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Symptoms of a bad torque converter!

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Can someone give me some symptoms of a torque converter about eat it? My 90 Cherokee is starting to act funny. The RPM's like to jump when down shifting. It also likes to almost stall after braking. Its making me Irate at this point because it didnt do it all the time, now it seems like more days than not it likes to do this! Its an Auto tranny. And the fluid level is good and not burned up. It got changed about 2 years ago only because I blew a cooler line.
post #2 of 12
Wanting to stall after braking or coming to a stop sounds like a sticky converter lock-up solenoid, sticky spring/check ball, clogged passage or bad connection/faulty electronics/computer. The torque converter usually doesn't "go bad". A dealer should be able to hook it up to a computer to diagnose. You might want to consider a tranny re-build (cheaper than replacing the tranny). I believe your Jeep has a combination type tranny/transfer case that is huge, heavy and a bit difficult to work with.

Jeep trannys aren't the most bullet-proof. I owned two 4.0 Cherokees (88 and 92) and both had tranny problems.
post #3 of 12
Get yourself some carb cleaner and an old toothbrush and clean your throttle body and IAC or "idle air controller". I bet the inside of the throttle body and the IAC is black. Easiest and cheapest place to start.

As far as your tranny, you have an Aisin Warner or AW4, also called the A340. Used in many years of XJ and YJ Jeeps, Toyota Supras and Land Cruisers, Volvos and I have even seen one in a small Mitsubishi box truck. Medium duty and almost bulletproof in the XJ if kept cool. I have run three of them for over 3/4 of a million miles, all on lifted Jeeps with over sized tires and used in extreme coonditions. All were original and never rebuilt. Again, KEEP IT COOL! If you drive it on the beach do not wait until the fluid needs to be changed. You do not have to change it all by dropping the pan just drain from the plug and refill. Also do not listen to your local Jeep dealer or anyone else about the fluid. Most dealers will put in ATF3 which is wrong and lead to many of the problems you may hear about the tranny. It is an older Japanese built tranny and requires Dexronlll/Mercron, or a suitable synthetic replacement.

If this does not work look at the TCU and TPS next. If you live on LI bring it by.
post #4 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by whewdoggie View Post
Get yourself some carb cleaner and an old toothbrush and clean your throttle body and IAC or "idle air controller". I bet the inside of the throttle body and the IAC is black. Easiest and cheapest place to start.

As far as your tranny, you have an Aisin Warner or AW4, also called the A340. Used in many years of XJ and YJ Jeeps, Toyota Supras and Land Cruisers, Volvos and I have even seen one in a small Mitsubishi box truck. Medium duty and almost bulletproof in the XJ if kept cool. I have run three of them for over 3/4 of a million miles, all on lifted Jeeps with over sized tires and used in extreme coonditions. All were original and never rebuilt. Again, KEEP IT COOL! If you drive it on the beach do not wait until the fluid needs to be changed. You do not have to change it all by dropping the pan just drain from the plug and refill. Also do not listen to your local Jeep dealer or anyone else about the fluid. Most dealers will put in ATF3 which is wrong and lead to many of the problems you may hear about the tranny. It is an older Japanese built tranny and requires Dexronlll/Mercron, or a suitable synthetic replacement.

If this does not work look at the TCU and TPS next. If you live on LI bring it by.



I know for a fact that the IAC and TB are spotless!!!!! The IAC and TPS are Brand new within 6 months the only other thing I thought of was the fuse for the TCU and that was fine. As far as the TCU where is it located?
post #5 of 12
So you find the problem yet? Curious as to what the problem is/was...
post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 
I really have just been driving it! I comes and goes it seems now. Im actually thinking that I may pull the dash panel and check the connector to the Trans control unit. wanna make sure everything is ok there then move on to other things.
post #7 of 12
matt mabe the o2 sensor?
post #8 of 12
The TCU is behind the panel under the glove compartment. Just because the IAC was changed will not mean it is good. Other simple things to check are the throttle kick down cable linkage and a bit tougher the transmission solenoids. My 89 acted like it wanted to stall when braking and almost coming to a stop and it turned out to be a fuel injector. Never imagined it would have been that.
post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jae View Post
matt mabe the o2 sensor?


James, The O2 sensor is about 6 months new. replaced it with the rest of the exhaust.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whewdoggie View Post
The TCU is behind the panel under the glove compartment. Just because the IAC was changed will not mean it is good. Other simple things to check are the throttle kick down cable linkage and a bit tougher the transmission solenoids. My 89 acted like it wanted to stall when braking and almost coming to a stop and it turned out to be a fuel injector. Never imagined it would have been that.


Iac is good I tried the old one I had and the new one works fine.
How and what do I check when im looking for the throttle kickdown cable linkage and tranny solenoids?
post #10 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Lure Washer View Post
James, The O2 sensor is about 6 months new. replaced it with the rest of the exhaust.



Iac is good I tried the old one I had and the new one works fine.
How and what do I check when im looking for the throttle kickdown cable linkage and tranny solenoids?

id suspect a vacuum leak or a lockup solenoid (if this tranny has one) there are specs for them that require you to pull the pan and stick an ohm meter in them...
post #11 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by toyota View Post
id suspect a vacuum leak or a lockup solenoid (if this tranny has one) there are specs for them that require you to pull the pan and stick an ohm meter in them...


What he said. I probably still have the write ups on the solenoid procedure. I will see if I can find them and send it your way. Did it once but it did not turn out to be my problem. It is common enough though.
post #12 of 12
idk throw some lucas injector cleaner in ur gas while u keep hunting for the prob. i think the solenoid is in the tranny, i think u have to drop the pan for that...
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