Ben Lippen Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 6 Tips to prevent wood splitting 1) Test Pieces The single most important tip to avoid wood splitting in your perfectly sawed, squared, and sanded workpiece, is to first test the joint with some scrap workpieces cut from the same stock as your final workpiece. If you have problems with the scrap workpiece, you'll probably have trouble with the final workpiece unless you follow one or more of the tips below. 2) Make sure you're using Kreg Screws Kreg screws have several features designed to limit/eliminate wood splitting in your joints. - The self-tapping tip drills the wood as it's driven. - The small diameter shank of our Pan Head SPS screws displaces less wood. - The flat head doesn't wedge the wood apart when tightened down. - The half-threaded shank eliminates binding. 3) Use Fine Thread in Hardwood Coarse Thread screws displace more wood thanks to a more aggressive thread pattern. When you're joining hardwoods, which are more prone to splitting, we recommend using fine thread screws whenever possible. 4) Screw it In, Back it Out By driving your screw half way in, back out, and then in again, you'll reduce excess wood in the hole and reduce the chance for splitting. 5) Reduce Friction In extremely hard woods such as Maple or Hickory, applying some bee's wax or other lubricant to the screw, you'll reduce the friction of the screw entering the workpiece. 6) Clamp, Clamp, Clamp The primary benefit of clamping is to eliminate joint shift and reduce the need for sanding. Clamping appropriately also reduces workpiece movement/vibration, both of which can cause splitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerrickT Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 We got a jig, not sure who makes it but it drills out both sides so splitting is not a problem. Works real nice and has come in handy very often. Has to different set ups depending on the length of the screws are that you want to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kml Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 ---Edit I thought this was pocket pool tips Just trying to contribute Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plug n Flyguy Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 One and only tip needed for pocket holes. READ the forkin manual that comes with your jig. Weather it be a $3000 machine or a $100 jig, Kreg aswell as some others do a very good job of explaining (how to) and (what if), with all their tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Lippen Posted February 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 We got a jig, not sure who makes it but it drills out both sides so splitting is not a problem. Works real nice and has come in handy very often. Has to different set ups depending on the length of the screws are that you want to use. ---Edit I thought this was pocket pool tips Just trying to contribute One and only tip needed for pocket holes. READ the forkin manual that comes with your jig. Weather it be a $3000 machine or a $100 jig, Kreg aswell as some others do a very good job of explaining (how to) and (what if), with all their tools. These three posts are exactly why I rarely post here anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plug n Flyguy Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 These three posts are exactly why I rarely post here anymore. I don't see why you would take it so personal. Your post while very informative, is what would be in any manufactures pocket hole jig manual. If someone chooses not to read it, which is typical of most, so be it. Don't be so thin skinned.........I don't see anyone mocking you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connetquot Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 I've got and use a Kreg kit. I've read (and still read) the manual, but in several instances found it to be kind of confusing. I't could be "operator headspace and timng" as we used to say in the Army, or it could be that the manual is a bit jargon-y for a non-pro like me. So, anytime somebody that makes their living in the trades wants to post up, I'm glad to read what they have to say... That said, those manuals can be real handy things... Especially if you've grown fond of your digit and other body parts. Jeff B. "The real destroyer of the liberties of the people is he who spreads among them bounties, donations and benefits"Plutarch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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