she said the company would not disclose. I guess there are many ways to skin this cat...
post #9 of 20
We used mable on the seat.
post #10 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly By Nite View Post
No such thing as a 54" bathtub...who's going to take a bath in t here beetlejuice...60 is standard size and everything larger is $$$$.

I had a problem wit my plumber he did not plumb my bath hot and cold water lines in the right place since there was no floor...everything was open and he messed it up...double work now and its going to be harder this time...i suggest you finalize your rough open framing first and then plumb around it. Lesson learned for me.


bathtubs come in all different shapes and sizes. no one has ever taken a bath in my house anyway except for the dogs. happy wife happy life. if the past is any indication she will change her mind as soon as i finish the framing. i just finished redoing a weeks worth of work because she discovered pocket doors
post #11 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by gobigblue View Post
happy wife happy life.
That's a bunch of crap.

I'm not saying that an adult conversation about the issues that are important to both parties before making a decision shouldn't happen, but in the end, I just do what I want.

Why does she want a tub instead of a shower?
post #12 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gobigblue View Post
happy wife happy life.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kings over Queens View Post
in the end, I just do what I want.



If the shoe fits, koq...
post #13 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadwall8 View Post
Either notching or furring is fine.



IMHO, if you are paying someone to install the tile, that person should install the cbu.






post #14 of 20
[quote=Fly By Nite;7413887]No such thing as a 54" bathtub...who's going to take a bath in t here beetlejuice...60 is standard size and everything larger is $$$$.

IKOHLER K-745 Seaforth Bath with Left-Hand Drain
Straightforward styling and durable KOHLER Cast Iron construction ensure that the Seaforth bath will offer long-lasting beauty to your bathroom. This compact model is less than 5' long and features an integral apron for easy alcove installation, as well as a left-hand drain.
Available Finishes:
Biscuit - K-745-96
White - K-745-0


  • 54"L x 30-1/4"W x 14"H
  • Three-wall alcove installation
  • Designed for one-person bathing
post #15 of 20
Call NIB.
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