StripersOnline › SurfTalk › Stripers Online Forums › Boating Forum › How to rewire boat??
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

How to rewire boat??

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
I have a 19' CC Trophy that needes rewiring, running lights, raido, etc but don't know where to start. Is it easy enough to "do it yourself" or should I hire somone for the job??
post #2 of 18
Its a big but simple job. The hardest part is in the planning. Figure out what size wire everything needs, how many bus bars you'll need, how many fuses. Then you can proceedd to figure out where to mount everything and then just run the wires.
post #3 of 18
As MakoMike said, planning is very important. The acutal act of doing is academic. Here are some pointers that I used to rewire my 2003 Parker after the first season. The reason I rewired was due to the fact that the factory did not use tinned wire throughout the boat, and the lack of adequately sized buss panels for the electronics that I installed. So I figured that I just do it right before I ran into problems when on the water.

Here are a few pointers:

1) Always use tinned multi-strand marine grade wire (the tin prevents the copper from oxidizing). Anchor products are arguably the best, and not cheap if you buy from West Marine or Boaters World.
2) Use only marine grade crimp connectors on everything.
3) Use a good "double" ratcheted crimper for all connections (Anchor makes this too) - NEVER SOLDER connections because the vibrations in a boat may cause them to break where the wire flexes by the "stiff" solder.
4) For general lighting and accessories use 14 gauge wire for total loads less than 15 amps and a total run of ~50 ft. If the load is more or you have a long run, increase the qauge accordingly. Check out Blue Seas website for exact load/run values.
5) Use marine grade heat shrink that has adhesive on the inside to make water tight connections. Do this even on terminal ends where the end of the wire is exposed. To seal the ends, just make sure its cover the ends and after you heat it, press is closed with your fingers.
6) Get a good heat gun - don't use a hair dryer, you'll waist a lot of time.
7) Use electro magnetic grease on all fuse and bulb contacts.
8) While your at it, replace all running and navigation lights with LEDs. They are brighter and won't drain the battery.

That about covers the basics.
post #4 of 18
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tips !
post #5 of 18
Once you figure out what you want, how many of each size butt connector, ring terminals, bus bars, etc.. you can do much better buying online than you can at West Marine / Boat US. Especially when it comes to adhesive lined heat-shrink connectors.. they really gouge you at those boat stores. PM me for a couple of online retailers, not sure what the URL posting policy of this board is.

If you are going to go through the trouble to re-wire everything, definitely invest in a set of ratcheting crimpers as mentioned above. Don't use the cheap-o ones that you can get at Radio Shack.

-- Tom
post #6 of 18

i am about to begin rewiring a 46 foot sail boat and would like to know the best way to start on this sucker.  I do have a really good working knowledge of electricity but never on a boat  residential and commercial only.

This boat was sunk, brought back to life and has been sailed and now is resting on pavement, I am rewiring it starting tomorrow 1/15/12, with LED in and out. I am very interested in the precautionary / safety measures for boats.  I am replacing all wire, installing LED.  Replacing the 12volt  switch panel installing a new 110v system as well. thanks

 

post #7 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne Tj View Post

1) Always use tinned multi-strand marine grade wire (the tin prevents the copper from oxidizing). Anchor products are arguably the best, and not cheap if you buy from West Marine or Boaters World.

genuinedealz

dotcom

You don't have to use Anchor brand, there's plenty of other good tinned wire out there. Infact what they sell is what you'll find on most OEM boats.
Quote:
2) Use only marine grade crimp connectors on everything.

There is no such thing as "marine grade" crimps. They're all the same.
Quote:
3) Use a good "double" ratcheted crimper for all connections (Anchor makes this too) - NEVER SOLDER connections because the vibrations in a boat may cause them to break where the wire flexes by the "stiff" solder.

This is a point of argument on alot of boating sites. Properly soldered/siliconed/shrink tubed connections will not break. Would you like to see some 10+ years old?
Quote:
5) Use marine grade heat shrink that has adhesive on the inside to make water tight connections. Do this even on terminal ends where the end of the wire is exposed. To seal the ends, just make sure its cover the ends and after you heat it, press is closed with your fingers.

The adhesive goes to crap. Use normal heat shrink and shoot it with silicone. I've replaced the magic MARINE GRADE heat shrink with siliconed heat shrink after 2mo's before.
Quote:
7) Use electro magnetic grease on all fuse and bulb contacts.

di-electric grease. wink.gif
post #8 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by charles dickens View Post

i am about to begin rewiring a 46 foot sail boat and would like to know the best way to start on this sucker.  I do have a really good working knowledge of electricity but never on a boat  residential and commercial only.
This boat was sunk, brought back to life and has been sailed and now is resting on pavement, I am rewiring it starting tomorrow 1/15/12, with LED in and out. I am very interested in the precautionary / safety measures for boats.  I am replacing all wire, installing LED.  Replacing the 12volt  switch panel installing a new 110v system as well. thanks

You can custom order new panels (platronics) through Defender and most likely will be an exact fit.
What kind of boat is it?

Lopo are nice, and low profile, and VERY VERY VERY expensive. Get the aftermarket bulbs and re-use your nav light fixtures (I assume they're all perko or hella?)
post #9 of 18
Color Item Use
Yellow or Blk Ground Return, Negative Mains
Lt. Blue Oil Pressure Oil Pressure Sender to Gauge
Dk. Blue Cabin & Instrument Fuse or Switch to Lights
Brown Generator Armature Generator Armature to Regulator
Alternator Charge Light Generator Terminal or Alternator Auxiliary Terminal to Regulator
Pumps Fuse or Switch to Pumps
Green Bonding System Bonding Wires (if insulated)
Grey Navigation Lights Fuse or Switch to Lights
Tachometer Tachometer Sender to Gauge
Orange Accessory Feed Ammeter to Alternator or Generator Output and Accessory Fuses or Switches
Common Feed Distribution Panel to Accessory Switch
Pink Fuel Gauge Fuel Gauge Sender to Gauge
Purple Ignition Ignition Switch to Coil & Electrical Instrument
Instrument Feed Distribution Panel Electrical Instruments
Red Main Power Feeds Positive Mains (particularly unfused)
Yellow Generator Field Generator to Regulator Field Terminal
Brn w/Yellow Bilge Blowers Fuse or Switch to Blower
Yellow w/Red Starting Circuit Starting Switch to Solenoid
post #10 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by afterhours View Post

Color Item Use
Yellow or Blk Ground Return, Negative Mains
Lt. Blue Oil Pressure Oil Pressure Sender to Gauge
Dk. Blue Cabin & Instrument Fuse or Switch to Lights
Brown Generator Armature Generator Armature to Regulator
Alternator Charge Light Generator Terminal or Alternator Auxiliary Terminal to Regulator
Pumps Fuse or Switch to Pumps
Green Bonding System Bonding Wires (if insulated)
Grey Navigation Lights Fuse or Switch to Lights
Tachometer Tachometer Sender to Gauge
Orange Accessory Feed Ammeter to Alternator or Generator Output and Accessory Fuses or Switches
Common Feed Distribution Panel to Accessory Switch
Pink Fuel Gauge Fuel Gauge Sender to Gauge
Purple Ignition Ignition Switch to Coil & Electrical Instrument
Instrument Feed Distribution Panel Electrical Instruments
Red Main Power Feeds Positive Mains (particularly unfused)
Yellow Generator Field Generator to Regulator Field Terminal
Brn w/Yellow Bilge Blowers Fuse or Switch to Blower
Yellow w/Red Starting Circuit Starting Switch to Solenoid

please use this color coding system. the wiring might be hard to find but if you ever have to change or add anything it makes life so much easier. my last boat was rewired using only red, black, grey and green wire, and they did stupid things like using red in some spots then splicing it into black. so was the wire positive or ground? took me hours to figure out using a volt meter
post #11 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by i07nyc View Post

please use this color coding system. the wiring might be hard to find but if you ever have to change or add anything it makes life so much easier. my last boat was rewired using only red, black, grey and green wire, and they did stupid things like using red in some spots then splicing it into black. so was the wire positive or ground? took me hours to figure out using a volt meter

Labels.
Labels and intelligent wiring.

Also wiring diagrams.
post #12 of 18
lots of labels..... brother P-Touch is invaluable for this.

and make a basic diagram for when you have to go back and figure it out again next time.
post #13 of 18

Wiring Diagrams of what you did is Valuable advice!!!!!!!!

post #14 of 18
Last year I bought a 21' Seacraft that had sunk. I pulled out all the wiring and started anew. Here's what worked for me. Start as clean as you can, rinse and vaccum everything below deck. Clear wire chases and remove any sharp edges if possible, remove seats, rocket launches, and anything on deck( you will be laying down most of the time), lay down a soft blanket like a movers blanket. Think it through where best and easiest runs should be. Never cut wire short to save$, it will bite you later. As was stared before draw a working diagram. Under the console I wrote next to each conection what they were for( no one will see it but you). I used liquid tape over all connections whether heat shrunk or not. A buddy helps alot with all the back and forth from stern to console. Good luck
post #15 of 18
As cascade said, don't cut short, always leave service loops, especially with panels, you will at some point want to pull it out and be able to lay it flat on the console or wherever. Service loops = good.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Boating Forum
StripersOnline › SurfTalk › Stripers Online Forums › Boating Forum › How to rewire boat??