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broke the e-z out trying to get the broken bolt out...

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
heat
penetrating oil
hammer
bigger hammer

i have been there!

broke off a bolt on the jeep... ok fine wanna play hardball. go get an e-z out. drill the bolt for the e z out to fit. go and torque it and the e-z out snaps off. how the heck do i attack this now??
post #2 of 20
What is it that you're trying to remove from, cylinder head, exhaust stud, broken bolt? Did the EZ-out break off flush with the bolt? Did the bolt or stub break off flush with the surface?
post #3 of 20
happened to me and it was a pits to get out. u may have to drill another hole next to the bolt hole, or get a torch and melt it out. it took me and my buddy 4 hours 14 drill bits 2 punches to get a thread cleaner out
post #4 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwalter7 View Post
What is it that you're trying to remove from, cylinder head, exhaust stud, broken bolt? Did the EZ-out break off flush with the bolt? Did the bolt or stub break off flush with the surface?
its to a bushing collar that hold the track bar bushing to the frame. cannot see the other side of the bolt. broke flush to the frame, both e-z out and bolt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jae View Post
happened to me and it was a pits to get out. u may have to drill another hole next to the bolt hole, or get a torch and melt it out. it took me and my buddy 4 hours 14 drill bits 2 punches to get a thread cleaner out

thats what im gonna try and do. drill a couple smaller holes all around it and see if i cant pick it out with a punch or awl.

was gonna try and break it up with a punch but that seems like if it doesnt work the e-z out will be more of a pita to get out.

yeah yeah spiral extractors!!
post #5 of 20
I'm an expert at E-Zout removal.

Don't bother trying to drill it out, that doesn't work. The EZout is harder than any drill bit you will find. Heat and penetrating oil is a waste of time too. The best method I found is to buy a small carbide grinding bit for a Dremel tool and slowly grind the E-Z out away.( usually takes 30 minutes or less) Once you've gotten all of it ground away take a drill bit and drill out the old bolt. Then take a tap & die set and use the tap to remove the old bolt material from the threads. Its a lot easier than it sounds.

If you have access to a cutting torch theres ways of blasting the whole thing free. Its by far the fastest method, but ya gotta have the equipment. Google it for more instructions.
post #6 of 20
I totally agree , an e-z out is harder than any drill bit , but here is a system I have used many times and has never failed me , get a nut with the same ID as the broken bolt , holding it directly over the broken bolt , close as possible , weld the broken bolt to the nut , trying to catch all the surface , now just let cool for a few seconds till the bright red disappears , and put the wrench on the nut , and rock the bolt each time trying to untighten it more than tighten it , if it starts moving you are in good shape , sometimes I have broken the nut off and had to re do it , but it has always worked for me , good luck -- Frank T
post #7 of 20
stupid carbide bits, went through cobalt and titanium bit like a hot knife through butter, throwing money away, and this happened twice, once with a snap on extractor, next was the thread cleaner, bolt was drilled out and we were just cleaning the threads then snap, and lots of really bad words
post #8 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by FTRAV View Post
I totally agree , an e-z out is harder than any drill bit , but here is a system I have used many times and has never failed me , get a nut with the same ID as the broken bolt , holding it directly over the broken bolt , close as possible , weld the broken bolt to the nut , trying to catch all the surface , now just let cool for a few seconds till the bright red disappears , and put the wrench on the nut , and rock the bolt each time trying to untighten it more than tighten it , if it starts moving you are in good shape , sometimes I have broken the nut off and had to re do it , but it has always worked for me , good luck -- Frank T


i gotta remember this one......
post #9 of 20
Next time try PB Blaster and heat instead of the penetrating oil.

When I helped my buddy rebuild his jeep we had seven bolts we couldn't get loose. He was told thats the best way to get them out. All seven came out after a day of soaking in the PB Blaster and alittle heat.
post #10 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerrickT View Post
Next time try PB Blaster and heat instead of the penetrating oil.

When I helped my buddy rebuild his jeep we had seven bolts we couldn't get loose. He was told thats the best way to get them out. All seven came out after a day of soaking in the PB Blaster and alittle heat.


nothing will get a stuck fastener out better than patience
post #11 of 20
Actually PB and a couple of hammer blows will do wonders too. No heat. But don't miss at all on the hammer blows.

FTRAV gave one of the best ideas. I've seen this used to get a 1-1/4" hold down stud free. The heating/cooling cycle seems to do the trick.
post #12 of 20
most easy outs are carbides, or other high grade, very hard metals. patience and PB blaster with a map gas or propane torch will usually do the trick on almost anything, you cant rush it. the heat expands metal, while the pb will quench and cool the bolt and penetrate in between threads, usually heating and spraying a few times is needed. back to the stuck easy out. if you get a can of quick freeze or nut freeze, you can heat the crap out of the surounding metal, it expands. the directly shoot the broken ez out to contract it. a sharp punch, on an angle in the out (clock wise direction) should turn and loosen the ez out. unless you can grab it with some vise grips or pliers. expansion and contraction is used a lot. i work on aircraft parts and we heat and cool bearing and bushings all the time. some are basicaly zero tolerance parts but will expand and contract a few thousands of an inch and fall in like a hot dog down a hall way. drill bits will just keep walking off to the soft metal.
post #13 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by typem4me View Post
nothing will get a stuck fastener out better than patience



also, before you try and loosen it-----try to tighten it first

this really works
post #14 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by dogboy View Post
also, before you try and loosen it-----try to tighten it first

this really works



Specially with an easy-out, since it is reverse threaded.

Righty tighty will back it out.
post #15 of 20
Thread Starter 
Well it worked! Welded a nut onto the threads and it came out. Took a few tries but it worked. Had to build up the broken bolt quite a bit to get the weld to penatrate. On the last try tightened then loosened and tightened and loosened and it broke free.
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