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Leader recipe for 11ft switch rods

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
Have a switch rod and I would like to have some guidelines, or do it yourself directions on tying up leaders. Rod is an 8 wt and I have floating and sinking tip lines. I know the leaders should be about 1& 1 1/2 times the rod length. I will be fishing for stripers, blue fish, weakfish, off the beach, using poppers to various sinking flies.
post #2 of 14
You might do better in the Fly Fishing Forum.
post #3 of 14
Indeed he might, so I'm going to move this thread accordingly.
post #4 of 14
This succested leader lenght 1 to 1.5 times rod lenght is needed for Spey casting when old type lines and shooting heads, which has less front taper, are used. Many modern Spey lines have long front tapers which makes easy anghoring and good line flight and delicate turnover but with rather small flys which usually salmon and trout flyes are. Sometimes fish are so scary that very long leaders are needed though.

If you use large flys you may and should shorten the leader and if you do Spey casts with large flys you have to use short leader as well to succeed with anghoring.
post #5 of 14
I recommend you consider buying few different lenght of tapered mono leaders and steel tippet rÃ*ngs which you tie to the thin end with Uni knot. And to this ring you tie the tippet with Uni knot. Mono is fine but you may use fluorocarbon when you fish around rocks as Fluoro does not get scratches and therefore brake so easy. And sometimes Fluoro has an advantage as it is less visible in the water.

Tapered leader does not shorten because of the tippet ring so they become cheap to use. And leader does not collect debris because of less knots.

Another great product are Polyleaders which come in different lenghts and sink rates. Tippet rings improve their usage as well. With Polyleaders it is easy to tune fly line for delicate presentation with many debths. And they can be used to lenghten the fly line. With Polyleader many OH line becomes good Spey line in minutes.
post #6 of 14
Did you get the Beulah Surf rod? Picked one up yesterday. The thing can cast a mile with 2 hauls. When I fish a sinking line on my 9ft 10wt, I have a straight shot of 20-30 lb mono 3 ft long. If you fish a sinking line with a long leader the fly will be a bit higher in the water column than your line.
post #7 of 14
What else did you think of the rod? If its not too expensive i might pick up one.
post #8 of 14
Roger, leader construction has a lot to do with what type of line system you are using.

Use those long leaders for Scandi casting (touch & go), if you are using a Skagit system (sustained anchor) with heavy sink tips use a shorter leader.

If you are overhead casting with an outbound or 40+ style of line just use what you would use with a SH rod.
post #9 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the time all of you have taken to reply. I am using a Beuleah 420 grain floating and a Outbound sink tip. So with overhead casting I will stick with my regular striper setup.
post #10 of 14
If you take a look at the tapers of the Beulah 420gr. Elixir line (scandi style) and the Outbound lines, they are exactly opposite in their design. The Elixir is designed for long leaders and Polyleaders (these don't sink quickly in salt) typically they don't OH very well, because they aren't designed to.

But, if you are fishing in a current like a tidal river system, with smaller flies, the Elixir line will be very nice. When using polyleaders to get down a little they cast effortlessly once you get your stroke down. This is the way I like to fish my 11' switcher.

Best of luck and enjoy it. You should check out Spey Nation III on the Salmon River this summer to delve deeper into this style of fishing.
post #11 of 14
Good morning Roger
As you will be using your new rod for saltwater applications,
I would suggest the following,
the 60, 20, 20 Rule.

60 percent of the leader length being the butt section, and the final 20 percent being the tippet section.

For and 8w, myself, I would use 50 pound mono for the butt, then 30, then 20 with a short bite tippet added to this overal lenght.

Length, this wil depend on the wind strength and direction, eg into your face of side on.

In to your face breeze, overal length is decreased to around 6 to 8 feet depending on the flies size and bulk.

In your face, a double tapered leader can be of an advantage, eg, 50, 20 and then 50 again, again on the 60, 20, 20 rule.

With the breeze from behind you a longer leader can also be an advantage and can increase the cast distance.

Trust I have helped and not confused,
Kind regards
post #12 of 14
NJFly, I assume the "poly" leader to which you refer is made of polypropylene?
post #13 of 14
Originally Posted by BrianBM View Post
NJFly, I assume the "poly" leader to which you refer is made of polypropylene?

Polyleaders have fluorocarbon of mono core and they have coatings so they come different sink rates with lenghts 5 to at least 15ft. They are lighter than noirmal sinking tips but being thinner they sink quite well. They allow delicate presentation and they can be used to lenghten fly line if there is a need to have better anghoring for Spey casts when fly size is reduced a lot and to use same line/head with adjasent rod weights or different lenghts etc.

Nice use of polyleaders is to use them to do Skagit style sustained anghor casts with light SH rods.
post #14 of 14
i don't think you need a tapered or long leader for DH casting. I have used a straight 9ft shot of 12-20lb fluoro with my 13ft & 14ft spey rods quite happily for fifteen years or so.

presentation and turnover is not really an issue unless you are on the flats or in real skinny water ( less than three feet) - a you are looking for either distance with an overhead cast or to swing the fly at the right depth in front of the holding fish.

a pack of poly leaders is useful if you are just starting out, but you can manage without them if you cast uptide and make a series of 'upstream' mends before the fly comes past you.

An alternative to poly leaders is the T13 tungsten impregnated lengths - you can cut and loop them in 3', 6' and 9' etc lengths to get the right depth to get you hard on the bottom - i'd also recommend a clouser or half n half to do that too.


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