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Installing central AC without existing ducts.

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Any idea of how much it would cost for a 4 bedroom colonial, just ballpark?

I'm ok with what we have, but my wife wants to look into it.

Thanks for any info folks.
post #2 of 6
Really difficult to nail down a number without understanding a whole lot more about the scope of work. For what it's worth, my system (two years ago) was around $17,000, but that was new construction. If you've got an attic, you can put one air handeler up there for the 2nd story, and then the other in the basement for the first floor. Otherwise both go in the attic and you're talking about opening a lot of walls to run tin.

It can be done, but it's a job and half.
post #3 of 6
"Ductless split-system air-conditioners are relatively new to North America, although the Japanese manufactured and used them in their country for many years. They have numerous residential and commercial applications. The most common residential applications are in multifamily housing or as retrofitted add-ons to houses with hydronic or other non-ducted distribution systems (radiant panels, wood stoves, etc.). Installation in new additions, where extending or installing ductwork is not feasible, is also a popular application. Commercial uses are also numerous. Some applications include schools, perimeter cooling for office buildings, additional cooling for restaurant kitchens, and cooling for small offices within larger spaces, such as arenas, warehouses, and auditoriums.
Ductless split-system air-conditioners combine the zoning flexibility of a conventional room unit (a single air-conditioner installed through a wall or a window frame) with the whole-house cooling potential of central systems. Like central systems, they have two main components: a compressor/condenser, as well as an air handling unit, which contains an evaporator and a fan. Some units operate as heat pumps and provide both summer cooling and winter heating. The noisy compressor and condenser are housed as one unit and located outdoors. The quiet fan/evaporator unit is indoors, located in the area to be cooled. A conduit, which houses the power cable, refrigerant tubing, suction tubing, and condensate drain, links the outdoor and indoor units.
The term, "split-system," also describes some central air-conditioners and heat pumps. If you ask about ductless, split-system air-conditioners, make sure the dealer understands which system you are talking about. Another common term for ductless split-systems is "mini-splits."
Advantages

The advantages of ductless split-systems over room and central air-conditioners are: easy installation, quiet operation, versatility in zoning and design, and security. The split systems also eliminate the loss of cool air as it passes through the ductwork. A key advantage of split systems is their ease of installation. Hook-up requires only a three-inch hole (7.62 centimeters) in the wall for the conduit. Unlike with central air conditioning, you do not need ductwork. Since the compressor in most ductless split-systems is as much as 50 feet (15.24 meters) away from the indoor evaporator, it is usually possible to cool rooms on the front side of the house, while still hiding the compressor in a less conspicuous area. The compressor units also fit well on flat commercial building rooftops.
Ductless split-system air-conditioners operate relatively quietly, since the compressor is outside and the evaporator unit's fan generally runs at a low speed. Variable speed high efficiency fans are also available.
By providing zone cooling, ductless split-system air-conditioners save energy, since only the rooms that are occupied need to be cooled. A thermostat independently controls each zone. Therefore, operating costs are often lower than those of central systems that cool every room, whether it is in use or not. If you cannot afford to purchase an air conditioner for the whole house, you can also buy the system one zone at a time. A single outdoor unit controls from one to four zones, depending on the size of the unit. Commercial buildings tend to use larger units. Typically, the Btu per hour rating (Btu/h) of these units ranges from 8,700 to 60,000, and the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) ratings are between 10.0 and 11.5. Since January 1, 1992, the National Appliance Energy Conservation Act of 1987 (NAECA) has required a minimum SEER of 10.0 for newly manufactured or imported single phase (the type of power normally supplied to residences), split-system air conditioning units.
When compared to other add-on systems, split-systems also provide better interior design options. The air handlers can be suspended from a ceiling, mounted flush into a drop ceiling, or hung on a wall. Floor-standing models are also widely available. Most indoor units are low-profile models, no more than seven inches (17.78 centimeters) deep, and come with decorative jackets. Most newer models come with a remote control unit as standard equipment. This allows the positioning of air-handling units high on a wall or suspended from a ceiling, without compromising convenience.
Unsecured room air-conditioners provide an easy entrance for intruders. Split- systems are more secure than window units since there is only a small hole in the wall.
Disadvantages

The primary disadvantage of split-system units is their cost. Split-system air- conditioners cost about $1,500-$2,000 per ton (12,000 Btu/h) of cooling capacity. This is about 30% more than central systems, and may cost twice as much as window units of similar capacity. The installer must judge the best location for the air handling unit. It also needs to be the correct size for the area it cools. The air handler blows air up to 30 or 40 feet. If the system is improperly positioned and/or sized, the air can bounce off a wall or another obstruction. This results in short-cycling, which wastes energy and does not provide the desired temperature control. An oversized unit also costs more than a correctly sized unit.
Some people may also not like the appearance of the air handling unit. While less obtrusive than a window unit, they seldom have the built-in look of a central system. There must also be drainage for condensate outside the building. If the drainage is not well placed, the condensate can stain concrete or building materials.
Qualified service centers may not be easy to find until the systems become more widespread."

post #4 of 6
I had it done in my house 4 bedroom colonial about 15 years ago. Same deal we had oil fired hot water heat. The cost then was about 9,000. Airhandler was installed in the attic and we added an attic fan hooked to a thermosat to keep air circulating. The job was done in 1 day They ran the duct work for the first floor thru all the bedroom closets upstairs so I lost a little closet space in each closet 10 inches or so but no ripping up of sheetrock or anything like that. The compressor lines were run beside the chimminey stack and the compressor went out in back. It was worth every penny
post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the info folks, gives me plenty to work with.

I appreciate it.
post #6 of 6
Mitsubishi makes a unit you should look at. My mother had one installed at her old house,

Takes up a fair amount of wall space, but the condensor is outside.
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