New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

penn rebuild

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
i do not want credit for this i found it and wanted to share

here's the short version.....

1. first, assemble the bridge, main gear, drag washers and all metal washers up to and including the tension spring (#8A) and set this aside. if you grease the drag washers, it will not fall apart.





2. start with a bare side plate. install the eccentric, the eccentric spring and the eccentric lever (freespool lever).













3. there are four bridge screws. two are threaded at just the tip. the clutch springs ride up and down on these. two are threaded the entire length. don't mix them up.



insert the four bridge screws.



cover two screws with your left index finger, cover two with your left middle finger. the side plate should be oriented so that the free spool lever is closest to the palm of your hand.



note that you can now flip over the site plate and play with the guts of the reel without the screws falling out. you do not need to use masking tape anymore.



4. flip the side plate over and look at the empty guts. install the clutch springs.



install the pinion gear and yoke as a unit.



install the eccentric jack.



install the bridge/main gear/drag assembly. orient the bridge plate to it's final position just to get your bearings. now rotate the bridge plate 90 degrees counter-clockwise.



install the dog.



rotate the bridge plate clockwise until it covers three of the bridge screws. now continue to rotate the bridge plate until it covers just half of the last and final bridge screw. push the bridge down firmly against the plastic side plate.



see the small gap??????? this is where the dog spring goes. take a deep breath. hold it. now insert the dog spring in through the gap and gently push it down into position with your index finger. be careful not to let it fly off into neverland. ok, it's in. breathe.



6. rotate the bridge plate clockwise until it lines up with the bride screws. hear the click?



cinch down each screw. check to see that the freespool lever works. check the anti-reverse mechanism. when the reel is finally assembled



you need to make sure you can get 20#'s of drag. if not,one of the keyed metal washers is probably not seated properly. you have to do this all over again.


[
post #2 of 12
Thread Starter 
here's the penn 114h with the copper dog spring.

here's the dog. now, this is important. note how the point of the dog is not symmetrical. the longer or "sharper" end goes against the ratchet gear for the gear sleeve. see the difference? get it backwards and the handle will go flying back in your hand.



and here's your dog spring. doesn't look like much, does it. i'll tell you, though. i've lost dozens of those other tiny dog springs. never lost one of these!



and here's what it looks like just before you close it up. everything else, before and after, is the same.










Back to top
post #3 of 12
Alantani I hope will be posting more of his reel tutorials like this one.

He does an awesome job repairing and upgrading reels.
post #4 of 12
I rebuilt a 9/0 using this presentation 6 months ago. The best photo presentation on attacking penn conventionals I'd seen.
post #5 of 12
according to penn the drag washers shouldnt be greased
post #6 of 12
I just did a 505HS. Easy as pie. Guy sent it to me all in pieces becuase he couldn't get it back together.
post #7 of 12
I wish I would have seen this thread before Sunday night.

Getting that dog spring to sit right is enough to make you crazy!
post #8 of 12
VERY VERY NICE, EXCELLENT DESCRIPTION AND PHOTOS
My Hats Off To You Joe.
post #9 of 12
Thank you,will be in my archives
post #10 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by billfishhead View Post
according to penn the drag washers shouldnt be greased
Try it, you'll like it
You lower the max drag capable by a little bit, but the drags are so much smoother when you crank it up, and static friction goes down to nothing (well, basically).
The other big reason for me to grease my drags, is it keeps salt out of the washers. Any salt crust will cause imperfections in the drag washer surfaces and make the drag "sticky" or inconsistent.
If you need a reel with a TON of drag (more than this can put out with the drag hammered down), you are better off with something that has a larger stack, like Penn Torque, or a lever drag.
post #11 of 12
here at the shop i do work for charter boats. the drag has got to lock down when they want it to. otherwise i get the reel back or lose business to someone else. i asked mike at penn,,,,,,,,,,,,,,no grease

reels arent greased from the factory so the boxes dont leak and make a mess. thats why you get the tubes in every reel

if you dont believe me call penn
post #12 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by billfishhead View Post
here at the shop i do work for charter boats. the drag has got to lock down when they want it to. otherwise i get the reel back or lose business to someone else. i asked mike at penn, no grease. reels arent greased from the factory so the boxes dont leak and make a mess. thats why you get the tubes in every reel. if you dont believe me call penn


i have several charter boat companies that i've helped out with for both service of existing reels and selection of reels that will be used in the future. one fella in particular told me that he would be money ahead if his reels would last more then 3 months in between service. when i spoke to him last summer, his reels were on their third year.

with that as a backdrop, let me go through a couple of points. penn does use a combination of carbon fiber and teflon grease. the product is called a dura drag. this new drag washer offers an absolute zero failure rate. that's right. it never fails. never. not ever. not in a million years. this drag washer combination of carbon fiber and grease is only used in their most expensive reels. i believe that they have made a business decision to not extend this most fabulous technology to their less expensive reel. i have my suspicions as to why, but only penn can answer this question for certain. perhaps you could ask them for us. bottom line, if you own a cheaper penn reel, you will never get a factory greased drag.

as to whether a greased (read smooth) versus a lockable (ready sticky) drag system works better for you, i would think that it would depend on your fishery. there is no situation here on the west coast that i can think of where a sticky drag would be preferred over a smooth drag system set to 33% of line weight drag setting at the top of the spool. i for one would be very curious to know what type of fishing you do, the kind of reels you use, how a lockable drag system helps you in your specific situation, and why it is that you believe that this type of drag system should be extended to all other reels and fisheries.

so let's start at the beginning, billfishhead. please tell me about your fishery....... alan
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Reel Maintenance and Repair