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Simple Loss Proof Kayak Anchor. DIY

post #1 of 33
Thread Starter 
Kayak Fishing Tip 97.
Loss Proof Kayak Anchor DIY

I've made a half dozen Loss Proof yak anchors for my friends and me. All you need is a little PVC Pipe, 1 pipe cap, about 4' of 2 gauge copper ground wire, a hand saw or hacksaw and a 1/4" drill. I added heat shrink tubing to the tines, just for the heck of it.

You should be able to see how I made this one from the attached photos.

Here is the finished anchor. I filled mine with concrete.

The copper tines of this anchor are easy to break loose from a snag and easy to bend back into shape.

An anchor is a safety item. I wouldn't launch without one. I anchor in fishy spots when fly fishing. I seldom use bait but you gotta have an anchor if you fish bait. I like to anchor at ambush points and wait for fish to blow up then put a fly or plug right in the middle of them.

I use 550 cord for anchor line and control the anchor line with a jam cleat. I wrap the anchor line on a plastic Bass Buoy. (H shaped winder) When I need to chase a fish, I pop the line out of the jam cleat and drop the buoy over the side. I can come back to it after landing the fish.
post #2 of 33
Brilliant !

Where do you get the wire ?
post #3 of 33
Kenray - Nice design. I like to keep things simple and cheap and your design fits the bill. Will this anchor design hold on a sand or mud bottom?

Sudsy - I'm sure the wire is available at Lowes or Home Depot. Its pretty common stuff found in ever home.
post #4 of 33
Isnt copper that thick pretty expensive? I dont know I am asking. An 3lb anchor at a shop is about $20. Factor in time and materials. IDK. I like it but I am not looking for any extra projects. My wife wants the darn lawn mowed. lol.
post #5 of 33
Thread Starter 
I already had the PVC pipe and cap left over from an earlier project. The Copper ground wire came from Home Depot and cost less than $5 as I recall. This stuff is about half the size of a pencil but plenty strong enough to hold a yak unless you drop anchor when you are hauling butt.

This shouldn't be over a 20 minute project.

My anchor hangs over the strut of my Standnfish and is barely in the water where it has minimal effect on paddling. I have a jam cleat right beside my left leg to secure the anchor. When I see fish busting or come to a perfect spot, I slip the anchor line out of the jam cleat, lower the anchor, slip some scope then pop the line into the jam cleat and start fishing.

Some would argue that a grapnel type anchor doesn't hold well in mud or sand. That is true for larger boats and true even for kayaks if the wind and/or current is strong

The folding anchors get hung and lost here in all of our rocks and oysters. I've been using these little anchors for a while and haven't lost one yet. I average fishing 4 days per week and anchor a dozen or more times each trip.

SAFETY TIP! Buoy your anchor line where you can toss it quick. Do not tie it solidly to your yak. If an emergency happens, you gotta get loose quick or swamp.

I hate trolleys. Trolleys make it very difficult to dump your anchor quick. There is a much better and safer way to anchor off either end of your yak. That's Tip # 98.
post #6 of 33
if you already have an anchor, whether it be danforth or the grapple type, secure your anchor chain(yes I use chain the kayak) to the head of the anchor(opposite end you would normally fasten it to). then run the chain up the arm of the anchor. put 1 wrap of electrical tape halfway up the arm to hold it there. then either take a piece of 10-15# mono and tie the chain to where you would normally fasten the chain, or use a piece of this wire with only a twist or two.

this way if the anchor gets stuck, you paddle up to it, give a couple hard yanks which breaks free the mono/wire, and keep paddline forward, and you will pull the anchor out backwards.
post #7 of 33
I see this as the perfect tool for anchoring over likely blackfish spots, where a regular folding anchor will certainly get stuck and lost.

I'm going to do it a little differently. Rather then the PVC and cement, I'm going to do it the same way ya make a bridge gaff (do a search). Small length of scrap copper pipe filled with lead.
post #8 of 33
Looks great, and lightweight. Some steel rebar should also do the trick. thanks for the idea!
post #9 of 33
Ship, Your right copper isd expensive but if you know any electricians they will have scraps laying round or you can use rebar.
post #10 of 33
Thread Starter 
The object of the game is to anchor and get your anchor back. Chances are, you can't pull over about 30# from a yak and that definitely won't straighten out re-bar. Additionally, re-bar rusts.

Heavy aluminum wire or light rod will work as will small (1/8") stainless steel welding rods.

I use copper because it is easy to work with and can be bent and returned to original form with little effort.
post #11 of 33
i use a 12lb mushroom and tie it to my foot big milk jug on the end, floatation
post #12 of 33
is that just ground wire? (for use to ground electrical panels, etc)

i think i have a roll of that.
post #13 of 33
Thread Starter 
The stuff in Romex is about 12 gauge. 2 Gauge is about 3/16" in diameter.

My anchor weighs around 3 pounds.
post #14 of 33
Yes that is ground wire bought at any home depot, lowes the amount you need about 7 bucks
post #15 of 33
another great tip- thanks captain
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