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Making Cod Jigs....How To?

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

I though I would pick your brains here. We use a 12 ounce jig the GOM made by a guy named Danny Angerman. His jigs work well,but, they are hard to come by and you tend to loose a 2-3 every time you fish Northern Jeffries. At 12 bucks a pop + 2.50 for a ball bearing swivel + $1.00 for a VMC trebel hook it gets kinda pricey, plus it's a crap shoot whether you are going to find replacements.

How would you go about making a mold for these so you can pour your own? Can you use RTV silicone to make a mold for these? Were talking 12 ounces of lead here. of the bad thind is that these jigs will bend when you opound the bottom. Cam you alloy say 10-20% Tin into the lead to make em less prone to bending?

Any thoughts?
post #2 of 7
You got a picture of this jig?
post #3 of 7
For 12 oz of lead, I don't think silicone or bondo would be a good idea. I don't think they would be able to withstand the heat or the weight unless they are reinforced some way. Best bet might be some block aluminum and a few dremel bits.

post #4 of 7
How about a good old plaster mold? Vaseline onto original lure in a light coat. Mix small tray of plaster of paris and wait until it starts to thicken. Let original jig sit so that half is still above the plaster. Add a short piece of vaselined dowel to line up to two halves and let dry. Vaseline this piece of plaster and pour second half of mold and let dry. CAREFULLY separate the two halves and carve a pouring hole. Hold over a sooty candle or kerosene lantern to blacken it. Make SURE the plaster is VERY dry before using as molten lead an plaster don't mix. There may be something a lot better than this in the search function. Good luck!! Pawlie
post #5 of 7
pawlie. I think the plaster would be even more fragile and intollerant of 12 oz of hot lead than bondo or silicone. Plaster is cheap though and if you only want a mold to last a few pours, it might be ok.

post #6 of 7
I agree with Charlie, I don't think you want to pour that much lead into bondo, plaster, or other resin stuff. If you do decide to go this route, I highly recommend setting the mold in some type of frame that will help hold the lead if the plaster gives way before the lead sets up. Definitely make sure the plaster has had plenty of time to dry before pouring molten lead into it. I've done molds with silicone based materials before. 1-2 oz molds. After about 10 pours, the mold is too hot to handle and will start to warp. If you can post a photo may be we can provide some other suggestions. My thoughts right now are that you'll have to go with aluminum and dremil to carve it out.

post #7 of 7
plaster is cheap enough to make a half gallon milk carton size mold for just a few dollars. If it is made thick and wide enough it should hold especially with an external support around it. Obviously, extreme caution will be needed the first few pours until you are confident that the mold will hold. Some old timers add horsehair, human hair, (?bucktail, just kidding!) to the plaster mix for added strength. Your dentist may have some extra high quality plaster sitting around and give you some if you are nice to him. (They are using other compounds now to make denture molds) Extra cooling time after pouring will be needed too as the amount of lead being poured is large. I would give it a try anyway.

P.S. If you are using wheel weights, these are already alloyed and should be plenty hard enough. With a mold this size you should not have the problems you can run into with smaller molds.
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