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Painting a reel

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Gollum

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After seeing Apexkeeper's incredible "Hemi" reel, I am inspired to try my hand at rebuilding a reel. I've got the paint stripped off of the rotor cup so far (working on the housing this afternoon) but I don't know how I'm going to paint it.

 

I'm interested in how you guys (specifically Apexkeeper) do a repaint. I'm want to do a good job involving primer, baking, and probably some epoxy based paint.

 

If you can give a basic overview of the tools necessary (types of compressor/spray gun and whatever other tools), that would be great. I don't really know a lot about paint.

 

If someone could do a "how-to" that would be awesome.

 

Since all threads are better with pictures, here is the original beast and the the rotor cup for my 710 rebuild so far. The stripping isn't perfect, but pretty good. (I should have taken some pictures of the nastiness that used to be inside, but alas, I did not).

 

The beast:

525

 

Stripped rotor cup:

525

525

525

How we wish to catch a fish so juicy sweet.
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Your gonna get a different answer from everyone you ask...

 

Take your time is my best advice, plan on spending a few days to a week.

 

Strip the old paint completely with chemicals or blasting. Then start sanding with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Get everything nice and smooth then CLEAN! First with soap and scotchbrite, then with a good paint prep product or alcohol.

 

After the reel is dry you can bake prior to painting (optional) helps get any embedded solvents/oils out that can contaminate the paint. Important thing for cast metals. You would be amazed how much crap can boil out of cast aluminum that otherwise looks clean. Put the parts in your oven and bring them up to 400-450 for 5-10 minutes then let them cool back down. Clean them again with your paintprep or alcohol. (This step is required for powder coating, optional for painting)

 

Now your parts are clean, smooth, ready for a finish. Do not do them cold, if you have an oven use it. Get them up to 80 degrees or so. 100+ for powder.

 

Apply 2-3 light coats of primer waiting 2-10 minutes between coats. Then allow the primer to dry to whatever the manufacturer suggests. Generally its not long 30 minutes to 1 hour.

 

Wet sand the primer with 400-800 grit (even higher if you want) then clean again.

 

Hang the parts and go out and party! Don't touch it for 24-48 hours!

 

After a day or 2 the primer is cured and ready for a basecoat.

 

(im not getting into specific paints, this is what I do with basic urethane enamels)

 

2 light coats of your base between 10-15 minutes apart. Then allow to dry based on the manufacturers time. Generally 24-48 hours and wet sand with 800-1200 grit and clean once again. Now you may have to let this cure for several more days before you can apply another coat. You can skip the wet sanding step if you dont feel like waiting that long. Just apply the third coat 10-15 minutes after your second coat.

 

Apply a third color coat and let it tack up ( dry to the touch ) generally 30 mins to an hour.

 

Now for clear. Apply 1-2 coats of clear 10-15 minutes apart and wait for that to tack up.

 

Now move everything to the oven. Bring the temp up slowly to 150F. I leave my parts in for about 1 - 1.5 hours. And right before cool down I jack the temp up to 200 for 5 minutes then do a very slow cool down. (don't open the oven door)

 

When your done your parts should be dry to the touch but need to cure for several days before being put back into action.

 

My paint is strong and always comes out beautiful with this method.

I use a pretty cheap HVLP automotive touch up gun and a regular old shop air compressor with good filters on it. You do the prep, wet sanding, and take the time you can do it with rattle cans and still get a great paint job. 75% of it is in the prep not the paint.

 

Talking about paint types, brands, and all that is another 2 pages....

 

Your paint gun settings will also vary depending on what type and brand gun you use. (that usually just takes trial and error)

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Apex,

Excellent tip about preheating castings before finishing to help remove impurities. The first time I sent a batch of reels out for powdercoating they neglected to do this, when I recieved them back the finish looked terrible. Luckily I used a stand up guy who realized what had happened and redid them at no additional charge. Was curious about something else you said. You mentioned preheating before powdercoating, I normally just attach the contact to my parts, spray and bake. I have not had any issues but am always looking for the best methods. Does the preheat improve adhesion of the powder in addition to the charge? I guess it would, just never really thought about it. Thanks

Dave

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Dave, I was just taught to pre-heat from my last job. I've done it with and without pre-heating. On something flat or simple I notice no difference. On small complex parts with alot of hard to reach areas (like a reel body) I definitely notice better adhesion. However it just makes it easier to apply, I don't notice any difference in the cured finish.

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Apexkeeper - thanks so much for sharing your system. I read it last night, but I've needed to spend the day thinking about it so I can ask some intelligent questions.

 

By paint prep product or alcohol, do you have a product or type of alcohol that you specifically suggest?

 

If your reel has some rough spots - say the metal is dinged a little, do you try and buff it out or fill it with something? If you fill it with something, how do you make sure it doesn't come out in baking?

 

Also, if you don't mind, could you mention your preferred primer and paint? I would love the 2 page exposition, but I don't want to put you to that.

 

Thanks again.

How we wish to catch a fish so juicy sweet.
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View PostApexkeeper - thanks so much for sharing your system. I read it last night, but I've needed to spend the day thinking about it so I can ask some intelligent questions.

 

By paint prep product or alcohol, do you have a product or type of alcohol that you specifically suggest?

 

If your reel has some rough spots - say the metal is dinged a little, do you try and buff it out or fill it with something? If you fill it with something, how do you make sure it doesn't come out in baking?

 

Also, if you don't mind, could you mention your preferred primer and paint? I would love the 2 page exposition, but I don't want to put you to that.

 

Thanks again.

 

I use regular denatured alcohol, Its cheap and I use it for welding so I always have a ton laying around.

 

If you have a noticeable hole or dent you cant sand I use JB-weld. again its cheap and works. It will take the heat of the baking yet can be sanded smooth like body filler. Its also really strong unlike filler.

 

Ok for paint... I'm gonna give the short version.

 

I use self etching primer, acrylic enamel color, and acrylic enamel clear. Theres better paints but your painting a fishing reel not a Ferrari.

 

Lacquers are more forgiving however take more coats therefore more of a pain.

 

urethanes are more expensive and more complicated.

 

Epoxy paints are even more expensive and more complicated.

 

I powder coat pretty much everything now for durability unless I want to make really neat colors I can't get in powder. So I stick with cheap, basic, acrylic enamels and it has proven to be plenty strong. A few of my reels get beat up pretty good and the paint is still in great shape.

 

I use all starfire paint for color and clear, and whatever self etching primer is laying around. It works for me...

 

 

Edit - I realized I wrote urethane in my previous post. I meant to say acrylic enamel. Not urethane enamel. (in case anyone was paying attention)

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Ha ha ha. That's exactly the question I was going to ask. I didn't see your edit until this morning! biggrin.gif

 

Can you paint an anodized spool the same way as you described? I want to change my plastic spool in a 710 greenie for an anodized metal spool from a 710z? (I want to paint it a different color than green).

 

Thanks so much for your input. I really appreciate it. I'm going to go give it a try.

How we wish to catch a fish so juicy sweet.
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Yes you can paint over anodizing but you still want to sand and clean it as if it were painted.

 

I really try not to paint spools though, especially if you intend to use braid. The line can scratch, or chip the paint eventually and give your line something to get caught up on. I either anodize or polish spools.

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View PostYes you can paint over anodizing but you still want to sand and clean it as if it were painted.

 

I really try not to paint spools though, especially if you intend to use braid. The line can scratch, or chip the paint eventually and give your line something to get caught up on. I either anodize or polish spools.

 

I see. Would you have to take a 710z spool to someone to have it re-anodized in a different color? I could live with a chrome color but I want to get away from the gold.

How we wish to catch a fish so juicy sweet.
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