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Tuning tips fo the Abu 7000 series

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
As requested:-

The Abu 7000 series offers reasonable performance with the extra capacity to handle heavier line when needed. Early models and some low spec later models have bronze bushings. Bearings are better from many standpoints but the bushes do run okay, they just need a little more work.

The Abu 7000C3 and 7500C3 both come with a with level-wind as standard. There is also the 7500C3 Elite which has a CT type cage. The 7000 has 4.1:1 gearing and the faster 7500 up's the anti with 5.3:1. In the spool control stakes all three reels feature mechanical end tension but the primary means of keeping the spool under control is a four pin centrifugal brake system.

The spool in all three reels is a spool/spindle combined unit with the bushes/bearings held under the two end caps. To gain access loosen the three knurled screw caps under the handle and remove the gear box/handle end complete to expose the spool. You will see there are four brake block pins and it's best to remove the brakes now to avoid loosing them before they slide off the pins. Finally, extract the spool from the frame and put to one side.

On the endplate attached to the frame remove the silver end cap to expose the bearing. Remove the retaining circlip and remove the bearing. Repeat the process on the opposite end plate, it will be easier, but not essential, if you remove the handle and star drag. Place the bearings in a small, preferably glass container and then cover with lighter petrol. Leave for ten minutes or so to dissolve any oil/grease. Remove from the container and leave on a piece of kitchen roll and wait for a few minute for the petrol to evaporate.

If the petrol in the container is murky or discoloured discard and replace with new then soak the bearings again in the fresh petrol. The murky appearance of the petrol indicates it is contaminated by the oil from the bearings. This will leave a sticky residue on the balls and races inside the bearings and impair performance. Once the bearings are good and clean with all the petrol evaporated its time to apply the oil.

Oil choice for the 7000 series reels is important as users of this size reel usually do so for it's increased capacity, especially with heavier lines. My starting tune for this reel is several large drops of Red label Rocket Fuel or a light gear oil such as EP80. Apply the oil with the bearings sitting on several layers of kitchen towel and it will sink into the bearings quite quickly. Wait for a few moment and it will run all through the bearings and appear on the towel. Add another couple of drops to ensure plenty of oil is in the bearings and replace in the respective positions and re-fit any circlips, washers etc.

On older models with bushes in place of bearings a thicker oil may be necessary to keep things under control. The old Oilite bushes you soaked in petrol like a bearings to clean them, then soaked them in oil. However, not all bushes are as absorbent so a liberal dose of something thick and sticky works best. Try EP90 gear oil and if things are still too fast step up to EP120. I always drop the bushes in a soup spoon cover with your chosen oil and heat gently, remove heat as soon as the oil start to smoke, leave to cool and replace bushes in the reel.

Fit the end caps but do not over tighten them, a couple of turns to fully engage the thread is fine at this stage. Now replace the spool in the cage making sure if you have a level-wind model the cogs engage properly. Fit your brake blocks on the pins, I would start with two of the standard large fibre blocks, or four if you have not used the reel before or are unsure how it will run. It's easier and cheaper on line to start with more braking than you need then reduce rather than the other way around.

Refit the second endplate making sure the brake blocks do not fall off and tighten the knurled screw heads. Finger tight is fine then a nip up with a screwdriver once you have established things are running smoothly. With everything in place you need to set the end caps to centralise the spool in the cage and sort out the lateral movement of the spool in the cage. Once the spool is central adjust the end float so there is just discernable movement and adjust the bezel on the left hand side so the cut out is level with the zero on the scale.

When it comes to loading the spool with line do not over fill the spool, with 15/18lb keep the level 4mm below the inner flange or if using heavier, say 20/25lb then 3mm down from the flange. Add your leader and off you go taking things easy at first, then after a few casts the line will bed in and you can start putting in a little more power. This is a big reel so will not compete with the smaller 6500 models but it will cast quite respectable distances when tuned to suit your own style of casting if you like a big reel for clean beach fishing.

Over rough ground with thicker line the lower retrieve provides plenty of low down grunt for getting fish around snags but lacks the ability of the later high speed reels to take up slack line quickly. However, Abu offer both medium and high speed retrieve so the choice is yours. The higher speed models are best with 0.40mm diameter line and above. Be aware on a 7500CT 0.35mm lime will get between the spool and cage, not a pretty sight!

Good luck – Neil Mackellow
post #2 of 19
Neil,
Thanks! Once again great job.
Steve
post #3 of 19
Quote:
Originally posted by Steve H.C.:
Neil,
Thanks! Once again great job.
Steve
Exactly. We appreciate the effort.
post #4 of 19
Thanks Neil!

quick question:

where can i find light gear oil such as EP80 ???

[ 02-25-2004, 08:20 PM: Message edited by: Tomasas ]
post #5 of 19
Thread Starter 
In the UK we have several oil viscosities for use in gearboxes and transaxials. EP80, 90, 120 and 140 are the common ones. It relates to the SAE rating. The 80 is similar to red Rocket Fuel but without the rapid break down/reconstituting properties. Basically a light gear oil from Sears or similar would work. BB
post #6 of 19
The numbers do correlate for viscosity, a 90 weight oil in the States is a 90 weight oil in the UK. The EP refers to a engineered property of a specific oil; in this case, being engineered for extreme pressure. Anti-foaming is often the most common property thought of in EP lubricants.

In the US, EP properties are usually not plainly labeled, one must read the fine print for the certifications.

API GL-1 has no EP properties.

API GL-4 typically has half the EP properties of . . .

API GL-5, which has full EP protection.

Hope this helps.

OverTheBar
post #7 of 19
i,ve got a maroon 7000c3 high speed. .been using it about 8 years and really like it. i mostly throw heavy bait with it. is it worth getting into faster bearings and such. will it still be controllable wingin heavy bait. ? also i dont want to remove the levelwind but it does seem to be slowing things down. are there upgrades to a levelwind so they operate smoother ? i'm confused about which mods are worth doing. can u mag areel and keep the clicker.i hope one of u reel nuts can help me out thx
post #8 of 19
Wow, way to revive a thread! If you've been tossing this reel for better than 8 years there is no reason to consider magging it. Magnets are primarily to fine tune for conditions but an educated thumb (like yours) should be able to account for the various wind and loads.

There are a few vendors that now have levelwind bearing upgrades. Before that however consider the cheap ceramic pawl and, maybe, some bearings.

That said, it's amazing how much performance is to be gained by thoroughly cleaning an older reel. If you don't feel up to taking the reel completely apart then hand it over to a competent B&T. They'll strip it down and put it through an agitator. That my friend would likely be your best "Bang for the Buck" upgrade.

Dutch

Quote:
Originally Posted by raldt3 View Post
i,ve got a maroon 7000c3 high speed. .been using it about 8 years and really like it. i mostly throw heavy bait with it. is it worth getting into faster bearings and such. will it still be controllable wingin heavy bait. ? also i dont want to remove the levelwind but it does seem to be slowing things down. are there upgrades to a levelwind so they operate smoother ? i'm confused about which mods are worth doing. can u mag areel and keep the clicker.i hope one of u reel nuts can help me out thx
post #9 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by raldt3 View Post
i,ve got a maroon 7000c3 high speed. .been using it about 8 years and really like it. i mostly throw heavy bait with it. is it worth getting into faster bearings and such. will it still be controllable wingin heavy bait. ? also i dont want to remove the levelwind but it does seem to be slowing things down. are there upgrades to a levelwind so they operate smoother ? i'm confused about which mods are worth doing. can u mag areel and keep the clicker.i hope one of u reel nuts can help me out thx


I also have a maroon Abu 7000C3 and it's one of the best/farthest casting reels I have even with the levelwind. I use 20 lb. Big Game or Cajun Red mono on it.

You should probably just clean out the bearings with a good solvent. Then try different types of lube to see which one works best for you.
post #10 of 19
Great info in here. Thanks for the revivearin.
post #11 of 19
great post!

i just bought this maroon 7000 from the BST forums.
From Salt Water">
it has had the levelwind removed & replaced by a crossbar, & had the drag upgraded to carbontex. i was told the work was done by jerry foran & that he also removed some of the spool brakes. i didn't notice much braking when adjusting the spindle caps so i peaked inside & this is what i saw:
From Salt Water">http://
Are there ANY brakes? If not, should I leave as is, get some brakes, or mag it? (personally i think it'd be cool to mag it if it won't be an impediment to anything but that uncontrollable spool).

my second & third questions:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Beard View Post

If the petrol in the container is murky or discoloured discard and replace with new then soak the bearings again in the fresh petrol. The murky appearance of the petrol indicates it is contaminated by the oil from the bearings. This will leave a sticky residue on the balls and races inside the bearings and impair performance. Once the bearings are good and clean with all the petrol evaporated its time to apply the oil.

Oil choice for the 7000 series reels is important as users of this size reel usually do so for it's increased capacity, especially with heavier lines. My starting tune for this reel is several large drops of Red label Rocket Fuel or a light gear oil such as EP80.

What do you mean by petrol? the stuff zippos run on, butane, gasoline, any solvent (wd-40)?

& here is the question i'm really intrigued by conceptually- what about higher capacity reels makes oil choice important?

thanks for the great info. hope i can further revive this thread if only briefly.
post #12 of 19
Petrol is gasoline. I use this for cleaning the bearings and it works great.
Again, my preference is to soak the bearings in thicker oil for the larger capacity reels. The larger the spool the heavier it is and thus the greater the breaking required to keep it under control. It takes a greater effort to start spinning but once it does it also takes a lot of breaking to slow them down - inertia.
post #13 of 19
thanks jack

anybody have an answer to my brake query? have i misunderstood and not looked deep enough into the workings of the spool to find them?
post #14 of 19
Based upon my review of that picture, I do not see any brakes on either of the four pins. Likely lead to overruns unless you have a really well educated thumb.
post #15 of 19
Also, remember brakes do not need to be installed in pairs. Try one, then two, etc until you get the desired result. IMHO, one brake is adequate unless your fishing against a noreaster .

Dutch
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