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spooling braided line.

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
this winter i decided to switch over to braided. I went with 15 lb dia. power line. At first i had lined my entire spool with it but after a couple of trips i was stlll getting bird nests. after talking around i decided to strip the spool and reline it 1/2 mono backing and then 1/2 braided. i hoped this would fix my problem but the next time out it still balled up on me. Any advice on my situation? my set up is a penn 550 on a 9' tica mod-fast action.
post #2 of 24
I have done the same thing and had the same results. I notice after fishing the first time most of the problem went away? Braid also needs to be wound on a little tighter than mono when it's new. What I noticed was the line was wet!!! As the line dries it sticks to itself but just enough to help. Spool up your reel, soak the spool with water and let it dry. I use Fireline and which is a bit larger than other braids for it's size but seems to be more forgiving than others and easier to pick out when it does bird nest. All in all, I prefer braid over mono for any bait casting reel. Just remember, after landing a big fish to practice casting out a couple of times lightly with care. This will remove the buried tight line on your spool before you really let R go. Bad surprise if you don't.
post #3 of 24
I've spooled hundreds of reels with braid while working at the Sportsman's Warehouse. I first apply about 10 yards of mono to cover the spool then use a uni to uni knot to join the lines. I then use a cloth to pressure the line against the bulk spool. I apply as much pressure as I can. I cannot apply the desired amount of pressure at home, so I do my own reels at work.
post #4 of 24
Run the line through a phone book . shoudl be plenty of pressure to keep the line tight. If you need more pressure to keep it tight, stack another book or two on top.
post #5 of 24
It doesn't matter how tightly and evenly you spool it on. After about 10 casts, the spool is going to have more peaks and valleys than an electrocardiogram. Penn SS reels are among the most "braid unfriendly" on the market due to the horrible way they spool line and that tiny line roller.

I would give 14# or 20# Fireline a try, and see if that doesn't do the trick
post #6 of 24
close the bail by hand . hold line so it tight went you start to reel will help or more up in lineto.
post #7 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ditch Jigger
It doesn't matter how tightly and evenly you spool it on. After about 10 casts, the spool is going to have more peaks and valleys than an electrocardiogram. Penn SS reels are among the most "braid unfriendly" on the market due to the horrible way they spool line and that tiny line roller.

I would give 14# or 20# Fireline a try, and see if that doesn't do the trick

hows the fireline at knots and cuts? heard that the penns were bad with braided but didnt want to give up all hope.
post #8 of 24
Fireline works well with a Palomar knot--which is the only one I ever use with any braid. It will cut your hand if you grab it to land a fish, like any other braid or fused line, but it isn't too bad on your casting finger in 20# test.

I'd try 20 on a 550. It's about the same thickness as the 15# equivalent stuff you're using now. I tried 14# and 300 yards didn't fill the spool.
post #9 of 24
I agree that fireline (dyneema) is better for older Penn spinning reels, although I had no issues with wind knots with 50# power pro (whereas with 30# in honkin' winds I did). I would recommend 20# fireline; you can go down to 14# as you get used to it if you want.

Also, try to feather the line with your index finger sticking out towards the end of the cast. As soon as the lure hits, place your finger on the spool lip to catch the braid.When you close the bail and start retrieving, you can pinch the line between your index finger & thumb to add tension when reeling in at first.

I use a Berkeley line spooling station ($20) and a leather glove when spooling my braid. I use a modified albright connection (Alberto knot) with the same test or higher of mono as backing (just enough to cover the spool). Then with my gloved pinky & thumb, I apply a little pressure on the sides of the braid spool, while pinching the braid w/ index & thumb. This makes for a tight spooling.

Good luck!
post #10 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by shady grady
Run the line through a phone book . shoudl be plenty of pressure to keep the line tight. If you need more pressure to keep it tight, stack another book or two on top.


Great Tip ! I been doing the same for 30+ years. Need more tension, just set a brick,anchor or even a pair of shoes .....I swear by the phone book trick.
post #11 of 24
add another vote for fireline, i did pick up some stren super braid on clearance at wally world for like 2 bucks a spool.

power pro ? never again
post #12 of 24
Just a small point of information, the new penn ssg and ssm reels spool line nicely, unlike the older ss reels. I learned this first hand comparing a 450ssg and a 7500ss.
Steve
post #13 of 24
Getting ready to spool up a new Daiwa Luna w/braid and wondered if mono backing is recommended on the arbor. I've been using 50# braid on a mag 525 for a few years now and love it. It lasts far longer than mono and the low memory is great. Mono starts getting kinked after a few casting sessions where braid remains limp. Braid is less abrasion resistant than mono but the casting performance is much better.
post #14 of 24
If there is no knob on the spool to tie your braid to (there IS a knob on some Shimanos), then you must spool some mono first. Only about 10 yards is needed. Thgis stops the braid from spinning upon itself.
post #15 of 24
The phone book tip is the best thing I come across in here since reading most of the magnet threads. I am going to spools reels next week and can't wait to try it.

Glad I stopped in today......Frank
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